Harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench

[bubinga]

Do you guys think the PITTSBURGH​

1/2 In. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench is good enough for (mostly) torqueing down aluminum wheels.​

1/2 in. Drive 10-150 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr Click Type Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Hotrod33809]

Never used one from HF but I think the general sentiment I have seen from other threads is it will atleast get you in the ballpark. If I was building a spaceship would I choose it? no, but for your application I'm sure it is fine

 

[Mgdoug3]

I must have gotten a dud because I used that torque wrench pictured and twisted off a bolt because it didn't click. From then on I stopped trusting any HF torque wrench. I have the 1/4" version too and it seemed to be right but I couldn't trust how long it would be right. I replaced it as well.

 

[unslow1]

This has been asked on here many many times. The answer is as HotRod stated. Most wouldn't build an engine with them but for most things they do very well.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I have one for home stuff. When I had my Snap-on guy test it and calibrate it on his truck it was spot on he done it for free because he wanted to see how accurate it was.

 

[bubinga]

Thanks guys, so probably close enough for wheels @ 100 ft. lbs.
I was looking at this one too.
Reviews are mixed as usual.

Amazon.com: GEARWRENCH 1/2inch Drive Electronic Torque Wrench, 30-340 Nm - 85077: Home Improvement

Buy GEARWRENCH 1/2inch Drive Electronic Torque Wrench, 30-340 Nm - 85077: Industrial & Scientific - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[bubinga]

This CDI looks nice too.

https://www.toolsdelivered.com/cdi-torque-2503mfrmh-dual-scale-adjustable-preset-click-torque-wrench.

 

[bubinga]

The one (CDI) goes from
50 to 250 Ft Lbs
And the other CDI goes from 20 to 150 Ft Lbs.
Is there truth to the statement I seem to recall hearing that the lower maximum torque settings wrench is more accurate?

 

[Mgdoug3]

Most torque wrenches are accurate from 20% up to 100% of scale. The 150 ft lb CDI should be just as accurate as the 250 one at 100 ft lbs, but the 150 will have a more audible click.

 

[bubinga]

Good deal, thanks..
Just the "nature of the beast" for the 150 foot pound Max torque wrench you have a louder click?

 

[Tools4Me]

I purchased and tested a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 HF torque wrench a couple years ago. Back when they were still being made in Taiwan. I think they are China made now. The 1/4" wrench was way off in terms of accuracy and the error changed depending on the set value tested. The 3/8" was within 10% when it was supposed to be within 4%. The 1/2" worked well and was always within the stated 4% accuracy. I kept the 1/2" and returned the 1/4" and 3/8" a few days later. I now use my 1/2" exclusively for lug nuts as a beater wrench to take wear off my high quality 1/2" torque wrench. It's great for that purpose. I compare it to my 2% accuracy beam 1/2" torque reference wrench every couple months and it has always stayed within spec. It isn't pretty, the torque adjustment threads are a bit rough, the torque setting lock knob is threaded too coarsely to be of much use for holding a setting, but it works. In my opinion, tightening lugs is what the HF 1/2" wrench is useful for. I wouldn't trust it for anything else. Set it back to the minimum level after each use and it should last a long time.

 

[Tools4Me]

The one (CDI) goes from
50 to 250 Ft Lbs
And the other CDI goes from 20 to 150 Ft Lbs.
Is there truth to the statement I seem to recall hearing that the lower maximum torque settings wrench is more accurate?

It depends entirely on whether your torque wrench has the error spec measured as "full scale" or "indicated value". The manual should say, but if it doesn't that usually means the accuracy spec is a "percentage of full scale" number. Cheaper torque wrenches usually use full scale and more expensive wrenches usually use indicated value.

If you have a "percentage of the indicated value" wrench, it doesn't matter what the torque wrench's max setting is, because the indicated error will always be a percentage of your specific torque setting. If the torque wrench uses a "percentage of full scale" accuracy spec, it does make a difference and the lower max wrench would be more accurate. A 4% of full value accuracy torque wrench with a 250 ft lb max would have an error of +/- 10 ft lbs for all readings from 20-100% of the wrench's scale (.04 x 250). A 4% full value accuracy torque wrench with a 150 ft lb max would have an error of +/- 6 ft lbs for all readings from 20-100% of the wrench's scale (.04 x 150).

A CDI torque wrench should be a "percentage of indicated value" type of wrench. The ones I have are, so in your case it shouldn't matter which CDI wrench you pick between those two options.

 

[bubinga]

Thanks guys yeah I think I'll probably go with a better one here.
Researching still

 

[lardy1]

I have a Tekton and have used it for a couple years working on our stable of Harley-Davidson motorcycles. I also torque my Silverado lug nuts to the maximum 150 lbs. I've had no problems at all with it and they are reasonably priced.

I wouldn't be posting this if you said you were rebuilding race engines with it.

 

[demarpaint]

Not in the same price range, but well worth the money, and it doesn't have to be zeroed out after each use. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head.

 

[speed88]

Not in the same price range, but well worth the money, and it doesn't have to be zeroed out after each use. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head.

+1 I absolutely love mine. I even picked up the PREC2FR100F 20-100 ft./lbs split beam as well.

 

[Sneezer]

I have lived with my old Craftsman microtork wrenches. Mine only went up to 150 ft lbs though. Handled everything I threw at them with out any issue. I haven’t used that particular HF wrench, but it has always been my understanding that they are decent for basic needs, such as torquing lugnuts.

I had some suspension work to do earlier this year on my truck and needed to get one that went up to 250. It was short notice, so my choices were limited. At the time there was a 20% Icon only coupon, so I picked up their 1/2” torque wrench. I was really happy with it, and the 90 tooth head was really helpful. I was happy with the purchase.

 

[dnschmidt]

Don't know how we got from a $10 torque wrench that's sort of iffy but will clearly tighten wheel lug nuts more accurately than the gorilla at a tire shop with a massive impact to a $150 PI split beam which is pretty much standard at Discount Tire. Is the PI the way to go - yes but do you really need it - no. Of course the clown saying this has 30 torque wrenches so what do I know about restraint. NOT MUCH is obviously the answer. BUT HERE'S THE REAL DEAL ON WHAT TO DO.

I keep a HF in my trunk. It's only used for one car so I don't care if it's accurate over it's entire range all it has to do is torque my Camry's lug nuts to 75 ft-lbs. SO I USE MY DIGITAL TORQUE ADAPTER and set the torque wrench to wherever it wants to go (don't give a **** what it reads on the handle - I don't even look) to achieve a reading of 75 ft-lb on the torque adapter. I've checked it once a year for five years and it's never moved from 75 ft-lb when put on the digital torque adapter. So this idea of returning to the lowest reading is clearly been de-bunked. If you have multiple cars buy multiple HF $10 torque wrenches and set each to the value of torque needed for each car or truck using a digital torque adapter and just keep them in their respective trunks. The PI is a great tool but what the hell good does it do you if you've had a flat and got to change your tire on the road and it's in your toolbox at home? You're not going to keep a $150 torque wrench in your car's trunk now are you? (Well I keep a $200 Milwaukee M18 impact in my trunk as I'm too damn old and lazy to use a lug wrench - that's for peasants - but I'm weird that way.) Horses for courses and for what you want to do THIS IS THE WAY TO GO.

 

[Fedwrench]

Don't know how we got from a $10 torque wrench that's sort of iffy but will clearly tighten wheel lug nuts more accurately than the gorilla at a tire shop with a massive impact to a $150 PI split beam which is pretty much standard at Discount Tire. Is the PI the way to go - yes but do you really need it - no. Of course the clown saying this has 30 torque wrenches so what do I know about restraint. NOT MUCH is obviously the answer. BUT HERE'S THE REAL DEAL ON WHAT TO DO.

I keep a HF in my trunk. It's only used for one car so I don't care if it's accurate over it's entire range all it has to do is torque my Camry's lug nuts to 75 ft-lbs. SO I USE MY DIGITAL TORQUE ADAPTER and set the torque wrench to wherever it wants to go (don't give a **** what it reads on the handle - I don't even look) to achieve a reading of 75 ft-lb on the torque adapter. I've checked it once a year for five years and it's never moved from 75 ft-lb when put on the digital torque adapter. So this idea of returning to the lowest reading is clearly been de-bunked. If you have multiple cars buy multiple HF $10 torque wrenches and set each to the value of torque needed for each car or truck using a digital torque adapter and just keep them in their respective trunks. The PI is a great tool but what the hell good does it do you if you've had a flat and got to change your tire on the road and it's in your toolbox at home? You're not going to keep a $150 torque wrench in your car's trunk now are you? (Well I keep a $200 Milwaukee M18 impact in my trunk as I'm too damn old and lazy to use a lug wrench - that's for peasants - but I'm weird that way.) Horses for courses and for what you want to do THIS IS THE WAY TO GO.

Denny, that was an excellent post but, inquiring minds want to know which digital torque adapter do you use?

 

[16again]

Not in the same price range, but well worth the money, and it doesn't have to be zeroed out after each use. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head.

EXACTLY the one I have been using for years!

 

[Lucid Moments]

Not in the same price range, but well worth the money, and it doesn't have to be zeroed out after each use. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head.

I have three Precision Instruments torque wrenches. Don't remember all the model #'s but one in in-lbs, one up to 100 ft-lbs, and I believe this one to 250 ft-lbs.

 

[dnschmidt]

I have several: a TOPTUL https://www.toptul.com/en/product-400040/Digital-Torque-Adapter.html which is ridiculously hard to use: I have to read the instructions at least three times every time I use it, and three Powerbuilt which are simple to use. I’ve got the Powerbuilt in both 3/8” and ½” drive so that I don’t have to use adapters. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085WMOOU/?tag=atomicindus08-20 The Harbor Freight Quinn should work just fine as these are all based on strain gauges which are inherently accurate.

 

[Ralf11]

if you already own the HF then just clamp something in a vise and hang a wt. to test it at the torque you want - 100 ft. lbs = 50 lbs at 2 ft from the fastener, etc.

if you don't own the HF then buy a CDI or PI or something real

 

[merkyworks]

@bubinga ; Got that HF 1/2“ unit like 10 years ago for tightened lug nuts. It worked and was what I could afford back then. HF unit still works but last year upgraded to PI unit below. PI unit is noticeably nicer, most notably having the flex head is a game changer!

Not in the same price range, but well worth the money, and it doesn't have to be zeroed out after each use. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head.

@demarpaint ; Learn something new every day, never knew PI unit doesn’t require zeroing out each time. Always zero out my torque wrenchs from force of habit

 

[Ralf11]

zero-ing is for the ones that work off of a spring - it takes a stretch if you leave it ... um.. stretched

 

[bubinga]

Not in the same price range, but well worth the money, and it doesn't have to be zeroed out after each use. Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head.

This must be it here.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[anndel]

I have Precision Instruments split-beams, Snap-on Techangles and CDI. I trust all 3 brands and take them once per year to my SO driver who has a meter and all are within mfr's specs.

 

[Kscardsfan]

You’re either gonna have to drop some decent coin for a CDI or truck brand one, or gamble with the HF model. That being said, for running up lugs the 9.99 HF special works great and has a lifetime replacement warranty against it.

 

[bubinga]

You’re either gonna have to drop some decent coin for a CDI or truck brand one, or gamble with the HF model. That being said, for running up lugs the 9.99 HF special works great and has a lifetime replacement warranty against it.

Yeah the precision instrument one is about $150.00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[bubinga]

Yeah the precision instrument one is about $150.00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This precision instrument torque wrench, does it click also when it reaches the set torque?

 

[merkyworks]

Precision Instrument does click, but it’s different than the HF one.
HF is like a “clunk” and PI is like a “ting”, if that makes since.

 

[dstblj52]

imho the quinn torque adapter is possibly another thing worth considering at 30 bucks apparently those never lose calibration but they don't stop either so take your choice

 

[bubinga]

imho the quinn torque adapter is possibly another thing worth considering at 30 bucks apparently those never lose calibration but they don't stop either so take your choice

Using the torque adapter as a torque wrench with a breaker bar or ratchet you mean?

 

[dnschmidt]

imho the quinn torque adapter is possibly another thing worth considering at 30 bucks apparently those never lose calibration but they don't stop either so take your choice

But, they do beep which is good since you can seldom see the display in actual use.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

A HF torque wrench will do just fine torquing wheels. They're actually quite accurate. The failure point with extremely high use is the ratchet mechanism itself.

All you're doing is attaching wheels. Make sure the surface is free of corrosion, and the wheel pulls in flush. Even if the torque wrench was wildly inconsistent, which I've seen no evidence they are, we're talking about an M12 or M14 stud and nut.

 

[Crabman]

dnschmidt

I have several: a TOPTUL https://www.toptul.com/en/product-400040/Digital-Torque-Adapter.html which is ridiculously hard to use: I have to read the instructions at least three times every time I use it, and three Powerbuilt which are simple to use. I’ve got the Powerbuilt in both 3/8” and ½” drive so that I don’t have to use adapters. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085WMOOU/?tag=atomicindus08-20 The Harbor Freight Quinn should work just fine as these are all based on strain gauges which are inherently accurate.

This got me thinking. Do you think this would dial in my ancient Craftsman beam style for simple tasks like lug nuts?

I am not building space ships, airplanes, etc.

Thanks, Bruce

 

[dnschmidt]

Well, with the beam style you would have to bend the pointer (which would bother someone with as bad of a case of OCD as I've got) but if you can handle that, sure why not?

Precision Instrument does click, but it’s different than the HF one.
HF is like a “clunk” and PI is like a “ting”, if that makes since.

One of the things I don' like about the PI split beams is that the "click", or whatever the hell that is, isn't very loud or easily felt as the lower torque settings. Mid-range and above no problem, below that you've got to be paying close attention to determine when it's snapped over.

 

[Mgdoug3]

That very true about the PI split beams. Low side is more of a thud than click.

 

[Kscardsfan]

Yeah the precision instrument one is about $150.00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

When I was growing up, working at Sears circa 2001-2003, a 1/2” Craftsman torque wrench was easily $99.99, so in terms of real money they’re substantially cheaper for much better quality.

 

[bubinga]

A HF torque wrench will do just fine torquing wheels. They're actually quite accurate. The failure point with extremely high use is the ratchet mechanism itself.

All you're doing is attaching wheels. Make sure the surface is free of corrosion, and the wheel pulls in flush. Even if the torque wrench was wildly inconsistent, which I've seen no evidence they are, we're talking about an M12 or M14 stud and nut.

Yeah thanks second gear. I've been spending too much money lately when I have a bunch of tools in storage, but I just can't get in there at the moment.
I might just get the harbor freight one for right now. I'm just going to be using it on wheels for now.
I don't anticipate doing any motor work or anything like that in the near future.