Old Radar
Well-known member
Excellent work! A place for everything and everything in its place. I hope the organization is as good today!
Wood cabinets for tool, parts or nuts and bolts or even your socks. please show them
- Thread starter drivesitfar
- Start date
Excellent work! A place for everything and everything in its place. I hope the organization is as good today!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Thank you sir.
Yes still as organized, just a bit different contents.
I’ve slowly been selling some of the machinist tools since I retired.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Jgaz, beautiful work on that tool box and the drill box was a very creative solution.
Jay
Jay
@ray h Thank you.
My drawers are 1/4” stock. They are strong enough but if/when I do another version I would go at least 3/8”.
Yes, I used Aluminum covered with felt. The exact thickness escapes me, but I ordered the material to be a nice fit in the saw kerf of my table saw blade. Thankfully when I built this box I had access to the shear at work.
The sliding till was kind of an after thought but it’s proven to be very handy.
ray h
Active member
Jgaz- thanks for the dimensions. I saved some old chestnut boards earlier this year. I've spent hours pulling nails. Ended up getting a wand to check for what was missed . I've been letting them stabilize in my shop before I run thru the plane. I did some small pieces and ended up with some 3/4" to as thin as 3/8. I would prefer using 1/2" for drawers. I just have to see what I end up with. I plan on knocking the most of the old weathered off and then let them set a month or so to see how the boards react. Do you use kiln dried wood? Thanks
@ray h
Sounds like a good plan with your chestnut boards.
When I make my projects using box joints I sometimes machine my drawer stock to the correct dimensions and use it right away. More commonly I will get the length and width dimensions close and then machine the stock to the desired thickness.
I also make extra pieces at this time.
Obviously you want the drawer stock has flat as possible if you are using a floating aluminum bottom like I did.
After machining my drawer stock, I will then “sticker” and stack the boards to see if any will move after being dimensioned. I might let the stock sit like this for 6 months or so. It isn’t uncommon to have a couple pieces twist or bow.
Heres an example of what I’m talking about.
I‘ve never used Kiln dried stock. I just normally get the stock from my supplier, machine it, stack it, and see how it behaves.
YMMV. I’m in Az. so it doesn’t take long for thin stock that is stored in my garage or shed to dry if it’s not already dry when I buy it.
Hope this helps.
Sounds like a good plan with your chestnut boards.
When I make my projects using box joints I sometimes machine my drawer stock to the correct dimensions and use it right away. More commonly I will get the length and width dimensions close and then machine the stock to the desired thickness.
I also make extra pieces at this time.
Obviously you want the drawer stock has flat as possible if you are using a floating aluminum bottom like I did.
After machining my drawer stock, I will then “sticker” and stack the boards to see if any will move after being dimensioned. I might let the stock sit like this for 6 months or so. It isn’t uncommon to have a couple pieces twist or bow.
Heres an example of what I’m talking about.
I‘ve never used Kiln dried stock. I just normally get the stock from my supplier, machine it, stack it, and see how it behaves.
YMMV. I’m in Az. so it doesn’t take long for thin stock that is stored in my garage or shed to dry if it’s not already dry when I buy it.
Hope this helps.
I’ll get this thread back on track.
A wooden cabinet with a stack of wooden drawers. My first attempt at making drawers, installing slides etc. a loooong time ago.
And one of the drawers storing my files and rasps in a simple wooden holder.
A wooden cabinet with a stack of wooden drawers. My first attempt at making drawers, installing slides etc. a loooong time ago.
And one of the drawers storing my files and rasps in a simple wooden holder.
captain14
Well-known member
Jgaz
nice work on the wood cabinet and tap and die case. It’s the satisfaction of doing the little jobs in the shop as you develop your skills.
nice work on the wood cabinet and tap and die case. It’s the satisfaction of doing the little jobs in the shop as you develop your skills.
Farmer J.
Well-known member
Plastic boxes are horrible! Awful to have to even mention of them on the vintage forum ...!
You are so right about doing small jobs and developing skills.
An example of this can be seen in this pic of the tap and die case closed.
Note the the two “fingers” very close together where the lid meets the case.
This comes from not making the case extra deep so you have extra depth material so you can cut out two fingers to keep the spacing symmetrical.
It’s strictly for looks, not strength, the box is no less functional but a learning experience none the less.
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JGAZ: nice work on the cabinetry and since I buy a lot of cedar from the mill right off the saw I love the stack of new boards you've got stickered and weighted down on your workbench. nice looking cabinets and boxes!!
want to share what glue and stains or finish you use?
want to share what glue and stains or finish you use?
@drivesitfar Thank you.
The glue that I use on most of my finger joint projects is Titebond 2. It seems to me that the darker color of the glue blends in well on the oak I usually use.
Also, glue sets REALLY quick here in Az.
If it’s a big project, I’ll start with a new, unopened bottle of glue.
My preferred finish is a home mixed, 3 part, wiping varnish.
Equal parts:
Satin finish spar varnish
Mineral spirts
Boiled Linseed oil
This link explains it well:
blog.lostartpress.com
The glue that I use on most of my finger joint projects is Titebond 2. It seems to me that the darker color of the glue blends in well on the oak I usually use.
Also, glue sets REALLY quick here in Az.
If it’s a big project, I’ll start with a new, unopened bottle of glue.
My preferred finish is a home mixed, 3 part, wiping varnish.
Equal parts:
Satin finish spar varnish
Mineral spirts
Boiled Linseed oil
This link explains it well:
Shop finish - Lost Art Press
blog.lostartpress.com
TailGunner3000
Well-known member
If that's a problem, try switching to hide glue. It provides a longer working time.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
This was a LEFT-BEHIND at my flea this morning. I have NO IDEA what it was originally. The top is tilted like a lectern. Those thin drawers, twelve (12) total, have forty-nine (49) little square compartments each. White porcelain knobs. Someone was using it for crystals. That's what was in it. Crystals inside little plastic cases. But I don't think that's what it was for originally. I wanted it real bad, but out of my range for today.
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OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Looks like it could have been in a printing shop and sections held lettering. With sloped top my guess is printer assembled the parts there for the newspaper or whether was being printed at their shop before heading to the printing press.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Is it possible that wedged shape tray top was a later addition?
Jay
Jay
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
I might have posted this old wood cabinet before but here are some better pics now that I’m going to pull it out of storage and use it. It’s about 5 foot tall and 18-20 inches wide and deep. It’s pretty decent quality too.
anybody else gave done nice wood cabinets or wood toolboxes to post pics of please do.
anybody else gave done nice wood cabinets or wood toolboxes to post pics of please do.
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Okay, don't kill me.
I was given this old wooden machinists box that was headed for the trash. It's missing the three bottom drawers and the "face?" that would pull out and cover them. I got the chisels out and squared up the remaining drawers and I'm turning it into a traveling vanity for my wife. I mounted a light in the space the 3 bottom drawers were missing and mounted a lazy Susan. Added the mirror, etc. I really like the sturdy leather handle on top and the beefy latches front and sides. Going to sand and oil it and hope she loves it!
I was given this old wooden machinists box that was headed for the trash. It's missing the three bottom drawers and the "face?" that would pull out and cover them. I got the chisels out and squared up the remaining drawers and I'm turning it into a traveling vanity for my wife. I mounted a light in the space the 3 bottom drawers were missing and mounted a lazy Susan. Added the mirror, etc. I really like the sturdy leather handle on top and the beefy latches front and sides. Going to sand and oil it and hope she loves it!
OP
drivesitfar
Well-known member
It’s a wood cabinet and you’re making it useful so why would we raz you about it? Also it seems to be a good way to take a selfie. Best of luck with your plan and I bet your gal loves it. It also looks like it might be an expensive Gertsner and worth making drawers for later on if she wants to make a change then. Any name in the lock?
Happy Thanksgiving everybody!!
Happy Thanksgiving everybody!!
Here are the wood cabinets I have in my shop. The wall mounted cabinets my work was throwing out, they are make localish to me, and I have a key for the locks.
the drawers were given to me by a neighbour who was moving at my parents old place. I keep odd ball bits and pieces in it
the drawers were given to me by a neighbour who was moving at my parents old place. I keep odd ball bits and pieces in it
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bmwrd0
Well-known member
Picked up these three wooden drawers the other day:
I am guessing that they were for storing negatives, but they are nice and now under one of my workbenches:
I am guessing that they were for storing negatives, but they are nice and now under one of my workbenches:
Jayman17
Well-known member
BMW, those fit nice under there, more drawers are always good.
Jay
Jay
bmwrd0
Well-known member
Picked this up yesterday, the new home for my hand woodworking tools:
I am still figuring out were I want things, and I know I am going to need to make some modifications, such as opening up some of the slots to allow my largest chisels to be hung up. But overall, I am pretty happy. I think it was made by the same people who make Harbor Freights machinst chests, as it has a general similarity to those. But I think it is probably mid-nineties, and decently made of mostly oak. I might through some Stanley stickers on it, maybe not. We shall see.
I am still figuring out were I want things, and I know I am going to need to make some modifications, such as opening up some of the slots to allow my largest chisels to be hung up. But overall, I am pretty happy. I think it was made by the same people who make Harbor Freights machinst chests, as it has a general similarity to those. But I think it is probably mid-nineties, and decently made of mostly oak. I might through some Stanley stickers on it, maybe not. We shall see.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Think about some plane rests so they are not resting on the blades too.
captain14
Well-known member
bmwrdO,
Nice find on the cabinet. Do you have a empty spot on the wall to hang it?
Nice find on the cabinet. Do you have a empty spot on the wall to hang it?
bmwrd0
Well-known member
Wall space is quite precious in my little shop, but I have it on an old roller that I am using for fasteners and the open space for power tools.
And that is part of the plan, Outlaw
bbbarracuda
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2008
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rlitman
Well-known member
They're sitting on wood in that photo, so I wouldn't sweat it, but I'd probably put down a sheet of cork for good measure.
RTM
Well-known member
I only do that to protect my shelves and drawer bottoms, not worried about the blades on wooden surfaces.
bmwrd0
Well-known member
Well, here is the wood case mostly filled up:
As you can see, I made a few mods. I added some hooks to the rear top, to hang a tri-square and brace, put in a shelf to sort block planes and router plane better, and opened up a couple of the chisel spots to take some of my larger ones.
The drawers have a mix of things:
Mostly I cleaned out my woodworking drawer in my main box, along with freeing up some space on the pegboard above my bench. Overall I am pretty happy with everything, but I am still figuring out how I want things.
As you can see, I made a few mods. I added some hooks to the rear top, to hang a tri-square and brace, put in a shelf to sort block planes and router plane better, and opened up a couple of the chisel spots to take some of my larger ones.
The drawers have a mix of things:
Mostly I cleaned out my woodworking drawer in my main box, along with freeing up some space on the pegboard above my bench. Overall I am pretty happy with everything, but I am still figuring out how I want things.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
wow!! nice
park city flyer
Active member
Picked this up yesterday, the new home for my hand woodworking tools:
I am still figuring out were I want things, and I know I am going to need to make some modifications, such as opening up some of the slots to allow my largest chisels to be hung up. But overall, I am pretty happy. I think it was made by the same people who make Harbor Freights machinst chests, as it has a general similarity to those. But I think it is probably mid-nineties, and decently made of mostly oak. I might through some Stanley stickers on it, maybe not. We shall see.
park city flyer
Active member
That cabinet looks too nice to be from HF.
I don't remember seeing drawers with milled box corners on the HF machinist's box.
I don't remember seeing drawers with milled box corners on the HF machinist's box.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
bmwrd0
Well-known member
You go looking for a price on one spot facer, see the price, and think "I wonder if I can find that cheaper used?" And the next thing you know, this is on your doorstep:
A vintage 1944 set of countersinks/spot facers, not quite complete but close enough. In fact, more sizes than I will ever need. But it seems like the guy didn't know, or care, what he had as I found this for 1/4 any other set, priced at around one size would go for at Grainger.
A vintage 1944 set of countersinks/spot facers, not quite complete but close enough. In fact, more sizes than I will ever need. But it seems like the guy didn't know, or care, what he had as I found this for 1/4 any other set, priced at around one size would go for at Grainger.