They look nice. Price is in range to boot!Look at CDI torque wrenches..
Thanks I’ll look into it.you might have a look at transcat. they deal in high end torq wrenches and may have some refurbished used ones for sale. ive bought some new ones there and it seemed like a respectable company
I was looking at a used SnapOn on eBay.When my Snap-on dealer tested and calibrated my Harbor Freight torque wrench he was surprised to how accurate it was. It was right on point. If you have a dealer see if he will do it. Mine did it free. If you really want another one I’d look for a Snap-on or Precision Instruments one.
What did cost to calibrate?When my Snap-on dealer tested and calibrated my Harbor Freight torque wrench he was surprised to how accurate it was. It was right on point. If you have a dealer see if he will do it. Mine did it free. If you really want another one I’d look for a Snap-on or Precision Instruments one.
Since mine would be second hand I wonder what they charge for calibration?I bought a a SO inch pound used, had a hard life, gave it to my dealer and came back with a calibration sticker on it, still has scars but if they say it's good I'm good.
CDI makes Snap-On torque wrenches.They look nice. Price is in range to boot!
how reliable are they?
Might have been $50, been a while, I recently bought this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EB9O9S/?tag=atomicindus08-20What did cost to calibrate?
Out of interest, does the calibration company give you a print out of any adjustments they had to make? Wondering how far out of calibration a torque wrench goes in a year, and if different brands go more or less out of calibration.At my work it to$95 to cal. A tw . They have a company come it to do it. We just give them the tools and the company pays for it. It is done once a year. I have hf cdi Precision Tekton Snap on and another two other can’t think of the manufacturer. Have had most of them for 15+ years. Have not had any fail.
Sweeeettttt!CDI makes Snap-On torque wrenches.
$150-$180 on AmazonCDI makes Snap-On torque wrenches.
It was free he calibrated right on his truck. He had the stuff to do it. Or at least he said he calibrated it too. Not sure what all processes that requires but he done the thing where you pull it till it clicks and done a few other things then handed it back.What did cost to calibrate?
They do only if it fails calibration. I have never had any of my personal tools fail Cal. I believe the company is Quality Calibration. I know the company owned torque wrenches have failed a few times they are Snap On but it’s mostly due to employee abuse. Using it like a regular ratchet and not putting it back to the lowest setting after they are done using them. If it fails I know they have to investigate and see what aircraft it was used on. I think it’s + or - 4% I will have to ask.Out of interest, does the calibration company give you a print out of any adjustments they had to make? Wondering how far out of calibration a torque wrench goes in a year, and if different brands go more or less out of calibration.
That's how I check mine also. I've only had one test off and it was visibly damaged.I check my name brand (no HF) click torque wrenches by using them 'against' name brand beam type units (in my case CF and SK). If the 1/3-1/2-and higher settings ranges are close (i.e. within a few #s then I'm good to go. For 'precision' applications I just grab a beam type (this includes the increasingly common 'torque to yield' applications). Note: I'm retired, so I have no access to the big name tool trucks that always seemed to be pulling up near the service bays. Their 'calibration check/test' prices were pretty cheap IIRC (they used a bench mounted dial type check/test device).
SO is typically +\-2% from what I’ve seen at work. CM and SK are 4%.They do only if it fails calibration. I have never had any of my personal tools fail Cal. I believe the company is Quality Calibration. I know the company owned torque wrenches have failed a few times they are Snap On but it’s mostly due to employee abuse. Using it like a regular ratchet and not putting it back to the lowest setting after they are done using them. If it fails I know they have to investigate and see what aircraft it was used on. I think it’s + or - 4% I will have to ask.
Snap-on...I have the HF torque wrenches. Not pleased with them. I would like to buy a used big name brand as I can’t afford new. My question can I send them off to be calibrated or repaired? What should I look out for? Which would you buy?
Like the previous poster said, it depends on your use. If you can always see what you torque with good access, you can’t beat a beam wrench for reliability and accuracy. A click is good for high repetition. Engines seldom need over 100 pounds, unless you are doing big trucks or heavy equipment. 150 will do just about anything you might need for general work, but inch pounds are great for smaller jobs. What do you need it for?Snap-on...
Which? Depends on your usage.
The 1/2" is usually 12.5-250 range
The 3/8" drive is good for 125 ft. Lbs if you find one..(some are only 100)
The 125lb. model will also go down to 5 ft. Lbs or 60 in. Lbs
There are, of course, several ways to do this. After awhile I started using a 1/4, 3/8, and a 1/2" drive 8 point socket (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" sizes of course) for this purpose. I just set the clicker T wrench to a particular T setting and then 'connect' it to my beam T wrench followed by working the wrenches against each other with the beam T wrench facing upwards.That's how I check mine also. I've only had one test off and it was visibly damaged.
Thanks!You can do a lot with three torque wrenches, and would cover most stuff a person would encounter with automotive & such.
For quite a while these were what I had (picked up a couple others since, mostly duplicates and a 3/8 techwrench),
1/2 drive 50-250 ft lb,
3/8 drive 5-75 ft lb
1/4 or 3/8 drive 30-40 to 250 IN LB
Engine and drive train work on regular cars/trucksLike the previous poster said, it depends on your use. If you can always see what you torque with good access, you can’t beat a beam wrench for reliability and accuracy. A click is good for high repetition. Engines seldom need over 100 pounds, unless you are doing big trucks or heavy equipment. 150 will do just about anything you might need for general work, but inch pounds are great for smaller jobs. What do you need it for?