210.11(C)(4) Garage Branch Circuits and other NEC 2017 Codes Questions

[SJMaye]

I am about to wire my new detached garage/shop. If it matters, it cannot and will not be able to be used as a dwelling structure. My state of TN uses NEC 2017.

210.52(G)(1) Garages- In each attached garage and in each detached garage with electric power, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed in each vehicle bay and not more than 1.7 m (5 ½ ft) above the floor.

210.11(C)(4) Garage Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be installed to supply receptacle outlets in attached garages and in detached garages with electric power. This circuit shall have no other outlets. Exception: This circuit shall be permitted to supply readily accessible outdoor receptacle outlets.

I am confused a little. I am planning on many more than 2 outlets. I had assumed my 20- 2 gang boxes would be plenty and far exceed minimum requirements. Now I am wondering if they are saying I must put those 2 outlets on their own dedicated branch circuit.

Next just to be sure- They are saying I can put my two outside outlets on the same circuit with the garage bay outlets. Correct?

I have other questions. These are good starters.

 

[sparky 1971]

The codes you posted are just the minimum. At least one circuit for the garage, exterior receptacles can be on the same circuit. The garage circuit has to have at least one receptacle per parking stall. You can proceed as you had planned.

 

[SJMaye]

The codes you posted are just the minimum. At least one circuit for the garage, exterior receptacles can be on the same circuit. The garage circuit has to have at least one receptacle per parking stall. You can proceed as you had planned.

What about the part, "This circuit shall have no other outlets". Doesn't that mean no other garage workshop outlets on this circuit with the exception of readily accessible outdoor receptacle outlets?

 

[jeepxj]

I believe G1 is for EV charging. Should be dedicated if so.

I'm curious if a 240v outlet would suffice there. you could put in welder outlets and meet the requirements then while being useful for your current needs.

"Receptacle. A receptacle is a contact device installed at the
outlet for the connection of an attachment plug. A single
receptacle is a single contact device with no other contact
device on the same yoke. A multiple receptacle is two or
more contact devices on the same yoke.

Receptacle Outlet. An outlet where one or more receptacles
are installed."

 

[sparky 1971]

What about the part, "This circuit shall have no other outlets". Doesn't that mean no other garage workshop outlets on this circuit with the exception of readily accessible outdoor receptacle outlets?

Anything in the garage is fair game for the circuit, receptacle wise. Other than the exterior receptacles, nothing more than garage receptacles can be on the circuit. No lights, no bedrooms, no living room, etc.
Since your garage is detached, I am going to assume you will install a subpanel and have more than one circuit. If so you can pretty much do whatever you want. Just make sure the receptacles are on a 20 amp circuit(s). If you have a bonus room upstairs type thing, it can't share the receptacle circuit.

 

[Terry D]

Basically you need a minimum of 2 circuits to a garage these days. One dedicated 20 amp just for receptacle outlets in the garage. No other outlets can be on it. The code defines a outlet to where utilization equipment is attached to building wiring. A receptacle is just one kind of outlet. Pretty much, no lighting, can be on it. If you are not installing a sub panel, you would have to run a multiwire branch circuit. This does not violation having more than one feed to a building. As Sparky1971 said, outside receptacles on the garage can be on the receptacle circuit.

Also all receptacle outlets have to be GFCI protected, including the garage door openers. You can not have a GFCI receptacle up high at the opener, it has to be lower where you do not need a ladder to reset it.

 

[SJMaye]

Hi. I really appreciate the explanations. Yes, I have a 100A sub panel. The garage/shop is 1200sqft with a 500sqft attic.

To repeat back so I have it right-

• The 2 garage receptacles required can be on the same circuit as the additional 18 I had planned, as well as the outdoor receptacles.
  • Garage/workshop lights must be on a different 15A or 20A circuit.
  • I will actually have ceiling mounted receptacle to accept the plugs from the ceiling lights. I assume this will be OK.
• Attic lights and receptacles must be on a different circuit from the garage receptacles.

Here are a few more questions I want to confirm-

1. Garage door opener- Does is not required to be on a dedicated circuit.
2. All garage receptacles must be GFCI protected
3. Lights do not need to be AFCI or GFCI protected
4. Outdoor lights at garage door and man door can be on same circuit as interior lights
5. Outdoor receptacles must be stamped WR for weather resistant and have a work in use cover
6. Indoor garage receptacle do not need to be WR or TR (tamper resistant)

 

[Neggy]

If you have room in the panel, I like to isolate lighting circuits

Same for garage door openers

If you pop a breaker or GFCI feeding your bench or wall plugs, you don't want it taking out your lights or garage door openers.

My golf cart charger is on a stand alone 20 Amp circuit, as is my compressor

2 garage door openers are on a 15 amp breaker

Overhead lighting is on a 15 amp circuit

outlet outside the garage door and feeding the pole light ( on a photo-electric cell) is a dedicated 15A GFCI breaker, weather resistant plug with a weather resistant cover

 

[SJMaye]

I have the space. I can see what you are doing. Compartmentalizing circuits by function. I like what you are doing. I had been looking at minimizing the number of circuits.

 

[SJMaye]

Also all receptacle outlets have to be GFCI protected, including the garage door openers. You can not have a GFCI receptacle up high at the opener, it has to be lower where you do not need a ladder to reset it.

Yep. I saw that- trying to reset a GFCI outlet up that high would be a mess. Because of that I was trying to tie it in with all the other receptacles that would be protected. Those GFCI breakers are pricey. Nearly $50 to control a single receptacle seemed expensive.

 

[jeepxj]

I have the space. I can see what you are doing. Compartmentalizing circuits by function. I like what you are doing. I had been looking at minimizing the number of circuits.

for wall outlets consider 2- 20a circuits on an every other leapfrog. less likely to overload if you're working in a particular area with stuff.

 

[SJMaye]

Are you saying to use 2 circuits say for a wall of outlets. Leapfrogging the connections so they alternate circuit breakers?

 

[exranger06]

• Hi. I really appreciate the explanations. Yes, I have a 100A sub panel. The garage/shop is 1200sqft with a 500sqft attic.
  
  To repeat back so I have it right-
  
  

  • The 2 garage receptacles required can be on the same circuit as the additional 18 I had planned, as well as the outdoor receptacles. Correct

• • Garage/workshop lights must be on a different 15A or 20A circuit. Correct. However, if you have more than one circuit for the receptacles, you could put the lights on one of the receptacle circuits. As long as one of the circuits is JUST for receptacles.
  • I will actually have ceiling mounted receptacle to accept the plugs from the ceiling lights. I assume this will be OK. Yes, that's ok.
• Attic lights and receptacles must be on a different circuit from the garage receptacles. Correct, but same as the garage lighting: You COULD put them on one of the garage recep. circuits, as long as you have another circuit that's JUST for garage receps.

Here are a few more questions I want to confirm-

1. Garage door opener- Does is not required to be on a dedicated circuit. Correct
2. All garage receptacles must be GFCI protected Correct. This includes the receptacles that you're going to plug the lights into.
3. Lights do not need to be AFCI or GFCI protected Correct, however if they're going to be plugged into receptacles, the receptacles need to be GFCI (see my response to #2)
4. Outdoor lights at garage door and man door can be on same circuit as interior lights Correct
5. Outdoor receptacles must be stamped WR for weather resistant and have a work in use cover Correct, they're also supposed to be TR if they're less than 5.5 ft from the ground.
6. Indoor garage receptacle do not need to be WR or TR (tamper resistant) They don't need to be WR, but they're still supposed to be TR if they're less than 5.5 ft from the floor.

See my responses in red.

 

[jeepxj]

Are you saying to use 2 circuits say for a wall of outlets. Leapfrogging the connections so they alternate circuit breakers?

yes.

 

[SJMaye]

Thanks for the advice, guys. Let me do a little work on this. I am bound to come up with something more.

 

[beemerphile]

While the Code doesn't prescribe how many receptacles you can put on a 20 amp circuit, I have always used 180 VA per outlet as a minimum planned load. Using an 80% circuit utilization, this would put the max outlets on a 20 amp circuit at 10. More than that seems like bad planning. While you may plan them as simply convenience outlets, the day will come when you get more people in there and more stuff plugged in than you planned. The electrician who wired a large multi-purpose room at our church put a long string of outlets around the walls on one circuit thinking that it was only for the custodian to plug in a vacuum cleaner. He didn't think they might hire a cleaning company to come in with a crew swinging rotary buffers; or about the wild game supper or the ladies indoor garage sale where folding tables were set up around the perimeter and everyone had something they wanted to plug in, or ....

 

[SJMaye]

While the Code doesn't prescribe how many receptacles you can put on a 20 amp circuit, I have always used 180 VA per outlet as a minimum planned load. Using an 80% circuit utilization, this would put the max outlets on a 20 amp circuit at 10.

Good thought. In my case I have 20 2 gang outlet boxes or 40 outlets. Are you saying in your example that would be 10 outlets or 5 double gang boxes?

This is where something like Exrangers leapfrogging would help by adding a circuit, right? Are there other scenarios to help with what you are pointing out?

 

[larry4406]

Those GFCI breakers are pricey. Nearly $50 to control a single receptacle seemed expensive.

Why do you need to commit to a GFCI breaker? Come out of the panel to a GFCI outlet and then go to the garage door openers.

 

[beemerphile]

Good thought. In my case I have 20 2 gang outlet boxes or 40 outlets. Are you saying in your example that would be 10 outlets or 5 double gang boxes?

This is where something like Exrangers leapfrogging would help by adding a circuit, right? Are there other scenarios to help with what you are pointing out?

I mis-spoke. 10 receptacles. A duplex would count as one and a quad as two. I also leap-frog if there are two circuits.

 

[SJMaye]

Why do you need to commit to a GFCI breaker? Come out of the panel to a GFCI outlet and then go to the garage door openers.

You are right. That is exactly what I will do.

 

[Syberia]

That is exactly what I did as well. It provides the added bonus of giving you another outlet on a separate circuit you can plug a high-draw tool into if needed.

 

[alfredeneuman]

The electrician who wired a large multi-purpose room at our church put a long string of outlets around the walls on one circuit thinking that it was only for the custodian to plug in a vacuum cleaner

The 180va per outlet rule doesn't apply to residential, but it applies to churches.
Did he have prior info about your needs, or was he on his own to figure it out?
Churches are notoriously bad with specifications

 

[beemerphile]

The 180va per outlet rule doesn't apply to residential, but it applies to churches.
Did he have prior info about your needs, or was he on his own to figure it out?
Churches are notoriously bad with specifications

He wasn't exactly on his own to figure it out. He was a church member donating his services. Since he works for the PoCo nobody questioned what he did. He was asked to install outlets "around the room" and he did. Even if 180 va per outlet isn't mandated for residential, I think it still makes sense to do it if there are no specific load plans for the outlets.

 

[alfredeneuman]

He was a church member donating his services.

In other words not a competent electrician. We did one that had volunteer drywallers.
They used 2-5/8" screws on 5/8" drywall on 2X4 walls and managed to hit our MC cable on every stud.

 

[beemerphile]

In other words not a competent electrician.

True.

On further reflection, I won't try to judge his competence. I'll just say he made a mistake.

 

[dscheidt]

Are you saying to use 2 circuits say for a wall of outlets. Leapfrogging the connections so they alternate circuit breakers?

my very strong preference is not to leap frog, but install 4" square boxes with two duplex receptacles in each box. The left receptacle in each box is wired to one circuit, the right to another. Makes it easy to plug two high draw tools in at the same place, and be sure they're on different circuits. or if you have a very high draw load (my planer qualifies for this), you can make sure nothing else is on that circuit, just by looking at which side they're plugged in on.

 

[larry4406]

my very strong preference is not to leap frog, but install 4" square boxes with two duplex receptacles in each box. The left receptacle in each box is wired to one circuit, the right to another. Makes it easy to plug two high draw tools in at the same place, and be sure they're on different circuits. or if you have a very high draw load (my planer qualifies for this), you can make sure nothing else is on that circuit, just by looking at which side they're plugged in on.

This is what I did in my garage.

I also made sure that the GFCI's at the start of the circuit were positioned in a readily accessible location for reset and not blocked by benches, machines, etc., even though this required more wire.

 

[beemerphile]

my very strong preference is not to leap frog, but install 4" square boxes with two duplex receptacles in each box. The left receptacle in each box is wired to one circuit, the right to another. Makes it easy to plug two high draw tools in at the same place, and be sure they're on different circuits. or if you have a very high draw load (my planer qualifies for this), you can make sure nothing else is on that circuit, just by looking at which side they're plugged in on.

Another option would be to split-wire the duplex receptacles and feed the top outlet from one 20A circuit and the bottom one from another 20A circuit. This makes two circuits available less expensively and you don't have double gang boxes all over the place. By code, the two circuits would have to be fed from a double pole breaker so that when one is de-energized, the other is as well.

 

[jeepxj]

my very strong preference is not to leap frog, but install 4" square boxes with two duplex receptacles in each box. The left receptacle in each box is wired to one circuit, the right to another. Makes it easy to plug two high draw tools in at the same place, and be sure they're on different circuits. or if you have a very high draw load (my planer qualifies for this), you can make sure nothing else is on that circuit, just by looking at which side they're plugged in on.

technically that's still leapfrogging. every other outlet on opposite circuits. and i do agree that's ideal.

 

[jeepxj]

Another option would be to split-wire the duplex receptacles and feed the top outlet from one 20A circuit and the bottom one from another 20A circuit. This makes two circuits available less expensively and you don't have double gang boxes all over the place. By code, the two circuits would have to be fed from a double pole breaker so that when one is de-energized, the other is as well.

which would mean if one trips it takes the other offline with it. im not a fan of this.

 

[alfredeneuman]

By code, the two circuits would have to be fed from a double pole breaker so that when one is de-energized, the other is as well.

Listed handle ties on the breakers would qualify as well

 

[beemerphile]

which would mean if one trips it takes the other offline with it. im not a fan of this.

Do you trip a lot of breakers? If you trip one, you are going back to the panel anyway. Unless a critical system is attached to the other circuit, I don't see the issue. These are general use convenience outlets.

 

[jeepxj]

Do you trip a lot of breakers? If you trip one, you are going back to the panel anyway. Unless a critical system is attached to the other circuit, I don't see the issue. These are general use convenience outlets.

of course i dont. i put all my outlets on a 30a breaker for general use. /s.


I'm lazy. if i trip a breaker i'll plug into the next outlet to complete the task. then i'll forget to go reset the breaker for a week.

 

[billconner]

210.52(G)(1) Garages- In each attached garage and in each detached garage with electric power, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed in each vehicle bay and not more than 1.7 m (5 ½ ft) above the floor.

So, the way that's written, garages are not required to have electric power, correct?

 

[beemerphile]

Before you casually write off the option, it is worth a comparison. The split wired option can be configured as a multi-wire branch circuit fed by a single 12/3 Romex supplied from a 20A 2-pole GFCI breaker. Take your one wire and roam happily around your shop like Johnny Appleseed dropping two circuits anywhere you want them. There is not much cost advantage on the wire even though two conductors are saved, I guess because the wire is not as common. Wiring the circuit is much easier. There is only one wire to install in the walls. There are four wires to pigtail at each receptacle as there is only one ground to bond and one neutral to wire for each receptacle. Use a deep box. The factory jumper can be left on the neutral side of the receptacle and removed on the other side to split wire the hots.

The side-by-side duplex option has twice as many receptacles to buy and install; 1/3 more pigtails to make up; double instead of single gang boxes and cover plates to buy and cut in; and two runs of 12/2 Romex. You may save a bit by using two standard breakers and GFCI receptacles over a double pole GFCI breaker for the split-wired approach. I prefer the GFCI breakers in any case because, where possible, I like to keep the protection at the panel instead of distributed, and the receptacles are less bulky and easier to install neatly. I don't know for a fact whether a GFCI breaker is more reliable than a GFCI receptacle. I know I have replaced several GFCI receptacles but never a GFCI breaker. I think a GFCI receptacle might be a better choice on a circuit that requires arc fault protection because my experience with dual function AFCI/GFCI breakers is not good. I think residential arc fault is legislated stupidity. I understand and agree with the need in industrial systems as I have witnessed the burn-down and managed the subsequent repair of a 3000 amp 480 volt panel.

 

[beemerphile]

So, the way that's written, garages are not required to have electric power, correct?

Detached garages are not required to have power.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I think residential arc fault is legislated stupidity. I understand and agree with the need in industrial systems as I have witnessed the burn-down and managed the subsequent repair of a 3000 amp 480 volt panel.

AFAIK there isn't an arc fault product available that will protect a 3000A 480V panel, although any solidly grounded wye connected service over 1000A requires GFI protection.

 

[dscheidt]

Another option would be to split-wire the duplex receptacles and feed the top outlet from one 20A circuit and the bottom one from another 20A circuit. This makes two circuits available less expensively and you don't have double gang boxes all over the place. By code, the two circuits would have to be fed from a double pole breaker so that when one is de-energized, the other is as well.

That saves the two bucks a decent outlet costs, at the expense of dual trip.

Before you casually write off the option, it is worth a comparison. The split wired option can be configured as a multi-wire branch circuit fed by a single 12/3 Romex supplied from a 20A 2-pole GFCI breaker. Take your one wire and roam happily around your shop like Johnny Appleseed dropping two circuits anywhere you want them. There is not much cost advantage on the wire even though two conductors are saved, I guess because the wire is not as common. Wiring the circuit is much easier. There is only one wire to install in the walls. There are four wires to pigtail at each receptacle as there is only one ground to bond and one neutral to wire for each receptacle. Use a deep box. The factory jumper can be left on the neutral side of the receptacle and removed on the other side to split wire the hots.

The side-by-side duplex option has twice as many receptacles to buy and install; 1/3 more pigtails to make up; double instead of single gang boxes and cover plates to buy and cut in; and two runs of 12/2 Romex. You may save a bit by using two standard breakers and GFCI receptacles over a double pole GFCI breaker for the split-wired approach. I prefer the GFCI breakers in any case because, where possible, I like to keep the protection at the panel instead of distributed, and the receptacles are less bulky and easier to install neatly. I don't know for a fact whether a GFCI breaker is more reliable than a GFCI receptacle. I know I have replaced several GFCI receptacles but never a GFCI breaker. I think a GFCI receptacle might be a better choice on a circuit that requires arc fault protection because my experience with dual function AFCI/GFCI breakers is not good. I think residential arc fault is legislated stupidity. I understand and agree with the need in industrial systems as I have witnessed the burn-down and managed the subsequent repair of a 3000 amp 480 volt panel.

Yes, it's not surprising that installing half as many outlets is less work. but it's not that much less work. It's no harder to install a 4" box than a single gang outlet. it's also half as many outlets, in a less useful arrangement. You can run double duplex as a MWBC, too, of course, which gives you the same single cable.

 

[beemerphile]

AFAIK there isn't a product available that will protect a 3000A 480V panel, although any solidly grounded wye connected service over 1000A requires GFI protection.

No, it is all PPE and training. I had confused the two terms Arcing Fault and Arc Flash.

 

[Cruzan80]

That saves the two bucks a decent outlet costs, at the expense of dual trip.

Yes, it's not surprising that installing half as many outlets is less work. but it's not that much less work. It's no harder to install a 4" box than a single gang outlet. it's also half as many outlets, in a less useful arrangement. You can run double duplex as a MWBC, too, of course, which gives you the same single cable.

I did the single duplex, two circuits option for my garage. Figured most standing power tools go in the top, portables go in the bottom. Since I am a one-man DIY shop, I am not running more than one tool at a time anyway. I just put outlets where I needed, and didn't ever see a need for having a spare 3 outlets by each tool.