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mr.lemons

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New from KTC.




No.Product nameRetail reference priceRelease date
TDBRP6Precision ratchet screwdriver set 5 bits (10 types of tips)¥ 4,500August 2021
TDBRPX7Precision ratchet screwdriver tool set 7 points¥ 4,500August 2021

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mercifiknow

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I just recently bought those pliers from amazon as well. Actually came into use the other day......... changing out the pull switch on a ceiling fan. Some other pliers would have gotten the job done, but this was easier. Always some satisfaction when using a new tool for the first time and it makes the job easier, which is why I purchased it in the first place.
I also used mine of stripped screw on my F150.
Did a great job!
 

mercifiknow

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Not quite sure what you mean, but the head has only one detent at the 180 degree (straight) position. There are no other stops, but the head is under tension — it doesn't move around when I shake the ratchet. I put a 17mm deep socket on it, and the head stays put at any position or orientation (in other words, if I tilt the ratchet down while the head is at an angle, the weight of the socket doesn't move it.)
Bought and came in a couple of hours ago.

I also got a Koken 2021 date planner as SWAG. Was hoping for a flag to put in my new shop (I they ever finish it). Better than nothing though!
 

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AceofSpad3s

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How do the vessel ball grip interchangeable bit handles with the metal ferrule differ from the craftsman branded ones sold years ago that were all plastic?
Is it metal all the way down the entire length of where the bit is inside the driver, or is just a short section towards the end of the handle?
 

Reed Prince

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How do the vessel ball grip interchangeable bit handles with the metal ferrule differ from the craftsman branded ones sold years ago that were all plastic?
Is it metal all the way down the entire length of where the bit is inside the driver, or is just a short section towards the end of the handle?
The entire length is metal.IMG_1442.jpg
 

AceofSpad3s

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The entire length is metal.
I forgot about the ratcheting ones, I mean the the ones with the double sided bit like on the right. The 220W3J1 is the same design as the craftsman ones, but the end is metal. I also just saw the 230w which is probably more in line with what I am looking for. I'm wondering if it's just like an inch of metal at the end with the rest being plastic, or if it is metal all the way to the end of the inside.
 

superautobacs

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I posted this in the Tiny Tools thread, but thought it deserves a spot here as well.

The smallest 1/4 drive ratchet I own to date is SEK's Pro-Auto 'Smart Head' ratchet Part # MHR-2 (COO is Taiwan). It is 72-tooth, has a built-in quick spinner on top, quick-release, and the back drag is really light.

51418638840_6d0abf830a_b.jpg1/4" Drive Ratchets by ChrisCas aka Superautobacs, on Flickr
 

BlitzcrankJapan

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AceofSpad3s

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A ratcheting alternative to the 230W is the Anex 397. It's the one ratcheting driver I always keep in my tool
I thought the 230w was interesting because it was a strike able one, which makes me think it might be all metal internally and I was thinking of using it with long shank tapered driver bits, but the hex are only an inch or two long, which is why I was curious if the internals were all metal since I might as well just use my craftsman ones if the only section engaging the flats would be plastic as well.
Not as if it really matters, but it makes it easier to justify buying similar tools to what you already have :evil:
What is the minimum bit the anex will take, I think it I saw a diagram showing 40mm depth. I like the vessel going into a stubby, but not that the removable blade has the section of handle molded onto it, do the happen to offer a bit adapter version of the removable shaft?
 

1foxracing

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I posted this in the Tiny Tools thread, but thought it deserves a spot here as well.

The smallest 1/4 drive ratchet I own to date is SEK's Pro-Auto 'Smart Head' ratchet Part # MHR-2 (COO is Taiwan). It is 72-tooth, has a built-in quick spinner on top, quick-release, and the back drag is really light.

51418638840_6d0abf830a_b.jpg1/4" Drive Ratchets by ChrisCas aka Superautobacs, on Flickr
Chris, I wanted to say thank you for your YouTube video on the SEK Pro-Auto ratchets and their availability through Idaka. Using the the info from your video I was able to order all 3 of them and the total cost was just below $100 for all 3 delivered. Total time was around 2 weeks from when I ordered them until I received them at my home.
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E.T.

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It’s been mentioned before but SEK, or Suekage, makes some of the nicer old Truecraft ratchets. I’ve got a 3/8 flex that’s got the smallest head, including the thumb wheel, of any ratchet I own. It’s older so believe it’s 40 tooth, or close to it
 

1foxracing

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I got these through Webike in Japan.
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Also from Webike and what I assumed were going to be to manufactured in Japan prybars but these are clearly manufactured in Taiwan

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So what is it Kowa, Made in Taiwan or Japan??
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Speed-Racer

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My box of tools from Japan finally arrived. Used a third party buying site and this has been a long painful process. They were suppose to combine orders from multiple vendors, but I was only able to receive items from 1 vendor. Koken zeal sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive. KTC flare sockets and a bunch of items I cannot wait to try.
 

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superautobacs

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Hi Mark,

Pry bars that are geared toward mechanics, with the angled tip and with grip handles all seem to be imported. The only exception to that, from what I've noticed, is these ones from KTC.
LZ2-330
LZ2-420
LZ2-600

edit: I should also note that KOWA doesn't seem to manufacture their own stuff as they don't appear to have factory. They design and develop their own tools and outsource the manufacturing.

lz2-330~600.png
 

superautobacs

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My box of tools from Japan finally arrived. Used a third party buying site and this has been a long painful process. They were suppose to combine orders from multiple vendors, but I was only able to receive items from 1 vendor. Koken zeal sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive. KTC flare sockets and a bunch of items I cannot wait to try.
So you're expecting more stuff then? Regardless, that's a nice haul!
FWIW, I think the only item that's not made in Japan is the SKll speeder T-handle.
 

Speed-Racer

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So you're expecting more stuff then? Regardless, that's a nice haul!
FWIW, I think the only item that's not made in Japan is the SKll speeder T-handle.
This order is finished. Surprised you noticed, tried to order only made in Japan items. I had a few things from other vendors that never shipped and after several Weeks without a status update. Finally cancelled the other orders. my notes to the third party asking for assistance were I guess ignored, or the seller never replied to them.

The order you see was from 1 seller that shipped 7 boxes and the third party originally put the 7 boxes in one supersized box, Maybe 5-6 emails and damage waiver confirmation notes they opened and used one box. Glad I paid extra to see pics of the order before it shipped, saved a lot in shipping. See below, I can still access the original package pics.
 

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1foxracing

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Chris you should purchase that KTC 3 pc set and do I video on them and then I'll decide if I want to pull the trigger on them :)
I also used Kowa's contact page to ask about who actually manufactures their products, I'll be interested to see if they reply.
 
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riceaterSLC

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My box of tools from Japan finally arrived. Used a third party buying site and this has been a long painful process. They were suppose to combine orders from multiple vendors, but I was only able to receive items from 1 vendor. Koken zeal sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive. KTC flare sockets and a bunch of items I cannot wait to try.

Nice score, sorry to hear about your troubles.
Those flex crowfeet are nice, I've never seen those before. I'm curious to hear what you think of them.
 

Speed-Racer

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The flex crowfeet are amazing this order fills in the other sizes I did not already own. They are thick and do not flex on stuck fittings, doubt I will break a Tone crowfoot socket. You can tell they are hand finished. Reasonable priced, the largest size 24mm (1/2 drive) is just under 25 dollars and smallest was 16 dollars. Not counting shipping and handling fees which added about 10% to the order. The flex crowfeet items were the main reason I placed the order, not available in the US at this price point.
 

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BMoscato

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Does anyone have any experience with Japanese made sockets? Are they better quality than the Chinese and Taiwanese stuff that we see? If so, are there any brands that are used by Japanese mechanics over other brands?

-Bryan
 

genog

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I went through my box of secondary/back-up tools and found a bunch of Truecraft pliers
Bought these in the 80's from the local Auto Parts store. Mostly to use at the junk yard and for loaning to relatives.
I remember them to be fairly low priced.
Quality was ok
They served their intended purpose.
Doing it all over again, I would have bought USA Craftsman


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Even found a Japanese made nail puller

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Qualitytools

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The flex crowfeet are amazing this order fills in the other sizes I did not already own. They are thick and do not flex on stuck fittings, doubt I will break a Tone crowfoot socket. You can tell they are hand finished. Reasonable priced, the largest size 24mm (1/2 drive) is just under 25 dollars and smallest was 16 dollars. Not counting shipping and handling fees which added about 10% to the order. The flex crowfeet items were the main reason I placed the order, not available in the US at this price point.
Very nice! So would hat be about $300 for the set?
 

Qualitytools

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Does anyone have any experience with Japanese made sockets? Are they better quality than the Chinese and Taiwanese stuff that we see? If so, are there any brands that are used by Japanese mechanics over other brands?

-Bryan
I see you are new to the Forum GJ, welcome. KOKEN is what you want for sockets, do some searching on the forum here and you will get lots of feedback about KOKEN.
 

Speed-Racer

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Does anyone have any experience with Japanese made sockets? Are they better quality than the Chinese and Taiwanese stuff that we see? If so, are there any brands that are used by Japanese mechanics over other brands?

-Bryan
Very nice! So would hat be about $300 for the set?
Maybe 285 plus shipping. So I have a little over 300. My first order was with Amazon.jp for the 6 piece set. The latest order better prices and lower shipping, but a headache. Amazon.jp asked 30ish + shipping for the larger sizes. Yen price x .0093 which worked at the time to convert to usd.
I purchased the 22mm in 6 and 12 point for line and o2 sensors, have not tried them yet. Tone and other Japan companies skip sizes, but I ordered the available sizes from 8mm to 24mm. You can order up to 36mm.
 

Vicks

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I see you are new to the Forum GJ, welcome. KOKEN is what you want for sockets, do some searching on the forum here and you will get lots of feedback about KOKEN.
Nah, Ko-ken is **** ! i recommend he buys the full set of the latest Nepros Gold IP tools, nothing but the best.. lol
 

dstblj52

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Not quite the same thing, but Anex make hex bits for their small '1903' impact driver.

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thanks for the bottom picture i was seeing that pop up on amazon under the vessel name will have to see where i can find it under anex thanks so much
 

pizza

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dstblj52

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you mean megadora impacta (908 series)? no

also, it sounds like a terrible idea to me. i'd use wera hex-plus keys or mac/proto RBRT hex sockets.
i tried rbrt hex on them its got like a 60% success rate i figured might try sticking and rbrt bit on the end
 

pizza

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i tried rbrt hex on them its got like a 60% success rate i figured might try sticking and rbrt bit on the end

interesting. what's up with the fasteners you're having issues with?

also, can you describe how rbrt is failing on them? if rbrt is stripping them out, i really doubt anything else will work. normally i think of using manual impact when there are camout issues, but that shouldn't be the case for hex when you have the driver fully inserted? did you tap it in all the way with a hammer first?
 

superautobacs

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With the in-hex dimensions all buggered up, it sounds like it's time to pound in a larger sized profile into that screw.
Is it a cap-head screw, button head, or countersunk screw?
 

sweet victory

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i-6xCt6vr-L.jpg

Have finally come across my first of Japanese/Koken tools I feel like are a waste (at least for what I work on). They were on sale for $21, so not too much of a loss. Bought these hoping they would come in handy. It was finally their time to shine, and it turns it was a complete flop. I'm not an expert on DIN vs ISO vs JIS inverted torx fastener design/GD&T, but these won't work on any of the etorx screws found on German cars.

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You can see how about half way up the torx feature, there is a significant chamfer built into the head. I imagine this is great for mitigating stress risers. However, this prevents Koken's nut grip etorx sockets from fully engaging. The retention ball in the nut grip socket hits this chamfer, and actually makes it impossible to even have the screw rest in the socket. I imagine if the chamfer angle were smaller, it the koken socket would just spit out screws. Additionally, since there is a leading chamfer on the ID of the socket, you might only get about 30% of actual engagement with the head of the screw. My snap on etorx socket is able to fully engage the same screw.
 

gigamel

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Looks like the Koken sockets are for low profile E-torx bolt heads.
Snap-on FLCE160 (low profile) vs FLE160A (regular):

index1.png
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