What makes you think the ability isn't overstated?
With that being said, I own a 77, a corded 7-1/4", and would trade both for a nice cordless. Don't get me wrong corded saws have their place, but the mag is heavy and cutting the cord is so nice!
What circular saw size for someone that wants to build their own home?
- Thread starter 809
- Start date
What makes you think the ability isn't overstated?
With that being said, I own a 77, a corded 7-1/4", and would trade both for a nice cordless. Don't get me wrong corded saws have their place, but the mag is heavy and cutting the cord is so nice!
rlitman
Well-known member
If you like your wood cutting circular saw at all, do not use it with an abrasive blade, and do not use it to cut metal!
Metal cutting saws run at a slower RPM (too slow for good wood cutting), and have motors without vents. Abrasives and metal shavings sucked through your wood saw's motor in the cooling air stream will kill it.
Unfortunately, there is no one saw to rule them all here. Metal saws will always be heavier and cut wood poorly.
Oh, and cutting 6x6's with a circ saw. Yeah, that'll come out great. Anything cordless is going to be built around cutting either 2x dimensional lumber or sheet goods. 6x6 puts you past 10" circ saw. They make gigantic circular saws for this, but a chainsaw will serve you better. You're likely going to want one anyway in an off-grid home.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have to imagine you have done this before, so I am surprised at this comment. I did a set of steps and retaining wall at the entrance of my last house out of 6x6 with just a 7.25" porter cable 324MAG and a hand saw, and it came out great. Lots of cutting, but if your layout is good and you use a guide (I use a 12" speed square), there is no reason for it to not come out great.
What am I missing?
Attachments
rlitman
Well-known member
Dunno, but my 7-1/4" PC can't reach the middle of a 6x6. I can cut a 4x4 if I go all around four sides, but need to finish a 6x6 with another saw. I think my father has the 324Mag. I'll have to take some measurements one day.
Yes, a speed square (I usually use a 6") is a MUST HAVE circ saw accessory.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It leaves about a 1" square, which will easily break off and then clean with a chisel, or you can cut it with a handsaw in a couple seconds
thooks
Well-known member
Cordless Makita or Ridgid 7-1/4” with 4 batteries.
you won’t regret it.
I have a 30 year old Porter Cable 7-1/4” corded saw that I built two houses and lots and lots of other stuff with. Bought a brushless Ridgid kit 3 years ago and never think about dragging a cord out anymore.
you won’t regret it.
I have a 30 year old Porter Cable 7-1/4” corded saw that I built two houses and lots and lots of other stuff with. Bought a brushless Ridgid kit 3 years ago and never think about dragging a cord out anymore.
jar944
Well-known member
I've always understood that worm drives were generally west coast, and sidewinders were east coast.
Not sure what the middle uses, domesticated beavers or hand saws id guess...
GrantCee
Well-known member
There are more than those two options. For instance: instead of a big generator and corded tools, using a much smaller generator just to charge batteries. Or, using a vehicle with an inverter, running it for short periods using a multiple-port fast charger (~30 minutes).
The days of needing piles of heavy, low-capacity NiCD or NiMH batteries for inefficient brushed tools are gone. These days, I can work all day long with a spare battery. Depending on the tool and what I'm doing, I may not even need the spare.
One battery (at least on the Milwaukee products, but guessing pretty much all of them) is plenty for all day, especially if you're only talking a person or two. There's just not that many cuts in the day before you lose the light or your energy. I'm generally a "one and a backup" guy anyway, but it's not a bunch of batteries.
Do not agree, depends on what tool, what amp battery, and job. But, (my M18FUEL) circ saw in particular EATS batteries, big ones too.
A 1.5 (standard issue) or 2.0 and you are not only blowing through batteries but also stalling due to the weaker amperage batts.
------
If you go cordless, go big. Get the top of line saw, and mid to high amp batteries. Then you will have full power and able to go all day switching between batteries.
GrantCee
Well-known member
Let me give you an actual use example.
Last fall I had to do major structural repairs on a 20x30 building. They involved cutting away the bottom 2’ of 3/4” plywood sheathing, tearing out the rotted sill plate, cutting the 2x6 rotted studs back to solid wood, cutting and install a new sill plate (including drilling holes for new concrete anchors), cutting new replacement stud sections plus additional 2x6 sections to sandwich on both sides of the repaired studs, and finally ripping new 2' sections of 3/4” sheathing.
This work was required around the entire perimeter of the building. In addition, I put in three new windows which required their own extra framing and sheathing work.
Aside from a nail gun, I used (all Makita) a 1/2” brushless drill, 6-1/2” brushed circular saw, brushless recip saw, brushless track saw (with the 18v x2 battery configuration), and a brushless 10” compound miter saw (also x2).
Over the entire project, I never had to change batteries in any of them during a day’s work. Some I had to put new batteries in at the start of each day, but never did I need to grab a spare during the day. (I own enough batteries so each tool had its own.)
The miter saw did a lot of cuts, and its batteries lasted a couple of days at a time. The track saw completed the whole project without a battery change.
Now imagine what it would have been like running corded tools: I’d need 5 extension cords, always tangling with each other; if I only used a couple of extension cords to minimize the tangling, I would have been constantly unplugging/plugging as I switched tools or worked my way around the building. Nightmare.
Cordless is simply better.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I think your saw or battery has a problem then. My m18 fuel 7 1/4 saw with a 9 amp battery cut all the 5/8 thick osb roof deck for 2100' 4/12 roof and all the rafter tails on 1 recharge during lunch. I don't think they recommend using anything smaller than a 4 or 5 ah battery on the saw.
I had a mag 77 skill before the fuel and it never saw the light of day again. I never would of guessed years ago that a battery powered saw would be so good. I have used 6.5" 18v dewalts and always thought of them as a joke, rather have a Japanese pull saw for cutting up in the rafters.
I know this is off topic but the east coast west coast comment is spot on, I remember helping my friend frame on the west coat in the 80's.
West coast, red or blue bandana, Colt 45 T shirt, cut off Levi shorts or surfer style swim trunks, 6" leather boots, two or three nail bags on sides and back with the framing hammer on a loop in the center of your back, Skill 77 worm drive saw was a must, also all of your cords had to be yellow with twist lock connectors. East coasters always had the nail bag apron up front with the tape measure in the center.
West coast, red or blue bandana, Colt 45 T shirt, cut off Levi shorts or surfer style swim trunks, 6" leather boots, two or three nail bags on sides and back with the framing hammer on a loop in the center of your back, Skill 77 worm drive saw was a must, also all of your cords had to be yellow with twist lock connectors. East coasters always had the nail bag apron up front with the tape measure in the center.
Last edited:
quickfarms
Well-known member
West coast is worm drives
east coast sidewinders are for finish carpentry. For framing real men use a chainsaw.
you have not lived until you have done 45% cuts in beams with a 16” makita beam saw. What fun. Spray car wax makes it cut so much easier
east coast sidewinders are for finish carpentry. For framing real men use a chainsaw.
you have not lived until you have done 45% cuts in beams with a 16” makita beam saw. What fun. Spray car wax makes it cut so much easier
My saw came with an 8.0Ah battery and it will definitely go a full day. I don't think it would work well or run very long on a 1.5 or 2.0 - definitely the wrong batteries for the job.
Ton ton
Well-known member
OP, cool thread. I always wanted to know how to wear a nail bag.
Ton ton
Well-known member
I never use a worm drive skil saw.
While I don't have one I watched a friend cutting with a 5.0, when switched to a 9.0. The big battery definitely performs better.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bigger isn't always better. Depends on the cell used, power draw and design. Torque test channel on youtube has shown varying performance changes with larger batteries
jives
Well-known member
The example GrantCee gave is worth noting. Cordless are immensely more convenient on the jobsite and in the shop. Not a question. But the downside of cordless is a massive increase in cost (upfront and continued battery replacement, and then the inevitable platform/battery change), and I believe a more delicate saw (at least my Makita cordless vs. my Skil sidewinder corded).
The OP talked about metal cutting. My Skil handles a Diablo Steel Demon blade with no problems while cutting angle iron and 1/4" steel plate. There is no need for a dedicated metal cutting saw for the occasional user. But, I do think my Makita would struggle as it flexes more and I think it could bind up. Metal is not so forgiving when pinching the blade.
In sum, a quality (even used) corded 7 1/4 will do everything the OP wants and last for decades for considerably less cost. Less convenient for sure. . . so buy both. So, get a small and lightweight cordless (6 1/2", but at least 18 V) for nearly all work and also a used corded 7 /1/4" for $75 to have for the metal, larger stock, and a backup. Problem solved.
The OP talked about metal cutting. My Skil handles a Diablo Steel Demon blade with no problems while cutting angle iron and 1/4" steel plate. There is no need for a dedicated metal cutting saw for the occasional user. But, I do think my Makita would struggle as it flexes more and I think it could bind up. Metal is not so forgiving when pinching the blade.
In sum, a quality (even used) corded 7 1/4 will do everything the OP wants and last for decades for considerably less cost. Less convenient for sure. . . so buy both. So, get a small and lightweight cordless (6 1/2", but at least 18 V) for nearly all work and also a used corded 7 /1/4" for $75 to have for the metal, larger stock, and a backup. Problem solved.
I think the newer designs in the 8.0Ah and 12.0Ah batteries offer the best power. Somebody on YouTube (Pro Tools Review maybe?) did a comparison with various batteries, and those two were the best IIRC
I don't think they're the best reference for this particular application.
pennsylvaniaboy
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 417
a normal 7-1/4 is my answer...I picked up milwaukee's version of a mag77 wormdrive....that's more saw than I would want to sling around 90% of the jobs i'd use a circular saw for.
nmk_61802
Well-known member
I prefer a standard circular to the wormdrive. If I cut lumber all day, maybe my opinion would change. Makita is my preference for corded:
I had a 6.5" corded saw once, blade selection sucked at the time. I got rid of it and got a 7.25".
I still use the corded saw for cutting sheet goods if I am stationary. For everything else I use Milwaukee's 7.25" Fuel cordless, with a couple of 12Ah batteries.
Makita 15 Amp 7-1/4 in. Corded Lightweight Magnesium Circular Saw with LED Light, Dust Blower, 24T Carbide blade, Hard Case 5007MG - The Home Depot
Modernize the functionality of your jobsite with this Makita Corded Lightweight Magnesium Circular Saw with LED Light, Dust Blower, Carbide blade, Hard Case.
www.homedepot.com
I had a 6.5" corded saw once, blade selection sucked at the time. I got rid of it and got a 7.25".
I still use the corded saw for cutting sheet goods if I am stationary. For everything else I use Milwaukee's 7.25" Fuel cordless, with a couple of 12Ah batteries.
Ton ton
Well-known member
I like 7.25" cordless or corded. Make sure you buy brand name. Just my 2 cents.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Guess we will have to disagree on that.
Larger batteries always add run time. At a point though, they don't always make the tool more powerful. That is all I am saying.
glend123
Well-known member
I'm left-handed, so I prefer a sidwainder. In my left hand, the blade of the sidewinder is on the right side of the saw, it's easy for me to see the cut line. There's no doubt that when cutting downhill, the weight of a 77 can help the saw guide itself along the cut line. I've used both. For production framing or roof cutting, I'd take the 77. For basic daily DIY, I'd take a sidewinder.
Way back in the day when I built my house, I was recently out of the military. With numerous household military moves, for power tools all I owned was a cheap-*** circular saw and a power drill. That got me started. But they sucked. After a few days I bought a good quality sidewinder, and a few days later after I figured out a work flow, I bought a Dewalt chop saw. The chop saw was my cutting station. The corded circ saw got dragged around as needed. You do what you do with what you have, and you make it work.
I didn't own air tools back then so I hand nailed. Fairly large house, 4200sqft. Burned out the crappy drill on literally the LAST hole for the central vac tubing. Bought a Milwaukee drill as a replacement. Still have that MKE drill to this day.
Do you need a lot of tools to frame? Heck no. But the tools you have, you won't want them to slow you down. You want them to cut efficiently. You want a saw that will run. Blades that will cut. Dull blades burn wood, put undue stress on the saw's motor, and because you force the cut, they open up the door for an accidental injury. On a remote site you want your tools to last and you don't want to spill blood. A broken tool on a remote building site can wreck your productivity. And maybe the next day's productivity as well.
Fast forward many years...
Maybe 5 years ago I bought a Dewalt brushless drill and impact driver set. Small batteries, maybe 2aH. But man oh man, what a revelation brushless motors were to me with regards to battery life. So much better than my 12v brushed cordless.
About a year ago I invested in more Dewalt brushless. Track saw, circ saws, drills, drivers, grinder, oscillating multi-tool, plus a few others. I do have some larger batteries. I think my largest are 9aH. During the black friday sales there were all sorts of battery/tool combination packages. I have a mix or 2, 4, 5, 8, and 9aH batteries. They each have their place.
If you'll have a cutting station set up, corded would be a fine choice. You can drag a coded saw all over a structure with a few extension cords. It obviously gets easier once you get a couple of circuits live within the structure.
Today's cordless tools with brushless motors and a reasonably sized battery? They do really work well. And with a few 2aH batteries or with larger batteries, they can cut all day. I have a cordless Dewalt DCS574, a 7-1/4" brushless. I typically have a 5aH battery in it. It'll cut all day.
With regards to the circular saw itself, definitely go with the larger 7-1/4" saw. For thicker materials, have a hand saw to finish the cut. Easy solution. Sensible solution. An economical solution. If it's in your budget, have a corded or cordless at your cutting station and perhaps a cordless saw that you can easily carry around the site. If the corded goes down, it can be your back-up.
I've dragged corded tools up ladders, on scaffolding, and across roofs. Cordless is easier, lol. My first cordles circular saw was a 12v. It was good for what it was, which was convenience. But with the battery limitations and a brushed motor, it was by no means an all-day tool. Today's stuff is pretty remarkable.
Just buy quality.
For metal, I'd recommend starting with an angle grinder for versatility.
Stone? I use my oldest, worst-shape circular saw for stone cutting with a diamond blade. Or a diamond blade in an angle grinder.
Think of your building site. The frame you are building. How you think you'll work at the site. Certain tools may make sense once you think through how you'll build. When I was starting out, I bought tools well after I needed them. My work dictated the tool purchases.
Good luck!
Mongo
Way back in the day when I built my house, I was recently out of the military. With numerous household military moves, for power tools all I owned was a cheap-*** circular saw and a power drill. That got me started. But they sucked. After a few days I bought a good quality sidewinder, and a few days later after I figured out a work flow, I bought a Dewalt chop saw. The chop saw was my cutting station. The corded circ saw got dragged around as needed. You do what you do with what you have, and you make it work.
I didn't own air tools back then so I hand nailed. Fairly large house, 4200sqft. Burned out the crappy drill on literally the LAST hole for the central vac tubing. Bought a Milwaukee drill as a replacement. Still have that MKE drill to this day.
Do you need a lot of tools to frame? Heck no. But the tools you have, you won't want them to slow you down. You want them to cut efficiently. You want a saw that will run. Blades that will cut. Dull blades burn wood, put undue stress on the saw's motor, and because you force the cut, they open up the door for an accidental injury. On a remote site you want your tools to last and you don't want to spill blood. A broken tool on a remote building site can wreck your productivity. And maybe the next day's productivity as well.
Fast forward many years...
Maybe 5 years ago I bought a Dewalt brushless drill and impact driver set. Small batteries, maybe 2aH. But man oh man, what a revelation brushless motors were to me with regards to battery life. So much better than my 12v brushed cordless.
About a year ago I invested in more Dewalt brushless. Track saw, circ saws, drills, drivers, grinder, oscillating multi-tool, plus a few others. I do have some larger batteries. I think my largest are 9aH. During the black friday sales there were all sorts of battery/tool combination packages. I have a mix or 2, 4, 5, 8, and 9aH batteries. They each have their place.
If you'll have a cutting station set up, corded would be a fine choice. You can drag a coded saw all over a structure with a few extension cords. It obviously gets easier once you get a couple of circuits live within the structure.
Today's cordless tools with brushless motors and a reasonably sized battery? They do really work well. And with a few 2aH batteries or with larger batteries, they can cut all day. I have a cordless Dewalt DCS574, a 7-1/4" brushless. I typically have a 5aH battery in it. It'll cut all day.
With regards to the circular saw itself, definitely go with the larger 7-1/4" saw. For thicker materials, have a hand saw to finish the cut. Easy solution. Sensible solution. An economical solution. If it's in your budget, have a corded or cordless at your cutting station and perhaps a cordless saw that you can easily carry around the site. If the corded goes down, it can be your back-up.
I've dragged corded tools up ladders, on scaffolding, and across roofs. Cordless is easier, lol. My first cordles circular saw was a 12v. It was good for what it was, which was convenience. But with the battery limitations and a brushed motor, it was by no means an all-day tool. Today's stuff is pretty remarkable.
Just buy quality.
For metal, I'd recommend starting with an angle grinder for versatility.
Stone? I use my oldest, worst-shape circular saw for stone cutting with a diamond blade. Or a diamond blade in an angle grinder.
Think of your building site. The frame you are building. How you think you'll work at the site. Certain tools may make sense once you think through how you'll build. When I was starting out, I bought tools well after I needed them. My work dictated the tool purchases.
Good luck!
Mongo
I have seen testing on this topic on Milwaukee FUEL 7.25" circ. saws that was pretty clear. The motors and engineering are very different between impacts and circ saws, and the Torque Test guys aren't doing anything on saws. If I recall correctly, not all of the brushless saws benefitted, but the rear-handle one I have did. But whatever.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I am not saying it doesn't ever matter. I am saying it doesn't always matter and that there is a limit.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
I served an apprenticeship as carpenter and worked my way up to foreman. I loath worm drives. Too heavy, too dangerous, and impossible to get a straight cut on plywood without a straightedge. The Makita 5007 is the standard around here. They have excellent balance, last forever and make anyone look great.
Sorry, just saw the metal cutting part. Worm drives are good for that, and only that.
Sorry, just saw the metal cutting part. Worm drives are good for that, and only that.
OK...
I'll put it this way - my M18 Rear-Handle benefits. With a 5.0Ah, it wasn't great. With the 8.0Ah HO, it's a beast - no issues cutting anything my Makita 5477NB can handle. The 12.0Ah probably adds nothing more than more cuts/time, but for me I'd probably run two 8.0's over the day over a single 12.0.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So you agree. Glad we got there.OK...
I'll put it this way - my M18 Rear-Handle benefits. With a 5.0Ah, it wasn't great. With the 8.0Ah HO, it's a beast - no issues cutting anything my Makita 5477NB can handle. The 12.0Ah probably adds nothing more than more cuts/time, but for me I'd probably run two 8.0's over the day over a single 12.0.
I don't agree that the torque test guys have any relevance in this discussion. They haven't tested anything in this category that I've seen.
My thought is that the OP is building his own house to A: save money, and B: to build it correctly.
Cordless tools, imo, do not meet the first requirement. Besides, the OP specifically asked about 'a corded' circular saw in his first sentence.
Cordless tools, imo, do not meet the first requirement. Besides, the OP specifically asked about 'a corded' circular saw in his first sentence.
pl_silverado
Well-known member
FWIW, I bought this 36v Makita and it is a damn fine saw. Works longer than I can without a recharge, no dealing with a cord.
Buy this. Got mine at $249 at home depot with 2 free extra batteries. Best deal by far and it will do everything you need it to.
I much prefer the Cordless Skilsaw 48v Wormdrive to this Makita and anything else, but can't recommend it due to price alone. That Makita is a steal. As far as corded saws when building a house, they're a pain in the ***.
Terry D
Well-known member
Abrasive blades ****. Get a carbide tip metal cutting blade. I have one in my 6 1/2 inch dewalt cordless saw. I cut all my conduit, unistrut and threaded rod with it. Make sure you wear saftey glasses, they do throw out chips. Never had a problem with it hurting the saw.