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Broad axe manufacturer

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Oct 10, 2021
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Hello everybody!

I got me a Broadaxe that I'm looking to restore a bit, but I'm really curious about the manufacturer as I don't recognize that logo.
can anyone help?WP_20211010_09_56_03_Rich.jpg
 
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81CJ-7

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Maybe a shot of the whole head. The shape may help determine possible geographic region.
 
OP
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nope, not delaminating
it's actually in pretty decent condition, jusdging by how old the handle looked
waiting on evaporust to arrive
I usually use phosphoric acid but I wanna try evaporust and bluing it afterwards

what would you suggest for rust protection?
I used boiled linseed oil in the past and it seems to work well, but it isn't very wear resistant.

20211010_160218.jpg
 

four.cycle

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It does look like you've got some kind of makers mark there.
Private Lugnutz highlights stuff with a piece of chalk - you might try that and see if we can suss out who made it.
 

crguy

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Looks European to me. If you want to preserve collector value, I wouldn't use acid or Evaporust on it.
 

81CJ-7

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I was thinking European as well. Kind of like a German goose wing axe
 
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Looks European to me. If you want to preserve collector value, I wouldn't use acid or Evaporust on it.
why not?
considering the current condition it could either be not that old(like maybe 40-50 years) or really old but well taken care of
until I learn more about the details it's basically "Schrödingers Axt"
then again, even new these things can go for a pretty penny

what about surface coatings?
would oil be ok?

@four.cycle that might be worth a shot
now I just need to figure out where I can get some chalk
 

RTM

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Acid and Evaporust can both discolor the metal, and on some tools it leaves a very distinct line where the two grades of metal meet. BIG turnoff for collectors. Users may not care.

See an example of the line here.


PXL_20210815_210943824-X4.jpg
 

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Interesting
I assume that's the difference in grain structure due to the hardening/temper process.

What about surface coatings?
I was thinking about evaporust and then put a phosphate coating on, then a light oil film or maybe boiled linseed oil.
In other tests I had good success with phosphate and then some bluing to get a really dark surface.

But I have not attempted that on something like this, so there might still be a visible difference.

Thanks for your advice, I might have to think this over and conduct some more tests.
 

4xdog

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A line on the metal from Evapo-Rust usually is the result of having the work partially submerged. I've not had lines like those shown by @RTM with fully-immersed pieces.

That said, it wouldn't surprise me if a hardened edge might show a slightly different color. What Evapo-Rust treatment would do to collectability, I can't say. Unrestored, as-found would probably have the greatest appeal.
 

RTM

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That line is where the harder edge metal is forge welded to the softer metal of the body. That piece was completely submerged. Often see it on hatchets, where the harder cutting edge is forge welded to the softer body, creating the same line.

The Evaporust / Air line is is usually a bit more bath tub ring looking, where the Evaporust is evaporating, the line moves just a hair, and you get a 1/8" thick line. DAMHIKT
 

pfaustus

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I don't share the Evaporust is bad mindset. But, it is just overkill for that axe. Steelwool with wd40, then a light coating of linseed oil. New handle. Sharpen it up and go. Just don't be one of those people that sands and polishes an old axe until it looks like a fireman's presentation piece.
 

2oolhound

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That is a unique ax for sure and agree it is a European design. How long is the cutting edge? What did the handle look like? It could easily be early 1900's. If it isn't a battle axe (heads would roll if you swung one of those) it was a serious hewing tool. The way it throws a shadow on the hardwood floor makes me wonder if it fits the term "broadaxe" by North American standards. NA standards call for a completely flat side. The handles are steamed so they lift up and away from the plane of the flat side so your hands clear the side of the log you are hewing. Here are some typical NA style broadaxes. You can see they are completely flat on one side and you can see how the handles bend upward.BroadAxeMed5272.jpgBroadAxeMed5266.jpg
 

RTM

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Are you seeing a shadow or the bevel? I swear I see a bit of damage at the top edge that makes me think bevel. But yeah, not your normal axe, bearded by some definition I think.

none of my hewing hatchets have bent sideways handles, so bummed, that would be quite cool.
 

2oolhound

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I'm seeing a shadow on the wood floor which makes me think the bottom can't be flat. My flat sided hatchets have straight handles also, it was just the broad axes that could cause some damage to your hands with wild swings that prompted the bent handles. They are sold like that.
 

RTM

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Hmm, better screen says maybe you are right. Bevel is showing up now, faintly, and thus the shadow isn’t bevel, can see the damage in the bevel and shadow.
 
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yeah, somehow my phone makes the bevel black
it had a straight handle, about 17" long
the bevel is about 8.5" long, it has a double bevel and no flat side


I guess the head weighs about 3 pounds, but that's just a guess.
 
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shanny19

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49 years in logging country says this thread is mis-titled. That's some kind of goose-wing something or other. It's cool, but it ain't a broadaxe.
 
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I'm seeing what looks like the letters DL followed by the arrow looking marks on the logo.
that kind of looks like a good guess

can't find anything with these letters tho
I'm starting to suspect that this might have been made by a small forge or something


49 years in logging country says this thread is mis-titled. That's some kind of goose-wing something or other. It's cool, but it ain't a broadaxe.
Sorry, I didn't know any better
first time I read about the "Goosewing" was in this thread actually
apperantly it could also be a "doloire"
 

pfaustus

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Isn't a goosewing ax just a German style broad ax, or more likely around here, Pennsylvania Deutsche? That has always been my understanding of it.
 

81CJ-7

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Isn't a goosewing ax just a German style broad ax, or more likely around here, Pennsylvania Deutsche? That has always been my understanding of it.
I believe that “Goosewing” is the shape of the axe. A shape that was very common in Germany and thus in Pennsylvania amongst the Deutsche(Germans). I believe that Goosewings were also made in Austria.
 

Private Lugnutz

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I used boiled linseed oil in the past and it seems to work well, but it isn't very wear resistant.
You could try mixing beeswax with the BLO. That's what my old man would do for some body. But I don't think there's anything that will make it last if you're going to use it. If you were going to hang it on a wall I would recommend FluidFilm. I am a huge proponent. But it is too wet for using.
I don't share the Evaporust is bad mindset.
Me neither.
Acid and Evaporust can both discolor the metal, and on some tools it leaves a very distinct line where the two grades of metal meet. BIG turnoff for collectors.
Evaporust and Metal Rescue will definitely strip any and all trace of oxidation (rust, and any other oxide-based "patina" that has accrued on the naked steel). But it is chemically impossible for it to affect the color or the integrity of the naked steel. It is not an acid. As for the desirability, I wonder about that. Stripping the axe will return it to the condition it was in after it was originally quenched in oil and water and then tempered and finished, probably with nothing more than linseed oil and bees wax. In that condition one could see the line between the steel of the head and the forge-welded cutting edge. Isn't that line very evident on axes made today by guildsmen and craftsmen using traditional techniques? As far as I know, it wasn't traditional to conceal that line with some kind of finish, so I'm not sure why it would be considered undesirable to uncover it, regardless of the method used. But as I said, I'd be curious to hear more.
 

RTM

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Evaporust and Metal Rescue will definitely strip any and all trace of oxidation (rust, and any other oxide-based "patina" that has accrued on the naked steel). But it is chemically impossible for it to affect the color or the integrity of the naked steel.
Then how do we explain the two shades of gray, or colors in the plane iron I included a picture of? Attached here again. This was a simple Throw it in Evaporust. No acid, no Simple Green, nothing.

PXL_20210815_210943824-X2.jpg
 

Private Lugnutz

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Huh? I'm confused. Didn't you already explain that the entire plane iron was fully submerged in the Evaporust? And that the plane iron was made with two pieces of steel forged together? The Evaporust didn't create the line between them. It just revealed that it was made with two pieces of steel of two different grades with slightly different shades. Make no mistake, it is very powerful. But it has no ability to impugn naked steel. It will absolutely strip anything that is oxidebased (rust, paint, etc) on the steel's surface. It will even promote flash rust. But it can have no molecular interaction with the steel. The funny thing about Evaporust and Metal Rescue is that it won't even remove grease, grime, or dirt. Has no effect on it.
 

crguy

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Huh? I'm confused. Didn't you already explain that the entire plane iron was fully submerged in the Evaporust? And that the plane iron was made with two pieces of steel forged together? The Evaporust didn't create the line between them. It just revealed that it was made with two pieces of steel of two different grades with slightly different shades. Make no mistake, it is very powerful. But it has no ability to impugn naked steel. It will absolutely strip anything that is oxidebased (rust, paint, etc) on the steel's surface. It will even promote flash rust. But it can have no molecular interaction with the steel. The funny thing about Evaporust and Metal Rescue is that it won't even remove grease, grime, or dirt. Has no effect on it.
Serious collectors all hate Evaporust cleaned tools. You can spot them from across the room.
 

crguy

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Then how do we explain the two shades of gray, or colors in the plane iron I included a picture of? Attached here again. This was a simple Throw it in Evaporust. No acid, no Simple Green, nothing.

PXL_20210815_210943824-X2.jpg
You're absolutely right, and it leaves that totally unnatural gray look that collectors hate.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Serious collectors all hate Evaporust cleaned tools.
Did you take an exhaustive national poll I don't know about? Or are you just deigning to consider those who you are familiar with to be either representative of the entire hobby or the definition of serious? One would have to be oblivious to not recognize and acknowledge that it certainly has its detractors, especially among the crusty old boys clubs (e.g., EAIA, etc), but the days of their draconian stranglehold on the hobby are long gone, and since I know, associate, and regularly deal with serious collectors who now swear by it, including members of several different clubs, it certainly can't be all.

Evaporust and Metal Rescue will sometimes leave a chalky black carbon residue on steel's surface. That is a perfectly natural residue from the last layer of rust removal and easily removed with a soft abrasive and oil. What is left is original steel. It is definitely denuded. It needs reoiling and rewaxing.

But, to each his or her own.
 
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for the time being I will just use ballistol as it leaves me the option to change my mind later and it will prevent further corrosion
I think leaving it as is also allows the oil to just soak in and protect the metal better
there are entire musiems full of ballistol coated medival stuff, so it oughta be good for something^^

I have experimented a bit with the handle
I fittet one with the length it had, but it seems way too heavy for one handed use, a 24" handle appears to be better
I might take it for a spin at our house in the countryside and then just hang it on the wall, and for that it just seems more appealing as is

apperantly the "restore or not" is a sensitive topic
but I think it's just like religeon, it's fine to have your own oppinion about it, but you should't make any claims as to what is right or wrong for the collective.

anyways...looks like the maker is gonna stay anonymous for a while, maybe for ever
curiosity is a hell of a drug tho

so here's some more pictures of the profile and with handle
I left the wedge proud so I can swap or remove the handle if I feel like it :D
 

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Private Lugnutz

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apperantly the "restore or not" is a sensitive topic
Not really. Most people here are very respectful of preferences. I'm actually fairly conservative, and prefer to preserve as is whenever possible. I will never put a tool on a power wheel, or put a power wheel to a tool, for example, where some guys prefer the bright polished look. But rust is not patina, in my opinion, and it will continue to corrode if left unretarded. So, I definitely de-rust. The only thing more benign than Evaporust and Metal Rescue is an e-tank, in my opinion, but I disassembled mine when those magical solutions appeared.
but I think it's just like religeon, it's fine to have your own oppinion about it, but you should't make any claims as to what is right or wrong for the collective.
It should go without saying, but well said.
there are entire musiems full of ballistol coated medival stuff, so it oughta be good for something^^
Alot of guys swear by it. I think it might have some salts in it, which I am wary of, but as you say, it sure as heck has a long and venerable following. And let's be real, we're not talking about Tiffany's objects! That coolass axe will be just fine. :)
 

crguy

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Did you take an exhaustive national poll I don't know about? Or are you just deigning to consider those who you are familiar with to be either representative of the entire hobby or the definition of serious? One would have to be oblivious to not recognize and acknowledge that it certainly has its detractors, especially among the crusty old boys clubs (e.g., EAIA, etc), but the days of their draconian stranglehold on the hobby are long gone, and since I know, associate, and regularly deal with serious collectors who now swear by it, including members of several different clubs, it certainly can't be all.

Evaporust and Metal Rescue will sometimes leave a chalky black carbon residue on steel's surface. That is a perfectly natural residue from the last layer of rust removal and easily removed with a soft abrasive and oil. What is left is original steel. It is definitely denuded. It needs reoiling and rewaxing.

But, to each his or her own.
I certainly fit in the "crusty old boys" group of collectors, and can tell you I've Never encountered a high end tool collector that uses Evaporust on valuable collectible tools. It's a common mistake with low end and beginning collectors, but as they move up they quickly learn better. The color that Evaporust leaves on something like a cast iron plane is not removed by reoiling and rewaxing, period.
 

Private Lugnutz

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I've Never encountered a high end tool collector that uses Evaporust on valuable collectible tools.
That's purely anecdotal. Unless you're again supposing that your experience is representative of all collectors.
It's a common mistake with low end and beginning collectors, but as they move up they quickly learn better.
That's your opinion.
The color that Evaporust leaves on something like a cast iron plane is not removed by reoiling and rewaxing, period.
I don't collect planes and I have never cleaned one. Or anything made of cast iron, for that matter. But it has had no deleterious effect on any carbon or alloy steel tools I do collect and have cleaned. Other than the aforementioned oxide stripping and residue.
 
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nathan,

Good luck with your axe. And sorry for harshing your buzz on this thread with an unnecessary distraction. My bad. I should know better.

That's what the Ignore button is for.

I'm out.
no big

I tried to find something in english and german, but had no luck, and I don't know any swedish wich might have been worth a shot

but I guess so long as I don't know any specifics about it, it's basically Schrödingers axe
it might be something rare and valuable, or just something an apprentice made

Boiled linseed oil works just fine as a permament rust protection
if you apply it on rust it might strip off during use, but it will take the rust along with it and leave a nice patina behind that is rust resistant
at least that's my observation from other tools, so if it's just for functionality it's well worth a shot
I think it has something to do with the fact that linseed oil is polymerized with oxygen, and rust is just iron and oxygen
maybe that's why the rust turns black from it?
 

2oolhound

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There are collectors and there are users. I think collectors may pay more dollars for something than a user but I can tell you as a user who's been collecting and using these types of tools since the early 70's I restore mine to the bright shiny look they had when they were 1st made. Try slicing through wood with a rusty axe. It will dirty your wooden project too.

I'd love to have that axe Nathan but I'd shine it up and want to cut some wood with it. And another thing I love my axes more than any collector.

I just read 5 pages in the "Show Your Bridgeport" thread and after seeing the amount of research and dedication the various collectors put into what they do I owe an apology for that statement I've just crossed out. I should never have made a comparison in the 1st place so, sorry all you collectors, you're doing an amazing job keeping these tools, their uses and their history alive. I applaud you!


The broad axes in the photos I posted above were mine when I built log buildings in the 70's. I painted them out of desperation as other log builders would try to steal them so it was my way of identifying them. (I had to remove it though because it smeared off on the logs). I eventually just dipped the end of the handle in a gallon can of paint to make this type of tool identifiable and kept a close eye on them.

Thanks for those last photos, I'm jealous ;).
 
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