Hi from reading the forums I am still unsure. my portable generator is neutraly bonded to the frame I ran the 4 prong twistlock nema #L14-30 to out side plugin then ran 4 seperate 10 ga wires two hots to 30 amp double breaker, white to left bar and green to right bar at 220 amp fuse panel. Neutral and ground bars are bonded. Is this ok or do I need to remove neutral to ground connector on the generator receptacle? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
portable generator
- Thread starter ronkesti
- Start date
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
The neutral and ground should only be bonded at your main disconnect point, which I assume is your main panel. Disconnect the bond bar at the generator itself.
nadogail
Well-known member
Welcome to the Forum from the shore of San Diego Bay.
Because the requirements for electrical installations vary from one location to another and you have not sent any pictures I can't comment on the Left Bar or the Right Bar. When your post count allows you to submit pictures, you can expect better answers to your questions.
Because the requirements for electrical installations vary from one location to another and you have not sent any pictures I can't comment on the Left Bar or the Right Bar. When your post count allows you to submit pictures, you can expect better answers to your questions.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
you need to remove it if youre in the US and connected to a house main service panel.
If you disconnect the generator from the house and use it as a standalone power source, then you need to reconnect the neutral to ground bonding so breakers on the generator can clear fault current.
Thanks That's what I suspected but wasn't sure
Sorry I wasn't clearer I was talking about the bars in my breaker panel where white wires go to the left bar and green to the right side.
I was told that I could remove the ground wire at the breaker panel and that would achieve the same thing. What do you think
walta
Well-known member
Please tell us about what you are using for an interlock to prevent the generator and grid power from being connected at the same time?
When you say the generator to an “outside plugin” is that something likes a dryer outlet or it a power inlet socket?
Walta
When you say the generator to an “outside plugin” is that something likes a dryer outlet or it a power inlet socket?
Walta
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Stuart in MN
Well-known member
No. Don't make any changes in the breaker panel.
AP514
Well-known member
SAY WHAT ??
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
umm what? who told you this? thats a no no....
The outdoor plug in is a female 4 prong twistlock nema #L14-30 inside a weather proof housing which i plug the gen into. The interlock is on the fuse panel which won't allow me to switch to the gen without turning off the main incoming power
Noltz
Well-known member
Good. That's exactly what you need. So the only additional modification is you need to unbond your neutral and ground within your generator. Wyliesdiesel can explain in detail why if you ask nicely. But in short the generator needs to be modified to be compliant with code. How that's done depends entirely on what generator you have. I found my generator had a bonding wire under the end-cap of the generator head. It was easily removed, but I added a switch so I could float (unbond) or bond my generator for use as a temporary whole-house generator or use it at a jobsite safely.
Ok won't do that then thanks would you know how to unbond a 9000watt predator Gen
510ebl
Well-known member
Specific model number of the generator?
It actually does not have a label or specify mod # it just says item 63970 EPA 111
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
would need a model number or manual to figure that out
Harbor freight's site only lists to 9000w generators. One is EPA III, the other is CARB. I think that actually is your model number. Here is the link for the 63970 EPA III. The electrical guys would be better at telling how your neutral is bonded.
https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/63970.pdf
Mine took all of 5 minutes to disconnect. It's right behind the alternator's end cover. Here is a video of how mine is done. But I think a lot of them are the same. The electrical guys will tell you if I'm wrong
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pattenp
Well-known member
Uh.. unless I'm missing something here are you saying the outside house socket is a female? That would require a cord with male plugs on both ends which is a safety issue. The connection device on the outside of house should be an inlet, not an outlet.
Noltz
Well-known member
I think this is just a typo, or OP is referring to the extension cord needed to plug into the L14-30. L14-30 is male. "R" is female if I'm googling it right.
your correct the outside socket is male
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Thats called an inlet
Noltz
Well-known member
Did you do any more reading on unbonding your generator? I'm guessing a lot of these bigger generators are built the same and I took some pictures of when I did mine. If it'll help you I can find a way to host them. I can't guarantee it'll help you but if you're already this far in then it's just a little detective work to get the generator all set for what may come.
AP514
Well-known member
To OP
not all gens are bonded in the same place. A wire Diagram will show you where yours is connected. Most are at the GEN. HEAD others at the 120 volt outlets.
There are several threads on here about Unbonding Generators. Also several threads on how to make a Switch for your Generator so you can unbond it and switch to bond for the Jobsite....
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/unbond-the-generator-diagram.466775/#post-8784651
NOLTZ did a great Switch Mod on his generator. That was so awesome I had to do one on mine...I think the pic's are gone but some good Info...
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...conversion-check-my-work.466583/#post-8781096
not all gens are bonded in the same place. A wire Diagram will show you where yours is connected. Most are at the GEN. HEAD others at the 120 volt outlets.
There are several threads on here about Unbonding Generators. Also several threads on how to make a Switch for your Generator so you can unbond it and switch to bond for the Jobsite....
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/unbond-the-generator-diagram.466775/#post-8784651
NOLTZ did a great Switch Mod on his generator. That was so awesome I had to do one on mine...I think the pic's are gone but some good Info...
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...conversion-check-my-work.466583/#post-8781096
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I wish Noltz would fix his pictures. I would have liked to see it. Noltz, are you listening?
AP514
Well-known member
I think what NOLTZ did was (like shown in the Video above)...he removed the white wire from the Ground Stud(on Gen Head).
Instead of wrapping eyelet end with tap he cut it off. Stripped and Spliced another wire to the end sending the wire to a switch located on the control panel. Then ran a second wire from the Switch back to the Ground Stud where it was originally mounted.
This gives you the option of having the generator Unbonded when hooked up to the house. Or Bonded when you are out on the jobsite.
A Placard(like mine) lets all know what the switch position does. Unbonded or Bonded
Instead of wrapping eyelet end with tap he cut it off. Stripped and Spliced another wire to the end sending the wire to a switch located on the control panel. Then ran a second wire from the Switch back to the Ground Stud where it was originally mounted.
This gives you the option of having the generator Unbonded when hooked up to the house. Or Bonded when you are out on the jobsite.
A Placard(like mine) lets all know what the switch position does. Unbonded or Bonded