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ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

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zmotorsports

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While I was waiting on the parts for the Dodge to show up the other night I also started the post season service on my Toro ZTR mower.

Pulled the deck out from under the mower to clean. WOW, did it ever need a good cleaning. I'll also touch up the edges of the blades and balance them while I have the deck out.
ope1.jpg

While the oil was draining I figured I would address one thing that bugs the **** out of me when mowing. For whatever reason Toro used a spacer in their front caster wheels that is about .100" wider than the wheel assembly. This allows the wheel to "slap" back and forth in the mounting bracket when turning and it drives me up a freakin' wall. Seeing as how I have had this mower for 4 seasons now you'd think I would have addressed it before but I haven't. Well the other night while draining the oil and recording my hour meter and date in my service records I remembered it and wanted to address it before spring.

I dropped the front caster tires out of the mounts and did some measuring. At first I thought I could merely cut down the center sleeve to within a few thousands of the hub width but then I figured it would pull the bracket in at an angle and not sit squarely on the hub. Next best option was to machine a spacer to be few thousands less than the overall length of the sleeve less the hub.

ope2.jpg

Grabbed a small drop of 6061 aluminum out of my drawer that was about 1.5" diameter and chucked it in the 6-jaw. Bored to the diameter of the sleeve which was .750" and after all of my measuring I determined that the difference between the hub and the sleeve was about .105" so I parted off the new spacer at .095" to allow free spinning and no binding of the front tires/wheels.
ope3.jpg

ope4.jpg

The spacer ended up being a very slight press fit onto the sleeve. This wasn't planned per se but worked out perfect as it allowed everything to be held together while installing the tire/wheel assembly without having to chase the spacer around.
ope5.jpg

Front tires/wheels installed and they spin free with a very, very slight clearance.
ope6.jpg


That should prevent that violent slap sound as the wheel now cannot flop side to side in the mount (big sigh of relief). :D
 
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purplezr2

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I didn't work in the shop Saturday or Sunday. Not that I was trying to avoid it, but after working for a while on Friday night until the wife arrived home from work I was able to get a few things done then Saturday we filled up the coffee mugs, double checked the tire pressures on the Jeep and headed off for a nice Saturday drive. Ended up putting a couple hundred miles on the Jeep sightseeing up around the canyons to the east of us and ended up in Evanston, WY. We saw some deer, elk and a moose during our drive.

Thanks for looking.

If you are looking for a good meal in Evanston, check out a place downtown called Bon Rico, amazing steaks. Think you need a reservation, but pretty easy to get one. Surprisingly the Best Western also has pretty good food. Spent about 9 weeks of my life back in 2018 in Evanston for work.
 
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zmotorsports

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If you are looking for a good meal in Evanston, check out a place downtown called Bon Rico, amazing steaks. Think you need a reservation, but pretty easy to get one. Surprisingly the Best Western also has pretty good food. Spent about 9 weeks of my life back in 2018 in Evanston for work.

Awesome. Thanks for the info. We may have to try that. Evanston is not someplace we usually stop at when we travel because it is so close we usually just blast right on past on I-80 but seeing as how we were just driving around last weekend we stopped off there as a turn-around point and so the wife could take a bathroom break. Damn small bladders. I guess that's why we generally travel in our coach so we don't have to stop for such things. :unsure:

I may have to suggest that to the wife and we made it a destination one day while out for a drive.

Thank you.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, they need that part of the mower to wear out, so they can sell new mowers or parts :ROFLMAO:

Maybe there is something to that Marc. All I know is that sound drives me up a wall and I am ashamed it took me four seasons to actually correct it. Now it should be smooth mowing this year with no annoying sounds, just the ones in my head.:headscrat
 
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zmotorsports

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Owner of that Dodge is going to be happy.

He just left with it and sure seemed happy with it. He tried to give more than the bill was but I told him to keep it as I was pleased with what I made off of it. I told him to hold onto it and put it towards the next job. He just laughed and said he would definitely be back.
 
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zmotorsports

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After another long week of work the wife and I wanted to take off for another drive on Saturday. My son and DIL expressed that they would like to go so we made it a family day. :love:

Friday afternoon I stopped by and gave the Jeep a quick wash.

In the background you can see my neighbor is just arriving home in their 2014 Tiffin Phaeton 40' coach. They have been down to Havasu, NV hanging out for the past couple of weeks.
jeep1.jpg

jeep2.jpg

We started our day off by stopping by River Burger in Morgan, UT for lunch.
jeep3.jpg

As we left Morgan we headed up the next canyon over to East Canyon.
jeep4.jpg

We saw a LOT of deer throughout the day but most were a couple here and there. This herd we saw just as we were approaching the town of Hoytsville, UT in a field alongside the highway.
jeep5.jpg

jeep6.jpg

Thanks for looking.
 
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zmotorsports

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Sounds like a good day Mike! I spent part of Saturday teaching the oldest son to push snow on the tractor.

It was an awesome day Marc. Wish we could have aired down the tires and gotten off-road somewhere but at least got to hang out with our son and DIL even if it was just highway pounding. I think we need to do more weekend playing and not work so much. :bounce:
 
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zmotorsports

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My son brought his Jeep over last night to service it and ******* the lift so I thought I would finish up the post season service on my Toro Timecutter ZTR mower.

I started by cleaning the deck and sharpening/balancing the blades. Then I moved on to change the oil filter and add the oil to the engine.
ope1.jpg

After putting the deck back under the chassis I remembered that when I was mowing towards the end of the season this past year I noticed that when I would go around the kidney out front and on the second pass there would be a definitive line around from the first pass. This told me that the deck must not have been level and one side was cutting lower than the other. I had checked my tire pressures but they were spot on so last night I decided to measure the deck and side to side. I found that there was approx. 1/4" difference between the two sides so I sought out how to adjust that. On the side there is an adjustment to match up the distance off the ground from side to side.
ope2.jpg

Mower completed and parked back in the garage.
ope3.jpg

After parking I removed the battery and put it in the shop to keep it near the charger so I can throw the charger on it from time to time until it is that time of year to start mowing again.
ope4.jpg

Thanks for looking.
 

jbmatth

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Mike,
I finished mine as well last night, well done as per your usual and when mowing season starts you'll be ready. Now to just get through this season of cold and white ****.

JB
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike,
Maybe it's time to consider adding a second lift so you can work side by side with your son. Just think, when the grandbabies start coming, you can train them up together on all things mechanical!..... :ROFLMAO:

Mark, my son and I actually discussed adding a second lift the other day while we were out and about playing. There are times it would be nice but then those are few and far between so I will just be happy with the one and the open space I have in the other bay by not having another one taking up the space. I've been busy as hell lately doing side jobs but like I reminded my son, this is just during this time of year when my wife and I are not traveling. I have to keep busy and making extra money now doing side work is fine but I don't want to be this busy during the warmer months when I want to enjoy my yardwork and traveling.
 
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zmotorsports

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Nice to get out for a little drive. Son's jeep looks awesome with those bumpers out in the wild. Really did a nice job on them.

Thanks Matt. It did turn out pretty nice. We have a couple of small rust spots to repair on it before spring and now he's talking about doing some custom work or mods to his truck so I'm not sure what we're getting in to in the near future with that. He just can't leave things alone. :unsure:
 

lilscorpion

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Thanks Matt. It did turn out pretty nice. We have a couple of small rust spots to repair on it before spring and now he's talking about doing some custom work or mods to his truck so I'm not sure what we're getting in to in the near future with that. He just can't leave things alone. :unsure:
It's a jeep thing. LOL
 
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red94chev

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My dad got one of these movable 4 post lifts, it's pretty awesome to be able to slide it around but it's a serious space hog the rest of the time. He parks his hotrod truck on though so that's not really an issue for him.

 

LXCam

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I’m at a crossroad on getting a second lift. As you I’ve got that monster 4 poster which I’m perfectly fine with but there has definitely been many times a two post would make my life easier. And right now I’ve got a lead on a 11klb wheeltronic that still looks almost new for a great price but I just can’t justify losing the space in my current shop.
 
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zmotorsports

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I’m at a crossroad on getting a second lift. As you I’ve got that monster 4 poster which I’m perfectly fine with but there has definitely been many times a two post would make my life easier. And right now I’ve got a lead on a 11klb wheeltronic that still looks almost new for a great price but I just can’t justify losing the space in my current shop.

That's pretty much where I'm at Cam. Although mine is already a 2-post lift and it gets used a lot I can't bring myself to give up anymore floor space for another lift. Someday I would like to build another street rod or musclecar and having it on a lift is not really conducive for a full on build but I would need the floor space to have it on jack stands and don't want to have to work around a lift at that point.
 

ronjon1190

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I have a love hate relationship with my two post. It is invaluable when I need it. It is a giant waste of space when I don't. My shop is 26x40, but with shelves and work benches and the woodstove, it is basically throttled down to a tandem one car garage. I can only fit 2 cars in if one is parked through the lift. The shop is also a do all space for me, mechanical shop, construction shop, party spot etc. The lift is great for the maybe 30-40 days a year I put something on it, but the other 330 or so I almost wish I had open floor space!
 
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zmotorsports

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I have a love hate relationship with my two post. It is invaluable when I need it. It is a giant waste of space when I don't. My shop is 26x40, but with shelves and work benches and the woodstove, it is basically throttled down to a tandem one car garage. I can only fit 2 cars in if one is parked through the lift. The shop is also a do all space for me, mechanical shop, construction shop, party spot etc. The lift is great for the maybe 30-40 days a year I put something on it, but the other 330 or so I almost wish I had open floor space!

That is exactly where I was with my last shop that measured 34'x34'. With the machining/fabrication equipment and the 2-post lift it was basically restricted to a one car shop with space for a couple of motorcycles, nothing more. Also why I cringed at the thought of a long term project as it would completely tie up my shop.

Now that I have much more room I don't ever recall my 2-post being in the way as I have plenty of space between it and the workbenches plus I have a space behind the lift and another bay in which to work out of so plenty of room in my new shop.
 

DennisK

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I built a new shop after I closed down my repair shop and move to a new area, I set one 7000lbs 2post up and the other has sat against the wall for 20 plus years in a 40x64 shop. Still haven't found a need for it. I need more room for a dualled up tractor, an JD 8400 will just fit the front over the hoist center, I can fit 3 in at one time and still work around.
 
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zmotorsports

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Next project.....

Client dropped off his 2002 2500 Silverado Duramax last night and we talked out the plan. Originally when he called me a couple of months ago it was to install a leveling kit. I suggested he looked at the Cognito leveling components as I have had very good results using them and they are quality components. He had ordered the parts and they finally arrived this past weekend.

As we were discussing the plan it morphed into doing a FASS system, exhaust system and he asked that I do an oil change while it was on the lift. Sure. Pretty clean truck overall and he is the second owner. He just purchased it last fall from a local businessman who owned a marine shop that passed away and has been well cared for. Truck has 188k on the clock with only a few minor dings on the body. He also just had the front seats re-upholstered and they turned out great.

Stay tuned for the upgrades.....


gm1.jpg

gm2.jpg
 

Seagoon

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If you have time , please can you do a bit of explanation because we don't have these big pickups on this side of the Atlantic .
I can guess what a levelling kit does, but why do you need it?
And what is a FASS system and what does it do?
TIA.
 
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zmotorsports

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If you have time , please can you do a bit of explanation because we don't have these big pickups on this side of the Atlantic .
I can guess what a levelling kit does, but why do you need it?
And what is a FASS system and what does it do?
TIA.


Sorry. Let me see if I can explain the why behind the work I am about to perform.

These GM trucks have a "rake" to them from the factory where the front end is slightly lower than the rear. Most all manufacturers do this these days as it helps with the fuel economy and CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) ratings. That results in not only a terrible look, more of a personal taste or preference thing, but it also negates the ability to run slightly larger tires on the front because when you turn and hit a bump the tires can catch either the inner wheelwell at the rear or the front bumper valance at the front. As a personal taste we like to run slightly larger tires to fill the wheel openings as with stock tires/wheels, the fronts seem to be about right but the rear wheel well openings look out of proportion with stock tires and big gaps between the wheel openings. By putting slightly larger tires on these trucks it fills up the rear wheel openings slightly better creating a better look but then the turning issues mentioned above are created in the front.

These GMT800 chassis trucks use a torsion bar front suspension so many people merely crank up the torque on the keys which in turn raises the front end up slightly. However, this does a couple of things that are detrimental to ride and longevity of components. By merely cranking up the torque on the torsion bars the ride is basically nearly on the upper travel limits which remove nearly all of the uptravel of the suspension creating a rather harsh ride even on the smooth interstates that have small road undulations. These suspension components continually are up against a hard stop when the suspension is trying to droop out even slightly going down the road. The other issue is with the upper ball joint. When the torsion bars are cranked up it moves the upper ball joint from what is called a "neutral" position and preloads it to the upper limit. Each time the suspension is drooping out not only is it contacting the upper stop but it is also putting the ball joint at the far end of its travel therefore increasing wear and decreasing its life span.

There are also two additional issues with the front end design of these GMT800 chassis. One is the anemic size of the tie rod ends which in extreme conditions can cause these to bend and create an undriveable condition due to toe-in. The other is the center link of the steering is mounted in single shear from the pitman arm to the idler. When cycling through the steering range from left to right these center links "flop" fore and aft as the weight of the center link is thrown off center with each direction cycle. This accelerates wear tremendously.

There are a multitude of aftermarket companies that work to address these issues but I have found that none have done it better than Cognito. Cognito offers various "stages" of these kits or you can purchase them each individually to address any one area of concern. This owner upon my recommendation chose to address all of the issues at one time and therefore create a very durable and reliable front end for his GMT800 chassis.

The components are new keys for the torsion bars which negates having to have the OEM keys cranked to the maximum to get the proper preload on the torsion bars in which to increase the ride height. These new keys allow the setting to be more in the middle and still allow some adjustability.

The other main component of this kit is the upper control arms. These new upper control arms still allow full adjustability through the OEM cam style adjusters at the frame end but they have angled the ball joint mount to a more neutral position. This will allow the ball joint to be in the middle of its range when sitting at ride height and allow proper up-travel and down-travel for a smooth ride and no additional wear than normal to the ball joint.

This owner also chose to address the weak tie rods by ordering their heavy duty tie rods as well as the center link supports which comes with brackets in which put the center link mounting points at the pitman arm and the idler arm in double shear. This prevents the center link from "flopping" fore and aft with each turn of the steering and prolong the life of the OEM components.

That pretty much covers the GMT800 front suspension and steering upgrades.

As for the FASS system, this stands for Fuel and Air Separation System. The GM Duramax diesel engine is the only one of the "Big 3" that does not have a lift pump in the fuel system. A lift pump supplies a steady supply of fuel to the injection pump where the high pressure takes place. The Isuzu diesel (Duramax) relies on creating an less than atmospheric style of fuel delivery from the tank to the injection pump, think vacuum. It draws this fuel through the fuel lines which also incorporates multiple fittings and connections as well as the fuel tank module, all of which can over time begin to allow air into the fuel system. By design all diesel fuel systems are designed to deal with a small or "normal" amount of entrained air in the fuel system, however, when more air is introduced into the fuel system than it was designed to contend with bad things begin to happen. With the high pressure these fuel systems are operating at this air can begin to cavitate in the high pressure pump. This cavitation causes damage by the small air bubbles collapsing under pressure and therefore pulling material from the pump body and gerotor pump assembly at the same time destroying the pumps and injectors from the inside.

By adding a FASS (or Airdog) lift pump system to these engines it provides a steady fuel supply to the injection pump to avoid this cavitation as well as removes any entrained air in the system from the start. An added benefit to the FASS system is that it offers fuel "polishing" by returning any unused fuel back to the tank AFTER it has gone through the fuel filters. This by design is continually filtering or "polishing" the diesel fuel to ensure not only steady flow to the injection pump but as clean as fuel as possible.

I know that was a lengthy answer but I hope it helps explain the why behind it.

Thank you for following along and I hope this was informative.
 

Seagoon

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Thank you Mike for a very informative and detailed answer. It was pitched just right so that I didn't feel like an idiot for not knowing but it wasn't so technical that it went above my head. I think you could be very successful as a teacher if you wanted to go that direction.
Thanks for taking some of your valuable time. You have made me even more pleased that I follow your threads.
 

csp

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Pickups have left the manufacturers with a bit of a rake to them for decades. Our 1969 C20 has a rake as does my 97 F350. It's the nature of being a pickup and the ability to carry a load. Without some sort of a rake the rear end will be lower than the front with any appreciable weight in the bed or tongue weight from a trailer.
 

Pressingonward

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Great explanation Mike!

I may end up buying one of these trucks to haul a camper around with in the future...do you consider any of these upgrades mandatory (or highly recommended) on a stock truck? I don't care about looks, but don't want to break a tie rod in the middle of nowhere on a gravel forest service road with 3500-4000 lbs of camper and junk in the bed...
 
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zmotorsports

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Thank you Mike for a very informative and detailed answer. It was pitched just right so that I didn't feel like an idiot for not knowing but it wasn't so technical that it went above my head. I think you could be very successful as a teacher if you wanted to go that direction.
Thanks for taking some of your valuable time. You have made me even more pleased that I follow your threads.

You are very welcome and thank you for following along.
 
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zmotorsports

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Pickups have left the manufacturers with a bit of a rake to them for decades. Our 1969 C20 has a rake as does my 97 F350. It's the nature of being a pickup and the ability to carry a load. Without some sort of a rake the rear end will be lower than the front with any appreciable weight in the bed or tongue weight from a trailer.

Yes, that is also true but only in recent years have they been doing it for CAFE ratings. Even my Jeep had a nose dive rake for CAFE ratings. Some people like that look others do not whether towing/hauling or not.
 
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zmotorsports

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Great explanation Mike!

I may end up buying one of these trucks to haul a camper around with in the future...do you consider any of these upgrades mandatory (or highly recommended) on a stock truck? I don't care about looks, but don't want to break a tie rod in the middle of nowhere on a gravel forest service road with 3500-4000 lbs of camper and junk in the bed...

Thank you.

I wouldn't call it mandatory if you don't plan on running larger than stock tires and need the clearance in the front. Hauling a camper you will want that little bit of nose dive to compensate for the weight in the bed with the camper. The tie rods under normal driving conditions are not prone to just breaking. Most of the ones I've seen have been when pushing them off-road or idiots doing four wheel drive launches which puts a tremendous amount of force on the front ends. Especially combined with larger offset wheels. This seems to drive the front wheels in an arc and the driving forces inward at the front of the tire vs. a standard offset with the tires driving the vehicle straight with the contact point directly in line with the ball joints, think scrub radius but with negative effects of high driving force.
 

SilverJimmy

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Mike, looking for your opinion and maybe your advice on a couple things if possible. My wife and I just purchased a 2021 Rubicon Unlimited Extreme with the 3.6 E-Torque and 8 speed auto. We got it to flat tow it behind our 2006 GMC 3500 4x4 CrewCab Dually Duramax and Allison auto with our 2020 Arctic Fox 990 truck camper. After reading all you’ve said about the benefits of flat towing, I’m looking forward to being able to enjoy the freedom that having our Jeep with us on our adventures. I’ve done a bit of research on what I need to be safe flat towing, but I’m sure you’ve done volumes more. After all you’ve done and seen, and if you were starting with a clean slate, what gear would you get for what I’ve got? I’ve looked at a few tow bar setups and read up on the BrakeBuddy stuff, but this is very much not a subject I’ve ever studied and I really don’t want to make any expensive bad choices! And you’ll like this (probably not!) our new Jeep has the new hot setup for the windshield, Gorilla Glass! With less than 2000 miles on the clock, my wife and I traveled to Northern California for the Christmas holidays. Traveling home on Hwy 99 just outside of Bakersfield a truck must have kicked up a rock because we didn’t see it, but we sure heard it hit! While still driving we both couldn’t see any damage, so we figured it was a win for the monkey….
When we got home and were washing all the road grime and salt off and was polishing the windshield….1EAF5FE6-C9DA-4667-A3D7-797904450AA5.jpeg
It was a perfect hit, right on the edge! And then to add insult to injury, the damn rock also chipped the paint with the ricochet! Don’t think your chip repair kit would do any good on this edge crack, you can see it’s actually cracked under the Gorilla Glass layer. Wonder how much these cost. Probably won’t replace it till it gets bad as I’m sick thinking about the window guy coming at my baby with his knives and caulking gun! Thank you in advance for your input and knowledge of all things “JEEP”!
 

Snapped-off

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Have you seen the Kennedy in tank lift pump? It goes in place of the oem sending unit. I have an air dog on mine but I'd have probably tried that if they were out when I got mine. I hate the filters hanging off the frame.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, looking for your opinion and maybe your advice on a couple things if possible. My wife and I just purchased a 2021 Rubicon Unlimited Extreme with the 3.6 E-Torque and 8 speed auto. We got it to flat tow it behind our 2006 GMC 3500 4x4 CrewCab Dually Duramax and Allison auto with our 2020 Arctic Fox 990 truck camper. After reading all you’ve said about the benefits of flat towing, I’m looking forward to being able to enjoy the freedom that having our Jeep with us on our adventures. I’ve done a bit of research on what I need to be safe flat towing, but I’m sure you’ve done volumes more. After all you’ve done and seen, and if you were starting with a clean slate, what gear would you get for what I’ve got? I’ve looked at a few tow bar setups and read up on the BrakeBuddy stuff, but this is very much not a subject I’ve ever studied and I really don’t want to make any expensive bad choices! And you’ll like this (probably not!) our new Jeep has the new hot setup for the windshield, Gorilla Glass! With less than 2000 miles on the clock, my wife and I traveled to Northern California for the Christmas holidays. Traveling home on Hwy 99 just outside of Bakersfield a truck must have kicked up a rock because we didn’t see it, but we sure heard it hit! While still driving we both couldn’t see any damage, so we figured it was a win for the monkey….
When we got home and were washing all the road grime and salt off and was polishing the windshield….1EAF5FE6-C9DA-4667-A3D7-797904450AA5.jpeg
It was a perfect hit, right on the edge! And then to add insult to injury, the damn rock also chipped the paint with the ricochet! Don’t think your chip repair kit would do any good on this edge crack, you can see it’s actually cracked under the Gorilla Glass layer. Wonder how much these cost. Probably won’t replace it till it gets bad as I’m sick thinking about the window guy coming at my baby with his knives and caulking gun! Thank you in advance for your input and knowledge of all things “JEEP”!

First off, thank you very much for following along and for the vote of confidence. Sorry to hear about your windshield as rock chips in glass ****! I was fortunate my first windshield lasted over about 115k miles before one got it bad enough to crack beyond repair. I did have quite a few small chips that I was able to repair in all those miles and about ten years though so I shouldn't complain. When I had my windshield replaced last year I waffled on the Gorilla glass but in the end opted just to replace it with a good aftermarket windshield. I didn't even go back to the OEM with the little Jeep easter egg around the perimeter and so far I've been pleased.

Good for you setting up your Jeep to flat-tow. I think you will be happy with the choice and I hope it opens up the options for you as much as it has for us when traveling. I've hauled the Jeep and Harley in our enclosed trailer for many years as well and flat-towing is just so simple, quick and convenient that even though I miss my race trailer, I don't think I could go back. My wife and I were even talking the other night that our first long trip when we retire is a 3+ month long road trip to Alaska in the coach and she asked if the Jeep would be ok for that. I said hell yeah, that is what we built it for and we tow it everywhere else so why wouldn't we tow it to Alaska. That will probably be a 10k-12k mile trip but shouldn't be any different than a bunch of 1k-3k mile trips.

As for towing and braking setups I have had a few over the past 25+ years and over 200k miles now. My first towbar I fabricated in-house and made it to fold up on the front of the vehicle. That was with our first motorhome and our first Jeep, a 1991 Jeep Cherokee (XJ). We towed that for about 2-3 years before we sold it and upgraded to the 1996 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) in which I bought a Roadmaster Stowmaster towbar setup. This was the one that required a mounting plate for the front and the towbar folded down parallet to the front bumper. However, it stuck out about 10 inches in front of the bumper so when we started doing some off-road trails I would usually remove it and store it in the coach's storage compartment. I did not use an auxiliary braking system on the XJ but seeing as how the ZJ was heavier I wanted some supplemental braking capabilities seeing as how we travel in the western U.S. and over many mountain passes. I bought one of those box style that push against the seat and the brake pedal. Although it worked as advertised, I hated it. I hated the inconvenience of it and hated the bulkiness of it. We only used this setup for about 2 years and I had grown tired of it quickly.

Here is our second coach, first diesel pusher, and our 1996 Jeep ZJ during a road trip. This was with the factory front bumper and Roadmaster Stowmaster towbar setup. Not seen is the box style braking system on the driver's floorboard.
beaverjeep.jpg

After the second year and during the winter off-season I sold both the Roadmaster Stowmaster towbar as well as the Brake Buddy braking system. I fabricated a custom front bumper for the ZJ to allow a better approach angle as well as incorporate tow points into the bumper for flat-towing. I had also purchased another Roadmaster towbar but this was the Sterling aluminum towbar that mounted to the coach and the arms connected directly to the Jeep's front bumper. I also splurged and purchased the U.S. Gear's Unified Braking System. This was an electronic braking system that was tied in with the coach's signal but used the Jeep's braking system and an aux. vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the OE brake booster. It then used an electrical linear actuator to pull a cable that connected to the back of the brake pedal and proportionately braked the Jeep in relation to the coach. The linear actuator mounted under the driver's seat and was completely out of the way and out of sight.

I absolutely LOVED this setup. Both the bumper and supplemental braking system were clean and un-cluttered whether it was in use or daily driving. No need to remove the towbar when we traveled for off-roading because the towbar was mounted to the coach and when we returned home or just disconnected to go sight-seeing we didn't need to remove anything from the Jeep and store it, simply disconnect and go.

I carried that exact same setup over to our next Jeep and next coach over the following 15 years or so. I ran that exact setup in our current coach and current Jeep up until about 3 years ago when I did the LS swap. With our current 2011 Jeep Wrangler I built a custom towbar crossmember for the front of the Jeep to connect the Roadmaster towbar to and kept it low and back so as not to encroach into my approach angle for off-roading. I like this setup so much that when I started seeing some slight wear in the arms of the towbar I opted to rebuild it vs. replacing it, even after all those years and miles of use. At the time of reconfiguring our current Jeep when I added the LS engine I knew it had gained some weight over the years and was pushing the limits of the Sterling 6k pound towbar even though it gave no signs of any issues. I sold the Roadmaster Sterling towbar and the U.S. Gear Unified Braking System to a fellow Jeep club member who had just purchased his first motorhome and was looking for a setup to flat-tow his 2004 Jeep TJ.

At this point I purchased another Roadmaster towbar, the Nighthawk 8k pound setup. The first year I towed the Jeep without a supplemental braking system because I could not make up my mind on which one to go with even after much research. IT was at this time I kicked myself for selling the U.S. Gear Unified Braking System as they had quit manufacturing it by now. I sold it because it had a small vacuum pump that mounted in the engine bay and I wanted to clean up the engine bay and didn't want that pump. After deciding on a supplemental braking system I discovered that I still have to mount items in the engine bay so I should have just kept the Unified Braking System.

I now have the Demco Air Force-One braking system that uses the coach's air brake system to provide proportional braking to the Jeep. It work great but does require air brakes on the tow vehicle.

Here is our current setup as of last year.
Bryce8.JPG

We have friends who have the Roadmaster as well as Demco and Blue Ox towbars. I have seen on a couple of RV forums over the past couple of years about some Blue Ox failures, some quite devastating. I'm not certain as to the exact cause of these failures but it still gives me pause to recommend them. I do like the quick release front connection points of the Blue Ox setup however.

I have absolutely nothing bad to say about the Roadmaster towbars in all of the miles I have used them and don't have enough personal experience with the Demco to say one way or the other.

As for supplemental braking systems I have used the Brake Buddy, Unified Braking System, Air Force-One and have installed a couple of the M&G setups in other Jeeps. I really like the M&G setup and the Air Force-One but they require air brakes on the tow vehicle which won't work for your setup. You could use a Brake Buddy style if you are ok with the box in the front floorboard area of the Jeep but then storing it when you get to your destination is a PITA. Personally, I would see if you could find a used U.S. Gear Unified Braking System somewhere as that was probably the best system I have ever ran.

Other than that I don't have much personal experience with some of the newer ones out currently.

Sorry for lengthy history of our setup but hope some of it was helpful to assist you in making a decision based off what I liked and didn't like about each.
 
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zmotorsports

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Messages
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Have you seen the Kennedy in tank lift pump? It goes in place of the oem sending unit. I have an air dog on mine but I'd have probably tried that if they were out when I got mine. I hate the filters hanging off the frame.

I have no experience with the Kennedy in-tank setup. I've researched them and like the design from a simplicity standpoint but the one thing I really like about the FASS is the fuel polishing ability in addition to the positive pressure to the injection pump. Like you I don't particularly care for the pump and filters hanging down from the frame but I like the fuel polishing aspect more so I can live with seeing the filters. My son on the other hand loves the look of the pump and filters along the frame but I prefer mods to be hidden more in plain sight than in your face.

Thanks for the info and for following along.
 
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