Automatic centre punch shopping for .
- Thread starter GophersGarage
- Start date
marak
Well-known member
I went with the imported General version from Harry's:
https://www.harryepstein.com/professional-automatic-center-punch.html
I have several non automatic. Also have an older USA made Starrett automatic that I use when machining.
But, I am just a hobbyist.
https://www.harryepstein.com/professional-automatic-center-punch.html
I have several non automatic. Also have an older USA made Starrett automatic that I use when machining.
But, I am just a hobbyist.
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OP
GophersGarage
Well-known member
I have many hammer style but I want automatic now but good quality
I have a couple Starrett 818's. I prefer the lighter aluminum body of the 818 over their steel bodied models, and being aluminum I don't have to worry about oiling/surface rust from my fingers handling them regularly either. I now have three, all purchased used from garage sales. Instead of selling off one or two of them, I set one for light hit power (plastics, fiberglass, mdf), one for medium (aluminum, brass, copper, thinner sheet metals), and one for hard hits (thicker steel). I grab the one I need so I never have to adjust the punch power for the material.
In the past I have used General No. 77, No. 79, Craftsman 40541, and 40542 center punches and they worked fine too. They are good used vintage options if you are trying to keep the cost down.
In the past I have used General No. 77, No. 79, Craftsman 40541, and 40542 center punches and they worked fine too. They are good used vintage options if you are trying to keep the cost down.
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I have a German manufactured Rennsteig, bought at Amazon. The high force 250N version is $42.
www.rennsteig.us
Adjustable Automatic Center Punch with hand guard
Request quote and/or buying option available. Impact strength is adjusted by rotation of the knurl Spring loaded self striking mechanism Activated by downw...
www.rennsteig.us
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have an inexpensive import one that I've had for about 15 years or so. It works ok and I have had to touch up the point a few times. I also have a relatively new Starrett 18C that I've been using for the past couple of years now and I freakin' love that thing. There is definitely a quality difference between them.
I generally follow up these spring loaded center punches with a good smack with a center punch and hammer before going to the drill just to give a slightly larger divot for the drill bit to engage with.
I generally follow up these spring loaded center punches with a good smack with a center punch and hammer before going to the drill just to give a slightly larger divot for the drill bit to engage with.
OP
GophersGarage
Well-known member
I see so the letters means power of the punch?
I wonder what would be good for general all around work?
I wonder what would be good for general all around work?
ptgarcia
Well-known member
I love my Starrett 18AA. It just feels like quality in my hand. If I need a larger center punch, even though they are insanely expensive, I will buy a Starrett.
scooby074
Well-known member
Starrett High power automatic one for me to mark the exact center, Then I follow up with a wider Starrett (square body) hand punch hit with a hammer to make a proper divot.
That unit looks very slick. I'm tempted. $58 and change here in Canada -I have a German manufactured Rennsteig, bought at Amazon. The high force 250N version is $42.
Adjustable Automatic Center Punch with hand guard
Request quote and/or buying option available. Impact strength is adjusted by rotation of the knurl Spring loaded self striking mechanism Activated by downw...
Hi Jradm.
I am interested as well. Please send me the link. Thank you.
Me, if I have to locate to layout lines then it is a manual ***** punch followed by a proper center punch. I have a few Starrett spring punches that I will use for coarse work but most times just a center punch and hammer for me.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
I was on the same hunt
www.garagejournal.com
Ended up with both a Starrett 18C and a very nice Fowler, both worth every penny
Best automatic center punch?
Ive been on a quest to find a great auto center punch. I primarily work with mild steel, but find myself working aluminum, stainless, and other metals. Nothing to exotic, and some woods. On a heavy fab day I can center punch 100+ times easy. So finding a good, reliable, durable, and strong...
www.garagejournal.com
Ended up with both a Starrett 18C and a very nice Fowler, both worth every penny
RTM
Well-known member
I've got a manual punch for marking center, than a couple of Starrett 18A and 18b, bought used, and some Snappy spring punches, depending on where I am working, for making something big enough to hit with the drill.
Hadn't thought about setting the springs differently like Tools4Me said, wise choice
Hadn't thought about setting the springs differently like Tools4Me said, wise choice
Thank you
Straightgrain
Well-known member
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Whatever you do don't buy Starrett. It's like heroin. First you buy a center punch, then a micrometer, then a dial indicator before long you're in the poor house. GOD, I LOVE THEIR STUFF!
txvwnut
Well-known member
I’ve got a Central tools one and wish it hit a little harder. One of these days I’ll get a Starrett so I can compare. I do have a HF one and it won’t make a dent in a coke can.
ZRX61
Well-known member
I have a Starrett somewhere, but I use my Horrible Fright version.
Starrett does punches (all types) and tap handles really well; these items are worth the $ IMO. I think that's the only Starrett stuff I have except for a 6" metal ruler I inherited
Edit- I have the 18A and C. Sometimes the lighter duty A is what you want- like on sheet metal. IIRC I didn't get the AA after reading the reviews saying it had almost no force
Edit- I have the 18A and C. Sometimes the lighter duty A is what you want- like on sheet metal. IIRC I didn't get the AA after reading the reviews saying it had almost no force
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My issue wasnt so much with how hard it hit
my cheapo punches would glitch and not reload the pin
I would have to mash the tip, rebuild, etc... very frustrating for what should be a fraction of a sec operation done dozens of times
my cheapo punches would glitch and not reload the pin
I would have to mash the tip, rebuild, etc... very frustrating for what should be a fraction of a sec operation done dozens of times
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Gonna vote AGAINST starrett. My 18c is, and has been since day 1, garbage. My smaller 18a is good and reliable, but the 18c has almost a 100% failure to strike issue. I've tried cleaning, greases, oils, 100% dry inside, nothing makes it functional. Slow push, fast push, same deal. I can fiddle with it and make it hit once, but then it's right back where it was. It also only functions at the lowest possible tension, anything above that has literally never resulted in function.
IndyGarage
Well-known member
I use a Starrett - the aluminum body one - used it about 20 times the other day.
A couple years ago I saw a video on an optical center punch. I ended up buying one and it's really cool. I've only had reason to use it a couple times. If you really need to have precision it's a great product.
A couple years ago I saw a video on an optical center punch. I ended up buying one and it's really cool. I've only had reason to use it a couple times. If you really need to have precision it's a great product.
I have the Starrett 18C which is ok for really hard materials, but too large imho for wood or softer metals. Don't get me wrong, it works just fine, but I am likely going to buy an 18AA if I ever come across one for a "daily driver".
just as a FYI all you have to do is loosen the end cap to reduce the spring pressure.
RTM
Well-known member
One of my used ones was like that. Found the patent, figured out what the trip mechanism was, and cleaned that up specifically, and it’s been fine since. Unfortunately, I forget what the trick was, but it wasn’t obvious til I looked at the patent. HTH
I bought the 18c and works great but is little hard to push sometimes if in an awkward location. It has slid out on me when trying to press down on more than one occasion. It seems that it is never where I last adjusted it and I forget to check before using.
I got an 18a and it is much easier to push down on. I have only used the 18a a few times so far but I don’t think 18c will need to be used very much anymore.
I got an 18a and it is much easier to push down on. I have only used the 18a a few times so far but I don’t think 18c will need to be used very much anymore.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
If an auto punch won't 'reolad' just rap the top end on the bench, vise, whatever and it will reload.
bob15
Well-known member
Starrett 18C.
This exactly what im trying to avoid
I have days where im punching 100's of holes
Yeah I use that feature frequently, just seems overkill for softer work. But...I have yet to try the 18AA