Hi. Just moved into a newly built house and had a local chamberlain installer put in a B2405 opener. He also lubed some of the parts. He mentioned that the door itself will hopefully quiet down over time. That was two weeks ago - the motor is quiet but I'm *really* noticing the noise the door itself makes when opening and closing. I do not have a reference point of what a quiet door sounds like - does this recording sound normal? Seems like its way too loud to me. Does anyone know what can I ask the builder to do to make it quieter? They are really good about coming out to fix anything I ask them to. Thanks! Here is a link to a video I made of it opening and closing. https://streamable.com/oq1ksi
looking for feedback on garage door noise
- Thread starter johnoh
- Start date
it looks like an un-insulated door. I suspect the metal panels are amplifying the noise . I think you got what you got .
FredWanaker
Well-known member
pull the red lever, allowing the door to go up and down manually. It should balance somewhere between 1/3 the way up and 1/2 the way up. After checking that, roll it up and down by hand slowly a few times to be sure none of the hinges are binding. You should feel them if they are. Also some one can stand by the door and maybe tell if some of the hinges are noisier than others. I'd tell you to put their hand on a panel when you MANUALLY move it up and down if it clicks to feel which hinge(s) are noisiest, but you can crush a hand if it gets caught in between sections so if you do that be VERY careful and go slow.
pattenp
Well-known member
That's an insulated door. Looks like what I have and mine doesn't make all that popping noise. Try oiling the panel hinges if not already oiled.
Thanks all. I unlatched it and slowly moved it up and down manually. It balances about 1/3 of the way up, moves up and down very smoothly, the rollers glide smoothly in the rails, but wow there are these loud popping sounds coming from what appears to be the panels. I could not tell if the hinges were binding or not, if they were their sound is obviously being amplified by the panels. When the sound happens the door is just a bit harder to move right at the same time, but not much. The sound occurs at the same points when being raised or lowered. I made another video, moving it up and down just a few inches at a time around one of the noisy spots. I will definitely send these videos to the builder and have him send a guy out to try and figure it out, but am also happy to keep trying to troubleshoot in the meantime if anyone has further thoughts. Am not really sure how to oil the hinges if that's something to try. Thanks again. https://streamable.com/9z9xv0
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here are a few stills
Attachments
jstroede
Well-known member
That first picture looks like the hinge is twisted and it appears to have a wear mark forming. That should not be happening.
excellent, thanks for pointing that out. I can see it is twisted but what does a wear mark look like? The black stuff appears to be grease.
nadogail
Well-known member
The WD-40 company makes a product, Garage Door Lubricant I suggest you use it on our hinges and rollers.
The WD-40 we have grown to love for many reasons is not a lubricant. It is a Water Displacer
The WD-40 we have grown to love for many reasons is not a lubricant. It is a Water Displacer
I'm searching and see that Blaster and 3-in-1 both make a product called garage door lubricant, but do not see one made by wd-40. Do you mean wd-40's lithium grease product? Here are all their products. https://www.wd40.com/products/
I agree, that second video.... somethings not lined up right
I have Wayne Dalton insulated doors on my shop. One 16ft, one 14ft wide. They are 22 yrs old and they still used the traditional hinges. If those are a "New" style it may be possible they were not installed correctly or in the proper places. Doesn't look like they are all the same.
jstroede
Well-known member
The black mark looks like a wear mark since it is in such a small area. Maybe not.
Now that I look at it, it looks like most of the hinges are twisted.
I would definitely contact the installer. There is a lot going on on that door, and with living in what I am assuming is south florida, you want it to be right.
John
yeah, that one hinge is definitely not lined up horizontally and it looks like a couple other might not be either. I would go thru ALL HINGES and TRACK WHEEL mounts to make sure everything is lined up the way it should be.
I don't think the door lift installer knows anything about garage doors, he just installs lifts because, how hard can it be? brand new houses are infamous for fast build/no quality checks. even my upscale home built in the early 80's had some things done wrong I have been fixing for the last few years (mortar for a chimney crown when it should have been concrete, punched mesh stapled to the wall for holding thinset in bathroom showers and tub areas, etc)
I don't think the door lift installer knows anything about garage doors, he just installs lifts because, how hard can it be? brand new houses are infamous for fast build/no quality checks. even my upscale home built in the early 80's had some things done wrong I have been fixing for the last few years (mortar for a chimney crown when it should have been concrete, punched mesh stapled to the wall for holding thinset in bathroom showers and tub areas, etc)
Was your house a single built home or was it built in a development where the same builder built them all?
I have a friend who repairs a lot of door parts in the many developments here within the first 6 months to a year of the house being occupied, because the big builder cheaps out on parts during contruction.
I have a friend who repairs a lot of door parts in the many developments here within the first 6 months to a year of the house being occupied, because the big builder cheaps out on parts during contruction.
One builder for the whole development.
FredWanaker
Well-known member
the hinges appear cocked, and binding. They should not bind like they are. Eventually fatigue cracks will follow. Right now I would call him and show him the binding manually so he can see the problem in slow motion. Then depending what he does next will tell you what you need to do next. The door should operate smoothly without binding.
Wayne dalton - probably a 9100. The hinges are pre-installed from the factory - and often are very much like that. But they've got generally enough movement to allow 10deg or so misalignment.
What's the outside face look like? is there any creasing near the rabbets (where the 2 sections meet)?
Just to expand on that - the popping in my experience - was often due to some rough handling on the rabbets, banged while loaded/unloaded off the truck - or strap damage when being hauled to site.
this series of door - you could get a little bend on the rabbet (very top triangle) and you'd get that pop. Usually just some minor massaging by an installer can get it running smooth again.
What's the outside face look like? is there any creasing near the rabbets (where the 2 sections meet)?
Just to expand on that - the popping in my experience - was often due to some rough handling on the rabbets, banged while loaded/unloaded off the truck - or strap damage when being hauled to site.
this series of door - you could get a little bend on the rabbet (very top triangle) and you'd get that pop. Usually just some minor massaging by an installer can get it running smooth again.
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thanks that's good to know. Am waiting on the builder to respond to my email right now, I'll review this with whomever he sends out to take a look at my door.Wayne dalton - probably a 9100. The hinges are pre-installed from the factory - and often are very much like that. But they've got generally enough movement to allow 10deg or so misalignment.
What's the outside face look like? is there any creasing near the rabbets (where the 2 sections meet)?
Just to expand on that - the popping in my experience - was often due to some rough handling on the rabbets, banged while loaded/unloaded off the truck - or strap damage when being hauled to site.
this series of door - you could get a little bend on the rabbet (very top triangle) and you'd get that pop. Usually just some minor massaging by an installer can get it running smooth again.
vrinner
Well-known member
The garage doors on my house were uninsulated and super noisy. I added insulation to them and now it's very quiet.
flathead dave
Well-known member
I use GIBBS on mine for maint. Better then WD-40.
Busted Knucles
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2016
- Messages
- 437
lower door and take the tension off the cables
loosen a row of hinges and let it float and tighten hinges back up
See if that helps
loosen a row of hinges and let it float and tighten hinges back up
See if that helps
WisJim
Well-known member
I installed a top of the line insulated garage door and it was really noisy opening and closing. Apparently the rollers and hinges weren't lubricated from the factory and a quick shot of a spray lube on each roller made a huge difference in noise, until I get the proper lube.
Good idea. Since its new though I'm gonna let them come out and evaluate it before making any changes.
rayra
Well-known member
seconding jstroede, those smaller hinge place look cockeyed. Likely bolts buzzed on with a powered driver, ceneter bolt first, which would have spun the plates clockwise up against the 2nd and 3rd flanking bolts. Which means grease or no, the hinges aren't moving as freely as they should. I'd loosen them all, run the door up and down by hand a few times and align the hinge plates vertically and snug the bolts back down by hand with a ratchet, watching for that rotation.
I would also take a close look for alignment at the joints of the tracks, especially where the radius sections meet the vertical and horizontal rail sections. A bad misalignment there could give you that popping noise or hesitation in movement.
I don't expect the door will ever be quiet or near-silent. But the popping noises definitely mean something isn't right.
I would also take a close look for alignment at the joints of the tracks, especially where the radius sections meet the vertical and horizontal rail sections. A bad misalignment there could give you that popping noise or hesitation in movement.
I don't expect the door will ever be quiet or near-silent. But the popping noises definitely mean something isn't right.
Okay so I had two visits from the installer. The first guy said the design is at fault and there was nothing he could do but lube, however he said they have an older guy on staff who is better qualified for this door. So the next day the older guy came out, said the design is partially at fault but the real problem is (very) sloppy factory drilling of the holes the hinges bolt into and that he has had some luck by forcing the hinges a little up/down/left/right/clockwise/counterclockwise using a hammer and then retightening. Took him 15 minutes and now the popping sound is totally gone and its 90% quieter. Still a poor design due to non-unadjustable hinges that don't even have axles so its never gonna be perfect, but I'm very pleased with the improvement.
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