As I have aged it is hard for me to push vehicles into my garage, the floor is 2' taller than the driveway. I have a portable winch but nothing to attach it too. What can I use that would be flush with the floor, (so I don't stumble over it when not in use). I also would like to use it to pull panels on a car that needs to be straitened. I wish I would have thought about this when I built the house 20 years ago. Thanks
draging cars into garage
- Thread starter uppster
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Drill some holes and epoxy coupling nuts into the floor
nadogail
Well-known member
Maybe attach a winch mounting plate to the floor, the winch could "plug into" the fixed plate without bolts.
tez929rr
Well-known member
I’m pretty sure that there was a thread on this a while back.
fitter30
Well-known member
3/4" Drop in anchors. With a short piece of heavy 3 -4" angle iron with a 3/4" eye bolt. The it can be removed when not in use.
FredWanaker
Well-known member
if the slab is not pre-stressed with tendons in it that might get nicked drilling or cutting, someone suggested pots and hooks in the floor on the other thread with the same question.
Get a post lift. Us old guys shouldn't be crawling on concrete under cars anyway.
Then just wrap a chain around the post to pull them in.
My garage is the opposite... ALL Down Hill. Sux with cars that don't run or have brakes.
Then just wrap a chain around the post to pull them in.
My garage is the opposite... ALL Down Hill. Sux with cars that don't run or have brakes.
Crabman
Well-known member
This guy did some interesting stuff with an anchor in his shop floor and a winch
www.garagejournal.com
I think he showed what he was doing in the first 2-3 pages of the thread.
Good luck, as vdub says too old to be crawling on the floor!
Sawmill
After a month long wait, my sawmill arrived today! A couple years ago I started considering buying a mill. I started to research the different brands, pouring over reviews, and narrowed in on the Woodland Mills HM126 Woodlander. I know there are other machines out there, but this make/model...
www.garagejournal.com
I think he showed what he was doing in the first 2-3 pages of the thread.
Good luck, as vdub says too old to be crawling on the floor!
finn
Well-known member
Drop in pull points like body shops use.
I put eye rings in when we poured. Big mistake. I’m either tripping over them or they’re in the way.
I just use the tractor, CTL, or side x side & winch these days.
I put eye rings in when we poured. Big mistake. I’m either tripping over them or they’re in the way.
I just use the tractor, CTL, or side x side & winch these days.
507caddy
Member
I wrapped a come along around the leg of my workbench one time, was heavy enough to not move. Got the car in without dragging the bench, was watching to see which moved first.
Forgottonia
Well-known member
Taurus Bull Ring. You could mount one of these on the floor towards the back wall. Or something similar.
I put a pot in my concrete, attached a chain to the bottom and use a warn pullzall 120 volt electric winch. It is rated at 1000 pounds, but have pulled my 7400 pound truck in with no problem. When the vehicle rolls easily the "smaller" winch works just fine.
bigdog12
Member
Uphill to my shop. I put four anchors in the floor so I can bolt a hitch receiver to the floor. The kind that just bolts to the bottom of a bumper. Slide my receiver mount winch into it and pull away. When I don't need it unscrew four bolts and the floor is clear. And yea, you really don't need a very heavy duty winch for a rolling load, my 9000lb is serious overkill for this use.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
If you're not concerned about cost these look pretty cool
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Renegade1LI
Well-known member
This one looks like it could be useful for moving other things as well.
powerpusher.com
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zkdiesel
Well-known member
You guys struggle with cars?!?
You should come play with construction equipment with me by yourself
You should come play with construction equipment with me by yourself
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
Construction equipment is easier, don’t have to worry about a few scratches,lolYou guys struggle with cars?!?
You should come play with construction equipment with me by yourself
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Search for "anchor pot". It's what they call those pulling points that are set into a floor. Here's one example, but there are many others: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_382411_382411
quickfarms
Well-known member
Forklift make it easy to maneuver vehicles, trailers and anything else you can’t lift with one hand
HoosierMark
Well-known member
I used 2 inch hitch type steel in my floor. I put in an insert to attach to if I want to pull something. Or I can insert a post to put a grinder or vise on. When i am done I remove it and all I have is the hole I can easily clean it out with the shop vac if it gets dirt in it. No tripping and multi function.
In my back yard shop (gentle slope a few inches up from the back alley) I have a tube bender bolted to the floor beside the central vehicle bay. I rig a pair of two block pullies with 3/8 woven poly rope to get 5:1 and pull most things in by hand with relative ease. When we built our short term project shop on best bud's farm, I put one 1/2" lead anchor into the floor near the back wall under shelving. We bolted a mounting plate into it on day one and the single block was rigged and has never been removed. It feeds the Rotary 8k lift (BIG mistake, won't lift a one ton dually) and has pulled all kinds of equipment in. We drop vehicle near the door then drive pickup up behind it, run the winch cable under and through the block then back to front and center of vehicle. Dragged XJ through a nasty snow drift last month with no trouble. Indispensable part of a working shop.
I used a galvanized lifting eye, drilled a hole big enough for the bolt and epoxied it in. Then used a ***-along to to ratchet it in. I do not remember if I got one with the bolt, or I used all thread. I will be doing something similar at my new shop, where there is no concrete drive way out side, just a sloped 5' apron.
maedlernorthamerica.com
Lifting eye nut DIN 582 M24 steel C15E self coloured ================================================== Actual user information is available on the internet in the section Downloads ================================================= SKU: 65458624 - M
Material: Steel C15E. For lifting and transport activities. For security areas and high requirement. For permanent attachment to transport parts. With CE marking und user information. Temperature range: -20°C to +200°C.
maedlernorthamerica.com
Do those anchor pots. An autobody supply place should be able to guide you. My buddy has a frame machine (Think really heavy duty jack stands) that attach to the floor in their own keyed pots and then clamp to the cars frame. On all sided are those anchor pots to where a pulling post (air powered) is attached to do any type of pulling.
Viper98912
Well-known member
It's pretty bad when multiples of us can say this statement
tjansson
Well-known member
I was thinking if I should put a cat door in my far wall to thread my tractor's logging winch cable through!
CN Spots
Well-known member
^ for the win
finn
Well-known member
That’s what I have.I used a galvanized lifting eye, drilled a hole big enough for the bolt and epoxied it in. Then used a ***-along to to ratchet it in. I do not remember if I got one with the bolt, or I used all thread. I will be doing something similar at my new shop, where there is no concrete drive way out side, just a sloped 5' apron.
Lifting eye nut DIN 582 M24 steel C15E self coloured ================================================== Actual user information is available on the internet in the section Downloads ================================================= SKU: 65458624 - M
Material: Steel C15E. For lifting and transport activities. For security areas and high requirement. For permanent attachment to transport parts. With CE marking und user information. Temperature range: -20°C to +200°C.
Hate it. Always trip over it.
Coming out soon.
Mine is up against the back wall
I have four 3/8" anchors in the floor for my manual tire machine. They have female threads and at first I was concerned about dirt getting in them and put set screws in the holes, but eventually I stopped and just blow them out with an air gun when I use them. A couple of them drilled and set in would work fine to mount a winch for dragging in a vehicle.
finn
Well-known member
I have a second one against the back wall, but I have Menards pallet racking in front of it so I can’t easily access it.
Also prohibits me from nestling the racks right against the wall.
Good news is that they were easy to install and inexpensive, and they did function before I moved on.
I need a pallet rack, and will have to look into menards
finn
Well-known member
Mine is their older stuff: maybe Gorilla Rack.
Their newer racks had a different name, but looks similar. Maybe Extreme for the new ones ? It’s a buff or tan color and is great for a home garage. They sell doors that enclose the front. I used osb for the shelves, but I think wire shelves are available.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
Not sure if you want to spend a few bucks but look for a battery pallet jack used, great for moving lots of stuff. We use one to move cars in the city, also get a pair of skates makes it real easy. Just watch mb, ebay, cl, auction sites they pop up quitea bit.
Lift-Rite Ergo-Lift 3000lb Cap Electric/Manual Skid Lifter Pallet Jack 12VDC | eBay
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iagsxr
Well-known member
So you have one bay that you're always going into?
Mount a ****** block on the back wall and the winch off 90° on a sidewall so it's out of the way. Like under a bench or something.
Can you winch them in backwards? Get a reciever hitch winch mount and put the winch on the back of the dead car. Then all you need is an anchor point on the back wall.
If you want to mount two ****** blocks and have enough cable you could put the winch on the hitch of another car in your driveway. Not sure how to explain, the ****** blocks 180° the cable.
https://www.harborfreight.com/******-block-61673.html
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