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ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

drz rider

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While we are on the subject of zerks not taking grease, I will have to post up a picture of my "Grease Zerk Rejuvenator" that I purchased from Snap-on about 34 years ago. When I first started in the Industrial Maintenance Field back in 1988, which is funny because as I type this I looked at the calendar and it was EXACTLY 34 years ago today that I started my career as an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic. How time flies. :unsure:

Speaking of funny, Today Aug. 1, as I'm reading your thread , is EXACTLY 29 years that I started my Industrial Maint. Mech. career. Time flies!
Thank you for all your input to this GJ sight on many different threads, I very much enjoy following along, please keep it going.

Keith
 
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zmotorsports

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Speaking of funny, Today Aug. 1, as I'm reading your thread , is EXACTLY 29 years that I started my Industrial Maint. Mech. career. Time flies!
Thank you for all your input to this GJ sight on many different threads, I very much enjoy following along, please keep it going.

Keith

Thank you Keith. I appreciate you taking the time to follow along and for the comments.
 

lilscorpion

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lilscorpion

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Matt, thanks for the comments.

The grease gun rack is made of PVC and some steel tubing that I used to mount the PVC to and secure to the wall. I have a full build of the grease gun rack back on page 76 (Post 3003) if you want to check it out.

As for grease, I use Phillips 66 Multiplex EP2 as my general chassis grease. It is a red extreme pressure grease with a NLGI rating of 2. This works great for things like u-joints, driveshafts, wheel bearings and general greasing duties. For the ball and socket style of components such as ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. I use the Valvoline EP Grease with Moly. I have refrained from using the moly in the U-joints because we had some issues many years ago and upon disassembly and exchanging information with our lubrication rep. at work we came to the conclusion that the moly can be a bit too heavy of a grease and actually cause the rollers in ball bearings as well as the small needle bearings from properly rolling and as they "skip" through the races and/or cups they will induce wear and actually do more to promote a failure than reduce it.

Hope that makes sense as I typed it.
Checked out the build thread. Very nice. Gonna copy it. Thanks!
 

Grant Gunderson

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zmotorsports

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Thought I'd post a couple of pictures of the Duramax LB7 high pressure line that failed.

The black circle shows where the crack in the line is located. This failure held approx. 125 PSI shop air pressure but would spray fuel just above idle.
hp1.jpg

I cut one an old OEM line apart to show just how thick the wall thickness of this tubing is. I still cannot believe one failed, this isn't brake line thickness. It had to be a manufactures defect or even a defect in the tubing before it was bent. The wall thickness measures approx. .110" thick.
hp2.jpg



Last week was my son's WJ's turn on the lift for a full once over and preparation and last night it was our Jeep's turn.


Bled brakes, rotated tires, LOF service on engine and transfer case as well as full suspension inspection and grease job. Also put a torque wrench on all suspension bolts and made sure my paint marks were still accurate. Had to wipe a couple off and repaint as I did get a little movement out of two fasteners, one on the lower left front link and one on the rear shock lower bolt.
co1.jpg

Also put a couple pumps of grease into the RCV front axle shaft joints while it was on the lift and front tires off.
co2.jpg

Made sure all brake calipers were floating and none were stuck or seized up. After setting it back down on the ground and torqueing the wheels back on the differential fluids were checked to ensure they were at the proper level and lastly a test drive before calling it a night.
 

4 FN 27

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I cut one an old OEM line apart to show just how thick the wall thickness of this tubing is. I still cannot believe one failed, this isn't brake line thickness. It had to be a manufactures defect or even a defect in the tubing before it was bent. The wall thickness measures approx. .110" thick.
hp2.jpg

Amazing. The Water Jet uses the same kind of heavy wall tubing.

My buddy Jerry had a Water Jet and one day he noticed a drop of water forming on a Tube. Out of instinct he ran his finger over the drop and the fine mist that was creating the droplet sliced his finger wide open. He didn't notice the mist until until after the cut.

Same type of deal. A very fine crack had developed.
 

sweet victory

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Diesel fuel injection lines typically run 10,000+ PSI. I would bet you were right about a material defect; likely grew to form a crack and then propagate once fatigued with vibration/operation.
 

sweet victory

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Amazing. The Water Jet uses the same kind of heavy wall tubing.

My buddy Jerry had a Water Jet and one day he noticed a drop of water forming on a Tube. Out of instinct he ran his finger over the drop and the fine mist that was creating the droplet sliced his finger wide open. He didn't notice the mist until until after the cut.

Same type of deal. A very fine crack had developed.

Ouch. o_O

I've seen brooms used to check for leaks on steam systems. Perhaps that's a trick you could share to save some finger tips in the shop.
 
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zmotorsports

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Diesel fuel injection lines typically run 10,000+ PSI. I would bet you were right about a material defect; likely grew to form a crack and then propagate once fatigued with vibration/operation.

Most modern high pressure common rail diesel fuel injections systems are actually closer to 30k PSI than 10k. This thing was probably around 10k when it started to spray, just off idle. At idle fuel pressure is approx. 5k PSI and it didn't leak. I still have a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that it didn't leak @ 5k PSI. :headscrat

I agree about a material defect, especially seeing as how this line is less than 3 years old and has less than 20k miles on it.
 

mike528

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Amazing. The Water Jet uses the same kind of heavy wall tubing.

My buddy Jerry had a Water Jet and one day he noticed a drop of water forming on a Tube. Out of instinct he ran his finger over the drop and the fine mist that was creating the droplet sliced his finger wide open. He didn't notice the mist until until after the cut.

Same type of deal. A very fine crack had developed.
I dont know if Mike has seen any of the hydraulic injection videos in his career. The training program where Im working has a "snake bite" safety video in the level 3 class (should be part of orientation) that shows the dangers of fluid systems under pressure. if you havent seen anything like that before search "hydraulic injection safety" on youtube, but be warned they are graphic.
 
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zmotorsports

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I dont know if Mike has seen any of the hydraulic injection videos in his career. The training program where Im working has a "snake bite" safety video in the level 3 class (should be part of orientation) that shows the dangers of fluid systems under pressure. if you havent seen anything like that before search "hydraulic injection safety" on youtube, but be warned they are graphic.

Yes, I've been involved and around hydraulic as well as pneumatics my entire career being in the Industrial Maintenance Field and pressurized systems are nothing to take advantage of. Complacency around pressurized systems can get you dead or at least to a point where you wish you were dead.
 
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zmotorsports

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I had a long night last night repairing one of our Jeeping chairs. These are mine and the wife's collapsible chairs that we take in the Jeep when we go off-road and they have gotten quite a bit of use over the past 8 or so years we've owned them. We use them for lunch stops whenever we're off-road plus when we go to fellow RV'er's sites for happy hour they are used because they are compact and already loaded in the Jeep for when we meet. They've also spent quite a bit of time around campfires at various rallies and gatherings with our RV club.

Well, during our trip to the San Rafael Swell back in April, mine broke. There are two small cast aluminum pieces on either side (four total) and one side broke during our last day on the trip. Upon arriving home I took a good look at the chair and thought it would be too difficult to duplicate the cast aluminum parts and therefore I started looking for new chairs. Unable to find something I liked, plus the wife was encouraging me to repair mine, I just decided to give it a try. I have actually been procrastinating because I wasn't sure I could fix it.

While looking closer last night I saw that the one side broke completely and the other side was cracked on the same pieces so if I were going to make two for one side, I may as well just make four of them and redo the entire pivoting structure of the chair.


Here is the chair in question. The failed part was the one on the left if facing the chair in the picture.
chair1.jpg

This is where the cast aluminum pieces should be, providing the pivot as well as the rest that the upper legs sit on when the chair is opened.
chair2.jpg

This is the wife's chair showing how it collapses and makes for nice compact and easy storage in the back of the Jeep.
chair3.jpg

After measuring center to center hole dimensions I figured I needed to fabricate a fixture to hold the components in the proper orientation before I actually started making the parts for the chair.
chair4.jpg

Once the block for the fixture was machined and pins of the correct diameter pressed into the block, I machined a spacer to hold the small end at the proper height.
chair5.jpg

Turned down the upper diameter of the spacer to allow the components to properly fit together.
chair6.jpg

One of the old broken cast aluminum pieces for reference.
chair7.jpg

Old cast aluminum part sitting in the fixture as mock up to ensure the dimensions are correct.
chair8.jpg

Next was to start machining the actual pieces that will make up the new pivots. I thought about using aluminum, but I want these to be even more sturdy than before.
chair9.jpg

After machining the large diameter part, facing it off, drilling a .250" hole through it I cut two pieces a little longer than .500" in length. I then inserted back into the collet knowing I needed to remove .057" off the opposite face. Here I set my soft stop up and set the dial .057" to be removed.
chair10.jpg


More pictures to follow.....
 
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zmotorsports

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Continuing on with the chair repair.


After landing on zero on the dial of the soft stop I should be at the correct length.
chair11.jpg


Yep, about a half a thou off is all.
chair12.jpg

Large piece sitting in the fixture and time to move on to the smaller end which will be .375" in diameter and have a 10-32 threaded hole through it.
chair13.jpg

I machined each end of a .375" O1 drill rod that was then drilled and tapped for 10-32 threads. After tapping, I cut off each end just over .500" in length on the bandsaw before facing to length in the lathe like the large piece.
chair14.jpg

Bingo, right @ .500" in length.
chair15.jpg

Two large and two small ends machined and ready for some CAD.
chair16.jpg

CAD in progress, my cardboard aided design.
chair17.jpg

Transferring to some 10-gauge P&O to be cut on the bandsaw.
chair18.jpg

Cutting the connector pieces.
chair19.jpg

Mock up.
chair20.jpg


More pictures to follow in next post.....
 
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zmotorsports

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Continuing on with the last pictures of the chair repair.

All of the components cut, deburred and ready to mock up before welding.
chair20a.jpg

After ensuring everything fits together, the pieces get a wipe down with acetone then final assembly on the fixture before striking an arc.
chair21.jpg

During the welding process.
chair22.jpg

Welding the other end after flipping around in the welding vise.
chair23.jpg

Two complete hinges sitting together how they will reside creating the pivot/hinge. I used a file for some light deburring and dressing.
chair24.jpg

Assembled chair now complete. I ended up building four total to ensure both sides were rebuilt.
chair25.jpg

Making sure it opens all the way.
chair26.jpg

Folded and ready to put back in the Jeep.
chair27.jpg



Although it was a relatively easy repair, it had me scratching my head at first. All in all, it took me just shy of four hours to complete the repair and about half of that was fabricating the fixture and ensuring the spacing was correct, otherwise it would be all for not. It must have been to spec because the pivot pieces lined up perfectly with the holes in the legs and screwed right together without issues.


Thanks for looking.
 
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zmotorsports

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Cool repair Mike, probably better than what you could have bought to replace!

Thanks Marc. Don't know about better but I sure wasn't finding anything close to what I had and those that I was seeing were upwards of $80-$125 dollars/each and I didn't think they were as well made. I'm just glad I was able to fix it. I kept the fixture just in case I have another one to repair down the road.
 
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zmotorsports

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This always cracks me up.

Nice work again Mike!!!

Thanks Pat. You realize I do that just for you, right? :lol:

Nice fix on the chair. Nothing is beyond repair in Mike's shop. :)

Thanks Justin. I wouldn't say nothing is beyond my repair, I'm sure there are things well beyond my abilities. I just hope I never run across these items. :bounce:
 
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zmotorsports

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I had to do a bit more "tweaking" to my chair pivot blocks last night. The night before as I was closing up the shop I was so concerned on whether or not the chairs would fold flat that I didn't verify the one I repaired would collapse in conjunction with folding flat. Last night as I was preparing to strap it in the Jeep I noticed that it would not collapse.

Upon close inspection I realized the error in my ways. I was so concerned with "beefing" up the parts to ensure this doesn't happen again, I didn't realize that the extra thickness I added to the blocks by making them from thicker material actually reduced the amount of space available in the pivot area for the legs to slide past when collapsing the legs telescopically. Hope that makes sense.

Anyway, rather than remake them from thinner material or completely redo them, I figured I could clamp them in the mill vise, take a skim cut off the surface and then use a ball mill to machine a very slight radius in the part for the OD of the leg to slide past when collapsing.

The blocks after removing them from one side of the chair.
chair30.jpg

This is how they fold together when the chair is being stowed. One leg telescopes into the lower section and has to slide past these blocks, one leg on either side in this configuration.
chair31.jpg

Using a .750" end mill I removed about .050" from the flats.
chair32.jpg

Then used a .750" ball mill to machine a very small radius which will allow the leg to slide through. The surface finish here is a bit rough as I sped the table up for the initial rough cut. The final pass was slowed down for a slightly better surface finish.
chair33.jpg

Two blocks completed and ready for test fit to ensure the legs will slide past before removing the other two for the same process.
chair34.jpg

Bingo. That little bit of clearance was all that was needed to allow the legs to slide together and the chair to fully collapse.
chair35.jpg

chair36.jpg


What a PITA all for a stinkin' chair repair. I have to almost chuckle to myself about the amount of time I've wasted on an relatively inexpensive chair.

Thanks for looking.
 

RickP

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When you've got a lathe, you might as well use it!
Especially because you enjoy working in the shop.
Just being in the shop seems to be relaxing for you.
Hey, it's cheaper than a therapist, right?

I'll often try to fix something, even if it's relatively inexpensive to replace. Sometimes I think it's because I'm stubborn. But more importantly, I just really hate how much products are designed to be thrown away these days.
 
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zmotorsports

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When you've got a lathe, you might as well use it!
Especially because you enjoy working in the shop.
Just being in the shop seems to be relaxing for you.
Hey, it's cheaper than a therapist, right?

I'll often try to fix something, even if it's relatively inexpensive to replace. Sometimes I think it's because I'm stubborn. But more importantly, I just really hate how much products are designed to be thrown away these days.

You hit the nail on the head Rick. I hate how we have become such a disposable society these days. Nothing is built to last because to be honest, I don't think that is what people want. I think people in general change their minds so much and want new all the time that those parameters are built into products and designed for premature failure, then people will buy another and usually up buy from the previous. Why? Because most people do not have a good relationship with their money or finances and do a poor job of managing it. Do I think companies can build stuff to last if they wanted to? Absolutely. Do they? No.

Now don't go thinking I'm going all "green" on everyone, not even close. I do however, despise waste and buying something just to be buying something. I want and for the most part don't mind paying for things that last so when I can repair something and make it last longer or even make slightly better I am all in. Not because it's the "green" thing to do, just because it is what I think is the right thing to do and not be wasteful.

As for shop time being relaxing, I think that is correct most of the time. I have actually had a renewed vigor when it comes to spending time in the shop and having it be relaxing after my health scare earlier this year where I was unable to get out into the shop for a couple of months. I think I appreciate that time even more now.

I appreciate the comments Rick and thanks for following along.
 

lilscorpion

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I do however, despise waste and buying something just to be buying something. I want and for the most part don't mind paying for things that last so when I can repair something and make it last longer or even make slightly better I am all in. Not because it's the "green" thing to do, just because it is what I think is the right thing to do and not be wasteful.
I’m wilt you completely. That said, I’ve found myself more than just a little disappointed lately when I’ve not been able to locate parts to fix things I thought I’d be able to repair vs replace. More or less I’m reinforcing you’re point above - manufacturers are biking things like lawn mowers to be replace vs repaired because they know our reaction to the mower running poorly is to throw it in the dumpster and buy another. I think the cordless trend actually played us nicely into their corner too. For example - pneumatic impacts used to be rebuildable. It a good one and you could have it for your entire career with an occasional rebuild. Now you buy a cordless. Once it’s done, it’s done. Ironically, a cordless is actually more when you consider the batteries.
 
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zmotorsports

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I’m wilt you completely. That said, I’ve found myself more than just a little disappointed lately when I’ve not been able to locate parts to fix things I thought I’d be able to repair vs replace. More or less I’m reinforcing you’re point above - manufacturers are biking things like lawn mowers to be replace vs repaired because they know our reaction to the mower running poorly is to throw it in the dumpster and buy another. I think the cordless trend actually played us nicely into their corner too. For example - pneumatic impacts used to be rebuildable. It a good one and you could have it for your entire career with an occasional rebuild. Now you buy a cordless. Once it’s done, it’s done. Ironically, a cordless is actually more when you consider the batteries.

Thank you Matt. You more than proved my point and stand on many things in that short response. That is why I don't particularly care for cordless tools whereas I love my pneumatic tools, regardless of the popular trends these days. And as far as lawn mowers, my Snapper 21" walk-behind mower is 31 years old now and still purrs like a kitten and looks "nearly" as good as new. I grinned to myself last night as I was mowing my lawn using my 25 year old line trimmer and my 31 year old mower that both started on the first pull.

I am definitely a fan of older well made products that can be repaired vs. new disposable junk. Funny story, my son has a couple of trees on his property that need some severe trimming this year. He thought he would look into getting a small chainsaw to make the work go faster and easier. He too is a connoisseur of older things, such as his 20+ year old truck and nearly 20 year old Jeep, so he started looking at older chainsaws on eBay and found a nice old McCulloch chainsaw that was complete and in pretty good condition. He brought it over to show me the other night and was giggling like a school girl over his purchase. He was so proud that he found a nice piece of older equipment. He was even showing me the cast aluminum housing vs. the newer ones that have plastic housings and bodies. He plans on building a shelf in his garage to show it off when not being used. Personally I don't see him using it too awfully much but he sure was proud of his purchase and how well built it was and I was proud listening to him explain its finer points and how he didn't want anything new and the reasons why.
 

lilscorpion

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Thank you Matt. You more than proved my point and stand on many things in that short response. That is why I don't particularly care for cordless tools whereas I love my pneumatic tools, regardless of the popular trends these days. And as far as lawn mowers, my Snapper 21" walk-behind mower is 31 years old now and still purrs like a kitten and looks "nearly" as good as new. I grinned to myself last night as I was mowing my lawn using my 25 year old line trimmer and my 31 year old mower that both started on the first pull.

I am definitely a fan of older well made products that can be repaired vs. new disposable junk. Funny story, my son has a couple of trees on his property that need some severe trimming this year. He thought he would look into getting a small chainsaw to make the work go faster and easier. He too is a connoisseur of older things, such as his 20+ year old truck and nearly 20 year old Jeep, so he started looking at older chainsaws on eBay and found a nice old McCulloch chainsaw that was complete and in pretty good condition. He brought it over to show me the other night and was giggling like a school girl over his purchase. He was so proud that he found a nice piece of older equipment. He was even showing me the cast aluminum housing vs. the newer ones that have plastic housings and bodies. He plans on building a shelf in his garage to show it off when not being used. Personally I don't see him using it too awfully much but he sure was proud of his purchase and how well built it was and I was proud listening to him explain its finer points and how he didn't want anything new and the reasons why.
Think you broke your son. 😉
 

SilverJimmy

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Regarding camp chairs….
I bought these from my old boss back in 1984. He owned a boat shop in Page, AZ called Rainbow Boats. He fired me in 1981, told me many years later that it was one of his finest acts! But that’s not about these chairs!896068FF-2F7F-49AC-A5E4-668471FC17CD.jpegThey are Zip-Dee Camp Chairs, and they were expensive! Stainless steel frames, solid oak arm rests, and SunBrella canvas. All my lake, beer drinking, buddies called me a ******* for spending what I did on them! Cool thing is, they fold very flat, and I just ordered complete rebuild kits for them. Didn’t need them, just figured I might as well get the parts and give them a tuneup for their upcoming 40th birthday!
7E0D0D5A-E317-4328-A6DE-BF1D5A85FEC0.jpeg
Made in America, and every part is still available! I even accidentally ran them over at Lake Powell once. I have to look really close to find the small dent I put in one of the tubing legs! I get what you say about not giving up on things that work and last, not being in the “throw it away and get a new one” world! Good for you!
 
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zmotorsports

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Regarding camp chairs….
I bought these from my old boss back in 1984. He owned a boat shop in Page, AZ called Rainbow Boats. He fired me in 1981, told me many years later that it was one of his finest acts! But that’s not about these chairs!896068FF-2F7F-49AC-A5E4-668471FC17CD.jpegThey are Zip-Dee Camp Chairs, and they were expensive! Stainless steel frames, solid oak arm rests, and SunBrella canvas. All my lake, beer drinking, buddies called me a ******* for spending what I did on them! Cool thing is, they fold very flat, and I just ordered complete rebuild kits for them. Didn’t need them, just figured I might as well get the parts and give them a tuneup for their upcoming 40th birthday!

Made in America, and every part is still available! I even accidentally ran them over at Lake Powell once. I have to look really close to find the small dent I put in one of the tubing legs! I get what you say about not giving up on things that work and last, not being in the “throw it away and get a new one” world! Good for you!


Jimmy, I completely agree about the quality and craftsmanship of the Zip Dee chairs. We had a pair of them with our last coach (1991 Beaver) and we used them heavily for the seven years we owned that coach. Unfortunately I was a nice guy and let the chairs go with the coach when we sold it because they matched the paint colors of the coach as well as the Zip Dee awnings on the coach.

Zip Dee products are hard to beat, period. Thanks for the reminder. Now I'm feeling resentful for letting them go.:unsure:
 
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zmotorsports

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Last week was our annual Ouray/Silverton, Colorado trip so I've been away for a while.

It was a great trip and this year our son and DIL were able to come with us so it was even more special. My son has never driven his own Jeep(s) there and has really only been with the wife and I about three of our trips since our first in 2007. Once he graduated high school in 2010 he has traveled less with me and the wife. My DIL has only driven through Silverton with her family years ago so this was a very enlightening vacation for the both of them. My DIL is really taking well to this whole off-roading thing and my son has been hooked since he was younger so it's a win/win.

As for me, I was nervous as hell the first couple of days as I now had another Jeep to worry about and stress over besides my own. I think I've mentioned before that SW Colorado has a way or torture testing vehicles as far as cooling systems, brakes, transmissions and all other systems due to the elevation itself as well as the climbs and descents. So with that in mind I was very anxious during the drive there as well as the six days of off-roading, although after about the second day my anxiety seemed to lessen when I saw how well our Jeeps were doing.

As for how the Jeeps performed, I am really pleased. My Jeep performed even better than it has over the previous three years with the current powertrain. This is the fourth year we've had the Jeep to Colorado in this configuration. It also turned over 50k miles on this powertrain during our trip last week. I think the ECM replacement and getting the operating system corrected was the major factor in overall performance at those elevations, although it never did poorly before. During previous years my only concerns were with the altitude causing fuel trims to be off from where I thought they should be and coolant temps were around 233-235 degrees on the steepest of the grades, which is not that bad and still under control but I thought they should be lower. Transmission temps stayed about normal over the grades being around 185-195 degrees most of the time. I think the transmission temp hit 200 once on a long grade where I stayed in 2 hi a bit too long and should have geared down into 4LO sooner. In previous years when fueling up at around 7500' elevation after being over 13k feet my adaptives would be all over the place and fuel trims would go high positive then negative. This is why I always thought there was something fishy about the operating system.

This year however, Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT) stayed near zero being plus/minus 2.3-4.6 range but quite often sitting at -2.3 to 0.7 so damn near perfect. Then when a fueling event would reset the adaptives, it would be almost -1.5 to 0.0 to 0.7 or so back to camp and the coolant temp would sit right on the thermostat and trans temp would settle down to around 160~170 range. I couldn't have been more happy with the Jeep.

As for my son's, I was very impressed with how well his suspension flexed without any rubbing issues and no weird noises or handling issues. His cooling system would sit around 200-210 most of the time but his transmission temps would get a bit higher than I like so we are going to add a bit larger transmission cooler. Separating the engine and transmission cooling duties completely has made a big difference overall. I think I was more pleased with his Jeep than he was because I don't know that he truly understands or comprehends what an accomplishment it is to drive 425 miles on the highway, wheel for 6 days straight and then drive another 425 miles back home with zero issues and coming straight out of the shop. We nailed his suspension geometry as far as limiting droop, controlling the upward travel (bump) and not having any interference issues, especially in the high stress elevations and environment that SW Colorado throws at these vehicles. I tried explaining that his Jeep was a question mark because the suspension system isn't a mass produced, off the shelf system that just gets bolted on and performs like every other one installed and that it was all completely custom built and put together in our shop and the fact that it performed so well straight out of the shop is a HUGE accomplishment, but maybe he didn't expect anything any different.

I was also able to meet Quinn @macgyver and his wife during our trip.

Funny story about that. It was our first night in Ouray and the four of us headed down into Ridgeway to eat at True Grit. After dinner driving back to camp and our kids into town to their motel room, we took a small detour down around some farms and along the foothills to see if we could spot some wildlife as it was nearing dusk. As we drove past the Ouray KOA where we normally stay, I spotted a Monaco Signature that looked familiar from posts and pictures that I had seen over the past few years. I told my wife "I think that's Quinn's Sig there in the KOA". She didn't seem to believe me because after all, how would I know one from another. But us guys know and pay attention to such things. :bounce:

As we pulled back into our campground and was getting out of the Jeep my phone went off with a message. It was Quinn letting me know that he and his wife passed us on the highway. :ROFLMAO: We ended up meeting up for breakfast the next morning before he and his wife headed out on the next leg of their vacation but it was so nice to meet Quinn and his wife and finally being able to put a face with a name on the internet. Thanks for taking the time to meet up with us Quinn. It truly was a pleasure to spend some time with you and your wonderful wife.


Now for the picture dump from last week's SW Colorado trip.

Hooked up and heading out. Hardly a drop of rain over the previous few weeks and as SOON as I pulled the coach out of the shop to hook up the Jeep, it started to sprinkle. It quit after only a few drops but then around Spanish Fork Canyon south of us the skies opened up and it was a torrential downpour for about 60 miles or so.
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Day one airing down before climbing up and over Owl Creek Pass. My son deflating tires and disconnecting front sway bar links.
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Overlooking Silverjack Reservoir.
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On the way back we pulled down by the river for lunch. Lawn chairs out and sitting beside a babbling brook for lunch. Doesn't get much better, especially with the kids.
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Son and DIL posing at the sign for Owl Creek Pass at just over 10k feet.
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Airing down on Day # 2 before climbing over Corkscrew Gulch, Hurricane Pass and California Pass. Jeeps did great and really set my mind at ease after Day # 2.
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Poser shot at top of Hurricane Pass, around 12,700 feet and clouds moving in fast.
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By the time we hit the top of California Pass at nearly 13k feet the clouds were dissipating and we had blue sky again.
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Another poser shot at the top of California Pass. We took in the views while we waited for some uphill traffic to go by.
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During another day's adventures it took us past the Red Mountain Mining area where we saw a lot of abandoned mines, some of which were still standing.
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More pictures to follow.........
 
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Z

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,394
Location
Northern Utah
Continuing on...

Our Jeeps with the most photographed mine in the area, Yankee Girl Mine.
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Another abandoned mine which I cannot remember the name of.
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My son however, remembered the huge Ingersoll Rand compressor and motor from years ago.
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Another day we took the kids up to see the Coors waterfalls near Yankee Boy.
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Based on my DIL's comments about how much she liked the beginning part of Corkscrew and the Red Mountain Mining area, I thought that they would like Governor's Basin. That turned out to be my DIL's favorite trail in the area and sitting at over 12k feet eating lunch was something I don't think she expected. She kept saying how the views are nothing short of spectacular and most people will never get a chance to see them. My wife and I couldn't agree more and replied by saying that is why we come back time and time again.
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The last day we took them over Ophir Pass which they also really enjoyed.
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Thanks for looking.
 

SilverJimmy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,630
Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
Mike, ZipDee has custom fabric, probably over 100 different color combinations. And your upholstery guy could sew you up anything you want. What I didn’t disclose in my first post about my chair was that on a dirt bike camping trip up at House Rock Valley back in 1994 or so, “somebody“drank too many beers and left those chairs too close to the almost out campfire. Over night the wind kicked up and one chair tipped over and most of the fabric burned off. My local boat canvas shop just sewed those fabrics out of SunBrella canvas. You can tell they aren’t original by the lack of the ZipDee logo!B78A4845-63E3-4B81-B581-B9F02C35BC16.jpegMy wife wanted this color…
036BC790-ADD0-45B0-84A0-5BB4F8CE714A.jpegAnd I wanted this color! So we compromised and got two of both. Takes about 5 minutes to change the fabric so now I have 4 different choices!
I also ordered everything to tune the chairs up…3D480EC2-6C0E-4FF5-9B2C-6D1034C0018D.jpegAB02DC70-EF5B-4394-BCA5-FABA30B23549.jpeg9831CEB9-6D6A-4E34-89B6-1BE62777554A.jpegBCF98A8A-D997-47E1-A499-1A654725AF49.jpegA836B056-8A9B-4961-99FA-1056BEDFB7AE.jpeg
All the fabric and hardware to rebuild the chairs twice was only $187.00 and that included shipping! My buddy’s dad lives in Sun City and he gave him a pair of ZipDee’s that had been left on the curb for free! He had me send him the info so he can order fabric to match his boat. I can’t think of any other leisure product that is like these. Kinda like Snap-On Tools, you only cry once!
 
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zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,394
Location
Northern Utah
Upon arriving home Saturday afternoon and seeing how bad my lawn needed mowing, I commenced doing yardwork after unloading the coach.

Yesterday morning I began the tedious task of detailing the coach top to bottom, undercarriage and exterior. It was filthy after driving through all of that foul weather at the beginning of our trip.

Generator extended and getting a detail.
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Engine bay being detailed and the Roadmaster Tow Defender unrolled to ensure it got a thorough cleaning as well as it was covered with road grime and spray.
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Engine bay after detailing.
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Then the engine compartment and generator compartments were closed for a hand washing and chamois job before backing her into the shop until next trip.
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Home sweet home. This will more than likely be the last time I get a shot of the Ultra CVO in the same pictures as the coach as it is going up for sale.
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Thanks for looking.
 
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