Have used geo-thermal at many of my locations in the Mid-Atlantic states (NC, VA, etc) . Units from Florida Heat Pump, Bosch (they bought Florida Heat Pump out 10 years ago), latest is Geostar (this recent 2022 installation was $10K and it's a Magnolia Plus 2 Stage (5.0 Ton) Vertical, Top Discharge Deluxe High Efficiency Heat Pump (20.0 EER) (4.0 COP) w/ Free Hot Water. This latest install is open loop ----deep aquifer well in, discharge out to 1.5 acre pond WITH OVERFLOW TO ADJACENT STREAM as they pump 100s of thousands of gallons annually. There is NO question these open loops are FAR more efficient than closed loops, either "well to well" water closed loop or "antifreeze" based ground loops. I keep engineering, cost records on energy consumed, thermostat (NEST) feedback /learning and know the efficiency differences , have the data to prove. "Ice Cold" air during summers, "HOT" air during winters --- unlike the vast majority of air based heat pumps.
All this "travel" 300 ft from the well/aquifer, into/thru the geo-thermal and 500 ft out to the pond is done only by the well pump. Back at the pond, when the system's running there's typically a 12" to 18" "shooting stream" of water (aerating part of the pond). Any disruption to this loop and you'll have to bleed to preserve its integrity, flow.
I recommend not using a (shallow) ground water source as they'll empty those out quickly --- only way to go is into aquifers (in my area that's 200 plus feet deep on the well).
They are CONSIDERABLY better than air based heat pumps both in winter and summer as they're drawing constant 55 degree well water (for heat exchange) and generally pay for themselves in less than 10 years --- that along with Fed Tax Credits and it's been a no brainer and closer to a 5-7 year pay back. Off-grid Solar paybacks are considerably longer (have these too).
These units will provide all the free hot water you'll use, need during the summers. Won't get much in Winter. I have a hybrid air-based (GE) water heater and it rarely, if ever comes on from March-October.
Life span on these units is 12-20 years --- generally compressors first (5-9 years), electronics similar life span, coils, capacitors (e.g. run), controllers, etc ditto. Very little maintenance --- same refrigerant (R-410A) as air based heat pumps, onboard filter, carefully (static free) clean off electronics, other cleaning and that's it.
Your overall costs (given the floor installation) will be on the higher end. Since you only have a well, you'll end up with a closed system which places that now either warmer or colder water used right back where it came from ----which is roughly 25%-35% less efficient than an open water-based loop.
If you go ground loop the (typically used) calcium chloride (antifreeze) will break down, become less effective over time and you'll need a cupro-nickle heat exchanger as it's highly corrosive. Other antifreezes (methanol, ethanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) each have their own properties (e.g. viscosity, flow, etc) so you'll have to compare. ALL so-called "extended life coolants" have finite lives (own heavy equip and experience that frequently) so you'll need to drain, refill these ground loops systems periodically -- that process doesn't really get everything (like cars, trucks, tractors, equipment, etc) so you're constantly sliding on the efficiency scale - recirculating "old" antifreeze.
Ground loop closed loops obviously have the advantage of no water consumption, but are expensive installs.
Many HVAC techs are familiar with these geo-thermals (if they have commercial customers) -- they're actually relatively simple to understand, fairly easy to diagnose, straightforward to repair. Several manufacturers provide hard wired bus-based diagnostics to their geo-thermal "mother boards" / "controller boards" ... I have mine 802'd off the geo-thermal VFR direct to my laptop which I use with other "smart home" tools. I "OBD" it periodically, wirelessly..........sorry 'Mr Maytag" repair guy (HVAC Techs) -- don't need em (unlike John Deere who is sticking it to us with crappy dealer-only OBD).