Tools of Japan

[darkzero]

Dammit! Maybe I do NEED to buy them now.

I never liked the PZ-59 that I have in my stripped screw removal kit, just threw em in there cause I had em, I never use it. Maybe I'll replace the PZ-59 with the PZ-57. Damn I hate this thread!

Got the PZ-57 yesterday, replaced the PZ-59 in my kit, much better.

PZ-57 has the same "issue" as some of the other Engineers, handles don't extend all the way to the end of the grips. Doesn't bother me much on the the 58 & 60 since they're larger handles but I notice it more on the 57. But it's for smaller screws so probably won't matter much. After all the engineers designing the Engineers should know better than me and I'm no engineer.

Now:


Before:

 

[CGarage]

PB Swiss has made special limited edition sets for the Japanese market for years.

Japan is a major export market for PB Swiss.

 

[oldpliers1]

I don’t like the catch when you strip with these , but very popular with the younger electricians, pliers are very personal, each hand is different . But this style is not a new idea the European electricians have used them since the 1960s

Here is a photo I got off the net English made 1960s probably Lucas Elliott by the grip design .

 

[oldpliers1]

the Japanese are great copiers of American tools check out the copy of the channellock 3248 , even though marvel made this casting in 1983 to copy the crescent 3800-8 with yellow grips at the time . And the crimper which was the big selling point and a 10$ price tag. Here is marvels latest knock off

 

[oldpliers1]

Here is some of my FUJIYA pliers they make great electricians wrench’s also and some good stuff , the diagonal cutters are excellent for cable tying , the blue cutters are for plastic cutting , very affordable and great on big projects , as our electricians really rate them . I understand that Fujiya and marvel are from the same factory . High quality budget tools

 

[oldpliers1]

Fuller pro pliers made in JAPAN . Australian/ Swedish knock offs
in the 70s fuller pliers were quality knock offs from Japan, copying the great American tool companies and half the price .
here is a pair I found in PERTH Western Australia , the Sidchrome ( a Australian maker with life time warranty)was originally based on berg / bahcos .( Made from 1967 - 1997 in Australia,bought out out by Stanley/ Proto )
bahco did a redesign and copied Sidchrome ( Sidchrome, bahco supplied tools to each other ) and here are the fuller offering of the plier, it’s well made , it was not cheap it’s a quality item. Have this style of fuller been around for a long time ? I do not know , as fuller has returned to Australia in the last decade after 30 years away . ( pliers on left Bahco 1978, fuller made in Japan and Australian Sidchrome mid 80s. Other companies like Tiapra of India use the same design profile . It shows good design does not go away .

 

[Jack_K]

Fuller pro pliers made in JAPAN I , Australian/ Swedish knock offs
in the 70s fuller pliers were quality knock offs from Japan, of the great American tool companies and half the price .
here is a pair I found in PERTH Western Australia , the Sidchrome was originally based on berg / bahco s in 1967 .
bahco did a redesign and copied Sidchrome ( Sidchrome, bahco supplied tools to each other ) and here are the fuller offering of the plier, it’s well made , it was not cheap it’s a quality item. Have this style of fuller been around for a long time ? I do not know , as fuller has returned to Australia in the last decade after 30 years away . ( pliers on left Bahco 1978, fuller , Sidchrome mid 80s

I have some Fuller spanners/wrenches made by KTC (they have KTC on them). I have found a seller on ebay selling Fuller spanners, some KTC which I assume is NOS. They have what appear to be current Fuller spanners which don't have KTC or a country on them that I could see.

Also these are FUJIYA cable cutters that I have.

 

[Jack_K]

Unfortunately my Sunflag scraper had its chrome flake off on its first use.





Something interesting I have noticed is that all the Minimax impact sockets I have seen are all labelled "CHROME VANADIUM". Only today did I notice that most of the chrome sockets (all 3/4" dr) I have are labelled "CR-MO", some being "CHR-VANADIUM"
I assume they are all made by SEK (Impacts almost definitely as they match the current SEK versions). It is interesting for the argument of CR-V sockets on impact wrenches but I assume it is just down to the specific metals used.

 

[rick carpenter]

Looking for best recommendations for +0 and +00 drivers. @macgee says he uses Vessel 610s. I don't think they'll fit my needs but only because I need to feel when chromebook flathead case screws finally seat against the countersunk plastic cases. The handle on the 610 or Hozan D-530 & D-540 drivers might let me apply too much torque for the application and actually punch through the case if I'm not careful. That points me to thin-handled drivers such as Vessel 9900 or TD / Anex 900 / Hozan D-91. I'm leaning towards the 9900s but does anyone have recommendations on these or other brand Japanese thin-handled drivers?

 

[m6z]

 

[Dave455]

Unfortunately my Sunflag scraper had its chrome flake off on its first use.





Something interesting I have noticed is that all the Minimax impact sockets I have seen are all labelled "CHROME VANADIUM". Only today did I notice that most of the chrome sockets (all 3/4" dr) I have are labelled "CR-MO", some being "CHR-VANADIUM"
I assume they are all made by SEK (Impacts almost definitely as they match the current SEK versions). It is interesting for the argument of CR-V sockets on impact wrenches but I assume it is just down to the specific metals used.

That’s not great.

I have an older (90’s) scraper. Marked “Draper” (British tool importer). Not sure of the maker, but marked “Made in Japan”.

This wouldn’t have been an expensive tool, but I’ve used it an awful lot, and there is no wear to the plating at all. (If I could go back 30 years, I’d ask Dad to go out and get another of these)!

The Sunfag doesn’t look great by comparison.

I don’t see Sunflag tools at all in the U.K. We used to, and I always suspected they were the manufacturer of some “mid quality” screwdrivers we used to see here in the 80’s, but I wonder if their products struggle to compete in an international market?

 

[jmf535]

Looking for best recommendations for +0 and +00 drivers. @macgee says he uses Vessel 610s. I don't think they'll fit my needs but only because I need to feel when chromebook flathead case screws finally seat against the countersunk plastic cases. The handle on the 610 or Hozan D-530 & D-540 drivers might let me apply too much torque for the application and actually punch through the case if I'm not careful. That points me to thin-handled drivers such as Vessel 9900 or TD / Anex 900 / Hozan D-91. I'm leaning towards the 9900s but does anyone have recommendations on these or other brand Japanese thin-handled drivers?

I have some of the 9900's, and while they haven't seen a ton of use, I do enjoy them.
The handle shape feels great in the hand and provides good feedback, so I wouldn't worry about overtightening by accident. Then the tips are typical Vessel quality. All in all, great little drivers, and very hard to beat for the price.

 

[darkzero]

Looking for best recommendations for +0 and +00 drivers. @macgee says he uses Vessel 610s. I don't think they'll fit my needs but only because I need to feel when chromebook flathead case screws finally seat against the countersunk plastic cases. The handle on the 610 or Hozan D-530 & D-540 drivers might let me apply too much torque for the application and actually punch through the case if I'm not careful. That points me to thin-handled drivers such as Vessel 9900 or TD / Anex 900 / Hozan D-91. I'm leaning towards the 9900s but does anyone have recommendations on these or other brand Japanese thin-handled drivers?

I've got the Vessel 9900s & 2 sets of the TD-56. I got the 9900s first & used them for a while before getting the TDs. I obviously like the TDs better since I have 2 sets now.... for my needs.

The 9900s are nice but the shanks are really long, too long for my liking. Wish they were more along the lengths of Wiha precision drivers.

The TDs I use more cause the 9900s are so long. The rubber grips aren't glued on so they slip to kinda help prevent overtightening a screw. Can just grip them harder when you need more torque or just take em off. I don't like the plastic swivel end, looks kinda cheap but doesn't affect functionality. Storage case could be better but it's just a case.

Mentioned before, I used to work in laptop repair. For me I wouldn't use the TDs for that. I like them better for more precision work. For laptops I agree on not using a driver with a fat/big handle. I prefer a handle shape similar to the 9900s or Wiha precision drivers & with swivel ends.

 

[Madjik Man]

Engineer PZ-57
Engineer PZ-58
Engineer PZ-59
KTC BRSW3L

Question about the KTC BRSW3L: The swivel head is extremely tight. I mean alarmingly tight. Nearly impossible to move with my fingers. Do I loosen up that hex bolt on the side to make it a normal operation? I'm not sure what this warning sticker says but is it something along the lines of "we ship it tight to prevent damage, loosen up before first use? "

Edit: just watched @superautobacs video talking about how tight the swivel head is ("tight tolerances") and he claims you can adjust it using that hex bolt (without demonstrating it)

Edit 2: Confirmed, I used a 2.5mm hex wrench and loosened the bolt just a smidge and the movement of the swivel head is beautiful now.

 

[darkzero]

I'm not sure what this warning sticker says but is it something along the lines of "we ship it tight to prevent damage, loosen up before first use? "

According to an online translator...

 

[Madjik Man]

According to an online translator...

Wow, gotta love the internet.

Thank you.

 

[darkzero]

Wow, gotta love the internet.

Thank you.

Yep, technology these days. I still remember using pagers & pay phones like it wasn't really that long ago. Lol. But then again, yeah it was.

I believe most newer cell phones can translate photos. My phone is too old but I believe there are apps available that does it.

 

[Jack_K]

That’s not great.

I have an older (90’s) scraper. Marked “Draper” (British tool importer). Not sure of the maker, but marked “Made in Japan”.

This wouldn’t have been an expensive tool, but I’ve used it an awful lot, and there is no wear to the plating at all. (If I could go back 30 years, I’d ask Dad to go out and get another of these)!

The Sunfag doesn’t look great by comparison.

I don’t see Sunflag tools at all in the U.K. We used to, and I always suspected they were the manufacturer of some “mid quality” screwdrivers we used to see here in the 80’s, but I wonder if their products struggle to compete in an international market?

I am not sure if they manufacture all their products or not. I have a Toledo branded centre punch which I believe are sourced via Sunflag but I have also seen them for sale as KTC and I think another brand.

 

[Dave455]

As previously mentioned, one of the U.K. Vessel retailers is closing down and selling some items at clearance prices.

I just don’t need more screwdrivers, and I’ve already bought a batch of these for “stock”, but with many of the Megadora’s at about $2 a piece, I thought I’d pick up a few more.

Sadly, the “Power Grip” models are not discounted, but even as a confirmed Snap On / PB Swiss guy, I have to admit these are bordering on perfection, so might as well get a couple more!

I also got a “set” of hex drivers. I use these a lot, and you can’t have too many.

I’ve used these previously, but they had a chrome plated blade and black tip. I notice they have switched to an all plated design, very similar to the Torx blades on the “Power Grip” tools.

 

[Mr. Tool]

I've got the complete set of those "Red Handle" Vessel drivers in both common & philips, that I purchased years ago and they are awesome to use.

That is a hell-of-a-deal on those Vessel(s) from that retailer closing.

 

[Dave455]

I've got the complete set of those "Red Handle" Vessel drivers in both common & philips, that I purchased years ago and they are awesome to use.

That is a hell-of-a-deal on those Vessel(s) from that retailer closing.

Awesome set!

I’ve got them all except the PH4.

Definitely my favourite Vessel’s!

 

[dutchgray]

^ just ordered a single Vessel power grip, a PH3, was looking for one in the workshop at the weekend and couldn't find one anywhere, there must be one in there but I couldn't find it.
Also ordered a bunch of Wiha microfish, Felo in 400 series and 500 series VDE. Got more screwdrivers than I really need already, but with the workshop, garage at home and the work van having a good assortment in each location has become worth spending the money on, plus the van stock needs going through as some are pretty worn.

 

[wmb67]

As previously mentioned, one of the U.K. Vessel retailers is closing down and selling some items at clearance prices.

I just don’t need more screwdrivers, and I’ve already bought a batch of these for “stock”, but with many of the Megadora’s at about $2 a piece, I thought I’d pick up a few more.

Sadly, the “Power Grip” models are not discounted, but even as a confirmed Snap On / PB Swiss guy, I have to admit these are bordering on perfection, so might as well get a couple more!

I also got a “set” of hex drivers. I use these a lot, and you can’t have too many.

I’ve used these previously, but they had a chrome plated blade and black tip. I notice they have switched to an all plated design, very similar to the Torx blades on the “Power Grip” tools.

Hmm… do you know if this U.K. Vessel retailer ships to the USA?

 

[Dave455]

Hmm… do you know if this U.K. Vessel retailer ships to the USA?

It looks like they do.

Whether it’s worth it for relatively inexpensive items like screwdrivers, you would have to calculate.

www.onlyqualitytools.com

Also note, that not everything is reduced. Vessel Power Grip’s are not. Some of the Megadora’s are, but the biggest reductions are on items like Pozidriv’s, which are very useful for me, but I suspect of limited appeal in the U.S. Some items are already sold out.

 

[Jack_K]

My latest NOS Minimax purchase, 1/2 and 3/8 drive SAE universal impacts (chrome vanadium)



These were thrown in as I bought a bit of stuff from the seller (some other sockets not shown):

As previously mentioned, one of the U.K. Vessel retailers is closing down and selling some items at clearance prices.

I just don’t need more screwdrivers, and I’ve already bought a batch of these for “stock”, but with many of the Megadora’s at about $2 a piece, I thought I’d pick up a few more.

I just placed an order, mainly for the Pozidriv megadoras as I have been needing them working on my rover mini which was made in the U.K. I don't normally see pozidriv and nobody is selling Pozidriv vessels in Australia so that price is great. I have bought a lot recently so I was trying to stop for a bit but I do need some Pozidriv screwdrivers.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Koken never disappoints.

 

[R1100purist]

Just got a Haul from DPRD and wanted to highlight a KTC 10mm wrench I got. Seems impeccably finished and is nice and light. Very precise feeling.

 

[4xdog]

Have we talked about this one here? I know I've mentioned it somewhere on the forum, and likely in this thread, but it woulda been a few years ago and might be worth a re-post. I used one of these things today and it worked perfectly.

The Vessel Impacta screwdrivers are one of Vessel's variations often included in kits. This Megadora-family driver has an internal system that rotates a small amount (12º) when struck, so it's a "gentle" impact driver. Most of the time it comes as a number 3 cross-point. Well, that's nice, but it's honkin' big and really not used that often. And Vessel doesn't offer a slotted one at all (that I've ever seen, despite looking).

But Craftsman does. The Sears Hometown stores sell a two-piece Craftsman-branded Impacta set with a number 2 cross-point and a medium slotted driver. They're cheap, too -- between $10-15 for the set. The colors are different from normal Vessel, both in the handles and the black blades. I use these surprisingly often, and the slotted Impacta is quite useful around the house.

 

[Qualitytools]

Have we talked about this one here? I know I've mentioned it somewhere on the forum, and likely in this thread, but it woulda been a few years ago and might be worth a re-post. I used one of these things today and it worked perfectly.

The Vessel Impacta screwdrivers are one of Vessel's variations often included in kits. This Megadora-family driver has an internal system that rotates a small amount (12º) when struck, so it's a "gentle" impact driver. Most of the time it comes as a number 3 cross-point. Well, that's nice, but it's honkin' big and really not used that often. And Vessel doesn't offer a slotted one at all (that I've ever seen, despite looking).

But Craftsman does. The Sears Hometown stores sell a two-piece Craftsman-branded Impacta set with a number 2 cross-point and a medium slotted driver. They're cheap, too -- between $10-15 for the set. The colors are different from normal Vessel, both in the handles and the black blades. I use these surprisingly often, and the slotted Impacta is quite useful.

I purchased a set from Sears about a year or so before the store near me closed.

 

[aspireguy95]

I Wish the sears hometown stores would ship I missed out on these when our sears closed.

 

[rick carpenter]

I've got the Vessel 9900s & 2 sets of the TD-56. I got the 9900s first & used them for a while before getting the TDs. I obviously like the TDs better since I have 2 sets now.... for my needs.

The 9900s are nice but the shanks are really long, too long for my liking. Wish they were more along the lengths of Wiha precision drivers.

The TDs I use more cause the 9900s are so long. The rubber grips aren't glued on so they slip to kinda help prevent overtightening a screw. Can just grip them harder when you need more torque or just take em off. I don't like the plastic swivel end, looks kinda cheap but doesn't affect functionality. Storage case could be better but it's just a case.

Mentioned before, I used to work in laptop repair. For me I wouldn't use the TDs for that. I like them better for more precision work. For laptops I agree on not using a driver with a fat/big handle. I prefer a handle shape similar to the 9900s or Wiha precision drivers & with swivel ends.

You weren't joking about how long the Vessel 9900 drivers are, I like them though. I got the 9902 set (+00 / +0 / -1.8) and the Engineer PZ-57s in on Tuesday and used them a couple of times yesterday and today. The blue ones are the no-name drivers I mentioned. You can see at bottom center what happens to a case if a screw gets tightened too much. (I didn't do that!) Removing a frozen screw standing proud on another case (I didn't do that either!) was as easy as pie with the Engineers.



EDIT: After using the +00x75 driver extensively for about a week and a half since the above post cracking chromebook cases open up to maybe 40 times per day, here are a few observations. We in the school library where we handle the chromebook distribution are the ones opening the cases and re-seating the battery and touchpad connections on the Dell 3100s, 3180s, & 3120s for rapid fixes (our IT dept does more extensive repairs). The length is good because it allows me to comfortably use two hands to modulate the torque. The length also lets me see the tip engagement better. The thin handle prevents me from applying too much torque, but certainly enough to git-er-done. The tip is very kind to the soft-ish screw heads and easily stays seated which means I don't have to use mondo down force on the driver. As a matter of fact, I haven't cammed out of any screw heads with the Vessel driver unless they're already badly bungered up. Even then though, the 00 -- or 0 driver if necessary -- will loosen them enough to let the pliers do the rest. The handle paint has fully worn off... I thought rather quickly, but oh well. I don't use the Engineer PZ-57 pliers nearly as much as the 00 driver but the pliers' size and jaw tip machining are perfect whenever I need to use them to remove a trashed screw. All in all I'm very well pleased with this purchase. When these do wear out I'll happily replace them with the same but I believe these will still be going strong when I fully retire in 3-5 years and bring them home to the garage.

 

[gMaxx]

I figured this might be the right thread to ask this question, did anyone have negative experiences with Tsunoda/King TTC? I´ve recently received 3 of their pliers, the slipjoints and side cutters are are lovely tools. Well machined, nicely finished, if they hold up well, definitely Knipex level of quality.
However, the combination pliers were somewhat disappointing. The joint was awfully stiff, like literally impossible to open with one hand, my guess was that the oil used has somewhat solidified? There were flakes of stuff coming out of the sides. Flooding it with WD-40, followed by a bath in oil helped them get a little better, but in the end it took 20minutes of closing and opening until they were in a usable state.
Don´t get me wrong, i prefer a tight but solid joint over pliers with a lot of slop, but when it´s impossible to use the tool as it´s intended to, there´s something wrong.
But that´s not the only "flaw" I´ve found. When setting up the machine that mills the Hole for the cutter, someone must have been asleep, there´s no way that´s how it´s intended to look, milled at least 2mm to deep. I don´t really care about it, but combined with the stiff joint, it doesn´t seem to me like there´s a lot of quality control in place.


To end on a positive note, the handle fits my hands well, and the teeth are machined nicely. Plus, the cutter is among the best I´ve ever seen.

 

[oldpliers1]

I figured this might be the right thread to ask this question, did anyone have negative experiences with Tsunoda/King TTC? I´ve recently received 3 of their pliers, the slipjoints and side cutters are are lovely tools. Well machined, nicely finished, if they hold up well, definitely Knipex level of quality.
However, the combination pliers were somewhat disappointing. The joint was awfully stiff, like literally impossible to open with one hand, my guess was that the oil used has somewhat solidified? There were flakes of stuff coming out of the sides. Flooding it with WD-40, followed by a bath in oil helped them get a little better, but in the end it took 20minutes of closing and opening until they were in a usable state.
Don´t get me wrong, i prefer a tight but solid joint over pliers with a lot of slop, but when it´s impossible to use the tool as it´s intended to, there´s something wrong.
But that´s not the only "flaw" I´ve found. When setting up the machine that mills the Hole for the cutter, someone must have been asleep, there´s no way that´s how it´s intended to look, milled at least 2mm to deep. I don´t really care about it, but combined with the stiff joint, it doesn´t seem to me like there´s a lot of quality control in place.


To end on a positive note, the handle fits my hands well, and the teeth are machined nicely. Plus, the cutter is among the best I´ve ever seen.

Thank you for your post I have not seen that actual brand but I have had a similar problem, might of been made on a Friday afternoon. It would be a technical issue rather than a feature. The design of these is all stolen from the crescent 50 -5,6,7,8 inch pliers from 100 years ago . It just shows good design lasts . ( actually my Klein and Knipex have had tight issues also ) enjoy your new tools .

 

[gMaxx]

@oldpliers1 I wouldn´t go as far as calling the design stolen. According to the pics I found online, the crescent have quite a different teeth geometry. But even if, there´s simply not much you can "design" on a pair of pliers, sure you could go the weirdo way like engineer or nws, but in the end they are all going to look similar.

And since this is a gallery, and we had KTC wrenches a few posts ago, I´d like to show some less common Japanese wrenches, made by TOP:
Great finish, feels nice in the hand while still offering better grip than mirror polish. I have no doubt they survive diy use just fine. They are on the shorter side, pretty much Sthalwille 13 length.

 

[Dave455]

I figured this might be the right thread to ask this question, did anyone have negative experiences with Tsunoda/King TTC? I´ve recently received 3 of their pliers, the slipjoints and side cutters are are lovely tools. Well machined, nicely finished, if they hold up well, definitely Knipex level of quality.
However, the combination pliers were somewhat disappointing. The joint was awfully stiff, like literally impossible to open with one hand, my guess was that the oil used has somewhat solidified? There were flakes of stuff coming out of the sides. Flooding it with WD-40, followed by a bath in oil helped them get a little better, but in the end it took 20minutes of closing and opening until they were in a usable state.
Don´t get me wrong, i prefer a tight but solid joint over pliers with a lot of slop, but when it´s impossible to use the tool as it´s intended to, there´s something wrong.
But that´s not the only "flaw" I´ve found. When setting up the machine that mills the Hole for the cutter, someone must have been asleep, there´s no way that´s how it´s intended to look, milled at least 2mm to deep. I don´t really care about it, but combined with the stiff joint, it doesn´t seem to me like there´s a lot of quality control in place.


To end on a positive note, the handle fits my hands well, and the teeth are machined nicely. Plus, the cutter is among the best I´ve ever seen.

I have several pairs of Tsunoda King TTC pliers and have no issues. In fact, I’d consider them to be bery high quality.

Stiff joints do occur with good quality new pliers. The worst I’ve ever had were a new pair of Snap On cutters. The solution is to work them without any lubrication. I flooded my stiff Snap On with spirit to clean out any lubrication, them worked them probably 1000 times (doesn’t take long) then cleaned them again with spirit, then oiled. They’ve been superb since.

With regard to the hole behind the cutter, I think you would need to see another pair to determine if you have a defect, or if that’s the way they are!

 

[gMaxx]

@Dave455 They do indeed feel well after working them for some time, still I doubt the flaky lubricant was supposed to "be" that way.
Same goes for the cutter hole. Just an optical "defect", but I´d be surprised if that´s how it´s designed to look like.

 

[Outahere]

Three 1/2" drive Koken tools from Palmac. A bit pricey, at $21 each.

 

[oldpliers1]

Klein made in Japan ( probably KIEBA was the sub contractor) release date may 22 in Aus & NZ

 

[GrantCee]

2. Koken 3/8 Swivel Head Ratchet 3776N
3. KTC 3/8 swivel ratchet long BRSW3L



Koken and KTC swivel head ratchet really surprised me. Ability to angle things made so much easier to access the nut and bolts I need it to get to (thanks Toyota for cramming everything in a weird way, unlike Honda). Should of got swivel heads long time ago.

Once again, this thread has cost me money…but I’m really happy it did.

Backstory: I’ve got a couple of Ko-Ken flex heads, which I don’t like at all. It’s not Ko-ken’s fault; I’ve found I just don’t like that concept very much for “normal” use, and haven’t found a lot of cases where they really worked well to address clearance issues. I use them, but grumble when I do.

At the same time, I’ve owned one of the “legendary” S-K roto heads for years, but rarely use it; I’ve never liked the tiny directional change lever that takes two hands, or the too-narrow knurled grip area, and especially not the high drag. I could probably live with any two of those issues, but all three in one ratchet makes me not want to even pick it up.

Fast-forward to the present: I’m working on a timing chain replacement on my ’87 Mitsubishi Montero. At first glance there seems to be a lot of room in the engine compartment, but everything on the engine is hard to get to because it’s buried under something else. A large percentage of the fasteners on this job present serious clearance issues, so I pressed my flex heads and the old S-K roto into service. I discovered that the roto head was the most useful to me, but the large head sometimes caused access problems and the high backdrag was a constant issue when I couldn’t easily get my hands into a spot to spin the bolt/nut off. Ko-ken’s light backdrag has really spoiled me!

About the time I got to the halfway point on this job, I decided to check into this thread to see what was new. I read the several posts discussing the Ko-ken and KTC roto heads, and they stayed in my mind as I continued to work on the engine. At some point, frustration prompted me to order up both, hoping for the best.

Well, those ratchets really solved some problems! The Ko-ken roto head very quickly replaced both the S-K and the flex heads. It’s so useful I can’t imagine how I ever got along without it (and I never realized how nice Ko-ken’s RH ratchets are; that mechanism answers all the complaints I ever had about that style of ratchet.)

The KTC roto isn’t as nice as the Ko-ken; it definitely requires two hands to change directions, and I can’t stand the grip shape, but that tiny head and the slight increase in length make it the only tool for a few of the access issues on this job. I won’t be using it as often as the Ko-ken (which I can see being my “go to” ratchet), but when I need it there's nothing else that will do the same job.

I just wish Ko-ken would make a 1/4 roto head!

 

[Fedwrench]

Once again, this thread has cost me money…but I’m really happy it did.

Backstory: I’ve got a couple of Ko-Ken flex heads, which I don’t like at all. It’s not Ko-ken’s fault; I’ve found I just don’t like that concept very much for “normal” use, and haven’t found a lot of cases where they really worked well to address clearance issues. I use them, but grumble when I do.

At the same time, I’ve owned one of the “legendary” S-K roto heads for years, but rarely use it; I’ve never liked the tiny directional change lever that takes two hands, or the too-narrow knurled grip area, and especially not the high drag. I could probably live with any two of those issues, but all three in one ratchet makes me not want to even pick it up.

Fast-forward to the present: I’m working on a timing chain replacement on my ’87 Mitsubishi Montero. At first glance there seems to be a lot of room in the engine compartment, but everything on the engine is hard to get to because it’s buried under something else. A large percentage of the fasteners on this job present serious clearance issues, so I pressed my flex heads and the old S-K roto into service. I discovered that the roto head was the most useful to me, but the large head sometimes caused access problems and the high backdrag was a constant issue when I couldn’t easily get my hands into a spot to spin the bolt/nut off. Ko-ken’s light backdrag has really spoiled me!

About the time I got to the halfway point on this job, I decided to check into this thread to see what was new. I read the several posts discussing the Ko-ken and KTC roto heads, and they stayed in my mind as I continued to work on the engine. At some point, frustration prompted me to order up both, hoping for the best.

Well, those ratchets really solved some problems! The Ko-ken roto head very quickly replaced both the S-K and the flex heads. It’s so useful I can’t imagine how I ever got along without it (and I never realized how nice Ko-ken’s RH ratchets are; that mechanism answers all the complaints I ever had about that style of ratchet.)

The KTC roto isn’t as nice as the Ko-ken; it definitely requires two hands to change directions, and I can’t stand the grip shape, but that tiny head and the slight increase in length make it the only tool for a few of the access issues on this job. I won’t be using it as often as the Ko-ken (which I can see being my “go to” ratchet), but when I need it there's nothing else that will do the same job.

I just wish Ko-ken would make a 1/4 roto head!

Hey, do you find the Ko-Ken 3/8 roto to be wide & thick headed? I also think it's on the heavy side. It's built like a tank, just not my favorite roto head.

I think the Ko-Ken flex heads are thick headed too just like Nepros. maybe it's a Japanese thing. The best thing about Ko-Kens is their low back drag but, I find myself reaching past the Ko-Kens for MATCO, Tekton, and Carlyle flex heads.

I picked up the longish KTC 3/8 drive roto head BRSW8L from DRPD tools and think the handle portion is too short and the tapered portion tapers too much, too narrow on the end. The handle section needs to be at least an inch longer and the taper not as narrow. I know this is just my opinion and that it may fit other people's hand perfectly. Still a Great ratchet though.