sidewinder vs worm drive

[billconner]

I've used a sidewinder all my life and now at 70 wonder if I should get a worm drive. About to be framing a 28 x 32 stick built - rafters and ties as well - garage - with rough sawn lumber to boot. Anyone made the transition from sidewinder to worm drive have a comment? I read two articles on the subject and think I understand the differences but don't know if I'd like worm drive. If I did go for it, probably a Milwaukee M18 saw. I might just stick with my old Milwaukee corded sidewinder. Thanks for your comments.

 

[Sumboodie]

Most framing I've done, I've used a chop saw.

 

[dnschmidt]

If you're 70 you don't want the additional weight of a worm drive. By the tenth cut you'll barely be able to lift it. That's why guys that use them all the time cut using the weight of the saw to push the saw downward.

 

[yatg]

For cutting 2Xs I use an older PC 345 6" saw. Blade right, light and fast.

If you're building something big with a lot of repetitive cuts, set up a chop saw station with long in and out ramps.

 

[unslow1]

I used a worm drive on a job site a couple of years ago. That was the first time I had to use one all day. Personally I didn't care for it.

 

[Davefr]

For cutting 2Xs I use an older PC 345 6" saw. Blade right, light and fast.

If you're building something big with a lot of repetitive cuts, set up a chop saw station with long in and out ramps.

^^Agree. The PC 345 Saw Boss was a great saw. Light, agile yet powerful. Combine it with a 12" Swanson speed square and it was way more efficient then using a miter saw for most 2X framing work.

 

[billconner]

Most framing I've done, I've used a chop saw.

I plan on that as much as possible, but think with this barn like construction I may be cutting in the air, and my 12" DeWalt chop saw won't cut a 2x12, and maybe not some 2x10 rafter cuts. I think I'll get through a 2x8 square.

 

[billconner]

^^Agree. The PC 345 Saw Boss was a great saw. Light, agile yet powerful. Combine it with a 12" Swanson speed square and it was way more efficient then using a miter saw for most 2X framing work.

Will this cut a 45 bevel on a rough sawn - full 2" - two-by? That's like a 2 3/4 to 3".

I wondered if the worm drive was worth it to or cutting 48 birds mouths all at once or in two groups. Maybe going slow with the sidewinder is nearly as good.

I suspect in the end high quality sharp blades may make the biggest difference.

 

[lardy1]

I'm 69 and worked as a carpenter for over 30 years. I really have limited experience with worm drive saws but from the experience I have, I will offer this: They are heavy and bulky. If you aren't used to them there is a significant learning curve. Even with (limited) experience, I would never transition. Especially at this age. I just put a new switch in my 80's era, corded Milwaukee 6365 and it will be the saw I go out with.

 

[RTM]

I would agree with others who say the weight of the worm is significant. Someone here said they preferred it for long cuts in plywood.

 

[Sumboodie]

I plan on that as much as possible, but think with this barn like construction I may be cutting in the air, and my 12" DeWalt chop saw won't cut a 2x12, and maybe not some 2x10 rafter cuts. I think I'll get through a 2x8 square.

May be worth looking into a sliding model. I have a $100 cheapy and it can only do up to 2x6 at a 45*. It has worked fine for much of my use though.

 

[KnurledNut]

For cutting 2Xs I use an older PC 345 6" saw. Blade right, light and fast.

If you're building something big with a lot of repetitive cuts, set up a chop saw station with long in and out ramps.

Arent those blade left?

 

[KnurledNut]

I wondered if the worm drive was worth it to or cutting 48 birds mouths all at once or in two groups. Maybe going slow with the sidewinder is nearly as good.

A wormdrive will offer better control and ergonomics/safety for gang cutting.
But, unless your pitch is really steep, you'll only be ganging the heel cut, not the seat cut.

Both style saws have advantages.
Brushless cordless saws bring other options to the table.

If all your experience is with a sidewinder, then it seems logical to stick with that format.

BTW, you wont be cutting anything 2-3/4 - 3" thick @ 90° in a single pass with a 7-1/4. That will take an 8-1/4 or 10-1/4 depending on brand.
A 45° bevel on that thickness will require a 10-1/4 minimum.

 

[yatg]

Arent those blade left?

Yeah, its actually called blade left but you run the saw to the right of cut line.
Its so confoosing!

 

[yatg]

I may be cutting in the air,

Look into battery powered saws.

 

[speed bump]

I'm not a fan of sidewinder saws, the weight isn't centered, the old ones aren't as powerful, and it's not as easy to track straight with the blade not to mention you get a better depth of cut with a worm drive. That being said you need to learn how to use a worm drive, the essential craftsman has some great videos on this.

 

[Davefr]

Will this cut a 45 bevel on a rough sawn - full 2" - two-by? That's like a 2 3/4 to 3".

I wondered if the worm drive was worth it to or cutting 48 birds mouths all at once or in two groups. Maybe going slow with the sidewinder is nearly as good.

I suspect in the end high quality sharp blades may make the biggest difference.

I doubt it. It's pretty limited to 90 degree cuts in std. 2X material.

 

[claymont]

I finish my pocket cuts with recip or a jigsaw.

 

[mike93lx]

Stick with what you know. A lightweight sidewinder is quite nice.

I'd be looking at cordless though

 

[gahrajmahal]

Here is what I bought making the jump from corded to cordless. I liked the option that I could still use a cord if I wanted. My favorite feature? The soft start. If you have never experienced a soft start tool it slowly ramps up to speed (1-2 seconds) instead of jumping to full speed immediately. You can’t believe how much easier that is on your arm muscles after a long day.

Metabo 36 v 7-1/2” circular saw

I am amazed at the long battery life of the saw. I really enjoyed using it far from an electric cord to make some fence panels. Never did need a recharge during the whole job.

 

[ItsNemo]

Here is what I bought making the jump from corded to cordless. I liked the option that I could still use a cord if I wanted. My favorite feature? The soft start. If you have never experienced a soft start tool it slowly ramps up to speed (1-2 seconds) instead of jumping to full speed immediately. You can’t believe how much easier that is on your arm muscles after a long day.

Metabo 36 v 7-1/2” circular saw

I am amazed at the long battery life of the saw. I really enjoyed using it far from an electric cord to make some fence panels. Never did need a recharge during the whole job.

I just got the Dewalt DCS578 which is their big 60v cordless....it's impressive for what a cordless can do and I'll take a brake over soft start in terms of must have features in a saw.

 

[billconner]

Well, with one exception it seems the gj wisdom says don't spend the money. I may look into a cordless sidewinder but probably live with my corded model.

 

[lardy1]

Bought and paid for is a pretty attractive option to me. To each their own.

 

[dnschmidt]

The weirdest part of this debate is it's a Biggy vs Tupac kind of thing. Here on the West Coast the worm drives rule. I've never seen a pro using anything but one. Back home in PA you couldn't give a worm drive away. Everybody used a sidewinder.

 

[mike93lx]

The weirdest part of this debate is it's a Biggy vs Tupac kind of thing. Here on the West Coast the worm drives rule. I've never seen a pro using anything but one. Back home in PA you couldn't give a worm drive away. Everybody used a sidewinder.

It's amazing how a whole coast can get it wrong

 

[KnurledNut]

The weirdest part of this debate is it's a Biggy vs Tupac kind of thing. Here on the West Coast the worm drives rule. I've never seen a pro using anything but one. Back home in PA you couldn't give a worm drive away. Everybody used a sidewinder.

Leave it to a west coaster to call him Biggy instead of Biggie.

 

[Badgerstate]

I've used a sidewinder all my life and now at 70 wonder if I should get a worm drive. About to be framing a 28 x 32 stick built - rafters and ties as well - garage - with rough sawn lumber to boot. Anyone made the transition from sidewinder to worm drive have a comment? I read two articles on the subject and think I understand the differences but don't know if I'd like worm drive. If I did go for it, probably a Milwaukee M18 saw. I might just stick with my old Milwaukee corded sidewinder. Thanks for your comments.

I always used sidewinders and recently decided to take the plunge on a Makita hyponoid saw. I worm drive seems to have a lot more torque than a sidewinder, although the blade is noticably slower. You can cut anything with it and the saw never seems to bog down. The nice thing about the Makita too is that it doesnt require yearly gear fluid changes.
Ive also got an old Craftsman worm drive saw that belonged to my late father in law and its a great saw too but its half worn out and the Makita is just a better saw in every way (other than the fact that the Craftsman was free..LOL).
All in all, I love the Makita and even though I cringed at spending $200 on a circular saw, Im now glad that I did because its a great saw and will probably be the last saw that I ever have to buy.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you're 70 you don't want the additional weight of a worm drive. By the tenth cut you'll barely be able to lift it. That's why guys that use them all the time cut using the weight of the saw to push the saw downward.

I primary reason worm drive saws were invented was to give you a better "line of sight" on your cut line. Secondary, they deliver a bit more torque to the blade.

For the very small amount of "framing" (cutting 2by material), I use a "panel saw" with a carbide tooth blade. Certainly not as fast but light weight and easy to handle !

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Framing - Dewalt miter saw, Makita circular saw, Porter Cable nail guns/Makita compressor, Dewalt impact driver, hammer - cannot wait to make frame another room.

 

[Desertskyy]

I think worm drive saws are or at least were a west coast thing

I have had a Skil 77 worm drive saw going for more than 25 years now I guess

I think it now comes down to how much cutting one is going to do as the weight will start to be a factor if it is being used a lot

Great saw though

I will be sticking with mine as I have had it so long and I like the torque and the way it cuts but I could see why one would like the sidewinder type of saws

 

[redwrench60]

As a righty I always thought craning my neck over the top of a sidewinder to watch my kerf was awkward. As soon as someone handed me a worm drive it all clicked and it felt like a familiar old friend. The extra torque doesn’t **** and the heft makes it steady.

I have never even been to the west coast.

 

[billconner]

primary reason worm drive saws were invented was to give you a better "line of sight" on your cut line.

Since - based on reading internet - the worm drive was first (1924) before sidewinder (1928) I'd guess it was invented because a portable circular saw seemed like a good idea. Perhaps the idea was based on a hand saw and it seemed the worm drive form factor was more like that?

 

[billconner]

If you're 70 you don't want the additional weight of a worm drive. By the tenth cut you'll barely be able to lift it.

I think you're right, but I did just lay 90 - 12" blocks and 360 - 8" blocks. My arthritic elbows may never forgive me.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I love my magnesium worm drive, but it is a heavier beast than either of my sidewinders. Unless you REALLY can be ok with the weight and front heaviness of a worm, and need the precision of the cut it makes, stick to the sidewinders, and spend the money on excellent blades for it.

 

[ItsNemo]

I love my magnesium worm drive, but it is a heavier beast than either of my sidewinders. Unless you REALLY can be ok with the weight and front heaviness of a worm, and need the precision of the cut it makes, stick to the sidewinders, and spend the money on excellent blades for it.

Worm drive being more precise? Doubt it...it's WAY more up to the operator and setup than it is anything to do with a free hand power tool. You can fairly easily get 1/32nd, and even 1/64th precision with any circular saw if you take the time to set up the cut with a guide but nobody is free handing one or the other better.

Track saw better? Yup. Table saw better? Yup. Circular saw with a slightly different design? Nope.

 

[Lassen Forge]

It's an older design, and you can see your cut line better, which (to me) makes it inherantly more precise than one you cannot.
Try this - take your choice of saw, line up your saw on your cut line, CLOSE YOUR EYES and make your cut. Sde how precise you can cut with your eyes closed.

I can cut a lot better with a worm than a sidewinder, because I can SEE where I'm going with it.

 

[dr_clyde]

Worm drive is my preferred saw. The weight doesn’t bother me. I’m right handed, it’s SO much easier to see the cut and handle my SKIL mag 77 than the sidewinders I’ve used.

 

[mike93lx]

When I am framing, I usually am not looking at a cut line. I mark 5" short of the cut and use a framing square as a guide. As someone that isn't a pro, I don't have the muscle memory for a perfectly straight cut and this works great without really adding time. A sidewinder gets the blade away from my face along with all the debris it spits out

 

[tarbellb]

Get a cordless blade left, so much easier on a long day of cutting

Wormies are good for heavy cuts, straight lines, and wearing out your arm

Each have their place, I prefer a sidewinder blade left (top of line cordless if I can help it)

 

[tyyost]

One of the often touted benefits of a worm drive is reach. I hope very few are left holding wood over thier feet and dropping the saw through the cut, but cutting sheathing is one of the other times the reach comes in handy. I’m an east coast guy, so sidewinders are our thing.

That said I have an older Skil 77, it gets pulled out for dirty jobs, abrasive blades and the similar. Like others, most of my work is dimensional lumber and I use a Fuel cordless and a speed square for most framing. The speed of cut, light weight, and ease of use anywhere pushes it over my corded saws. If gang cutting a stack of rafters I’d put the worm drive up on the list, but otherwise I have other saws to get the job done.