Milwaukee High Torque Impact Wrench - Clearance Issues?

[DennisVog]

Has anyone that owns a Milwaukee 2767-20 High Torque Impact Wrench and works on cars run into clearance issues? Meaning it's too large to fit where you need to use it?

I am considering purchasing it, as I've been on the lookout for a 1/2 Milwaukee cordless friction ring, and see it's on sale at Home Depot for $299. It's main purpose will be busting rusted nuts off an old car I'm restoring. I will only be using it occasionally, so I'm not really worried about the weight. Just clearance. I'll be touching every nut and bolt on this car.

I am already invested in Milwaukee batteries, and the 2767 has the most torque in their line-up. So it seems like a no-brainer. Unless I am going to be frustrated that I can't get it into necessary spaces, and will wish I had gotten something smaller like the 2962-20 Mid-Torque. I'm ruling out the 2855, as it only has 250 ft/lbs nut-busting torque.

COMPARISON
2767 (High Torque)

• Length: 8.4-inches
• Nut-busting torque: 1,400 ft-lbs

2962 (Mid-Torque)

• Length: 6-inches
• Nut-busting torque: 550 ft/lbs

So I'm basically weighing torque vs. clearance. Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[uncwstudent]

I had a problem clearing things with it with everything on jack stands (I'm a home gamer), but that would be the case with any high torque impact wrench. They're just simply too big for a lot of areas, which is why it is good to get a 3/8" or 1/2" stubby impact wrench for other areas. I've since exclusively gone over to Ridgid impacts and love the Octane high torque and the 3/8" stubby. Because of the size, I generally use my stubby ratchet the most.

The Milwaukee high torque is a nice impact wrench. It's smaller than the Ridgid, but you will need some crafty adapters to really make it work in tighter areas. Of course, anything that is perpendicular to the bottom of the car (i.e. suspension bolts, etc.) or parallel to the car (lug nuts) should be fine to remove with the High Torque. Otherwise, you will probably need to use a bevy of adapters and extensions or a stubby ratchet.

 

[dnschmidt]

Cheapest and probably best solution is to buy a killer air impact (which typically are lighter and smaller) like the ASTRO Thor for the ridiculous stuff and a mid-torque for everything else. Eventually you'll also want an M12 Stubby as well but you can wait for that and they're pretty cheap.

 

[RAYJAY]

Cheapest and probably best solution is to buy a killer air impact (which typically are lighter and smaller) like the ASTRO Thor for the ridiculous stuff and a mid-torque for everything else. Eventually you'll also want an M12 Stubby as well but you can wait for that and they're pretty cheap.

did that with my air cat 1150

 

[DennisVog]

Cheapest and probably best solution is to buy a killer air impact (which typically are lighter and smaller) like the ASTRO Thor for the ridiculous stuff and a mid-torque for everything else. Eventually you'll also want an M12 Stubby as well but you can wait for that and they're pretty cheap.

I know that air is the traditional and preferred method, but I don't have a compressor that is large enough for much other than blowing dust off things and filling tires. I am hoping to go all electric for tools.

Surprisingly, the M12 stubby isn't much smaller than the mid-torque M18. Though I'm sure there are cases where that 1-inch extra would have made all the difference. The 3/8 and 1/2 drive appear to be the same size.

2555 (M12 Stubby)

• Length: 4.9-inches
• Nut-Busting Torque: 250 ft-lbs

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[mike93lx]

Yes, there are absolutely clearance issues with some stuff, but that stuff is typically not what you need a high torque impact for. It really should be paired with something much smaller

 

[M635_Guy]

I think the measurements under-sell the sheer size of 2767. I have and love the Gen2 Mid-Torque. The site is having a fit with my pix, but will try again shortly.

 

[Pontiac787]

There are places the mid-torque won’t fit either. SUNEX makes a set of wobble extensions to help make bolts more accessible.

 

[M635_Guy]

M12 Stubby --> M18 Mid Gen 2 --> M18 Mid Gen1 (all 1/2")


M18 Mid Gen2 w/ HO 3.0 battery --> M12 Stubby w/ HO 6.0

 

[CJM8515]

i have both the gen2 mid and gen 1 hi torque. the hi torque is a pain to fit in a lot of spots. frankly the mid with a good 5.0 or higher battery does everything pretty much. i have have all the stubbys and love them too.

 

[redwrench60]

Yes, there are issues. They are heavy, huge and awkward doing most anything else besides lug nuts. Cordless had its place but definitely has its limitations.

Quality Air tools are smaller, lighter, cheaper, more powerful and last longer.

 

[John McA]

Two cents here: It's nice to be able to have a large selection these days isn't it?
There is so many more horses for courses than say, 20 years ago.

Look at the different toothbrushes that are available...

Good luck,
John McA

 

[DennisVog]

The side by side photos are very helpful. I assume that's the stubby, mid-torque (G2), then high torque in the top photo.

 

[mbunimog]

I have several impacts but the high torque is handy for tractor and truck blots and lugs where other impacts fail to move it. Also the ability to set it for torque is great for my mower blades and no need to check it with a torque wrench after it is verified being at the right torque setting. Speeds it up

 

[Professional Tool User]

A Milwaukee M12 fuel stubby gun can handle most automotive applications provided nothing is seized and you're not using a swivel, including lug nuts. The high torque gun is a one trick pony lug nut/large construction fastener gun. Even then, in a shop environment where you are impacting lug nuts, you're better off with an air impact because of how heavy and bulky it is. I'd much rather be using my MG725 than the mid torque because of the size to power ratio.

 

[dnschmidt]

I have several impacts but the high torque is handy for tractor and truck blots and lugs where other impacts fail to move it. Also the ability to set it for torque is great for my mower blades and no need to check it with a torque wrench after it is verified being at the right torque setting. Speeds it up

Note: The torque setting ability mentioned above is only available if you buy the "ONE KEY" variant.

 

[Earp69]

I opted out of the hi torque for this exact reason and went with the mid torque. There has only been a few things it hasn't broke free for me but it's well exceeded my expectations. This is working on 1 ton stuff

 

[visionguru]

Most bolts on a car will have clearance issues, even with the most compact guns.

I have a full line of Ingersol Rand impacts (1/4, 3/8,1/2, ratchet), only 1 is indispensable: the high torque. I know that I can take off the crank pulley bolt, axle nuts, large suspension bolts without resorting to cheat bars. Sometime when long extensions/adapters are needed to avoid obstacles, there will be substantial torque loss, high torque will have more torque left to get the job done.

 

[finn]

I bought four impacts over the past year. Used them on some brake and fuel system work on a rusty F250 last week and to repair what ended up being some mouse induced damage on my compact tractor. I deliberately tried to use all five tools on the same projects, just for kicks.

Milwaukee M12 Fuel High speed ratchet was pretty useless working on the fuel rail of the truck. Worked ok on the reinstall portion, but not enough torque to remove the fuel rail hold down. Worked ok for fuel filler screws. Head was too big to access some bolts that hold the roof to the tractor, but maybe a wobble extension would have resolved that. Overall score for the times I used it was 4/10.

M18 3/8 drive Milwaukee Fuel impact. Only used it for a few fasteners. Weaker than the Dewalt Atomic. Not enough torque to remove caliper bolts, but quite useful. Score was 5/10

Dewalt 20v Atomic. Excellent tool. Did everything I asked except seized anchor bolts. Small and good ergonomics. Score 9/10.

M18 Fuel Mid torque. Not a lot more power, if any, than the Dewalt, and a little larger, but I liked it. Overall score 8/10.

M18 2767 High Torque. Big, clumsy, and hard to handle. I used it on some of the lug nuts and to free the stuck caliper anchor bolts. It did everything I asked, but probably wasn’t required, and the overall size made some tasks difficult. It’s more something that you might need than something you reach for at the start of the project. If you can only buy one impact, it probably shouldn’t be this. It sure is powerful, though. Score 5/10, mostly downgraded because its size limits it’s usefulness, and induces fatigue because of its weight.

Of the five tools, the Dewalt Atomic 20v was my favorite. Mine is a 1/2’ drive, but I think I will pick up a 3/8” companion.

I’m not knocking the Milwaukees, although I was disappointed by the high speed ratchet performance. Otherwise, they’re all quality tools.


.

 

[M635_Guy]

The side by side photos are very helpful. I assume that's the stubby, mid-torque (G2), then high torque in the top photo.

Yeah - sorry. The site was being really fluky about pix- I was struggling to get them to even show up and forgot to label them. I just went back and edited the post for clarity.

I'm in the middle of a suspension and front control arm replacement on the family Mazda, and with you in mind I took a couple pix when I was in a sorta-tight spot - removing the caliper bracket bolts:

M18 Mid Torque Gen 2


M12 Stubby:


As you can see both fit, but the Stubby was a lot easier to get in there and position to remove the bolts. And it worked fine to remove them.

A Milwaukee M12 fuel stubby gun can handle most automotive applications provided nothing is seized and you're not using a swivel, including lug nuts. The high torque gun is a one trick pony lug nut/large construction fastener gun. Even then, in a shop environment where you are impacting lug nuts, you're better off with an air impact because of how heavy and bulky it is. I'd much rather be using my MG725 than the mid torque because of the size to power ratio.

My experience has been that the Stubby gets a little selective around 17mm, especially with longer and/or higher-torque bolts. I did the whole suspension on my Mini in late 2020, and it struggled with some of the subframe and other various suspension bolts. The mid whipped them right off. The Stubby has balked at a lug on occasion (and I'm pretty careful with torque). The Mid Gen 2 barely blinks at any of that.

I have much love for the M12, and it's a rock star for brakes, but it really wants a grumpier companion to cover the broadest range of scenarios IMHO.

Most bolts on a car will have clearance issues, even with the most compact guns.

Most? I don't agree with that.

The suspension job I mentioned on my Mini above was not only the literally-entire suspension (including lower control arms), but it also starts with putting the car in the has-to-be-a-euphemism "service position" that involves taking off the front facia of the car, removing the two crash bars, removing the exhaust and dropping the damn subframe (all just to get to the starting point...).

In any case, though all that work my Mid Gen 2 did most of the work with little in the way of clearance issues (the Stubby kept balking at some of the subframe bolts so almost everything other than the brakes was the Mid). I did have to use a fairly long extension for the rear strut mounts, but that's about it. (and it worked without issue)

My point is the clearance issues were pretty minimal and few on a Mini, and most were straight wrench-solved scenarios where no power-tools were going to work (e.g. the inner bolts on the rear upper control arms - but that was just one bolt on each side). I doubt there are many more-challenging cars than that.

I have a full line of Ingersol Rand impacts (1/4, 3/8,1/2, ratchet), only 1 is indispensable: the high torque. I know that I can take off the crank pulley bolt, axle nuts, large suspension bolts without resorting to cheat bars. Sometime when long extensions/adapters are needed to avoid obstacles, there will be substantial torqu

I'm not trying to be snarky (honestly), but it's posts like this that put a 2767 in my garage in the first place. I think I understand much better now what I think your post and the ones I saw then mean/meant: For a crank bolt, even the hand-tool scenario is a PITA and challenging, so a high-torque is the perfect tool for that job over nearly anything else short of a powerful air tool.

The thing is, I may never do a crank bolt. My Gen 2 Mid has had zero struggles with axle nuts on my wife's Odyssey, my Mini or the family Mazda I'm working on at the moment. (Having added one for the Mazda on Friday, I now have four freakin' monster sockets for the different sizes of axle nuts on our five cars ). I've done shocks on four of the five family cars, control arms and brakes on three, etc. - so a fair bit of suspension and brakes, but no crank bolts. Honestly, I may well send any car I have that needs timing belt/chain work to more capable hands than mine.

At the end of the day, I'd define "indispensable" a little differently: For me, it's the one that can do the most jobs. That definitely doesn't describe the High Torque/2767. It's a monster, but would have struggled for space in any of the jobs I did over the last few days on the Mazda where it would have even fit in the first place - and for at least 2/3 of them I would have been stuck with hand tools due to its size. It would have done almost nothing on the Mini.

I sold the 2767 and used the money to buy the Mid Gen 2, and that's the one I definitely consider indispensable. If I have to choose between the Mid and the Stubby, it would be an easy choice to keep the Mid.

My $0.02.

 

[jonesg]

Cheapest and probably best solution is to buy a killer air impact (which typically are lighter and smaller) like the ASTRO Thor for the ridiculous stuff and a mid-torque for everything else. Eventually you'll also want an M12 Stubby as well but you can wait for that and they're pretty cheap.

yep, I rarely use the big milwaukee but the aircat stubby is very useful on brake brackets etc.

 

[M635_Guy]

In a working shop or the most-extreme DIY scenario, I understand why the air-tool discussion comes up. But the OP has said he doesn't have a big compressor and it doesn't sound like he wants one.

 

[dnschmidt]

In a working shop or the most-extreme DIY scenario, I understand why the air-tool discussion comes up. But the OP has said he doesn't have a big compressor and it doesn't sound like he wants one.

The point is that the impact wrench is one of the few air tools that really doesn't require a big compressor. A 20 gallon HF unit will work fine with almost all impacts since the use is so intermittent. I have a huge compressor because I use professional level spray guns that consume 17SCFM of air a minute. Die grinders are much the same. But, impacts can get by with much less air.

 

[dchawk81]

The point is that the impact wrench is one of the few air tools that really doesn't require a big compressor. A 20 gallon HF unit will work fine with almost all impacts since the use is so intermittent. I have a huge compressor because I use professional level spray guns that consume 17SCFM of air a minute. Die grinders are much the same. But, impacts can get by with much less air.

Yeah I made a 21 gallon work for about 8 years until I had to get into the 1 inch impacts.

It's the continuous flow whizzy wheels and such that need the big tanks.

 

[M635_Guy]

The point is that the impact wrench is one of the few air tools that really doesn't require a big compressor. A 20 gallon HF unit will work fine with almost all impacts since the use is so intermittent. I have a huge compressor because I use professional level spray guns that consume 17SCFM of air a minute. Die grinders are much the same. But, impacts can get by with much less air.

And yet, he's expressed he doesn't have that and appears not to want one.

I got rid of my bigger compressors years ago, and I don't miss them at all - even the oiled ones were too damn loud, and I absolutely hated the hoses. (I wasn't really thrilled with the experience or performance using an impact with my old 20-gal. oiled IR compressor either.) My current compressor is a 4.2 gal. really-quiet unit from California Air Tools and it's perfect for the very-basic things I need from compressed air.

If air works for you, that's great (seriously). But when someone says "I don't have a compressor big enough and don't want one", the insistent suggestions for air tools are a little tiring.

 

[DennisVog]

At the end of the day, I'd define "indispensable" a little differently: For me, it's the one that can do the most jobs....
My $0.02.

@M635_Guy I want to thank you for the photos and the detailed real-world first hand use examples you've provided. I know it takes time to write posts like this. They are the most valuable. Most appreciated.

 

[sparky 1971]

I have the high torque and it's a big, heavy, son of a ... gun. I find it too awkward to use very often and find myself using my IR 231 air powered or the M18 2754-20 3/8 drive. I haven't tried to fit the 2766 into tight quarters so there hasn't been a place it wouldn't fit, yet.

 

[M635_Guy]

@M635_Guy I want to thank you for the photos and the detailed real-world first hand use examples you've provided. I know it takes time to write posts like this. They are the most valuable. Most appreciated.

Glad to help. I've learned so much here, it's an easy way to pay it back.

 

[pbon]

If I could have just 1, it would be the mid torque. But I live in NH where there is corrosion and routinely find the mid won’t remove a bolt and sometimes not even lug nuts or it is really slow. Sure, I could get a breaker bar and do the job by hand, but I have a high torque and use it. Yes, sometimes it won’t fit even with an extension, and those are the times you do the job by hand.

I have a 3/8 stubby, mid torque, high torque and 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets. When I bought my first Milwaukee tool 10-15 years ago it was the 1st gen M18 high torque. I loved that tool. Gave it to a mechanic friend a few years ago.

 

[M635_Guy]

Just to close things out (as far as pix anyway), I found the one pic I had of all four while I was looking for something else:

M12 Stubby --> M18 Mid Torque Gen 2 --> M18 Mid Torque Gen1 --> M18 High Torque (2767)


Honestly, even that pic undersells the size of the 2767 - The Gen 1 mid was a significant reduction in size and improvement in usability. but the Gen2 crossed a threshold that puts it very-nearly at the Stubby level when running a 3.0 battery. I'll re-post the pic from earlier to make it easy:

The Gen2 is definitely heavier and bigger than the Stubby, but almost feels like an M18 Stubby with some pretty-whopping power, where the Gen 1 felt like a smaller/lighter 2767.

I don't live in the rust-belt, so haven't had to deal with a truly-rusty scenario.

 

[TJ996]

I am having the exact same debate at the moment. I know that I will need to remove an axle nut that has probably never moved in 20 years. The factory torque spec is 340 ftlb. Any idea if a mid torque is up to the task, or should I get the high torque? Seems most cars have axle nuts with much lower torque specs.

 

[finn]

I am having the exact same debate at the moment. I know that I will need to remove an axle nut that has probably never moved in 20 years. The factory torque spec is 340 ftlb. Any idea if a mid torque is up to the task, or should I get the high torque? Seems most cars have axle nuts with much lower torque specs.

A breaker bar, possibly 3/4” drive, and maybe a cheater, will remove it handily.

 

[dnschmidt]

Why put up with the pain of a really heavy impact for one bolt? The breaker bar, cheater solution ***** for multiple operations but if you're only doing something once why live with a lifetime of too heavy, and too big just for one bolt. The Gen 2 Mid-Torque is the one size fits all solution (95%) is my estimate, and the stubby handles the top engine work.

 

[mepstein]

The solution is one of each. I don’t use my big 1/2” impact often, but when I do, it makes me happy to have it.
I’m always disassembling older rusty Porsche’s so it gets used often enough for me to easily justify the purchase. I’ve seen people slide and roll cars off of jackstands and lifts with large breaker bars and I think the impact gun is better at not breaking fasteners.

 

[Sumboodie]

I must have lots of tight bolts, I have the "hi torque" 2767 with allegedly 1400ft lbs of bust a nut torque. It's not taken off 150 ft/lb torqued lug nuts a few times, where the air gun and same socket did just fine.

 

[DennisVog]

The solution is one of each. I don’t use my big 1/2” impact often, but when I do, it makes me happy to have it.
I’m always disassembling older rusty Porsche’s

Ha ha! Now you're talking. But surely a Milwaukee won't work. There must be a Porsche special part number on those tools P2XX or something, and add a zero to the price.

I am also working on old Porsches, and have been acquiring the special tools as needed (e.g. cam nut holder and Crowfoot). It is frustrating to spend money on tools that I use once or twice, but sometimes there is No Substitute for having the right tool for the job.

 

[M635_Guy]

Why put up with the pain of a really heavy impact for one bolt? The breaker bar, cheater solution ***** for multiple operations but if you're only doing something once why live with a lifetime of too heavy, and too big just for one bolt. The Gen 2 Mid-Torque is the one size fits all solution (95%) is my estimate, and the stubby handles the top engine work.

Agree with your first point, and so far the Mid Gen2 is 100% for me (albeit in central NC we're not dealing with onerous rust). The 5% scenario for me would point me to something smaller when I had the Gen1 vs. something with more grump. I can see the 2767 for people doing crank bolts, working on bigger trucks, etc.

The solution is one of each. I don’t use my big 1/2” impact often, but when I do, it makes me happy to have it.
I’m always disassembling older rusty Porsche’s so it gets used often enough for me to easily justify the purchase. I’ve seen people slide and roll cars off of jackstands and lifts with large breaker bars and I think the impact gun is better at not breaking fasteners.

Yup - if I start doing stuff where my Mid hits the wall, a 2767 will probably reappear in my garage. I'm not cranking on anything that is on jack stands, and even on my QuickJack. The other alternative is to put any jobs needing that much with a shop.

I must have lots of tight bolts, I have the "hi torque" 2767 with allegedly 1400ft lbs of bust a nut torque. It's not taken off 150 ft/lb torqued lug nuts a few times, where the air gun and same socket did just fine.

You either have a bad copy or there's another factor. There's no way a 2767 should have trouble with a 150 ft-lb lug.

Ha ha! Now you're talking. But surely a Milwaukee won't work. There must be a Porsche special part number on those tools P2XX or something, and add a zero to the price.

I am also working on old Porsches, and have been acquiring the special tools as needed (e.g. cam nut holder and Crowfoot). It is frustrating to spend money on tools that I use once or twice, but sometimes there is No Substitute for having the right tool for the job.

The reason I wound up with a Stubby, a Mid and a High was that an old BMW came home to me (long story I'll spare you) and I had the notion to get it back where it should be. But it had gotten pretty damn rusty. I was already at the edge of my Craftsman C3 tools and decided to transition to Milwaukee. Originally I got a 2767 and the Stubby, but then found a smokin' deal on the Mid (Gen1) before the 2767 even arrived.

I did a few things on the car, all of which worked fine with the Mid, but ultimately decided there was too much to do for me and passed it along to a police officer who wanted a project to work on with his elderly father.

As I've mentioned, none of the work I did on the other family cars exceeded the capabilities of the Mid, so I sold the Gen1 and the 2767 and bought the Gen2 since the size, tri-lights and auto-mode were all a step up from the Gen1. So I run the Stubby and the Mid.

If the money isn't a big deal, I'd probably have all three. For you, rust is enough justification. But space and money are something I keep track of, and the Home Depot less than 10 minutes away pretty reliably stocks the 2767 if I'm ever put in the situation where I need to get one.

I promise I'll shut up now

 

[TJ996]

It's funny, I never mentioned what type of car I'm working on. However, like DennisVog and mepstein, it's an old Porsche.