theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Curbing is code in many places. I would do it.
Curb around my shop necessary?
- Thread starter Dreamshop
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toyotadriver
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,586
Do it in three pours. Either that or lay a row or two of block. I'd do it in three pours.
ConCretin
Well-known member
I've built several mono-slabs with curbs. Each time I laid down 24" form panels around the perimeter. I placed the first 12" of concrete for the slab and haunch then stood an inside form and placed the curb against the same outside form. It's not a lot of extra work and provides a lot of value.
A little seepage under a course of block isn't rotting your lumber. You could use foundation seal around the perimeter too.
The common trouble with basic slabs is people cheap out on the ground work; not elevating it, and not grading around it for proper run-off. The slab under my house has that problem because it was done quick & cheap back in the day.
The common trouble with basic slabs is people cheap out on the ground work; not elevating it, and not grading around it for proper run-off. The slab under my house has that problem because it was done quick & cheap back in the day.
Worsedog
Well-known member
Is that in your quote/plans? Or the second one?
If you have started construction and are changing something, of course it will involve change orders and money. If you haven't started and are in the estimate/planning stages, find a contractor that will build what you want, not what he wants to build.
Sounds good but you know we wants pictures as the build is going on.
Steve W.
Well-known member
When my shop was built, I did not think to specify what would be installed, and was very happy with what the contractor installed.
Footings were placed below frostline (about 3' here in SW oHIo), then 8x8x16 blocks placed around the perimeter. There is one course of blocks above grade level, except at the man-door and overhead door locations. The slab was poured inside that a few days later, after plumbing was installed. That gives me an 8" stem wall, which is plenty around here.
Not sure about the interface between the foundation walls and the slab, but there is something there to keep them from floating.
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Footings were placed below frostline (about 3' here in SW oHIo), then 8x8x16 blocks placed around the perimeter. There is one course of blocks above grade level, except at the man-door and overhead door locations. The slab was poured inside that a few days later, after plumbing was installed. That gives me an 8" stem wall, which is plenty around here.
Not sure about the interface between the foundation walls and the slab, but there is something there to keep them from floating.
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Here ya go:
Looking For Advice On My 32 x 48 Detached Shop Build
My wife and I made the move out of the city this past December. Among others, one of the main reasons being I could have a nice big shop for me to work in. Being a mechanic, I had a 4 post in my tiny 17 x 19 garage in the city (I took with me) but I've always needed more space and a 2 post hoist...
www.garagejournal.com
It's hard to think of everything until it starts to take shape. I like this contractor though, he's really easy to work with and pivots easily. At the end I'm sure it'll be more money but hey, while he's here might as well get it done.
Steve W.
Well-known member
My guy was good, too. We were working off some "artist concept" pictures that I gave him and pretty much said "how much to make it look like this?" The night before framing, I called him to make a change. One wall was supposed to have two windows. My wife thought I would like the extra wall space of ONE window. When I came home from work, there was ONE window framed into that wall.
It makes up for the mistake they made in the front wall. They framed it with no window. Saw it when I came home from work and called him. When I came home the next day, there was a window.
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It's funny when I got the quote I was talking to a friend and he asked me if I had gotten any other quotes which I hadn't. The contractor I went with was vetted by my wife (she does HR for a living) and a 5th generation resident in my area. I proceeded to explain to him that having a contractor you can work with and change things as you go along is priceless in my opinion.
I hate to say that money is no object because we all have a finite amount of money, but when you're building, you have one shot to get it just the way you want it.
Steve W.
Well-known member
My contractor selection process was interesting. Went through Home Advisor, they sent six names. I contacted one of them, he came out, looked at the project and the handout I had prepared with the "artist concept" pictures and the "wish list". I about choked when I got his estimate, so I contacted the other 5 on the list. Three of them actually showed up. Their estimates were considerably higher, so I went with the first guy. I know you're not supposed to go with the lowest bidder (unless you're the gub'mint), but I was happy with him.
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rayra
Well-known member
You've got the wrong concrete guy. He just doesn't want to do the more difficult pour, it's a lot easier to do and slope a simple slab.
You're the guy paying, you need to decide what YOU want, combined with what you want to pay for. Because he will (and should) charge you more for the design you want. And he might even bail on you.