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Boiler Heat or Minisplits?

jserr68594

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I am renovating a 1958 brick ranch. The house has baseboard/floor propane fueled boiler heat and forced air AC in the attic. Both units are from the early 90s and they do work, but are obviously dated. We are doing a full renovation of the house and are considering doing away with the boiler and central AC to go with minisplits. We are in NW Ohio. What do you guys think? Stick with the boiler or go to minisplits?
 
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u2slow

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I'm out on the west coast 48th parallel. I have a heat pump, and I still need resistive electric heat or burn wood in the winter.

I would keep the hot water heat... possible look at fuel alternatives.
 

jack stand

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If you're "full renovation" includes windows, doors some air sealing and foam insulation, I'd think that you'd be covered with the mini splits with the possible exception of an extremely long cold spell.
It seems that nobody on GJ burns wood and a small woodstove in the basement is the cheapest way to "cover" these temperature extremes although they may only be a few weeks out of every few years. A good HVAC outfit (not a salesman) should guide you through the options. I hate running a boiler through the summer just for the dhw
. A few key rooms of radiant may be a good "backup" and there's hwh's that can support both dhw (domestic hot water) with a built in loop for radiant. I'm not in HVAC and am not sure if this option is available for the much higher temperatures that radiators and baseboard require.
Like they say, the more you put into the insulation......the less your source of heat (cooling) source matters.
 

Yankeefarmer

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What I have found is HVAC contractors seem to still be reluctant to supply heat pumps (ducted or ductless) as the only source of heat in areas with cold winters, despite advances in cold weather performance. If your existing systems are still functional, have you considered adding the mini splits during your renovations, with an eye to removing the older systems after you are satisfied you no longer need them?
 

dfiler2

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In my opinion mini splits really spoil the looks of a room and if you are unlucky enough to have to sit near one you have to put up with the noise. You currently have hot water baseboard which is awesome heat, a lot of people don't like the looks but at least you don't have the same blockage concerns that you do with electric baseboard. The ac in the attic is another good choice for being quiet and fairly unnoticeable. You could always update the two units if you felt it was necessary but I would leave the systems in place.
 

glentre

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I agree with dfiler2 about mini splits being unsightly, noisy, commercial looking and obtrusive to the room but also feel they do not provide even temps throughout the house. Baseboard hot water is silent and gives even heat which is good. Older ducted cooling systems installed before contractors began using smaller ducts off a main trunk with high outlet velocities to save money tended to be designed to provide consistent air volumes out of every outlet and were very quiet. Point is, you may already have good heating and cooling systems in place but with the need to upgrade the ageing and inefficient AC unit and boiler as they near the end of their life expectancy.

Glen
 

Prospecter

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It seems that nobody on GJ burns wood and a small woodstove in the basement is the cheapest way to "cover" these temperature extremes although they may only be a few weeks out of every few years.
Good advice. 2x Regency 3200 stoves & 7 cords here. We've heated mostly with wood since 1985, using oil for when we are away, or when temps go subzero. Over the years, we've doubled the square footage, added lots of insulation, and reduced consumption from 12 cords and 1600 gallons per year to 7 cords and 200 gallons per year (including domestic hot water).
 

Bert_

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I sure wouldn't give up hot water heat if I already had it.

If it's a cast iron boiler 30 years isn't a big deal. I still see a lot that were put in in the '60's when people switched over to natural gas.
 

kelpaso1

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In my opinion mini splits really spoil the looks of a room and if you are unlucky enough to have to sit near one you have to put up with the noise. You currently have hot water baseboard which is awesome heat, a lot of people don't like the looks but at least you don't have the same blockage concerns that you do with electric baseboard. The ac in the attic is another good choice for being quiet and fairly unnoticeable. You could always update the two units if you felt it was necessary but I would leave the systems in place.
Mini's are not noisy. I can barely hear mine running standing right in front of it.
 

LS6 Tommy

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IDK what kind of mini splits you guys are having noise problems with, but they must be either VERY dirty and the blower is out of balance or they're el cheapo.

That being said, basedboard and central A/C is almost the best combo you could have. Even heating in the winter, full coverage A/C in the summer. The only thing betting in my book would be one pipe steam and central A/C- you get the benefits of the humidification from the steam radiator vents in the winter.

Tommy
 
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Acer21

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I am renovating a 1958 brick ranch. The house has baseboard/floor propane fueled boiler heat and forced air AC in the attic. Both units are from the early 90s and they do work, but are obviously dated. We are doing a full renovation of the house and are considering doing away with the boiler and central AC to go with minisplits. We are in NW Ohio. What do you guys think? Stick with the boiler or go to minisplits?
I have Both: In floor hydronic heat and mini splits.

Mini splits are great as a secondary heat source. Helps heat a room quickly, and add air conditioning. *i do not run them in January and February in Midwest, below freezing temps.

Boilers as main heat source. Less expensive to maintain and run, quiet and efficient. Natural gas boiler is least expensive to operate.
 

Bert_

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I wouldn't want to look at a mini split head on the wall in my house. When I have redone rooms I have tried to think of how it would have been done when the house was built, very traditional. Maybe some are fine with it in a modern house.
 

Yankeefarmer

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Our house originally had oil-fired forced hot air and no air conditioning. The hot air system could not be balanced and it was impractical to run ductwork to a large addition which we heated with a wood stove. I designed and installed a hydronic system which was probably the best improvement I’ve ever done. When we decided we needed A/C, we put in a multi-head split system for the two rooms most used in the house. My wife was initially concerned about the appearance of the head units. Once they were installed, she remarked about how you never noticed them. We heat our predominant living space with wood, keep the far reaches warm enough with oil, and occasionally heat with the split system during shoulder season. Best of all worlds, though I’d replace the oil with propane if I was willing to tolerate a tank, which I’m not.
 

u2slow

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Boilers as main heat source. Less expensive to maintain and run, quiet and efficient. Natural gas boiler is least expensive to operate.

One caveat is to ensure the hydronic pipes are fastened properly with appropriate straps/mounting. One colleague has a 60's home where they were not. Every strap creaks and groans as the pipes expand and contract with every thermostat cycle.

Nat gas is great (if available) but as far as the cost and bureaucracy of propane and oil nowadays - electric is easiest, and wood is cheapest (when you can harvest it for free).
 

kbs2244

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Mini splits are electric heating
With all the advantages and disadvantages
 

dfiler2

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I have nothing against mini splits, they do a great job for people and are very efficient, I personally don't like the looks of them. But, if I had a working hot water system I wouldn't pull it out and install mini splits.
 
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Jackfre

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Step one is to evaluate the existing duct work and hw baseboard both for integrity, aesthetics and operation. Given a total remodel you can and likely will substantially reduce the load and old duct work, especially old flex duct may well have reached its limit. Also, I’ll bet this ductwork was added to the home and has issues. It is exceedingly difficult to add duct work to a building without compromising the building or the systems operation. Replacing the boiler with a wall hung heat only or combi and install panel radiators to replace the baseboard would be a nice upgrade. The panel rads allow you to run the boiler at a lower temp which increases the efficiency of the boiler.
In my contractor training seminars when I was the Fujitsu Rep I used to say that, as far as the aesthetics of MS, “the longer you live with them the better looking they are.” I had numerous customers come back to me and tell me taht they had heard back from customers confirming that statement. They are quiet. In your case, I would possibly keep the baseboard with panel rads and do the cooling with the mini-splits. Run the mini-splits in heat until it gets really cold, then turn on the boiler. I suspect you will be looking at early Dec-no later than mid Feb with the boiler. Taht was my experience in ME,NH & VT. You have options then to work `both for your comfort and economy.
When we did a total re-model in ‘13 I ditched the entire ducted system. It was terrible for noise, air flow, comfort and economy. I did a dual 16.5 seer for the upstairs bedrooms, and a 12 and 15 single, 25 & 23 seer resp on the first floor.It has been high 90’s here for about a month. We run the one or two first floor units during the day and about dinner time go upstairs to cool the bedroom. At bedtime we turn off the downstairs unit and our entire H&C load is the 400 sq ft of bedroom. Frequently we run only the fan. The dehumidifier function of MS’ is excellent, which will be more significant for you in Ohio. MS’s also, as I have them set up, offer redundancy. You can get one condenser to run the whole house today, but I didn’t have that option when I did mine and I kinda prefer the multi condensers matched to load.
 
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PoorUB

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If you are doing a full renovation I would look into updating the existing equipment, or perhaps go forced air with ducts in the basement.

Mini splits are great, but I wouldn't install one on a remodel. They are a system I would install when you do not want to tear the house apart! I do not like the look of a mini split head hanging on the wall if there are other options.
 

theoldwizard1

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Mini-splits do best when you ha one air handler per room. Typical 3 bedroom ranch would need 4 - 6 units. Not cost effective.
 

Citation

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Mini splits are electric heating
With all the advantages and disadvantages
What type of electric heating depends on the model. The Pioneer I put in my old house was heatpump only. Great when it wasn't too cold out, not much good on cold days. Not a big deal since I had gas heat as a backup in that space.

I think heatpump heat is common on mini splits but I'm not sure how often they have resistive backup heat.
 
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jack stand

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These mini splits are miles apart from the "heat pumps" of the 80's & 90's .
I was looking for their efficiency rating at lower temperatures, like 20* and below. Rather than misquoting I'll just say it's very impressive and nothing like the old ducted hp of that era where I remember friends having the huge resistance "emergency" heat kick on well above freezing and them bitching about $6-7-800 electric bills.
 

Jackfre

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What type of electric heating depends on the model. The Pioneer I put in my old house was heatpump only. Great when it wasn't too cold out, not much good on cold days. Not a big deal since I had gas heat as a backup in that space.

I think heatpump heat is common on mini splits but I'm not sure how often they have resistive backup heat.
Electric resistance heat is not available by regulation on any plastic bodied unit.
 

gagecalman

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Is it possible to use a heat pump with the air handler in the attic and drop the air thru the ceiling like your ac is now?

Probably great for ac and not as good for heat. Might need high and low returns.

I don't know the pros and cons but I thought I'd suggest it for other's thoughts.
 

65ranchero

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I have around 2600sf cape and it came with hydronic oil fired baseboard heat and would not give it up for anything!
3 years ago we had mini splits installed , 36k on the main floor and one small one in the guest BR and another small one in our BR
last season decided to try only using the mini system for the main heat, it did work but I was not overly impressed on the performance in the very cold it had to be supplemented with the BB heat .
It cost about a extra $100+ per month in electric and did not really see much of a fuel oil savings , I prefer the BB heat any time.
 

kelpaso1

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I have around 2600sf cape and it came with hydronic oil fired baseboard heat and would not give it up for anything!
3 years ago we had mini splits installed , 36k on the main floor and one small one in the guest BR and another small one in our BR
last season decided to try only using the mini system for the main heat, it did work but I was not overly impressed on the performance in the very cold it had to be supplemented with the BB heat .
It cost about a extra $100+ per month in electric and did not really see much of a fuel oil savings , I prefer the BB heat any time.
That's the physics of them. Hard to get much heat out of them in -20 degree weather.
 

65ranchero

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That's the physics of them. Hard to get much heat out of them in -20 degree weather.
Yea, I know!
We ( I ) just wanted to see what the difference was, now I know!

The mfgs. marketing of "it will save you energy" is not fully truthful.
The only way it will be a energy saver is if you are heating by resistance and switching to minis.
 

Terry D

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I have hot water heat and love it. It is a even heat, no hot or cold spots. The house had window units in it when I bought it 35 years ago. One of my first projects was central air. After having hot water heat for all these years, it would be hard to give it up.
 

chrispyny

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Living in upstate NY, our climates are similar. I have hot water baseboard fed by a natural gas boiler i just had swapped out 9-2020. this year it would have been 50 years old. And i have ductless mini splits for a/c in key areas of the house as well(I have NO room for ducts in my house)And thirdly, i have a Jotul c450 fireplace insert i had installed in 2013. This model is VERY efficient and i think is still sold today.

1. For primary heat, KEEP the hot water baseboard, just update the boiler like i did *if necessary*. If your boiler is 25-26 years old, it’s still fine if a cast iron hot water boiler.
2. For a/c, since ducts are already in place, update the unit in the attic, (as it’s highly inefficient and probably little life left)get the ducts cleaned up and inspected, and be happy you don’t need anything else.
3. If it’s your house, consider a nice small wood stove, or pellet stove to supplement your propane heat, or if you have a fireplace, an insert.

My home was built in 1971, with my minor improvements, my yearly gas and electric bill is VERY affordable, as i’m miserly when it comes to energy usage at home!!

edited to add:
i dunno why, but it seems like the same guys over and over here in the heating/ac forum keep on ******* on ductless splits about being noisy, being loud, vibrating etc. i have both fujitsu and pioneer units in my home, and both are SUPER QUIET. I dunno what JUNK these guys have, or are coming across, but any newer ductless minisplit, if made well, is and should be a ‘silent runner’, like mine. I have a 2 ton, 2 head fujitsu on a 6” slab, four inches from my foundation and its quiet as a mouse. I have a 1.5 ton, 2 head pioneer unit mounted ON MY WALL below my office and spare bedroom/office and i can’t hear it run at all. I installed everything myself.
 
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yeldogt

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Starting from scratch one can build a very tight house today w/ very low heat loads --- I have a friend who build a 2ksf vacation house that can be heated with a match and cooled with an ice cube. It has three mini splits -- it's very open. Ideal for single point heating and cooling.

Most traditional houses in colder climates have too many rooms to heat the way most would like --- they also leak too much. Leaking is really the problem --- poor insulation can be overcome .... leaks create zones where temps swing.

My guess is you can never build back an old brick ranch to only use mini-splits.

Now --- taking the AC unit and making it a heat pump is logical. Nothing is as comfortable as hot water. Remember today there are both ducted and ductless (wall/floor) mini splits.

I have a big old suburban house that I restored and retrofitted as my office back in the 90's with radiant heat -- ductwork was just put back with straight AC. When I redid it again to make it a house for my sister we added to it and put heat pumps in to upgrade the AC units .... the two single story additions to make the kitchen and living room larger got radiant and mini splits for AC. The heat pumps can heat the place ... but, nothing is as comfortable as the hot water in rally cold weather.

My new place has radiant floors and a combination of ducted and mini splits --- this is my normal way now. (radiant w/ ducted heat pumps) The heat pumps can warm the place up quickly in the shoulder seasons --- the hot water is for when the heat is needed all the time.

I would keep the hot water and make sure the ductwork is both sized properly and most important properly sealed and insulated. Make sure the attic is insulated so the space is where the unit is placed is inside the conditioned envelope of the house. Don't just insulate the ceiling and place the unit up in an unconditioned attic ...

Edit: Modern heat pumps can and do work down into very low temps. I have been using the Carrier 5 speed split unit in my projects --- it's able to provide full output down to 2 degrees. Modern heatpumps produce hot air .... it's not the cold feeling air of older units. For most people common ductwork is what they have and heatpumps can work in many climates. In cold climates it's often wise to have some sort of backup ... often that's electric. For the most part in the USA ... mini splits are problem solvers. They are great to retrofit into an old house with radiators -- we have a guy in town that has made a nice living retrofitting large victorians with 8- 10 heads off one compressor. They are great as the owners get AC w/o window units and the ability to take the chill off some rooms in the odd morning w/o turning the whole system on. Mini splits also work well when doing additions to houses with hot water .... they can make up any heat shortfall. There are also many more people doing the ducted mini-splits today and manufacturers have come out with units that can do longer ducts. They still tend to be more expensive vs doing a traditional system on a new house. Many ranchers suffer as the length works against duct work -- this is where modern variable speed split systems can really work ---- Variable speed and zoning work so well. I always zone in my projects.
 
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yeldogt

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Living in upstate NY, our climates are similar. I have hot water baseboard fed by a natural gas boiler i just had swapped out 9-2020. this year it would have been 50 years old. And i have ductless mini splits for a/c in key areas of the house as well(I have NO room for ducts in my house)And thirdly, i have a Jotul c450 fireplace insert i had installed in 2013. This model is VERY efficient and i think is still sold today.

1. For primary heat, KEEP the hot water baseboard, just update the boiler like i did *if necessary*. If your boiler is 25-26 years old, it’s still fine if a cast iron hot water boiler.
2. For a/c, since ducts are already in place, update the unit in the attic, (as it’s highly inefficient and probably little life left)get the ducts cleaned up and inspected, and be happy you don’t need anything else.
3. If it’s your house, consider a nice small wood stove, or pellet stove to supplement your propane heat, or if you have a fireplace, an insert.

My home was built in 1971, with my minor improvements, my yearly gas and electric bill is VERY affordable, as i’m miserly when it comes to energy usage at home!!

edited to add:
i dunno why, but it seems like the same guys over and over here in the heating/ac forum keep on ******* on ductless splits about being noisy, being loud, vibrating etc. i have both fujitsu and pioneer units in my home, and both are SUPER QUIET. I dunno what JUNK these guys have, or are coming across, but any newer ductless minisplit, if made well, is and should be a ‘silent runner’, like mine. I have a 2 ton, 2 head fujitsu on a 6” slab, four inches from my foundation and its quiet as a mouse. I have a 1.5 ton, 2 head pioneer unit mounted ON MY WALL below my office and spare bedroom/office and i can’t hear it run at all. I installed everything myself.
Have run into the general lack of interest in anything new or proper done old for as long as I have been building. When I was redoing my 1810 federal in Philadelphia back in the late 80's I had HVAC people wanting me to rip out my old hot water system put in about 1900. It was sheer luck that I stumbled into a situation where an old timer working part time for an oil dealer in the suburbs came into town and had actually worked on my house when the company delivered to Philadelphia. He knew more about steam and hot water than the other guys forgot. It's the same today -- HVAC people don't know how to or want to spend the time to do proper load calculations. So the equipment is wrong from the start. Mini splits are dismissed .... heat pumps don't work in cold temps. I hear it over and over again. Most houses have oversized equipment with poor ductwork that is undersized ... at the same time we now have Variable speed equipment and zoning that will fix those houses -- but, most HVAC people don't care or know how to do it. It's easier to just replace what is is the house ... the owner has the same problems as before.

Mini splits are great problem solvers .....
 
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kelpaso1

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Have run into the general lack of interest in anything new or proper done old for as long as I have been building. When I was redoing my 1810 federal in Philadelphia back in the late 80's I had HVAC people wanting me to rip out my old hot water system put in about 1900. It was sheer luck that I stumbled into a situation where an old timer working part time for an oil dealer in the suburbs came into town and had actually work on my house when the company delivered to Philadelphia. He knew more about steam and hot water than the other guys forgot. It's the same today -- HVAC people don't know how to or want to spend the time to do proper load calculations. So the equipment is wrong from the start. Mini splits are dismissed .... heat pumps don't work in cold temps. I hear it over and over again. Most houses have oversized equipment with poor ductwork that is undersized ... at the same time we now have Variable speed equipment and zoning that will fix those houses -- but, most HVAC people don't care or know how to do it. It's easier to just replace what is is the house ... the owner has the same problems as before.

Mini splits are great problem solvers .....
That is somewhat true. When it is -20C here the Mini in my garage can barely keep it at +10C inside. I don't have a separate heat tape in mine.
 

Jackfre

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When the mini can’t keep up it is a combination problem as they are generally done on remodels. The equipment isn’t matched to the load and/or vice versa. At that point, you either dig in and bring the load back to the capacity or add a gas/electric heater. I use the Rinnai DV wall furnaces or at times a Rinnai 824 vent free.
 

yeldogt

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That is somewhat true. When it is -20C here the Mini in my garage can barely keep it at +10C inside. I don't have a separate heat tape in mine.
I don't know of any Mini split that has electric back up .... may be one out there. The hyper heats have pan heaters -- but that for ice under them.

The Mitsubishi hyper heats have no problem give full output under zero F. Believe mine are -5F. Working in cold temps and delivering full output in cold temps is not the same. I see "works down to 5F" on some .... that's fine -- except what is "works" ... what is the BTU output at that temp?

Doing a proper heat load on a building will give you the needed output --- if you need X at zero F -- you need to buy a unit that will give you that at zero.

Not all minisplits are designed for real cold temps ...
 

kelpaso1

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You can only get so much heat from -20C or -5F outdoor temp with a mini, it's not magic. It's simple physics. This "hyperheat" is just a sales gimmick. I live where most people have minis, but also have a wood stove for the cold days because the mini cant keep up. Unless your mini has a separate electric heating coil you simply can't get a good amount of heat from them when it is -20C
 

wogamax

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Bumping for Winter '23; $5 heating oil and $.40 utility rates. Otherwise going though same thing, but also want to share https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product_list/ You may need to register, but with model numbers can find the heat pumps that both heat to near capacity, at -13F to 5F, and how efficiently (COP) they do it. We need to get away from crazy generalizations. There's some great equipment out there.

Personally, with a heat pump hot water heater already installed and using about a third the watts of a ~4,500 watt element, I don't doubt heat pumps can do the $avings for our Boston area home. Mitsubishi pushes rated tonnage, these days, all the way down to 5F on the units that stay about 75% effective even at -13F. They do this at COPs of 2X, or twice the efficiency of resistance (up to 6x, at 47F). And like the "hybrid" water heater can ultimately use its element, the home's oil system is likely to remain intact. A second A/C only ducted attic unit will be the last 2 tons, of a ~6 ton system, sized for 3000sq ft. Experience shows 2 ton can cool the whole house.

I am down to search for how bad the cold spots might be (bathroom), if we follow through with a 2x18k btu floor mount setup? Yeah, MS's do blow air constantly, but two diagonal corners of a 2000sq ft downstairs? Anyway, I'm learning many don't regret their "backup" and appreciate people's candor. We may swap one of the wall units, for a ducted mini split air handler if cold spots get too bad in the adjacent rooms (D-rm,bath). The problem I see with some HVAC shops is they don't want the labor. "Ductless" can be a business model that compromises distribution for single-point horsepower. In a labor shortage, maybe I shouldn't be surprised. No one told me about ducted mini-splits, which are effectively mini-air handlers that can re-purpose vents, 2-3 rooms at a time. All going back to a condsenser feeding typical heads, as well. Just takes toil.
 

yeldogt

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Bumping for Winter '23; $5 heating oil and $.40 utility rates. Otherwise going though same thing, but also want to share https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product_list/ You may need to register, but with model numbers can find the heat pumps that both heat to near capacity, at -13F to 5F, and how efficiently (COP) they do it. We need to get away from crazy generalizations. There's some great equipment out there.

Personally, with a heat pump hot water heater already installed and using about a third the watts of a ~4,500 watt element, I don't doubt heat pumps can do the $avings for our Boston area home. Mitsubishi pushes rated tonnage, these days, all the way down to 5F on the units that stay about 75% effective even at -13F. They do this at COPs of 2X, or twice the efficiency of resistance (up to 6x, at 47F). And like the "hybrid" water heater can ultimately use its element, the home's oil system is likely to remain intact. A second A/C only ducted attic unit will be the last 2 tons, of a ~6 ton system, sized for 3000sq ft. Experience shows 2 ton can cool the whole house.

I am down to search for how bad the cold spots might be (bathroom), if we follow through with a 2x18k btu floor mount setup? Yeah, MS's do blow air constantly, but two diagonal corners of a 2000sq ft downstairs? Anyway, I'm learning many don't regret their "backup" and appreciate people's candor. We may swap one of the wall units, for a ducted mini split air handler if cold spots get too bad in the adjacent rooms (D-rm,bath). The problem I see with some HVAC shops is they don't want the labor. "Ductless" can be a business model that compromises distribution for single-point horsepower. In a labor shortage, maybe I shouldn't be surprised. No one told me about ducted mini-splits, which are effectively mini-air handlers that can re-purpose vents, 2-3 rooms at a time. All going back to a condsenser feeding typical heads, as well. Just takes toil.
In tight houses with decent insulation single point heat CAN work depending on expectations.
 

fitter30

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Jun 23, 2019
Messages
2,981
Location
Peace Valley,mo
Hot water heat is the best heat, quiet and even. Take a look at this.
Spacepak.com
There are sites for mid century modern.
 

Mzungu

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2022
Messages
176
Hot water heat is the best heat, quiet and even. Take a look at this.
Spacepak.com
There are sites for mid century modern.
The AWHP from Spacepak and Nordic are definitely options for well designed and insulated homes with radiant floors or the really expensive low temp "radiators" However, for the average house replacing a functional boiler system with one isn't practical (yet). For the colder climates You still need a backup system for the coldest days. Usually that backup system with an AWHP installation is resistive. I wanted to go this way in my shop which is way above the average for insulation and air sealing, but in the end it still wouldn't work out. I have the floor pipes roughed in for the future, as I am sure the technology is going to get to the point which this option will become viable for my application.
 

fitter30

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
2,981
Location
Peace Valley,mo
The AWHP from Spacepak and Nordic are definitely options for well designed and insulated homes with radiant floors or the really expensive low temp "radiators" However, for the average house replacing a functional boiler system with one isn't practical (yet). For the colder climates You still need a backup system for the coldest days. Usually that backup system with an AWHP installation is resistive. I wanted to go this way in my shop which is way above the average for insulation and air sealing, but in the end it still wouldn't work out. I have the floor pipes roughed in for the future, as I am sure the technology is going to get to the point which this option will become viable for my application.
Keep your boilers system if use spacepak regular system with 2" ducts if that works. How many feet of tubing, size and loop lenghts are in the floor?
 
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