To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Tom's Neighborhood Workshop

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
I'm just going to leave this here. https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Puma-PK6060V-Air-Compressor/p591.html

72 db. I know you might not think you need the cfm. But this will run a sandblaster all day long. As well as die grinders, cutoff wheels. Don't you have some rust repair in the future. Or maybe a trailer build or a custom front bumper. :devilish:

I was pretty shocked on the sticker price compared to what I paid in 2014. It is made in the USA. Speaking of that need to put on my list to change the oil in mine.


Bret
Goddamn you Bret. :ROFLMAO:

I really don't need it, I don't. I have nowhere to put it and only 1 220v outlet.

I don't need it.

I don't need it.

I don't.

Must buy more important things, like a full zoot half inch impact and specialty tools and figure out how to vault my ceiling so I can have a lift.

I don't need it.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

racer-john

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
1,461
Location
Newmarket, ON Canada
Goddamn you Bret. :ROFLMAO:

I really don't need it, I don't. I have nowhere to put it and only 1 220v outlet.

I don't need it.

I don't need it.

I don't.

Must buy more important things, like a full zoot half inch impact and specialty tools and figure out how to vault my ceiling so I can have a lift.

I don't need it.
Yeh?????
 

bdbecker

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Messages
5,564
Location
Iowa
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Isn't that the theme for Garage Journal? :unsure:
Most definitely. Here I am thinking I'm pretty well set for tools and some jerk on this site comes along and says, "Hey man, have you heard of Nepros?"

Could be worse. If you ever fall on hard times and have to sell off some of your tools, at least you can get some of your money back. The last time I checked, there wasn't much of a market for used beer.
True, but if you're like me and your regular is Hamm's, then no matter how much beer you drink it's not hard on your wallet.

Eh, I've always posited that you never really buy beer: you only rent it for a time!
Ain't that the truth. Amazing how one substance makes your bladder nearly explode whilst also making you drier than a fish out of water.
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
UPDATE

I have pulled the trigger on a toolbox upgrade.

The Lowe's sale on Craftsman boxes, plus the $250 gift card I was able to earn through work, pushed me towards the 41" set, in red. It'll be a great size box for me, one that I won't be outgrowing any time soon, and won't overpower the space I have earmarked for it. I might even be able to get most of my specialty tools into it thanks to the one oversized drawer on the bottom.

Stoked.
 

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,706
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
It'll be a great size box for me, one that I won't be outgrowing any time soon

Tom, I believe those are called "Famous last words." It helps if you have another building on site where you can keep the tool boxes you've outgrown and store the first generation Chinese tools that have offended you in them. At least that's what a friend of mine told me.
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Tom, I believe those are called "Famous last words." It helps if you have another building on site where you can keep the tool boxes you've outgrown and store the first generation Chinese tools that have offended you in them. At least that's what a friend of mine told me.
Ha! I'm sure I'll be eating those words sooner than later. Good news is the aforementioned offensive tools get relegated to my truck tool roll rather than knock around my toolboxes. I also have a "house" toolbox so I don't have to run out to the workshop when, like today, it's -14 degrees outside.

I've also got two growing boys with an interest in tools, I'm slowly getting them their own sets as well.

My old Craftsman box will have to stay with me forever. It's my first toolbox, one that my mom and dad bought me when I started getting into wrenching. I got it when I was 16, so 14 years ago, and I can't get rid of it. Not positive how it'll be used going forward, but it'll keep getting used.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,533
Location
Omaha, NE
Not positive how it'll be used going forward, but it'll keep getting used.

You'll use it to store the 3D printing stuff and associated components you're going to buy after you continuing hanging out here long enough! Remember...printers are 120v so don't give that "only have 1 220v outlet" excuse :ROFLMAO:
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
The lower box has been brought home and set up. Super happy I went with this one, despite the not ideal drawer layout. It's the perfect size for the space. I love the red, which goes with my trash barrel and air compressor, and the black drawers tie it in with the black toolboxes I already have. Each drawer is actually a little wider than the drawers on my single-bank, which is useful. The narrow side drawers are actually really handy for separating stuff that could use it's own space but doesn't make sense to have a full drawer. Not that it matters to me, but it rolls well on the casters. Really like the ball-bearing soft close drawers. This feels more stout than my old boxes.

1672073502090.png

Can't wait to get the top box home and fill it. I'm going to need to remove the upper till lid because it won't work under my cabinets very well, but I guarantee it would just stay open all the time anyway, so the only thing it does for me is take up space. I'm considering putting all my socketry there, but we'll see what I end up doing with it.

The drawer liners it came with are those crappy mesh ones. Need a different solution because those ****.

You'll use it to store the 3D printing stuff and associated components you're going to buy after you continuing hanging out here long enough! Remember...printers are 120v so don't give that "only have 1 220v outlet" excuse :ROFLMAO:
Oh God, just what I need. Another time-consuming and expensive hobby.

I have neither the time nor the patience to get into 3D printing. What I need is for my machinist buddy to buy one, then I'd be set!



I remember the last time I got a new box. It was full the same day I set it up lol.
@jollygreengiant, it took me a week to run out of space, at which point I ordered a bunch of organizers.
I've managed to move a bunch of stuff over to this one and not fill it, so it's going great so far haha!

I won't even have the top box until Wednesday, but I know I'm going to run out of tools before I run out of drawers. I'm keeping the boxes limited to automotive tools, while all the woodworking stuff is being stored in the upper cabinets for now. Helps keep the boxes less cluttered. Most of my automotive tools did fit in my single bank Craftsman set, so I know I've got some room in this one. I mostly bought it to not have two separate socket drawers and a ratchet drawer.

Going to make sure it's super organized before I even fill up the drawers too. Should help dramatically.

Congrats on the tool box! I'll be tuned in to see it in it's place.

While we're busy talking about spending @wreckdiver1321 's money, and he mentioned vaulting the ceiling for a lift, I'll throw out a ridge beam so you can go 100% vaulted ceiling.
Haha I've thought about that quite a bit. I do know I'd like to have more headroom, and I don't really care how I accomplish it, but there's a bunch of ancillary things that'd need to change if/when I do a vaulted ceiling:

  • I'd need to put a lid on my upper cabinets. I don't think they'd need additional support (they're screwed into the ceiling at the moment as well as the wall and wall studs) but I'd definitely need to put a lid on them.
  • The overhead door would need to be changed or at least have the track setup changed, because it's directly above the area where the lift would go. At minimum I'd need a high-lift door or something to that effect.
  • I'd need to re-insulate the ceiling somehow.
  • All the overhead lighting would need to be redone.
  • I might have to add more pallet wood to the east wall to continue the theme.
  • Probably need to thicken the concrete where the lift would be installed.
  • Once the new concrete is in, I'd need to coat it to match the floor, or recoat the entire floor.
That sounds like a lot of work for a lift. I could do something more like the QuickJack and make life easier, but it's still a lot. More of a future dream than something I'm thinking of doing anytime soon. Got plenty to do in the house that takes priority.

I want to redo the kitchen, remove the walls around the stairs, re-tile the fireplace, install a new mantel, update the guest bathroom, doo a glass door for the master bath shower, replace all the doors, redo all the trim upstairs, ditch the carpet in my office and the kids' room, and redo the basement. Maybe we'll see some of that come to fruition in 2023.
 

zc15

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
433
Location
SE Michigan
10-4, it's definitely more expensive than the cost of just the beam,

I used $5 yoga mats in my boxes. Made a template out of carboard, then transferred to the mats. Finish by cutting with a utility knife.
 

zc15

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
433
Location
SE Michigan
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
A few additions to the tool arsenal are incoming.
  • The top box for my tool chest should be ready today if Lowe's can pull their head out. We'll see. Not really their fault since the weather all over the country has completely mangled the supply chains. Not really in a hurry so no biggie.
  • Thanks to a big Amazon gift card, a few new things are on their way:
Excited for the updates and additional ability this stuff will grant me. I'm also looking at metal cutting saws but holding off for the moment. Probably should focus on some of the projects I have going. :lol:
 

nicholam77

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2016
Messages
2,659
Location
Minneapolis, MN
The new Craftsman chest looks great! A classic!

I tried crosscutting a 2x4 with the table saw to start working on building my upright cabinet, but it was like handling a wet noodle near a spinning saw blade, hence the purchase of the push sticks, but I also figured I'd get a lot of use out of a decent miter gauge with a fence in order to make more accurate cuts with some larger pieces.

Tom, I don't know how you made your cut, but "handling like a wet noodle" makes me want to regurgitate some best practices regardless of how you did it haha. Push sticks can be helpful for rip cuts, especially on thinner stock, but crosscuts should always be made with a miter gauge or a crosscut sled. Also, when crosscutting, make sure not to **** the piece up against the rip fence. If you need a repeatable stop you can clamp a block of wood to the rip fence before the blade, that way when the board passes through the blade, the off cut doesn't get squeezed.

Hopefully you guys had a great holiday and it looks like you got some nice stuff! I'm looking forward to the house projects in 2023. 😁

🍻
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
The new Craftsman chest looks great! A classic!

Tom, I don't know how you made your cut, but "handling like a wet noodle" makes me want to regurgitate some best practices regardless of how you did it haha. Push sticks can be helpful for rip cuts, especially on thinner stock, but crosscuts should always be made with a miter gauge or a crosscut sled. Also, when crosscutting, make sure not to **** the piece up against the rip fence. If you need a repeatable stop you can clamp a block of wood to the rip fence before the blade, that way when the board passes through the blade, the off cut doesn't get squeezed.

Hopefully you guys had a great holiday and it looks like you got some nice stuff! I'm looking forward to the house projects in 2023. 😁

🍻
It'll look better once the other part comes! Lowe's is now listing it as "delayed" so who knows when that will arrive.

So about the cut. I didn't make it. :lol:

I realized I was in need of a miter gauge or crosscut sled, so I stopped and opted to not do the cut at all until I had the right tools. For a second I attempted to use the rip fence but quickly remembered why that was not going to work, so I abandoned that and left it until the Fulton miter gauge shows up.

It was a good time, thanks! I'm jazzed for what's coming.
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Little updates since I'm thinking about it.

Toolbox top chest is finally in the store today, so I'm running to pick it up after work. Sooner than later (read: tomorrow) I'll probably start thinking about how to fill it and arrange everything. Awaiting some new drawer liners first though, big thanks to @zc15 for pointing me towards the yoga mats from Five Below. I bought 5 of them to use in all of my boxes. Can't complain about 56.7 sqft of drawer liner for $32.95.

I got some use out of the table saw finally, now that I have a full setup. I was able to start on the framing for my upright cabinet, and it's coming together pretty quick. I'm still working out exactly how it'll be built, but I've got a general idea. Photos coming on that as well as the table saw setup.

Oh, I discovered I need a new rip fence, or at the very least I need to fix and/or modify this one. The fence is bulged at the bottom near the clamp handle, to the point where I cannot make an accurate cut. When I feed in material, it goes in at a very slight angle before getting past the bump and lining up against the fence again, causing an angle in the cut. Not pleased with that, so I need to do something. I don't know if I'll be able to fix the existing fence (which has a blade gouge in it anyway) or if I should just replace. I have the hardware on the original fence, so I could theoretically make something... My initial thought was a piece of 8020 extruded aluminum. I think I could use that as a fence so long as I can get the clamping system to work, which I may or may not be able to do. I've also considered just a chunk of aluminum rectangle tubing.

I really don't want to drop the $90 on a full replacement, mostly because I don't really like the clamp design on this fence anyway. It's sloppy and doesn't keep the fence parallel to the blade, so I need to measure each end of the fence prior to any cuts. Trying to replace and improve at the same time. I think I'd be able to improve the stability of the fence if the outfeed end clamp was wider. I'm thinking a simple 3D printed part and maybe some metal bracing could solve this problem really easily. The feed end isn't too bad but might benefit from a minor mod. For now I've resorted to clamping a 24" level to the table when I need to make a cut.

*EDIT* Doing some digging online, maybe I'm overthinking this. In theory, I could attach some UHMW plastic sheet to either side of the fence using barrel screws and countersunk holes. Looking into this as a possibility.

Thoughts on the saw?
 
Last edited:
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Update to the update:

I can definitely do the update to the rip fence with UHMW plastic. In fact, squeezing the fence near the clamp while clamping the fence into place has the effect of pinching that back portion , making for a straight fence. So really all I need to do is order some plastic and barrel screws. Sweet.

@loganb @nicholam77 anybody want to try 3d printing an updated clamp from the outfeed side of my rip fence? If it was four to six inches wide it would be way more precise than what I have now, and may actually keep the fence parallel to the blade.

1673210964983.png
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,533
Location
Omaha, NE
Update to the update:

I can definitely do the update to the rip fence with UHMW plastic. In fact, squeezing the fence near the clamp while clamping the fence into place has the effect of pinching that back portion , making for a straight fence. So really all I need to do is order some plastic and barrel screws. Sweet.

@loganb @nicholam77 anybody want to try 3d printing an updated clamp from the outfeed side of my rip fence? If it was four to six inches wide it would be way more precise than what I have now, and may actually keep the fence parallel to the blade.

1673210964983.png
Have a drawing of the existing one?
 

nicholam77

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2016
Messages
2,659
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Hey Tom, I would be happy to attempt to print a part for you, but Logan is probably your guy on this one. He's got the CAD skills. And the better printer. I've only ever printed in PLA and I'm guessing you *might* want something stronger depending on the part design and the force of the fence clamp.

Oh, I discovered I need a new rip fence, or at the very least I need to fix and/or modify this one. The fence is bulged at the bottom near the clamp handle, to the point where I cannot make an accurate cut. When I feed in material, it goes in at a very slight angle before getting past the bump and lining up against the fence again, causing an angle in the cut.
I really don't want to drop the $90 on a full replacement, mostly because I don't really like the clamp design on this fence anyway. It's sloppy and doesn't keep the fence parallel to the blade, so I need to measure each end of the fence prior to any cuts.
For now I've resorted to clamping a 24" level to the table when I need to make a cut.

It's hard for me to picture where the bulge is, but if it's in a place that would ever cause the workpiece to be squeezed between the blade and fence during the cut, that's a bad thing. You really want the rip fence to be smooth and parallel to the blade for both accuracy and safety.

The modifications you are talking about sound good. While I definitely think you should make sure your setup is safe and accurate, I agree on the $90 replacement being steep — at that point I'd put that $90 in the fund for the next saw.

Looking forward to seeing the next cabinet you're working on.

🍻
 
OP
W

wreckdiver1321

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2021
Messages
1,039
Location
Billings, MT
Hey Tom, I would be happy to attempt to print a part for you, but Logan is probably your guy on this one. He's got the CAD skills. And the better printer. I've only ever printed in PLA and I'm guessing you *might* want something stronger depending on the part design and the force of the fence clamp.

It's hard for me to picture where the bulge is, but if it's in a place that would ever cause the workpiece to be squeezed between the blade and fence during the cut, that's a bad thing. You really want the rip fence to be smooth and parallel to the blade for both accuracy and safety.

The modifications you are talking about sound good. While I definitely think you should make sure your setup is safe and accurate, I agree on the $90 replacement being steep — at that point I'd put that $90 in the fund for the next saw.

Looking forward to seeing the next cabinet you're working on.

🍻

Logan did reach out to me about making one, I'm probably going to send him the part and have him make one for me, seems like a good way to upgrade what I have.

I'll have to snap a few pictures of what is going on, but the fence doesn't cause a pinch anywhere since the bulge is on the feed side. The distortion is really gradual. Biggest issue I've run into is accuracy.

I'm going to attempt to the HDPE fix and see what that does, along with having Logan print me the fence part. I think with those two things accomplished I can get pretty darn close to what I need. The HDPE will make the fence nice and smooth too, so feeding everything should be easier. My only concern is making sure it is flat. That might take some doing. Or I'll try making my own fence. The saw works well so I'm not ready to abandon it yet, and regardless of the work being done it's still far less expensive than buying a different saw. I'm only into the thing for about $35 right now.

We shall see!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom