Tools of Japan

[Bmxkelowna]

I love all the Tone ratchets, I have quite a few of them, would be nice if they were made in japan but still the quality is excellent and I use them daily!

 

[LWB]

I love all the Tone ratchets, I have quite a few of them, would be nice if they were made in japan but still the quality is excellent and I use them daily!

It's funny that everywhere you look Japan is stamped all over them but I hear they're Taiwanese made. It's all good. The quality is there.

 

[Bmxkelowna]

It's funny that everywhere you look Japan is stamped all over them but I hear they're Taiwanese made. It's all good. The quality is there.

Yeah Tone is sneaky like that, everything is stamped Japan but never made in Japan. Like you said it doesn't matter because they are still coming out with an excellent quality product!

 

[LWB]

Yeah Tone is sneaky like that, everything is stamped Japan but never made in Japan. Like you said it doesn't matter because they are still coming out with an excellent quality product!

This Blackhawk looks familiar.

Home Industrial Tools Official Site | PROTO

Proto Industrial Tools - Safety Obsessed

www.protoindustrial.com

 

[Andres26tnt]

This Blackhawk looks familiar.

Home Industrial Tools Official Site | PROTO

Proto Industrial Tools - Safety Obsessed

www.protoindustrial.com

Same manufacturer from Taiwan, powerbuilt also has them

 

[F-22]

Ordered a couple of those megadora impactas for friends and couldn't resist trying out a few more screwdrivers...



Man the Vessel Power Grip is something else! The handle shape and fit is amazing and the blade seems to be extremely strong.





TBH like the small one even more



Proper forged all the way.


Also got some Tone stuff.


They seem really well made. Hope to remember to use them when the time comes, but for the couple € they might save me once... Would probably be a really nice combination with a ratcheting wrench too.


Ordered the Lightool wrenches. Tbh they're not feeling that exceptionally light but I did not weigh them. They're wider than my standard length Stahlwille wrenches, but don't feel lighter. Maybe the 8 and 10mm, but the big ones don't feel flimsy at all. Certainly well made though. I think I might keep these in the car, not sure yet. Are these made in Japan? Fairly nice finish actually, overall comparable to stahlwille but the ends are even more shiny (though the box end has some grinding marks which stahlwilles do not...).




In the "holster" The standard acetate crystalline Vessel screwdrivers are so pretty too! Very nice grippy handles with kind of crystal-like knurling/grinding shape at the thinner end that makes you grip them really well. However, the Power grip is probably my favourite screwdriver handle now, it fits my hand perfectly. I can probably spin the Hazet faster cause of the thinner grip, but the Vessel seems like such a beefy screwdriver in comparison, even the smallest one.

 

[F-22]

And well... Had to know what the hype about Nepros was about. Ordered a 17mm socket which I needed, and a 1/4" ratchet. I think it cost more than everything else combined. Didn't get the ratchet yet, says it'll ship in January...




What can I say... It's perfect. Can't find a flaw to it. All the "imperfections" on the photo are dust and fingerprints, it's hard to keep it clean cause it's so polished. I don't think I have any chrome item that'd be that shiny. Photos online rarely show how the reflection is, so I tried my best here:



Amazing! Here's a photo next to a new Made-in-USA Bahco (probably same as snap on/williams), a slightly older but still really nice Snap On extension, an old beat up Stahlwille and a Unior.



Snap On is nice, but it's certainly not a mirror finish. Snap on has more "square" holes on the driver end, the nepros is a lot more rounded (which is probably better when talking about the max force, edges make notching effects...). But I bet neither of these sockets are going to come remotely close to snapping on the drive end unless used in an impact driver...

Really happy with it, but my wallet is finding it hard to justify haha. Easy to guess which one it is in this Unior set
It's also quite shallow/low profile.



Also seems to be chromed very well on the inside.

 

[GTO]

Nepros | Jersey Discount Tool

www.jerseydiscounttoolco.com

For Nepros...Ships FAST....has Vessel too

 

[rick carpenter]

I'd like some feedback/comments from users of the Engineer PH-55 scissors please.

 

[Qualitytools]

Merry Christmas Everyone

 

[Reed Prince]

I'd like some feedback/comments from users of the Engineer PH-55 scissors please.

I purchased a pair of these a few years ago but rarely use them anymore. I find the handles uncomfortable, they don't cut through cardboard nearly as easily as my SK shears, and they are not as precise as my Olfas. They perform both roles adequately, and I keep them in a tool kit in my trunk. I imagine they would also make a nifty accessory for a monster robot Halloween costume.

 

[rick carpenter]

Look what I found under the tree today. Vessel 270W-62 kit, Olfa SVR-2 (stocking stuffers for myself, our son, and our son-in-law), Vessel GS5P-01 & -03 bit kits, and IPS HLB-300 pliers.

 

[F-22]

Wish I could walk barefoot in the garage!

 

[honcho]

Look what I found under the tree today. Vessel 270W-62 kit, Olfa SVR-2 (stocking stuffers for myself, our son, and our son-in-law), Vessel GS5P-01 & -03 bit kits, and IPS HLB-300 pliers.

Nice pedicure!

Look what I found under the tree today. Vessel 270W-62 kit, Olfa SVR-2 (stocking stuffers for myself, our son, and our son-in-law), Vessel GS5P-01 & -03 bit kits, and IPS HLB-300 pliers.

Nice pedicure!

 

[Qualitytools]

By far the most exciting tool of Japan I have is my Makita TD172D impact driver, made in Japan (and purchased from Japan). Immediately out of the box the quality is noticeably better compared to the chinese made Makita tools I have. My first performance impressions are A++. I don't know what all power tools you can buy from Japan but I will certainly look for more Japanese Makita in the future. I have only had it for a few days but have used it to drive Tapcons into concrete and it was a dream to use. I plan to use it for light automotive mechanic use for when I don't need the bigger impact wrench but just want something to turn the nut or bolt faster than I can by hand. Can't wait to see what else I can throw at it!

Thanks to your post it peaked my interest and I placed an order for the same impact. I recently stumbled on a video that calls out some differences between the US Makita and the Japan Makita in the chuck and that not all 1/4 drive insets will fit in the Japan Made Makita. Would you be able to comment on that?? Thanks

 

[Odd-job]

For those double ended Vessel bits are you guys running these in your impacts, screw guns and drills? I came to the realization that the double ends are little too long to allow the retaining balls to lock in these bits into my Milwaukee tools. I have a couple of ball driver handles that work, but was really planning to run these in my power tools.

It seems like my options are to hack off one of the ends or resign them to use in my cordless drills which kind of **** when it comes to screwing.

 

[nbpt100]

For those double ended Vessel bits are you guys running these in your impacts, screw guns and drills? I came to the realization that the double ends are little too long to allow the retaining balls to lock in these bits into my Milwaukee tools. I have a couple of ball driver handles that work, but was really planning to run these in my power tools.

It seems like my options are to hack off one of the ends or resign them to use in my cordless drills which kind of **** when it comes to screwing.

If they do not work in Milwaukee they also likely won't work in Ridgid or Ryobi. If I were you I would just use them in hand tools or in your drills with 3 jaw chucks. Buy the right bits for your power tools.

I would be curious to know what brand of power tools they do work in.

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

Thanks to your post it peaked my interest and I placed an order for the same impact. I recently stumbled on a video that calls out some differences between the US Makita and the Japan Makita in the chuck and that not all 1/4 drive insets will fit in the Japan Made Makita. Would you be able to comment on that?? Thanks

I responded to your direct message but for the record, to my knowledge, I have found no inserts that don't work with the Japan one. Everything I have tried to put in it fits and locks into place. However, the tool came with a double ended bit and that bit (obviously works in the Japan driver) does NOT work in the Chinese/American driver because it is too long. But so far everything has worked for me. The only obvious difference to the eye in chuck construction is the Japanese chuck has a deeper receptacle than the Chinese one.

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

If they do not work in Milwaukee they also likely won't work in Ridgid or Ryobi. If I were you I would just use them in hand tools or in your drills with 3 jaw chucks. Buy the right bits for your power tools.

I would be curious to know what brand of power tools they do work in.

Something I Just learned today, those longer double ended vessel bits (made in Japan I'm assuming?) would likely work in Japanese tools (or at least something like my Japanese Makita impact driver) but do NOT work in American market impact drivers. My Japanese Makita has a deeper chuck than my Chinese American Makita. See pictures

Doubled ended Makita bit is longer from end to indentation than the American purchased bits also pictured.



Long double ended bit does NOT fit into the black Chinese American chuck but it DOES fit into the purple Japan Makita.



American purchased bits fit in both.

 

[Qualitytools]

I responded to your direct message but for the record, to my knowledge, I have found no inserts that don't work with the Japan one. Everything I have tried to put in it fits and locks into place. However, the tool came with a double ended bit and that bit (obviously works in the Japan driver) does NOT work in the Chinese/American driver because it is too long. But so far everything has worked for me. The only obvious difference to the eye in chuck construction is the Japanese chuck has a deeper receptacle than the Chinese one.

Thanks for taking the time to reply!

 

[Odd-job]

Something I Just learned today, those longer double ended vessel bits (made in Japan I'm assuming?) would likely work in Japanese tools (or at least something like my Japanese Makita impact driver) but do NOT work in American market impact drivers. My Japanese Makita has a deeper chuck than my Chinese American Makita. See pictures

Doubled ended Makita bit is longer from end to indentation than the American purchased bits also pictured.



Long double ended bit does NOT fit into the black Chinese American chuck but it DOES fit into the purple Japan Makita.



American purchased bits fit in both.

Thanks this explains it. Kind of wish the US market tools have the double end capability with the deeper chucks. Japanese efficiency with less material waste.

The deeper chuck doesn't impact bit retention I take it with shallower US style bits?

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

The deeper chuck doesn't impact bit retention I take it with shallower US style bits?

Not to my experience, I have had no issues with bit retention. I've tried many different brands (Bosch, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Warrior, other misc no name brands) and many different styles of bits (socket adapters, bit holders, nut drive bits, shock absorbing bits, etc.) and have had no problems.

 

[rick carpenter]

Y'all check out BZEUG's videos

and especially

for using American/Western style 9mm E6 bits in Japanese Makita impact drivers. For shits and giggles, I'm curious if a Japanese Makita chuck could be fitted into a American (Chinese made) Makita impact driver?

FYI, the Japanese 13mm bits are called Type A bits.

 

[Reed Prince]

I have Japanese Makita and Vessel drivers. Unless you use the impractical adapter reviewed in Bzeug's video, the base of the bit doesn't touch the bottom of the chuck well. In most circumstances this just means that bits have an unusual amount of play, sliding in and out about 2mm.

The problem I have experienced, at least with cheaper Vessel drivers, happens when you apply substantial downward pressure when driving a screw. Because the base of the bit is not in direct contact with the chuck, all the downward pressure is applied to the retaining bearing and it can get pushed into a position where it freezes in place and seizes the bit. I ended up having to use heat to unlock the jammed mechanism. I now slide the bit past the ball bearing detent if I need to use a Western screwdriver bit.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Man the Vessel Power Grip is something else! The handle shape and fit is amazing and the blade seems to be extremely strong.





TBH like the small one even more

Some years back when I first found out about Vessel screwdrivers I was so impressed with how well they handle, etc. that I purchased the complete set of both Common and Phillips.

Vessel screwdrivers.....they are awesome!

 

[F-22]

The small flat one is ideal to keep in the pocket cause it always comes in handy.


For regular use near my toolcart, I'm happy with the crystalline series, they're really nice and a bit less beefy than the power grip versions.

 

[rick carpenter]

I have Japanese Makita and Vessel drivers. Unless you use the impractical adapter reviewed in Bzeug's video, the base of the bit doesn't touch the bottom of the chuck well. In most circumstances this just means that bits have an unusual amount of play, sliding in and out about 2mm.

The problem I have experienced, at least with cheaper Vessel drivers, happens when you apply substantial downward pressure when driving a screw. Because the base of the bit is not in direct contact with the chuck, all the downward pressure is applied to the retaining bearing and it can get pushed into a position where it freezes in place and seizes the bit. I ended up having to use heat to unlock the jammed mechanism. I now slide the bit past the ball bearing detent if I need to use a Western screwdriver bit.

I'd be personally leery of the adapters also, due to the guarantee of me dropping and losing one at just the wrong freaking time, storing them, etc. That would be two things I'd drop into attic insulation or worksite mud and be forever gone. I'd have to have 8-10 spares myself! To have properly retained E6 and Type A bits looks like you'll have to buy both Makita impacts... or I think Anex sells dual Type A/E6 bits, maybe Vessel sells them also.

EDIT: I just saw the VESSEL Torsion Bit Holder with High Hardness Bit No. BH-14 that you could grind down the 13mm anvil to 9mm for western impacts.

 

[Odd-job]

I'd be leery of the adapters also, due to the guarantee of dropping and losing one at just the wrong freaking time, storing them, etc. That would be two things to drop into attic insulation or worksite mud and be forever gone. I'd have to have 8-10 spares myself! To have properly retained E6 and Type A bits looks like you'll have to buy both Makita impacts... or I think Anex sells dual Type A/E6 bits, maybe Vessel sells them also.

Well looks like I need to buy the Vessel powered screwdriver... Any input on the high speed No.220USB-S1U or the regular No.220USB-1U? Also looking into the Panasonic and Hikoki versions now...

I have a lot of Milwaukee tools, but the Milwaukee m4 version at $180 isn't giving me that warm fuzzy feeling.

 

[Reed Prince]

Well looks like I need to buy the Vessel powered screwdriver... Any input on the high speed No.220USB-S1U or the regular No.220USB-1U? Also looking into the Panasonic and Hikoki versions now...

I think all of this generation of powered screwdrivers are roughly equivalent, at least when it comes to the amount of force they can exert. They all look like they have the same guts inside.

When you have to cram a motor, gearbox, battery and electronics into a screwdriver handle, compromises are inevitable. I suspect that manufacturers are limiting the amount of current that can be supplied to the motor in order to maximize time between charges. Vessel drivers have an 800mAh 3.7V cell, which gives them less than 1/3rd the capacity of my Makitas' batteries.

As a result, these drivers don't have much torque, and that is the most common complaint I read in reviews. The other complaint is that they are too slow, which is a result of the reduction gearing necessary to provide a useable amount of torque. A bigger battery would solve these problems, but where would you put it?

I bought both Vessel versions. They have one now that is both high and low speed, but I worried that it would perform neither role as well as a dedicated driver. The slow speed one has a disappointing amount of torque and is... slow. I don't use it at all.

The faster one is used all the time on my bench. It's great for removing finely threaded screws from electronics chassis. It also sees limited use in the field. You have to "break" the screw at the start by hand when removing a fastener and give the driver a manual twist at the end when inserting one, but it has enough torque to drive machine screws most of the way. Vessel acknowledges this in their marketing materials.



The only time I've had an issue with the Vessel was early on when a Western bit got jammed in it after I manually torqued a fastener. I just stick to using Japanese bits now.

And I'm sure I've mentioned this before, but the Makita drivers I bought from Amazon Japan turned out to have been made in China.

 

[Odd-job]

I think all of this generation of powered screwdrivers are roughly equivalent, at least when it comes to the amount of force they can exert. They all look like they have the same guts inside.

When you have to cram a motor, gearbox, battery and electronics into a screwdriver handle, compromises are inevitable. I suspect that manufacturers are limiting the amount of current that can be supplied to the motor in order to maximize time between charges. Vessel drivers have an 800mAh 3.7V cell, which gives them less than 1/3rd the capacity of my Makitas' batteries.

As a result, these drivers don't have much torque, and that is the most common complaint I read in reviews. The other complaint is that they are too slow, which is a result of the reduction gearing necessary to provide a useable amount of torque. A bigger battery would solve these problems, but where would you put it?

I bought both Vessel versions. They have one now that is both high and low speed, but I worried that it would perform neither role as well as a dedicated driver. The slow speed one has a disappointing amount of torque and is... slow. I don't use it at all.

The faster one is used all the time on my bench. It's great for removing finely threaded screws from electronics chassis. It also sees limited use in the field. You have to "break" the screw at the start by hand when removing a fastener and give the driver a manual twist at the end when inserting one, but it has enough torque to drive machine screws most of the way. Vessel acknowledges this in their marketing materials.



The only time I've had an issue with the Vessel was early on when a Western bit got jammed in it after I manually torqued a fastener. I just stick to using Japanese bits now.

And I'm sure I've mentioned this before, but the Makita drivers I bought from Amazon Japan turned out to have been made in China.

Thanks for the feedback on skipping the regular/low speed. The low form factor is intriguing and am under no illusions about its torque capabilities. but can it do lag screws?

 

[Reed Prince]

but can it do lag screws?

It might be able to do a few, but I wouldn't expect it to show up for work on time the next morning.

 

[Qualitytools]

The problem I have experienced, at least with cheaper Vessel drivers, happens when you apply substantial downward pressure when driving a screw. Because the base of the bit is not in direct contact with the chuck, all the downward pressure is applied to the retaining bearing and it can get pushed into a position where it freezes in place and seizes the bit. I ended up having to use heat to unlock the jammed mechanism. I now slide the bit past the ball bearing detent if I need to use a Western screwdriver bit.

I didn’t know there were cheap Vessel tools and non cheap vessel, this is what I am trying to avoid is the bits or adapters getting stuck. Therefore, looking for Japan style bits and adopters.

if you can suggest non cheap Vessels please share. Thanks.

 

[Reed Prince]

I didn’t know there were cheap Vessel tools and non cheap vessel, this is what I am trying to avoid is the bits or adapters getting stuck. Therefore, looking for Japan style bits and adopters.

if you can suggest non cheap Vessels please share. Thanks.

I meant to say that I have only had bit compatibility problems with the relatively inexpensive Vessel tool chucks, and not with my Makita ones.

 

[LWB]

Scored a little Japanese tool box to put my shiny new Japanese tools in so I can work on my Japanese cars lol

This should be a fun project.

Colour change! The rattlecan paint job is done. It is a blue with gray in it. Rustoleum French Blue. Just have to order some rubber, wheels and assemble.

 

[F-22]

Sad times, my Honda oil filter ate my new Vessel impact bit... Used it in a manual impact driver. The PH3 bit seems to work very well, but this one (PH2) failed on the second screw. I guess it's a random material defect? I bought a set of these impact bits, and I think it only cost me around 1,2€ per bit so... I don't blame it too much, I'll probably order another one (or a few) at some point, the manual impact screwdriver can be really harsh and I'm really happy with my other Vessel stuff.


Got it out by welding an allen head screw on top of it. Somehow got the last screw out with a Vessel Megadora Impacta.

 

[rick carpenter]

Here's a little bit more on using 13mm anvil Type A and 9mm anvil E6 bits...

1. Anex has dual 9mm/13mm male ends on their AHMD series crosspoint bits (+0, +1, and +2) and AHHX series hex bits (H1.5 to H8). These would work in Japanese-made Type A and Chinese-made E6 chucks but the selection is limited. There might be more dual male end bits by other mfrs but I don't know any more than what I have here.

2. Anex has 100mm AEH-100, 150mm AEH-150, and 200mm AEH-200 extensions. The schematics in the Anex catalog show Type A chucks and Type A male ends. Engineer has 100mm DR-22, 150mm DR-23, and 200mm DR-24 extensions. On the Engineers, I see Type A male ends and what looks like captive ball retention Type A chucks but I haven't seen any Engineer schematics to confirm. To use any of these in E6 impact chucks, you'd have to grind 4mm off the Type A male ends.

Now comes the whack-a-doodle part. I wonder if careful lathe work might be able to machine dual 9mm and 13mm grooves into cut down Anex and Engineer extension shafts? So maybe only 60-70mm added instead of 100mm to the business end of your impact guns.

EDIT: Correction! Amazon Japan has close up images of the Engineer extensions and they have the dual 9mm/13mm male ends.

 

[mercucho]

Some years back when I first found out about Vessel screwdrivers I was so impressed with how well they handle, etc. that I purchased the complete set of both Common and Phillips.

Vessel screwdrivers.....they are awesome!

A wonder these Vessel.

 

[LWB]

Assembled it today. You can see the true colour now. I scrubbed the chrome uprights with aluminum foil and water. Not bad considering how rusty they were. I'll keep posting my progress until someone says "Uncle"

 

[Reed Prince]

My 1/4" wobble-fix extensions arrived today. That just about completes my Japanese socketry collection. I'm waiting for the 72 tooth 2525Z-160 to be released before getting a final 1/4" ratchet.

 

[Madjik Man]

My 1/4" wobble-fix extensions arrived today. That just about completes my Japanese socketry collection. I'm waiting for the 72 tooth 2525Z-160 to be released before getting a final 1/4" ratchet.

Awesome