High lift and door seal issues..

[PAndaemonium89]

Just installed a high lift conversion and ran into snag (literally). Turns out the outer door seal is snagging the window frame on the outside of the door and causing quite a bit of friction with this cold weather. I’m currently just opening by hand, but I’d imaging this will be a problem if I install an opener.

On my other door it’s not much of a problem since the horizontal forces pull the door away. Additionally, I installed the green hinges, while impressively do their job, they also make the snag worse.

What are my options? I was considering just cutting the outer top seal completely to keep the “looks” similar. Is there something I can put on the inside to keep things sealed?

 

[firebirdparts]

it's always something, isn't it? The geometry is, yeah, obvious. Inside seal is not possible unless you mount the seal on the door itself. You can try that.

 

[PAndaemonium89]

it's always something, isn't it? The geometry is, yeah, obvious. Inside seal is not possible unless you mount the seal on the door itself. You can try that.

Yea if there was no window it would work perfectly. Stupid window in the way. Bought the house this way, otherwise I would’ve done differently.

Is there a garage mounted product you recommend?

 

[firebirdparts]

I don't suppose there is one made just for that. I actually have one here sealed at the top, and I've got a door bottom seal on it. The door bottom seal is mostly available with a round cross section, but you can find a few that have a bit of a lip on them. I used something like this and I suppose it came off the shelf locally.

M-D 03749 Bottom Garage Door Sealer, 2 in W, 1 in Thick, 16 ft L, EPDM Rubber, Black

Buy M-D 03749 Bottom Garage Door Sealer, 2 in W, 1 in Thick, 16 ft L, EPDM Rubber, Black online at DKHardware.com. Our Windows and Door Hardware category offers a great selection of Weatherstrip products at the best price!

www.dkhardware.com

 

[Youngandfree]

Yea if there was no window it would work perfectly. Stupid window in the way. Bought the house this way, otherwise I would’ve done differently.

Is there a garage mounted product you recommend?

Piece of pipe insulation. I put a piece on the top of my regular door since there was a big gap across the top with the door closed. I just used silicone caulk to glue it on.

 

[jstroede]

Your problem is not an uncommon one. It can actually happen with standard lift doors as well with windows that protrude from the face of the door (or trim attached to the face off the door). You can try pitching the high lift insert back more (back in the day installers used to have to actually make pie cuts in the track of doors that they put trim on for the trim to clear the weatherstrip/door opening). That may require taking an additional cut at the bottom of that insert. The door will not run as smoothly through the transition, but it may help your problem. You do actually have some space between your window and the trim (in some instances I have seen that trim basically lock the door shut because when the door closes it ends up literally just above the window frame).

Yes you could cut the flap from the top weatherstrip too (sometimes replacing with a new more pliable piece helps as well). They do make top seal that is designed to attach to the top of the door. It is most commonly used by commercial door installers. It is available to purchase online as well as it can be rolled up in most instances for shipping.

Garage Door Top Section Dual Flap Seal

TS-14 dual flap top seal blocks drafts, water, and debris. Durable, flexible, and easy to install for home or pro use

www.northshorecommercialdoor.com

There are many different versions of this, but it attaches to the top of the door and seals against the header.

I hope this helps.

 

[PAndaemonium89]

Your problem is not an uncommon one. It can actually happen with standard lift doors as well with windows that protrude from the face of the door (or trim attached to the face off the door). You can try pitching the high lift insert back more (back in the day installers used to have to actually make pie cuts in the track of doors that they put trim on for the trim to clear the weatherstrip/door opening). That may require taking an additional cut at the bottom of that insert. The door will not run as smoothly through the transition, but it may help your problem. You do actually have some space between your window and the trim (in some instances I have seen that trim basically lock the door shut because when the door closes it ends up literally just above the window frame).

Yes you could cut the flap from the top weatherstrip too (sometimes replacing with a new more pliable piece helps as well). They do make top seal that is designed to attach to the top of the door. It is most commonly used by commercial door installers. It is available to purchase online as well as it can be rolled up in most instances for shipping.

Garage Door Top Section Dual Flap Seal

TS-14 dual flap top seal blocks drafts, water, and debris. Durable, flexible, and easy to install for home or pro use

www.northshorecommercialdoor.com

There are many different versions of this, but it attaches to the top of the door and seals against the header.

I hope this helps.

Yea I’m more comfortable cutting the flap off and applying something over the top than messing with track. It actually seals quite nicely against the header. The super cold temps aren’t helping my case either

 

[rlmartinson]

I am no expert, but it looks like those seals are really tight. Can you move the whole door further away from the seal/opening?

 

[jstroede]

Actually I zoomed in on your picture. You could probably pitch that high lift insert back quite a bit before you would have to trim the track. You have a pretty good gap there. Basically you could move one or two sets of holes back in the upper bracket and see if that helps your issue.

 

[PAndaemonium89]

Actually I zoomed in on your picture. You could probably pitch that high lift insert back quite a bit before you would have to trim the track. You have a pretty good gap there. Basically you could move one or two sets of holes back in the upper bracket and see if that helps your issue.

I have a 12” radius track that lines up nicely currently. I would be concerned about creating too much of an “s” curve

 

[jstroede]

I have a 12” radius track that lines up nicely currently. I would be concerned about creating too much of an “s” curve

No you don't want to do that much, but it would allow you to see if if would fix the problem. If it does fix the problem, then you fine tune the track joints and you have a solution.

John

 

[Zeke]

I am no expert, but it looks like those seals are really tight. Can you move the whole door further away from the seal/opening?

Why got to that much trouble? Move the top seal out. Me, I'd change out the flap in favor of a bulb.
I think it was already mentioned, but a shorter flap might work too. If they made that in silicone, cold weather wouldn't affect it.

 

[PAndaemonium89]

Why got to that much trouble? Move the top seal out. Me, I'd change out the flap in favor of a bulb.
I think it was already mentioned, but a shorter flap might work too. If they made that in silicone, cold weather wouldn't affect it.

What’s a bulb?

 

[Zeke]

What’s a bulb?

Any tubular weatherstrip. Lots on WS is a tubular or half circle shape. We just call it a 'bulb' as opposed to a fin, or other styles.

The seal is suppose to overlap the side seal, not be behind it. Installer must have been a rookie.

I was in the door and window biz.

 

[Youngandfree]

Pipe insulation on the top of door.

 

[PAndaemonium89]

Pipe insulation on the top of door.

I like the idea, but won’t fit my panel shape

 

[PAndaemonium89]

Any tubular weatherstrip. Lots on WS is a tubular or half circle shape. We just call it a 'bulb' as opposed to a fin, or other styles.

The seal is suppose to overlap the side seal, not be behind it. Installer must have been a rookie.

I was in the door and window biz.

Yea this was builder grade home that I purchased few years after it was built. There’s a lot of rookie stuff around here. The crank out builds as fast they can.

I just hired a licensed guy off Facebook to do the lift for cheap and get the right spring. Didn’t touch the seals or anything else.

 

[Skyman]

Might a brush seal be possible?

Steve

 

[PAndaemonium89]

Alright, took down the strip. The window frame is still catching the header. So the only other option would be more breakaway, correct?

 

[mcbane]

You could replace the outside weatherstrip with a 45 degree weatherstrip. Much more tolerant of parts of the door that want to snag on the weatherstrip. The 45 degree retainer can be used with EPDM or brush seal inserts. https://www.garagedoorweatherseal.com/product/garage-door-retainer-1-inch-45-degree/