Temp gun

[_brian_]

Anyone have a suggestion on a good temp gun? I have been checking Amazon for a while now and it seems there are a large number of random unheard of brands offering them, most with mixed reviews. I am not looking to spend a lot, so things like Snap-On's $250 unit are of no interest to me. I am simply looking for one that works, is reasonably accurate and is reliable enough that it does not break for no reason as some cheap electronics do. Have any here purchased any of the non tool truck options, and if so, any good or bad to help make a choice?

 

[GeoBruin]

I feel like the Fluke "2-digit" models (59, 62, 64, "max", "plus" etc) are strong options depending on the temp range and resolution you need. I have the 561 myself and while I love the type K probe for some things, it's admittedly a bonus and it drives the price way up.

 

[_brian_]

Oh, yeah, I should clarify me intended usage, sorry about that. I intend this for automotive use. Things such as temp before and after cat to diagnose catalytic converters, checking brake temperatures, checking for a cold cylinder, locating hot spots, watching for temp changes over time, etc. Having the ability to measure temperature via a probe for things like AC testing would be nice, but not really a requirement if it will add a lot of cost.

So I might say the temp needs to get to approx 1500 F or so. I am estimating based on the temps a typical cat sees. Precision is not really a requirement. If you tell me it is 700 degrees and it is really 650, that is not so critical as long as it is somewhat consistently off. So for example, reading one tells me 500 and reading two tells me 600, but in reality, the values are 550 and 650... that is fine. What is not fine is if the 550/650 actual temps measure to 600/600, 500/700, etc. The variance of 50 degrees I simply used as illustration, I am not suggesting that being off by so much is acceptable or not.

For many years I worked as an electrical engineer, so I am well aware of the reasons for quality in meters, such as Fluke being the king, and the rabbit hole it creates. In electronics, there are big safety issues to consider in addition to accuracy and other factors. In most cases, such precision is simply not needed and a bit of common sense (and choice of usage and application) can reduce safety risks, if not eliminate them. Just as above though, the key part in any meter is that it is reliable and does not "act up". Like in six sigma when we say I would rather produce a batch of goods that was 100% defective than a batch that was 5% defective. If they were all wrong, I know how to fix it as my process was consistent. I picked on Fluke again simply because in electronics, that is the brand of choice, like the Snap-On of tools, and for good reason. I am not trying to discriminate based on brand, just stating my thought process in selection.

@GeoBruin Please do not mistake my statements, I am looking at the Fluke models you mentioned now. Thanks for suggesting, I know already Fluke is a solid brand.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

It's not a complicated thing with modern electronics. I've used several super cheapos, and they all worked well enough to find cold spots in a radiator,etc.

Ive had this one a long time, since before there were $15 ones. It reads a bit higher, but eeeh...

Anywhere over that -150 price point, get a thermal camera instead.

 

[M635_Guy]

It's not a complicated thing with modern electronics. I've used several super cheapos, and they all worked well enough to find cold spots in a radiator,etc.

Yeah - I've been considering putting one in my kit, and HF's Ames basic one is on sale for $20. I see an entry Klein for $32, which doesn't seem bad.

Anywhere over that -150 price point, get a thermal camera instead.

Any suggestions there? The HF Ames is $199, but I see some smartphone-based FLIR units starting at $230...

 

[_brian_]

Fluke "2-digit" models (59, 62, 64, "max", "plus" etc) are strong options depending

I checked out the Fluke options, and that seems about my max, although I would prefer to be under those prices. It looks like Fluke comes in around $100 for the range suggested, some higher and a few lower. I did not realize that I could get a Fluke potentially that low, so I will keep those in mind as a best option I am willing to pay for. Now that I see the prices can get lower than standard, I will put a bit of time into deep shopping.

Anywhere over that -150 price point, get a thermal camera instead.

I for sure will not be considering anything over that, so the thermal camera is out of scope.

Maybe I could ask this... I notice on many of the Amazon "no name" ones that there are some stating a single point of read, 7 points, etc. Does anyone have experience with the actual significance of this? The logic makes sense, but I can see it potentially good and bad, but I am unsure without having real experience. I want to look further into some of those options to see if there might be a hidden gem. None of those brands are making their product, so who knows what might be there as a hidden deal.

 

[mike93lx]

Yeah - I've been considering putting one in my kit, and HF's Ames basic one is on sale for $20. I see an entry Klein for $32, which doesn't seem bad.


Any suggestions there? The HF Ames is $199, but I see some smartphone-based FLIR units starting at $230...

I bought a flir one for my android phone and it is fantastic. Low res, but it's plenty good for many applications.
I got mine for insulation and air sealing work and bought it open box on Amazon for only $128

 

[richfinn]

Raytek are a solid brand (part of Fluke Corp, and probably make all the Fluke branded versions), had this one 18 years, good quality tool

I will probably get a thermal imager eventually, but this has served me very well.

Just check the specs and pick a suitable model before you buy one to make sure it meets your temp range, I'm an Automotive Tech BTW.

There is a switch inside to toggle between C/F

 

[cherrybomb]

I had a car I thought I was having front brakes and rotor problems as you could feel heet with your hand after long trips and stopping. Mazda CX-9.My tech said $40.00 Napa will do,get me some numbers.The next time I took the 22 mile trip to the dealership for service,he met me at the door with his Snap-On,and my Napa was very close,and much cheaper.He was impressed, my car was fine,by the way. Good tool for travelers and people pulling trailers,

 

[35k0]

I have the cheapest AMES brand at Harbor freight and the most expensive AMES, they are within 2 degrees of each other the cheap one goes to 1200 or so and the expensive one ($50 or so) goes to 2000 or a bit more.
The cheap one is a single beam, the more expensive is a spread beam.
Both are great tools IMHO

 

[jayemm]

I had an Amprobe that closely resembles the Raytek above. It was decent but I'm much happier with the Fluke 62 Max + with it's 2 laser dots ( as opposed to the one dot on the 62 Max) that define the diameter of the area being scanned.I want to know the borders of the area scanned unless close up. I bought the Fluke when prices were better but wish I would have put the cost of the Amprobe (~ 45-50 $) toward the Fluke (~ 110 $ I think back in 2014) at the outset. Since it has adjustable emissivity that the Amprobe didn't, I printed out an emissivity chart to put in the case should I feel the need to consult it. The Fluke, like it's DMM brethren, has that higher quality feel and confidence in reading. One purchase that I don't regret spending the extra dough and I'm just DIY guy and not a professional who uses it every day.

 

[GeoBruin]

Oh, yeah, I should clarify me intended usage, sorry about that. I intend this for automotive use. Things such as temp before and after cat to diagnose catalytic converters, checking brake temperatures, checking for a cold cylinder, locating hot spots, watching for temp changes over time, etc. Having the ability to measure temperature via a probe for things like AC testing would be nice, but not really a requirement if it will add a lot of cost.

So I might say the temp needs to get to approx 1500 F or so. I am estimating based on the temps a typical cat sees. Precision is not really a requirement. If you tell me it is 700 degrees and it is really 650, that is not so critical as long as it is somewhat consistently off. So for example, reading one tells me 500 and reading two tells me 600, but in reality, the values are 550 and 650... that is fine. What is not fine is if the 550/650 actual temps measure to 600/600, 500/700, etc. The variance of 50 degrees I simply used as illustration, I am not suggesting that being off by so much is acceptable or not.

For many years I worked as an electrical engineer, so I am well aware of the reasons for quality in meters, such as Fluke being the king, and the rabbit hole it creates. In electronics, there are big safety issues to consider in addition to accuracy and other factors. In most cases, such precision is simply not needed and a bit of common sense (and choice of usage and application) can reduce safety risks, if not eliminate them. Just as above though, the key part in any meter is that it is reliable and does not "act up". Like in six sigma when we say I would rather produce a batch of goods that was 100% defective than a batch that was 5% defective. If they were all wrong, I know how to fix it as my process was consistent. I picked on Fluke again simply because in electronics, that is the brand of choice, like the Snap-On of tools, and for good reason. I am not trying to discriminate based on brand, just stating my thought process in selection.

@GeoBruin Please do not mistake my statements, I am looking at the Fluke models you mentioned now. Thanks for suggesting, I know already Fluke is a solid brand.

So I might say the temp needs to get to approx 1500 F or so. I am estimating based on the temps a typical cat sees.

1500 is pretty high. That's well above what the Fluke's in your price range can do.

I just likes at the more expensive ($60 ish dollar "Ames" from Harbor freight and it advertises the ability to read over 2000 degrees, and has a 20:1 dts ratio. It also has a secondary laser pattern that shows the area being measured.

If it is even remotely accurate, it seems like a lot of bang for the buck.

 

[mike93lx]

I had a car I thought I was having front brakes and rotor problems as you could feel heet with your hand after long trips and stopping. Mazda CX-9.My tech said $40.00 Napa will do,get me some numbers.The next time I took the 22 mile trip to the dealership for service,he met me at the door with his Snap-On,and my Napa was very close,and much cheaper.He was impressed, my car was fine,by the way. Good tool for travelers and people pulling trailers,

Infared temp sensors do not work well on reflective surfaces. If I point my flir at a mirror, it shows the reflection, not the temp of the mirror

 

[joel63]

Raytek are a solid brand (part of Fluke Corp, and probably make all the Fluke branded versions), had this one 18 years, good quality tool

I will probably get a thermal imager eventually, but this has served me very well.

Just check the specs and pick a suitable model before you buy one to make sure it meets your temp range, I'm an Automotive Tech BTW.

There is a switch inside to toggle between C/F

I have the Raytek model for about same amount of time, which I use for ac work.
Works well.

 

[oldwino]

We've been using a Riobi (around 60.00) at the drags for general use on the car, track surface temp, tire temp, etc. Pretty decent for the cost.

 

[BukitCase]

I have a Fluke and a couple HF guns, none would go over 1000 degrees so bought this one 4 years ago

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZBCU2JG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I like the dual laser, move closer or further away til the dots merge and it's (supposedly) aimed where it SAYS it is...

Hasn't quit in 4 years, fingers crossed... Steve

 

[Madjik Man]

I bought the $20 Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774.

My buddy brought over his $150 Fluke model.

We tested both of them all over my truck, refrigerator, house, etc and they were nearly identical read outs every time. Maybe 1* F difference sometimes.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

The kitchen I setimes work at cot a $15 one, and while the feel isn't as good, the results seem the same.
The 2 dots aiming the raytech are nice.
2000 degrees....most applications, it doesn't really matter once the metal is white hot, and probably comes at the expense of some resolution.

 

[no704]

Bought a high temp one for metal casting. Projects like 9 points. It’s useless on a molten pool on metal. Use a cheep thermocouple.

 

[unslow1]

As others have mentioned I have several and they range from well over $100 to about $15 and they all work about the same. Now that I know that I probably would never spend much on another. Just buy two cheap ones.

 

[richfinn]

I actually got my Raytek free with a Midtronics battery tester (they have a built in temp measurement nowadays)

I must say though, it's a very robust unit, I've dropped it dozens of times and it's had multiple soakings in British rain/engine coolant.

I think I've only changed the battery 2 or 3 times in 18 years.

I would be more concerned with the quality of the plastic housing/seals than anything else for automotive use to be honest.

Not sure how much they cost now, but I would buy this brand and pay a premium if it ever fails.