Recent content by AndyL

And they're all very different for how you navigate; solidworks vs fusion vs dassault vs blender vs freecad vs the list goes on; get hands on model a couple things just for practice - chances are you'll find a interface / way of thinking that makes more sense to you along the way. I learned...

https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/

I've just switched to not relying on the runout sensor (and put a direct drive extruder on so the pita extruder isn't in the equation) That seems like you have an issue in Z to find. Might check with the ender groups it's likely a common issue.

I used to run into this on my CR10... It'd be easier on an ender because of the single lead screw configuration. Think of where the extruder is - it's on the X axis carriage - so any downward force you're skipping the Z axis leadscrew- and that stock extruder is a pain in the **** to feed...

That's not how it works. Thats not how any of it works. Unless you've got some glass - that really throws balance off typically. You're more likely talking about a cable length issue. Installers tend to throw on what was provided not actually figure out the proper length - and very rarely is...

Y'all assuming it's a standard modern door in a 1930's garage are cute ;) I'd put a dollar on it'll be a knee knocker. Aka - post a picture.

Ballparking - 2@ .2187x2x22 I'd probably replace with a pair of .2343x2x30.5 - for 24.5k, but those might cost a fair bit more right now - most companies have issues with spring wire right now; precut "stock" lengths are more attainable than the 10' lengths.

Ok, you're missing inside diameter and drum size to actually calculate springs. So you'll need to measure the ID of the spring coil (broken one will be nicely accessible - usually 1.75/2" Drum size should be cast into the drums - usually 400-8 but some oddballs like 350 have appeared on some...

4x8 x 0.025 aluminum or chrome steel checker plate fits the bill but it's spendy... It does look awesome in the right applications though ☺️

Depending how much headroom... I've often theorized we could do an awesome residential multiblade. Each blade is counterweighted, chain driven bottom blade, interlocking so the bottom blade pulls down / lifts up the blade above. occasionally they use a fancy chain drive to make them all arrive...

Yup, almost burnt down a sawmill. Cut some damaged tracks off the wall that were welded on, all that sawdust trapped in the pink batt insulation made for good firestarter apparently. Ended up peeling the tin sheeting off the wall jamming hoses behind - it was quite an event.

675$ is insane $ just my opinion. That's about double what it should cost. Lube the center bushing on the torquetube - likely where the noise is coming from, just a plastic bushing that rolls in a formed steel plate - I like 3-in-1 there myself. Just needs a drop. May want to check it's...

3d print a replacement case ;)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364 No harm in throwing one of these on. Double check where center of the tracks lies - operator bracket is probably into stud/backing - which might not be on center - might be nothing dead centerline which...

My guess would be the pictures; fuzzy / look like beat to heck/rusty - yeah I could see no interest.