Recent content by Ben W

The structure as a whole won't be hurt by providing additional bracing capacity (i.e. 3-plys of sheathing when only one is needed for example), but the trusses themselves may. The bottom chord of the trusses may not be able to handle an imposed bending force midway between nodes (where the...

This is how you deal with a lateral load. Your roof acts as a rigid diaphragm (or beam on its side) translating the wind loads over to the end walls. The end walls carry the load to the foundation. And alternatively if the wind blows in a 90deg orientation (say from the south rather than the...

I'm not an engine builder, but have plans for the future ... if the t-case externals are rusting like they are, could your engine internals be doing the same? I'm assuming that you haven't run any oil through the engine yet.

Regarding the stem wall - my preference would be to keep all wood up out of the ground. Posts, siding, inside walls. They make some pretty solid PT posts, but the siding needs to be just about in the ground. A stem wall can keep all of that well off the ground. If not a stem wall, then set...

I'd go wood pole-barn. Since you're not insulating your walls, the wood deadens the sound vs. metal getting echo'y. Gives you more options to wire, hang things, etc. Generally more usable for the DIYer down the road. I'd put the posts up on a poured wall. More money, but it doesn't sound...

If they're using 2x12s or 2x10s then a plywood center is not going to be continuous between supports. So structurally it's not really contributing to the carrying capacity in the same means than a continuous framing member is, but what plywood can do is add stiffness. That's not really critical...

I'd suggest your statement 'without the beam deflecting between hangers' is not the right question. All beams deflect, but do they deflect more than what is tolerable? more than what is noticeable? more than what is serviceable? Why do you not want the beam to deflect? I'd be more concern...

Scrap the idea of re-using the 4x4 studs for anything contributing to the 2nd floor other than maybe bracing. Either install completely separate columns and floor joists as a standalone 2nd floor, or frame off the concrete floor similar to how a deck is built.

Agree with TRWham.

Love the hood/roof options. Thinking about using a CJ tailgate for mine. Mount the hinges to the building and rig a chain to hold it in place.

Totally agree. Your ledger board attached to the building wall is the key. Make sure you find the studs/posts with your lags. I'd use Ledgerloks or a GRK structural screws over the old style hex lag bolts. Plywood fastened to your first ledger board out to the fascia end will take the...

That's awesome. Can you share what printer you have?

The 2x4 board nailed to the tails of the trusses (runs perpendicular to the truss orientation) and what you fasten your fascia board to or metal trim.

I'd suggest you're over thinking it (which I need to be told myself all the time). If you want to modify it, do it for your own comfort, but not because you think they've missed something. Here's a thought - the 2x6 beam that you're talking about could be that size for convenience. I can't...

From your first post - I sleeved pex tubing running through the floor joists in a bathroom in ~1 1/4" dia. pipe. This way I could pull that pex later and not have to tear up a floor or ceiling. And the only downside I could see with Pex was mice, so I figured if the hoard got hungry I'd have a...