Recent content by Black Oak

Quote Folks have pointed out to me which brands are made by the same manufacturer , and most believe Pioneer ,Blueridge .and Senville to be close to the same units . Rebadged but all pretty much the same . IF true , Senville will be the lowest cost , based on what is included or not - based on...

Pioneer , Blueridge , Senville , and Mr. Cool( I believe) are all made by the same company in China . Senville however includes all the lineset and pcs. to install . If looking at those choices , Senville saves a little money .

where do you live ?

" Generally Speaking " , mini split mfgrs. tell you 10' minimum =25' max . Above 25' length you need to add some refrigerant , not something all that simple to do correctly . I'd locate the outdoor unit where it allows this issue to go away if possible . My last one was 41 ft.- I had a pro add...

The initial heating of the slab is the most costly , maintaining that level is less costly .It's t he on / off , up / down that kills you . True of both radiant and mini splits .

I'd seriously consider Radiant Floor heat in the new floor . There is no comparison to forced air . Mini splits are great for AC , but will struggle in the coldest months . Do some research on radiant heat .

thanks again

Male to male fittings and Nylog were used . This was a unique install - 100 yr. old log cabin structure w/ special circumstances . I would have liked to go with a one piece line set , but going with 2 line sets combined was really the only option on this old house . Yes , gauges were used ...

Thanks . Yes , I released the vacuum after 24 hrs. , install is in a few days . I also found the refrigerant table in the manual , it doesn't call for that much .

This is my fourth mini split install , this one is a Senville 24,000 btu . This is the first time the line set is over 25 ft. - its 41 ft . It is in place and holds a vacuum fine . 5/8" and 3/8" tubing . I have a pro HVAC man willing to add the R410A ( my buddy's boss ) . I'd like to know...

look at pipe insulation commonly used on water lines under the house etc.. I've found 3" I.D. at the big box store .

I have no first hand , solid info for you . I do think you must use the required larger tubing or your headed for bad performance/ problems down the road . I'm sure you'll have an answer pretty quick .

I'm in NE Ark. , and don't think 24K is enough . If this is a pole barn , 14' walls is almost double what a load calc. is using to give "sizing" guidelines - lots of sq. ft. You'll get your best results eliminating all air infiltration possible . How about rigid foam between the girts...

I'd consider more insulation if it's not too late . Add some batts in some fashion . A metal building in Texas is going to be a challenge to keep cool .

I've read " keep your loops or runs under 300 ft. , try to keep them equal in length " . OP said 500 ft. runs - he has colder fluid coming back to the boiler than is optimum .