Recent content by CHuDWah

Just reporting back - sorry it's taken so long but life happened. Anyway, I never thought about a sprinkler riser - thanx for that tip. I snagged one of these schedule 80 PVC from HD: a whole 47 cents, shipped free so I didn't even have to go to the store, and I didn't have to cut it. Put...

I need a male-to-male coupler to join two Moen shower hoses. Moen says hoses are 1/2 IPS and they do use rubber washers. The couplers I've found are all NPT. Will that work with tape and/or washers? If not, any ideas what will and where I can get it?

Thanks all for the replies/ideas. The reason I suggested MDF or melamine (admittedly less durable) is the slick surface should be easier to clean. Whatever top I use, I don't plan on painting it and even sanded plywood has grain that can trap dust etc. I suppose I could top it with thin MDF...

Thanx. I edited the post after your reply - what's your opinion of MDF?

I'm planning a 2x8 bench similar to this: The frame will be 2x4 but I'm debating material for the work surface and shelf. They're usually 3/4 plywood but I'm thinking about 3/4 melamine shelf board - it's cheaper and it being white better matches my garage. Another possibility is 3/4 MDF...

Thanks, all. Forgot to mention I will have a 2' piece of 2x4 left over that I plan to run front to back under the middle of the top for a little additional bracing. It also would be easy to put plywood/MDF on the underside of the top frame to make a torsion box - may do that. I really don't...

I'm going to build a workbench like this: It will be 2' x 8' built of 2x4 with 3/4 plywood or MDF for top and shelf - joints will e glued as well screwed. I won't be doing any really heavy-duty pounding, etc and it probably will never see more than 200#. So can I get by without a support...

THANKS! :thumbup:

Anyone know the dimensions of the Simpson Rigid Tie RTC2Z Connector? I've found pix and drawings but none have measurements. Mainly I need to know the height of the outside of the leg where the 2x4 fits.

The wheels don't match - maybe they put them on to make the wreck rollable. Still surprised they didn't take them - maybe that's what the concrete block was supposed to be for.

Paint the inside walls a dark color (blue, green, brown, etc but not black) about 4 feet up from the floor and white the rest of the way up. Concrete floor left bare and preferably concrete block walls.

My only "shop" is my attached garage so a bathroom isn't an issue. But my Dad's was a couple blocks from his house. It had one corner walled off just big enough for a sink and toilet - sure was handy. No water heater but he always had a bar of Lava soap. You only need water to make lather...

Thanks for the reply and apologies for the delayed response. Ceiling is R-30 but adding to it is on the list. Your installation looks really good. My door is similar to yours and I have a similar insulation in mind. I do have some questions. I understand you have the foil toward the door...

My attached two-car garage is concrete block with an un-insulated door that faces north. Being Florida, the challenge is keeping heat out rather than in. I'm going to insulate the door and I assume it needs a radiant barrier. Is just some sort of foil (Reflectix, AtticFoil, etc) sufficient...

Sadly, no Menards in Florida. Thanx anyway.