Recent content by CluelessPro

1. Unbolt the posts 2. Brace the roof (probably way more than needed) 3. Add some tracks from top of post to top of post(2x8 or 2x10). These would be on the side of the post extending about 2-4" above each post. 4. Put two new posts in front of the carport 5. Lift/slide carport to the new post...

I've got 2.5" all around in upstate SC and it does quite well. Thickness is really up to how insulated you want the building to be. A flashing of closed cell will make the building airtight. Each inch is roughly equivalent to R6-8. R-Value isn't really a fair comparison for spray foam...

For all the "constructive input" provided you owe us a review after getting the unit.

I've got zero experience with it, but I've seen the Arccaptain welders gaining quite a bit of traction in the budget "do-it-all" welder category lately. They can be snagged on Amazon for comparable pricing to Harbor Freight's offerings. They have all that also includes a plasma cutter also.

Modern golf carts with tires that have some meat are more offroad friendly than most imagine. You would be completely fine with a golf cart. If you want to test your theory run down to the local golf course and "play a round" or just "play-around"

I have an area between where we currently park our cars and the new garage that I need to have filled. The garage is concrete is about 4-6" lower than the existing pad (on the right). Long term my plan is have this area concreted and put a drain in between them with slopes down from both the...

Vodaland has a curve drain option. https://vodaland-usa.com/products/easy-custom-curve-beta

This is what I would do at a minimum. But based on your other reply it seems you may end up doing a metal ceiling. If that is the case, have you worked out the cost difference to go ahead a put the ceiling up and use blown-in instead of foam boards?

I like the fliptoggle brand at homedepot. They claim 275# in 1/2" drywall and 1000# in block walls. There are also some heavier duty options from Grainger. If you have access to inside the wall your options open further.

I think the main question you have to answer is do they want to pay to do anything. They might be okay just letting it go. It sounds like you should knock on the door and ask them if they want you fill the hole for $*** amount of money. I've dealt with neighbors being nice and doing something...

This could work, but you'll want to tie the new concrete to old I believe. Otherwise, you'll have them separate fairly quickly. Unless you're talking about new concrete over the entire drive.

If it were my shed, I would rebuild the roof or attach the 2x4 to the bottom top plate. If I were you, I'd consider running heavy wire or metal strapping from the outside of the top plate near every other truss while you have the siding off. This might settle your concern with pressure splitting.