Recent content by DaveInTX

Awesome, thanks! That's the kind of input I need.

I'm thinking through how I'll wire the lights / switches in my shop (30'x50'x12') and could use some advice. Planning to use these 8' LED light fixtures (probably 16 total) They're not dimmable, so I'll be putting them on multiple switches to be able to control the brightness inside I have an...

I'm seeing Milbank U7021-DL-TG-BL

This sounds similar to what I'm doing right now.... Some of my details are below: I built a shop ~75' from the house and need to run electric to it. Currently my meter is on my house and my house's breaker panel (and its subpanel) are both pretty full. I'm relocating my meter back to the PoCo's...

I ended up buying sectional doors, the (Amarr Lincoln) through a local installer - they've got the "residential" look (which matches the doors on our house), but all of the hardware is more "commercial grade", so it'll be more durable than my standard garage door. I haven't installed openers...

Thinking out loud - if I install the transfer switch at the meter (like jlv03 suggested above), run 4/0MHF from the transfer switch to the house, then run a second string of 4/0MHF from the transfer switch to the shop - I could call the house 200a service (because it's a dwelling unit), and then...

That's a great point, I could probably do that.... I just need to make sure whatever transfer switch I use can support two separate "load" wires (ex: double-lugged, or enough space inside the switch to accommodate T-connectors), since I'll be feeding the shop & house independently, straight from...

So the shop has been built and I'm getting ready for electrical. I've got a couple options in mind, and could use your opinions / expertise to see if I'm missing anything, or if I'm completely off-base. Right now my meter is on my house, and I'm planning to have the PoCo move it back to the...

Would this fit the bill? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BAAJSA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Valid point, and I appreciate the insight. I was planning on running conduit, regardless of using aluminum or copper wiring. If I run the copper (2/0), it looks like I can get by with 1.5" conduit; if I go with aluminum (4/0), I'll have to bump up to 2" conduit (per the Southwire conduit fill...

Thanks for the responses all! Your comment there is kind of why I'm leaning towards "Option B" (i.e. moving the meter back to the utility pole and running new wire from the pole -> shop -> house). It will be a bit more $$ up front, but I could definitely use some space in my breaker panel, and...

Thanks Mike! You know, I didn't think about that (running a second line)... I'll dig into it and see if it makes sense with my application. And my panel is already pretty full of tandem and 1/2" breakers, so there's not much room to spare. There are a couple full-size breakers left, but those...

Thanks all for the comments! My first post was (intentionally) a bit vague - maybe I can shed a bit more light. I'm putting in a new shop about 100' from my house, and exploring what my options are for getting power to it. Currently, my electric meter (200 amp service) is installed on my house...

Thanks all! I must've been misreading the GE tech specs - looking at them now, I can see that the GE specs do say 250 mcm - not sure where I was reading the 2/0... That is good to hear that the general consensus is that voltage drop isn't a huge concern at that distance. Ideally I'd be able to...

I'm just thinking out loud here, so bear with me... So a new 200amp service requires 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum - but if this 200amp service is about 150' away from the PoCo meter, I would probably need to upgrade to 3/0 copper to account for voltage drop, right? Only issue with this I've...