Recent content by dodgeram2500

You can not just run a separate pipe with Sterling GG Heaters. The vent kit comes with various gaskets etc for the unit which make it true sealed combustion.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34931&highlight=cellulose+vapor+barrier The link in the thread is dead now, but it is still discussed...

I remember a link on this forum to a cellulose website...I can't find it but it said you don't need a vapor barrier as long as the insulation is X" thick...or something to that effect. I wouldn't worry about it as long as you have sufficient foam soffit vents / roof vents. I just blew a foot of...

Could also get scissor trusses for extra height in the middle...being 18' wide you'll probably only gain a foot or two though...

I just bought this: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6391790&Sku=N247-1030 better than nothing i guess...what do the experts think? How long will it take to fill that 500gb drive?

My family and I did all the bullwork on my slab 2 years ago. Concrete was roughly $3500, rebar $1100, finishers $500, plus gravel, renting a packer a few times, renting a bobcat, bubble insulation, etc. Rebar was expensive because I went 1' on centre. If I were to do it again I'd probably go...

Another vote for concrete, legal or not. Would you get fined or just have to remove it when you move? I'd talk to the city and see if you can swing it. Pouring concrete is much less time consuming than building a wood floor, especially if there is a 'dial a mix' service near you. Most likely...

Don't forget to caulk between the foundation/brick so this doesn't happen again....my guess is your downspout was leaking a bit causing water to sit on top of the foundation then it froze....just a guess!

Check out the link in my signature for a slab-on-grade/monolithic/floating slab pour. I'm in Thunder Bay, ON where it gets pretty frosty. The garage hasn't moved. The key is a good compacted base and rebar. Think of a floating slab as an upside down bowl...As long as your base is solid hows the...

You could do overhead from the house to garage I guess...If it was me I'd hand dig a trench and lift the concrete sections with a 5' or 6' bar. You could also drill a hole through the concrete big enough for your conduit, then dig under the concrete. ...just a few suggestions...

Fittings inside the wall? I dunno.... I'd rather come straight through the wall. I will be bringing mine through the wall right at the heater so there are no fittings inside at all...just where it connects to the heater. The only downside to this is that the pipe will be an eyesore on the...

If you're just tack welding a nut in place I'm sure a cheap wire feed welder would work too.

Not sure about what the rules are, but I wouldn't want a hole in the ground below grade.....good place for water/critters to come in.

Buy / bum an amp clamp from somebody. Turn everything on in the house that you'd have on during max load. See how little you actually draw. How many people will be working in your garage at any given time?

I fix rail cars.