Recent content by forAK

Does it need to be detached? Attaching it to the house in your "garage b" scenario would be best for utilization of your space. You could have entry to your basement as well as your front door. You should be able to carry your roof line, or just below house roof line easy. Having Just 12'...

After seeing your inside pics of your garage, this would look and be the best option. Run the whole addition to the window and put a man door there as well. Peel the sheet rock off the inside wall to see how the framing is done and go from there. You have plenty of head room to put in a new...

Attached is my 40x40 stick built shop. It's actually an addition to a 32x26, I added to the front..... I've got 3 doors - 2 10x8 and 1 12x12'6" in the center to accommodate my class C. The right bay is the lift bay snugged up towards the front so i can still use the space behind it.

Here's 3 doors on my 40' wall. 2 - 10'x8' and a 12'x12'6" in the center. The corners and between the doors measure 2'. Minimal sheetrock damage done by the recent earthquakes we've been experiencing.

Dude - he was answering your questions. He is a fab shop and they're not industrial enough for him. That's it. :beer:

I have the same problem. I started back dragging my blade after the first snow fall and found that I have a lot less rocks to contend with in the spring. It's a real pain on a long drive way but it has worked will for me. It kind of smooths/packs the snow into the driveway and then freezes well...

I've been contemplating a new approach to my sewer situation from the shop to the main drain line in the house. I'm going to trench out the basement slab, provided I can get the right pitch, and connect the 2 under the slab. Since I would be going through all this work, would it be possible to...

This is the route that I was going to go. After having to clean up where the cabinet doors let loose through the earthquake, the sliders seem to be a better option.

Very valid point. A shop/garage isn't the tightest of envelopes to worry about ROI in regards to heating. Just look at the heat loss alone with huge garage doors and if you have windows. It's about comfort. Comfort at noise/dust/space saving/rolling on floors. I simply love it compared to my...

I prefer a 2' minimum. No matter what, stuff stacks up on the side wall and you'll be walking around the rig. I'm congested at 2'.

Maybe, but I don't recall anyone asking in particular. For me, my 40x40 added another $50 a month in natural gas. Was it worth it? Absolutely. I love it.

I'm heating a 40x40 slab (1600 sq ft) with it. My lid is 14' and I have it attached to a 32x28 shop. There's a 10x8 opening between the 2 shops and it heats up both, but just the 40x40 area has pex in the slab. If needed i can run the wood stove or forced air furnace in the smaller. Yes, I am...

I got the Challenger LE10 that has a a supposed 74" lifting ability. I haven't measured it. But when I ordered it, they had a 2' extension option for it (I didn't order it though) that will take it right to your 14' lid. I'm 6'2" and I'm comfortable with it. This link is for reference - not...

40' x 40' x 14' addition to 32' x 28' detached shop bought scissor lift at auction $2000 site prep and all dirt work done by myself with rented equipment $2000 concrete - $3000 pump truck - $800 - finishers $1000 lumber - $ 3000 framed by myself and some friends 2 man doors and 2 windows - $800...

I bought this fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IJV7Y6/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and built a 2x4 frame around it on the inside of the shop. Then I built a drop door 2x4 frame and inset a piece of blue foam and then filled the rest of the cavity with spray foam. The spray sticks the blue foam...