Recent content by JJohns3WG

Just pull the valve stems, drive around in circles in the back lot.

Surplus Center.com good prices on casters shipping can be much. If you have a heavy load the harder casters roll easier - iron vs rubber. The larger the diameter the easier they will roll over obstructions. I like to put two larger fixed wheels around 2/3rds the way under the load then two...

Crain Tools has a 6' straight edge for seaming floor covering, 1/8" X 3" X 72' I have a couple that have been around 30 years. Crain claims they are within .005 over 6' when shipped, made from spring steel. Good product around $100.

I'd be curios to take the cover off, looks like two flow meters probably just tied together with a T - which you could do with a standard set up. Just have to figure out the right flow rates to get the mix you want

I'd keep an eye on the industrial auctions. Might find a deal on one or one that could be enlarged to fit your needs, at least that way you could have a UL listed heat source.

Not a slip roll, but I put a drive on my bead roller. Runs at 10 rpm. which gives around 70 inches per.min. Its slow enough that you don't panic trying to keep up in the turns, a little faster would be nice on longer runs. I just remind myself shop time is good time.

I built a 3' x 3' a few years back, like others mentioned wanting to educate myself as much as anything else. It's a great asset to my shop, the main drawback is the size I rarely cut any parts larger than 3' however the sheet come in 4' widths so I have to cut them down to fit in the table...

I have a 6x48 Rockwell with the disk on the side, also a 2 x 48 home built knife type sander on the side of a bench grinder, it gets used 10 X as much as the larger one. There is a kit out there for adding to a grinder I think Eastwood might carry them, they were on the expensive side in my book...

One of the times that I will grab a face shield instead of squinting, long sleeve shirt or sweatshirt and gloves if I have much to do. I use whatever half worn out carbide blade that's in the saw and plan on putting the new one in afterwords.

These look pretty cool, I'm needing new ones in my shop just wondering if they work with standard connectors as well. I understand you wont have the slow bleed down just would hate to have to change out all the tools.

I'm not quite sure what your trying to do but it loos like if you started with a longer piece of pipe you could weld the ends in place then cut out the center. The other option would be to cut the ends to size then use a piece of angle iron to keep them aligned.

Big difference using Petrobond sand rather than greensand. I made these up a few years back, fit the 472 / 500 Cadillac motor.

When I start on a threading project I buy three taps that way they will never break. If you just have one it will always break halfway through the project at 5 o'clock on Sunday.

I've fought with a few of those, as mentioned cutting the guard off allows better access. About the time you get the tank locked down to something an a big enough cheater bar on on your pipe wrench you end up snapping off the valve. Another method I've used was to drill a ring of holes around...

One thing that has helped me over the years I always go through the cutting motion as a dry run. Make sure you can have a fluid motion throughout the length of the cut, If you need to stop and reposition yourself you will be better off than trying to to force movements in a odd position just to...