just installed one today using this part .....https://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/venting/high-efficiency-appliance-venting/saf-t-vent-reg-4-cat-iii-heat-fab-adapter-category-iii-venting/p-1458270069355-c-9520.htm?tid=8507577634077983929&ipos=15
I did similar didn't want heated concrete heating the -30 outside , I built a pressure treated box under my garage doors filled with styro with the top slightly sloped to the outside .
I would defiantly go r19 , and bite the bullet and insulate the ceiling with the highest r value you can afford then its done ,so much easier to do now before it fills up . I have made that mistake ,plus it will be much cooler upstairs in the summer months
I just replaced two 8' 2 bulb t12 fixtures with two 4 bulb 4' T5HO fixtures with reflectors I can not believe the difference . I plan on changing out the rest as budget allows .
how far into the cab does the engine poke , I have the possibility of picking up a Fargo power wagon I believe its a 48 . I would like to put it on my 1990 w250 cummins frame if possible , your build is looking great
I have radiant floors in my shop it was years before I actually got them hooked up ( your right one chance to do them and its not that much $) They are fine as long as the big doors are not opening & closing lots then a forced air system is also needed to quickly get the garage comfortable temp...
I have an Empyre 450 heating 1800Sqft house & 1600 Sqft shop with 12' ceilings I burn about 13 bush cords a heating season. House is all in floor radiant shop is in floor radiant with a forced air rad to recover faster when opening and closing big doors in -30 to -40 C weather.Lots of work and...