Recent content by KGA109

I want to open this question back up - after grabbing my angle grinder with a double-row diamond cup wheel, I quickly noticed that the original coating that I was trying to remove with the big floor machine, rips right off fairly easily with this diamond cup wheel. My intention was to use this...

Like I said I was assuming it had failed in some way which is why you were looking to re-coat. If it is perfect everywhere, they yeah sure, that would be a sign of good adhesion. BUT you still need to scuff it to provide a bonding surface for the new stuff. When the time comes I would talk...

Yep I agree too, I was just under the assumption that it had failed in some way.

Good info - thanks. I felt like it would be near impossible to get the surface dust completely removed without a power wash.

Yeah, PITA, but paint of any kind doesn't bond unless the surface is correct. In a little more detail - the small hand-held tool can be a 4.5" side grinder with a Diamond Cup Wheel. Take it easy - that thing will shred a hole in the concrete if you want it to. Use this for those edges and...

Ok that is what I gathered. Thanks for the input.

Brands: There are a few companies that are active here (and/or advertise) - check into their products. Just FYI - industrial, or high-end systems are much more expensive than the Rustoleum you used previously. Prep: Nope. Go to your local Home Depot. Rent their floor machine and their 25 grit...

I used a Diamabrush 25g disk with a Clarke floor machine from HD to do the majority of the prep on my garage floor. Now I need to do the curbing and stairs, then of course the corners and edges that the big machine missed. I have a 4.5" double-row diamond cup wheel that I used to grind down...

Interesting; those hard-faced disks are really aggressive and can eat concrete up really quickly. I assume you ran it at a low, controllable RPM? Looks like you used: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE46170-7-Inch-Surface-Grinding/dp/B00C66MX3S/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y and...

That's what I thought regarding 50lbs of flake. I did not think that was enough, but he said "it can be done". Their flake is $220 per 50lbs, so the price diff is huge. I like the option to use poly top coats as I do have other jobs coming up, and the temps are starting to drop as you eluded...

Yeah that is the step-up from the TileClad. ArmorSeal 1000 is their 100%-solids epoxy. My local supplier is trying to steer me away from that because 'its harder to work with". It's also more expensive. I would assume a huge company like SW would have all the resources they could possibly want...

Price is about $950 to cover 800 sq.ft. $1100 if I want 4 gallons of Rexthane for the top coat (to make *sure* I can get two coats down). And this only comes with 50lbs of flake (I am doing a full broadcast, and I'm not convinced this is enough). I have dug around and searched - I was...

Like anyone else that is covering their garage floor with an epoxy, I've done a lot of research. Concrete Coatings, Inc. led me to my local distributor of their (expensive) product and because of that, this local business directed me toward Sherwin Williams Tile Clad (Tile Clad base / Rexthane...

Yep. The 10 blade, 25g Diamabrush. I used it both wet and dry. Wet wasn't a revelation like that guy described. I may keep grinding on it today/tonight yet but I really believe I have a good surface as it is. I have a pretty solid background in automotive painting so I have a good...

The machine is just a Clarke floor sander. This morning I grabbed a new 65# bucket of joint compound and put that on top of the machine. It actually balanced perfect and probably doubled the efficiency of the sander. I worked on it all morning and just recently finished up. there are still...