Recent content by manoweb

Oh we are onto something here... yeah of course I believe virtually every pressure switch for this class of compressor have a builtin unloader valve... I need to inspect how that tab works. And of course, it has to be a momentary action like you describe

Hello, if you say this, it means you really have no idea what I was asking. If I wanted to bypass the pressure switch I would have simply bypassed it

Yeah I often release pressure to start it but it's a waste of energy and time. And yes, it's the "CENTRAL PNEUMATIC 60 gallon 5 HP 165 PSI Two Stage Air Compressor (Item 93274 / 62299 / 96598)" a very, very common compressor (pump is Made in Italy) I thought there would be pressure switches...

Hello, I have a common 5HP, 60gal dual stage compressor. I recently swapped the pressure switch because it got "sticky". No big deal, less than 30$ from amazon same day delivery and few minutes to connect it. I was wondering - my compressor stops pumping at 165PSI and starts again at around...

OK I placed an order for a 21/32" drill and a 3/4"-10 tap set. The fine threads in unknown quality cast material were bothering me after I did some more research so I'll size up and go coarse. In fact I'm going to save some money as 3/4 coarse hardware is more common

But fine thread is often recommended for vibration, and yes fine has less shear area but has more threads per unit of length so it should compensate? I understand that the base material is the limit here

yeah the original stripped hole was already too big to tap drill for 5/8-11. I could drill it out again for 3/4-10...

The originals were coarse. I decided to go fine because the next size up of the stripped holes matched a fine thread. Fine threads are typically easier to tap (as I will have to do it by hand from under the tractor, I was trying to maximize my chances of success) and should have some advantages...

I did not think about using a stud, I am not sure what would be the advantage over bolts. These four bolts are just used to fix a plate in place, that it not very unwieldy; the bottom of the front loader attachment then bolts to this plate.

I figured that the hole I'd drill for the helicoil is exactly the same I could drill for a new bigger bolt. As I am not restricted by the size of the bolt I thought I'd save the helicoil process and go directly with a bigger bolt.

I see, yeah, those look like the right tool for the job if one is willing to pay up

The follow up question is, once I cut new threads, if I buy grade 8 bolts will I be able to apply all the nominal torque, that for this size is 180ft*lbs (that should result in a clamp load of around 23k lbs) without stripping the threads in the cast part?

I had planned to do that but there is no machined surface and the holes go into a cast, curved part. I desisted from using a block. There is no doubt that it broke because the setup is less than ideal, but the fact remains that it was grabbing so much that it made the whole experience really...

I believe that I should do what is presented in this video, correct?

Well in this case it got so bad that I couldn't realistically continue using this tractor. Something would have broke as the bottom mount was essentially completely loose.