Recent content by maverick302

Is there a benefit to using geotextile beneath where the slab goes? It would be placed beneath the stone like so: Slab ———————— 2A modified stone, 6-10” ———————— Geotextile fabric ———————— Prepped dirt pad Seems there are some conflicting opinions on this. I believe the purpose is so the...

Do you wish you had the few extra inches to stand without hunching? Or are you generally fine with just using the stool all the time?

Max lift height takes risers into account, so doesn’t do you much good if you need to lift a car without them. “Rise height” is highest minus lowest height, regardless of pad/riser. So assuming you can get the pads to touch the car while the lift arms are all the way down, that’s the best you’ll...

I’ve never used a lift in my life. I’m comparing specs of 2-post lifts, and even the extended-height models usually have “rise” dimensions of 73-76”. I’m 78” tall. That means that I’ll have to hunch over to get under a vehicle at full height, right? I found a challenger lift with an 84” rise...

That’s Conestoga, correct?

Hoping I can get more of a feedback-driven selection.

I'm looking to get a 40x60x18 built on my residence. I've reached out to Pioneer, Morton, Conestoga, Shirk, and A&E. The first 4 are pole barn only, A&E quoted a nice block and stick build. Does anyone have a suggestion for quality builders in the SE PA area? Lots of people mention Amish...

For the top, you could use a piece of insulation on the ceiling as a cloud. A diffuser of some sort would also serve to cut down on noise escaping the top. Check out GIK acoustics for some ideas.

We had the well water tested, came back with traces of lead and copper, and a slightly low pH (6.11). Doing some research, the EPA suggests pH between 6.5 and 8.5. The acidity can supposedly cause the metals in the water via plumbing corrosion. There are point-of-entry neutralizing systems...

That is awesome! I'll definitely look for your thread on that. We won't be climate controlling. 100% waterproof inside isn't really the goal, just enough to avoid recurring wetting and the resultant mold/mildew/rot. Like @CraigStu said, water getting under the shingles can ruin even PT plywood...

Pool noodle isn't a bad idea, and would probably take care of 95% of the water problem. I used TABs (treehouse attachment bolts) as they are supposed to minimize damage to the tree. I'm trying to avoid as much physical damage as possible to keep the tree healthy

Floor is PT ply, currently just a clearance hole cut around the trunk. We'll likely put in outdoor carpet or something as a flooring material. I was considering foam to fill the gap, since it doesn't really need to be watertight. Depending on the roof solution it probably shouldn't be watertight...

I'm partway through a treehouse build and will be getting started on the roof soon. Just to set expectations I'm a complete rookie at new construction. The plan is PT plywood sheathing, felt, asphalt shingles, and drip edging. The tree runs through the center of the structure and therefore there...

I have a MAC Tech 1000 I got used with stiff drawers on the right side, particularly the few at the top. I took out all the drawers, thoroughly cleaned the slides, and put them back in one at a time. The drawers slide fine until ALL the drawers are back in, and then the detent gets super stiff...

Yeah I'm kinda worried the Edge would be a Waterloo Craftsman with lipstick at 5x the price.