Recent content by michaelrc51

I have a black KRL7023 with SS top and matching hutch I am gonna put up for sale. I am in central NJ area, PM me if interested. Here is the KRL ..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would go with option #2 but having 2 separate services also has lots of benefits. I know, as mentioned above, you will pay more in fees with 2 services. But, going to a 400amp panel will also incur extra monthly fees. The only big advantage of having a 400amp panel in your shop is the...

Bump.....still have it and would like to sell.....$3k Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used sanded plywood and then sheets of 3/16" of ABS plastic 4' up from the floor. Probably not the cheapest but silicon the seems and paint the plywood and you barely see anything. The plastic held up great and looked good as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, you'll need bigger wheels. Also, we did the same thing with a nice old workbench and one feature we put on it that really works great is putting outlets around it. We put quad receptacles around it and piped to each one and then put a nice heavy duty extension cord coming of one to plug...

Yeah, same here. I chose the KRL for a reason. OP- the difference between the 7 and 1 series is about 7" in height. The 1 series is taller cause they added a drawer across the top over the 7 series. Personally, I like the height of the 7 series much better.

I would suggest a KRL. I picked up a KRL7023 for $3500 and got the matching black hutch recently for $1800. Much better than spending $9600 box + $3600 hutch + $1k for stainless top. They are all over craigslist and ebay, you just have to be patient and you can pick them up for good prices. I...

I am with this guy. Cut your holes where you want your outlets then just drill a 1" hole through the top plate and snake the wire down.

That is how most floor safes are done. Also, the flange on the back of the steel container should stick out past the container to give it added strength to keep the container in the floor. IF there is a vulnerability of a floor safe it would have to be in the door.

Sounds like a Mas Hamilton lock If that is the case you are ok. A pic would help, now you have interested me? It would help if your buddy put some hard plate in front of the lock

Sounds good. Personally the only thing I would worry about is that electronic lock. It depends on the model but some are spring loaded, meaning you could push the bolt back in with something. Your door being 3/8" steel can be drilled pretty easily. Depending on the lock, I could get in there...

The door is a piece of steel?

Sounds like a decent safe. Is it an AMSEC?

Yes, a jewelers safe is usually a TRTL30x6 or TRTL60. The latter are very uncommon but they are out there. I didn't mention these because they are way to expensive, they are only used in jewelers, control drug safes, and real high security areas. Just to give you an idea, that rating means that...

Lol [emoji4]