Recent content by Monza Harry

My problem is with the tone of "I am better than you" posters! I wrote I wasn't sure but "Originally" both may have been hot! In 1930 most houses didn't have any electrical service. When my father was just moving out on his own the parcel of land he purchased in the early 1950's didn't have...

By the '60's those were powered off of a 3 wire system with a neutral, however those were originally a two wire system, and I did state that I wasn't 100% sure that was actually that way, that predates my birth so I couldn't check one to know for certain. Look at this board and the confusion the...

The knob and tube I've removed was all 10G or bigger and there was 1 ft. or more (most were 2') between the conductors all of the take off circuits were soldered and taped with more of the knitted (?) Tube dlid over the connection. Major safety issue to me was touching a live wire in the attic...

Rule of thumb for HP is ~5A @ 240V is 1 HP so 15A (+/-) @240V is ~3 HP, that is doable with a HD wall type switch [as you are using/sourced). And illuminated/pilot lighted at those amps and voltage will get hard/expensive to find! My 5HP is 26.4 FLA as an example. Harry

4x Speed on YouTube? I bet you will get some hits! A bigger pump will speed things up, but that will need bigger motor and plumbing. 😪 Harry Edit: HF jack stands?

Here you are not allowed a repair in the pipe, no connections period from the valve connection to the water meter. And with the age of the existing line even if a patch was allowed it would be a band-aid on a bullet hole at best! Seeing the tech the plumber has quoted and post C-19 pricing...

Do you have much success with wooden projects? You could build your own that look like @iagsxr posted, make them in sizes that fit your sets/needs, cut the 1½"/side longer to add handles for portability. Spade bits will do this, but Fostner bits will likely be prettier but not absolutely...

For batteries I'm still a little old fashioned [HUGE surprise I know]. For that application I'd go like @InsanePyro listed above or bigger! I would add a (small) solar charger (secondary) and potentially solar/wind back up on top of that. A properly sized on- line electric trickle...

I'm not understanding the problem here, a 5HP compressor should have a magnetic starter, and then the control wire that goes to the pressure switch is interrupted and all that is required is a normal wall switch, you will need to check the voltage though, most will be line voltage, [240V in your...

Check with a noncontact voltage sensor/test light even after the breaker is flipped, I've seen/felt problems with unknowing "electricians" (self proclaimed type) work, potential for permanent injury goes up significantly while on a ladder at height! The rest looks ok to me but I'm NOT a licensed...

I do not like the tape and dope approach at all. The proper dope is the answer. The 545, 567, and 590 are all pretty good but for stubborn leaks I use Loctite 577. I took a quick look at the "Henkel" site and without opening the MSDS's I didn't see the upper temp rating for any of these, and...

@ntsqd Where the #€!! did you find a hot tank in the last 10-15 years? I just don't see the same results from a hotwater power washer in a 55 gallon drum (the modern day environmently friendly replacement- ish]. Harry

Yes top down is the most common, but bottom up presses aren't all that unusual. I've used a few over the years [mould spotting presses] you just have to get used to the equipment supplied, or in your case that you bought. I don't see how bottom up would pose much of an obstacle to most press...

I thought those were 2"NPT threads, been awhile since I've dealt with one though (on the bottom drain). Harry

Washer output is pumped not gravity, so no floor work is required. That can all be in the walls to the sink drain, What size that needs to be IDK, 2"+ (?). The washer could also go to the shower drain as it is right there and can be sized as needed (3-4"?). You don't show a shower location so...