Recent content by mrhemi426

I have two square post lifts I have been using daily for years. Not bolted down. My shop floor slopes 1" from front to rear of the lift, all within the manufacturer's specs. (Advantage and Widfire). No need to level the treads when on the safety locks at 1" slope. BUT what is important is to...

Metal is the only way to go. It has been a few years since our home was built, but at the time cost of completing the shop in sheet metal (Vic-West I believe) was comparable to drywall installed, taped / mudded and painted. I do not find any acoustic issues once there is stuff in the space.

Our 3 car garage / workshop is attached to the home. Two steps down from the front entry way. Now, the 2 car "garden shed" is about 20 steps from the attached garage. No garden **** allowed in my workshop.

I just use a 1 ton come-along and appropriate rigging on the rare occasion I need to winch a car onto the lift.

In my previous garage/shop I did something similar to what you are contemplating. The solid/sturdy bench was constructed of 2x6's 16' across the back wall. These were placed over big box store cabinets. I had a sheet metal shop bend up bench tops from galvanized sheet metal to place over the...

If they are smaller than 1/4 20, you should be using purple Loctite for small screws and fasteners.

OP, not sure what building code requirements you have in your area, but I will relate my experiences and opinion based of what I did for my house & shop approx. 12 years ago. I have radiant infloor heat in both the basement and the shop floors. Since by our applicable building code, a vapour...

My shop is 26' x 48'. I built it with radiant infloor heat. After being in the home for a couple of years the humidity in the shop became a problem, both for comfort and for the well being of my tools and car collection. I now have a Mitsubishi mini-split (cooling only) in the shop that works...

My shop / garage is very similar to the OP's proposal' albeit attached to the house. Regarding floor drains, I put one in each bay for the reasons the OP mentions. In the dry months of the year, the traps would dry out and emit a stench (connected to the storm drain, NOT the sanitary). I finally...

I live in Ontario. My 26' x48' attached garage interior is finished with sheet metal siding. It met building code in 2014. At the time, it was comparable to finished and painted drywall price wise.

Check if you have Amish or Mennonite communities near you. I have seen diesel powered (kick start) compressors in their work shops. Lister comes to mind as a manufacturer, but the communities may be able to recommend a source.

Back in the day we could buy it. It was called "Stumpin' Powder". No Wiley E required.

This reminds me of years back when a friend was going to build a new garage. There was a single car garage in the way that needed to be torn down. He advertised it "free" if you tore it down. First guy that responded backed his pickup into the garage, fastened some 4x4's across the truck box...

When I built my shop, after lessons learned from previous episodes, I went with fixed stairs. Closed in the area beneath to make a closet for riding gear, empties storage etc.

I stack mine in the most appropriate order.