Recent content by Murphy4570

You don't use a drill chuck to perform milling operations. Not designed for side loading. Do not chuck end mills in a drill chuck unless you're just doing plunging operations. The drill press quill bearings aren't designed for side loads either. If you want to do milling operations, you would...

I have one of those that is doing the same thing. I was going to just make a hook mechanism to hold the lever in the engaged position. That's the backgear that engages the spindle bull gears for speed reduction IIRC.

Yeah, nope. You need a LOT of air to power a good 3/4 impact. 1/2" hose whip to 3/4" hose with 3/4 NPT fittings like Chicago, Bowes/Grip-Lock or other industrial fittings. Look at the CFM requirements, that'll clue you in. Sustained air flow is what is needed. 100psi of air through a 3/8 hose...

I prefer using the tape myself. No mess and shelf life is damn near forever.

I agree with others about getting a Bridgeport. You can find an old J-head model for $800-1500 usually. There's one near me with a Vari-Drive head that I might pull the trigger on soon...

I bought a cheap one from Pep-Boys many years ago. Still have it, thought I have welded together bolts to make custom adapters for it. It isn't something where you need the top dollar one.

You must never have worked with a lot of engineers. There are good ones and bad ones, just like everything else in life. There are also engineers that are absolute KILLER with mathematics, but are terrible with hands-on work. Two different skill-sets. I've no dog in this hunt at all either, but...

Yeah that's a toolmaker's or machinist vise. It is meant to be mounted in a Kurt, Bridgeport, etc milling vise for use on mills and whatnot. If you want a drill press vise, there are those as well. I suggest you use an X-Y table or rotary X-Y table and mount the vise to that. Makes locating...

I use a Chicago Pneumatic one at work, and have no complaints. Be aware that they are LOUD! Wear earmuffs or ear plugs when using it along with a face shield or goggles.

That is cakewalk with the right tools. Easy way: Weld a nut to the stud. Heat flange around stud dull cherry red with oxy-acetylene torch. Zip stud off while it's still hot with an impact wrench. Cool it down and chase threads with a tap. Done. Anything that doesn't involve heat is...

Looks like you're looking at getting the little port a torch set. I bought the $300 one with plastic carry case years ago from Home Depot. Harris brand stuff. I have no complaints. Works very well for what it is. The tiny pony bottles go empty FAST if you are doing any serious burning work, but...

Those are often marketed as being for automatic transmission snap-rings. I have a pair. I have used them to wedge open new swaybar body bushings more than for their intended purpose!

Oil your tools down with CRC 3-36 or WD-40 or similar light oil. Only way to really keep steel from rusting is to coat it in oil. Might make a mess of your toolbox drawer liners though.

I had to make a few. As far as I know they do not sell those. Obsolete. You need flexible steel that's the right thickness. 1/8" would probably work. Drill a hole and install with a rivet. Very simple thing to fabricate out of sheet steel. Can be done with a hacksaw, file, and a hand drill.

The Snappy stuff is indeed softer. It does take a while to wear them out though. I used mine for a good two years as a pro mechanic before changing careers, and they didn't wear out. Snappy will warranty them out no problem in my experience. I don't mind how soft they are, as impact sockets are...