Recent content by mx185sw

I own a phoenix 2950A with the helper arm and a phoenix 1530 Tire balancer. I have no complaints about the tire machine... the balancer. Needs to be calibrated before you use it.. but once set up.. it is fine. I would stay away from zinc wheel weights. they are not accurate when it comes to...

Agreed.. Go wide.. it will help not only drive thru.. but will help when you need to open doors to get in or out.. or reach in to pop hood/turn keys/read door tag etc etc .

Picked up a used working Ammco 4000 Brake Lathe with cabinet and a lot of adapters for 200 bucks. .. starting to clean it up. :thumbup: [/URL][/IMG]

I dump my waste oil into 55 gallon drums.. originally was going to get a waste oil heater, but haven't gotten around to it. I was doing the 5 gallon run and dump to the local auto parts store, and at times they might let me dump 10 gallons. very inconvenient. I found that the recycling yard...

from a numbers perspective.. I own a 2005 F250 CC Short bed with 6.0 Diesel. Total actual weight of the truck is 8450. Truck is registered as 10K Lbs. Sticker on door shows Front GAWR =5200Lbs Rear GAWR =6100Lbs. Lift I own is a 10K certified lift.. . Lift specs are based on 2500 per arm...

the old adage , the individual parts make up the whole. Where you can focus on Weight limits and certifications, as it relates to your budget.. you might be better served looking at the individual lifts components. 2 diff certified lifts, could be drastically different in how they achieve and...

I also went with Mohawk (System 1).. Installed new for 7K.. Expensive, but well worth every bit of the $$. My buddy who has a bendpak.. always comments when he is over about how overbuilt the Mohawk is and how his guide blocks wear from use. I use it for my F250 Diesel.. and at full height...

Should note.. that with out the mods to the rafters.. I was able to get a car at full rise with the 11ft ceiling.. Only my truck needed the additional space about 11ft.

that would really depend on the lift you choose to install. Some (most) recommend having 6 in pour.. and 3K to 4K PSI.. Also you don't want to have a seam within a certain amount of distance from the edge of the mount plate. All your lift manufacturers have the specs for their lifts mapped out...

I don't own a repair Shop.. but I have a couple of Diesel Trucks I work on (mine and Friends)... I have 2 55 Gallon Drums, Each sitting in a Square Washing Machine Drain Pan.. I put a layer of speedy Dry inside the pan and rest the drums on the Speedy Dry.. this catches any spills as I am...

I also see a crack in the concrete.. how far from the lift is that? 8 inches? with an 8inch pour.. it might not be an issue but would be concerned till its checked. Agree with the others.. you need to place some shims under the lift.

If you place it right at the front... Then it could prevent you from getting other equipment in and out of the garage, if you only have 1 door. Also if you want to do work on the car or truck that would not require a lift... (Wax, work on interior etc)...Then having the lift towards the back of...

I will have to measure the width between the columns on mine; i think i opted for the wide install... as for movement\rock of the columns, mine don’t move at all. For the first month or two, it is recommended you re-torque the mount bolts at the base. Then once a year recheck them. Mine didn’t...

I line cars and trucks up based on drivers shoulder being even with the lift column .. Sorry don’t have a pic of a mustang as example. i always put a stand\support at the back of the truck just to be safe, but i don’t trust any stand if the truck or car is not positioned on the lift correctly...

I built a couple folds down work tables.. basic 2x4 with some heavy door hinges that are working out great for me.. think they only cost about 30 bucks to build both. here is the link to a few pics if it helps with some ideas. [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] Good...