Recent content by SaltH2OHokie

If you really want to get into the weeds, but also cover yourself on flat/level, specify FF and FL numbers in your contract. Will inherently pay more as only commercial guys are likely to know what that means, and are much more likely to be able to do it (or tell you they can't). Good solid...

My comments were geared to my experience at two small, primarily GA airports. One enforced the non-aviation thing, but the wait-list was absolutely who you knew, not when you signed up. The other didn't enforce the non-aviation thing, so the net effect was some really nice planes were sitting...

Y'all had me sold on the Lutron/Pico solution. But, I need more power than they're rated to switch? 5A or 6A max current are my only two options. My lighting setup exceeds that, even divided in half (8 fixtures, 4 54W lamps per fixture...switched half and half would still be 7.2A, Correct?)

Exposed installation, so need protection. No internet, so no fancy wireless switching unless there's a way to do it with no internet?

Two sets of switches I can handle. My non-elechicken brain can't wrap around how to do ver 2.0, wiring wise for the 4 way portion of this exercise. It's less pipe, for sure... And I'm pretty sure it's doable... But, how? Or do we need option C that I'm just not seeing?

Plan view:

Panel is on 30' wall. Ignore extra 4 square box. There was an attempt to come straight out of panel to avoid two extra bends. Couldn't come up with a good way to support it, so extra bends it is! 12' door is on 40' wall. One switch box is on left jamb of that door. Walk doors are on other two...

My last garage I did half the fixtures on one switch, half on other, and found myself using half sometimes, all other times. But no. Not a deal breaker. Just figure if the lights are capable of inner and outer bulbs switched separately, why not? Otherwise I was pondering half lights on one...

As a certified amateur conduit ruiner, I'd like a check on my plan to pipe my lights and switches. A sketch would probably help but in the meanwhile, trying to pipe the below arrangement in EMT in a 30*40 red iron building: -8 lights; two rows of 4. -3 switch locations, one on each wall except...

Whether I put in a mini split OR a conventional ducted split system, either one will be procured as cheaply as possible. (So either gently used Craigslist, new chinese stuff or a supply house floor model/returned unit.) My point being, I'm as likely to end up with "cheap ****" in either...

And to be clear: not a big deal to connect a neutral pigtail. Just first panel I've roughed in that had this plug on neutral, and seems silly I can't actually use it.

It's a QO.

Very nice find. If their expected release date holds (from your link: "Possibly they will be available in April 2021"), I might just luck out. At the rate I'm ruining conduit, it'll be a few weeks before I'm ready for inspection.

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid nuisance tripping with arc fault breakers for sure. I built a house just prior to requiring them (our locality hadn't adopted code version that required arc fault) but other localities had adopted and there were lots of horror stories. How many were faulty installs...

I don't want combo arc fault/ground fault, and I've got a plug-on neutral load center, so why not use it if I can? But I can't find the breaker in question. Anyone know if it is or isn't made? And yes, hooking up that pigtail IS that big a deal :D