Recent content by SteveH - CO

Guess your using a bypass type humidifier and it only has a 120vac water valve? Yes - I removed the humidifier cover and it's 110v only. Thanks for your ideas - those are a valid way to address this. Steve

I have read many of the posts here on humidifier wiring and found none that directly address this. I just installed a new Blueridge furnace and it has a 110v, 1A 'HUM' spade lug on the control board and a neutral lug. These are intended to power a humidifier (and are only powered when the...

I have disassembled and painted my '78 FJ40 twice in 35 years. I would take it apart (to the extent necessary), since FJ40s are pretty modular. Details here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/36-year-old-build-and-paint-thread.1361604/#post-15943875

Vessel metric nutdriver set: https://www.amazon.com/VESSEL-WOOD-COMPO-Non-Slip-Driver-No-3808EVA/dp/B08WH8MTLN?tag=atomicindus08-20

Revisiting this. My buddy and I got the old fasteners out with a Vise Grip on the bolt shoulder. This shallow-head bolt is marked '8.8, F-C M8'. See how shallow the spline area is, compared the hub bearing bolts (which engage easily with a 13mm, 12 point socket). We will be replacing this...

but my TJ has 12 point bolts on the wheel bearings. This has 12 pt. wheel bearing bolts, as well, but they are 13mm (far larger), and have a much deeper spline engagement - a 12 point socket fits easily and securely. These tiny brake bolts are very shallow, so there's very little engagement...

I tried every 12 point SAE and metric I own, and they have very little grip and spun easily. I own (of course) 12 point spline SAE, but not metric. I will buy the metric set and see if that's it. Thanks all!

1990 Jeep Cherokee. Front disk brake caliper bolts. I can find zero info on the internet. About 7-8mm, shallow 12 point. No known socket I have will even begin to work. I plan to replaced with the readily-available common fasteners after I get this miserable thing off. Not my truck - helping a...

I had a 7.8 horse Craftsman (Generac) generator engine with a tapered output shaft that engaged with the input shaft/sleeve on the generator. I sawed the stub of shaft off the generator with a slicing disk, and had it machined to a 1" OD, and installed it on the engine with sleeve retainer...

You can still purchase Methylene Chloride, just not as paint stripped. You'd need to put this into a solution to inhibit evaporation and keep it against the painted surface. https://www.amazon.com/Dichloromethane-Gallon-Solvent-Stellar-Chemical/dp/B0D8NHJ7WC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The last photo shows rust from behind the panel. That entire wheelwell area (inside) needs to be saturated with oil/grease, but only after you fix the rust that is showing (as much as practical). Ford put foam inside the 'sandwich' area on rear fenders (at least on my '01), which makes this...

And here I cut the bottom out of a milk can and dropped it over the wellhead. Oh, well!

I would perhaps put a tiny bit of silicone grease on the o-ring (just to help is seat smoothly in the recess and against the block) and I would use anti-seize on the bolts going into the block. As the owner of much older cars, you can almost always count on any bolts related to the thermostat...

I have reglued inner and outer hood stampings with PL urethane construction adhesive. It likely doesn't meet a FMVS standards, but it sure works. Clamp or apply weight while it cures.

Given the number of comments on Griot's site about the inadequate quantity of clear spray, I would contact them - maybe they'll send you a can. I would think Griots would have good product support.