Recent content by stickshift

My hat is off to you. Old houses have lots of rabbit holes to go down and potentially turn a small fix into a much larger project, and I'm not inclined to go down those rabbit holes unless I need to, or it's otherwise a good time to do so (e.g., remodel of the area).

An alternative technique based on same idea that is often employed by hydronyc on youtube, is cutting slot into threads using recip saw. Once that slot is knocked out, the male threads can be turned because they become smaller diameter as they turn.

Agreed. But replacing the galvanized steel pipe is not a project I want to get into right now because it won't just be that pipe that is rusty, but the drain line in the slab it is connected to, and I think there is a good chance the connection to the drain line in slab is rust welded to the...

Need to replace the stem and I bought a universal stem repair kit, but the original stem threads are 0.608" diameter while the universal stem threads are 0.613" in diameter. Won't even go in 1 full turn, so I guess I have to find the exact match. Anyone recognize this particular stem? No name on...

Oh, I think I get it now. You're saying cut off threads, then install a ****** into whatever this old ****** used to be threaded into, which was an old brass p-trap, then Fernco the two male *******. If that's what you mean, then even easier is @JABgj suggestion - just use Fernco to connect the...

Can you elaborate on the bolded part? I don't understand at all. If you're saying radially cut the ******'s threads that extend into the female coupling, by cutting from inside the pipe, and do that in two places, and then remove the ******, that I understand and have seen plumbers do that to...

Yeah, I think better to go the low risk route and get this done rather than risk turning this into a larger project. Looks like this is what I need to go from the 1-1/2" ****** to the 1-1/4" pvc horizontal arm coming from the p-trap...

Removed cabinet, and barely got a pipe wrench onto female fitting. Pipe wrench on ****** and it's not moving. Could try with a lot more force, but risk of wrench on female fitting slipping off and pipe inside wall moving and cracking somewhere.

Badly clogged bathroom sink, I removed the old brass P-trap, and here's the ****** after I cleaned off the thread seal tape - leading edge is badly deteriorated. Not confident I can hold the female fitting securely while I loosen the ******. I guess I can remove the cabinet, which will give me a...

No beam. I didn't even know about split beam torque wrenches until your post. That Icon looks nice, and I love the flex head - definitely been times where I had to skip the torque wrench because no access with a fixed head.

Check out some videos on Youtube on using a bib kit. No need for disassembly.

I'll have to look into this Hyperheat unit. Seems like you solved a similar problem/layout. I like the idea of individual minisplits for the bedrooms so everyone can tailor the temp to their liking. And the LR/DR/kitchen could be served by one large unit, and this is also the side of the house...

Are the failures with ductless mostly with the head units? If so, I imagine head units can be purchased separately? I guess the hassle is pulling a vacuum and recharging refrigerant? I've seen videos of HVAC techs using "bib kits' to deep clean head units.

I love the EZ Lock discs. But beware that there are fakes on ebay. Bought a pack of 5 and every one of them tore out the center metal hub very early in life of disc. Meanwhile with genuine Dremel EZ Locks, I can reliably wear the entire disc down to a nub. Dremels and similar tools are very...

My old central AC is 40yrs old and dying (leak somewhere, maybe the coils, so it's a little low on R22). Trying to decide - replace with inverter style central air unit or go with multiple minisplits. I've heard from HVAC techs that new central air units can be expected to last 10-15yrs, and...