Recent content by supratreo

ive had one for 18 years, it just failed 2 years a go. i just cut the wires and probably wont replace it. worked flawlessly up until then.

well thank you for that bit of information. this will be inspected so i guess I'm using ties.

thank you for the reply. originally i wanted to use a sono tube but i think it might be a little difficult to dig that unless i use an auger. also, i don't think i'll meet the 3" clear cover requirement. figured id just dig and use plywood. the dirt has no clay. I actually did want to weld it...

Not sure if this is the correct forums but its the closest i could find. below is a drawing for rebar and concrete work i need to do. i just wanted to see if someone could confirm I'm reading it right. holes is 18x43 rebar is #4 with the 4 top sections spaced 4" apart and the lower 2 at 12"...

i always preferred ground up because of what you mentioned in the second part about metal falling on it. recently while wiring my shop, including sub panel and outlet, i had my uncle, who used to be an electrician, come inspect my work before i called the city. at the end he pointed out that my...

i mostly do automotive and some "around the house" stuff like fixing appliances, A/C... i love my 117. does everything i need it to. doesn't do temp which would be nice but i don't run into that issue often. i have a restaurant so i always have temp probes available if i need one.

Thank you. sounds like the 6/3 might be too much for the welder but i'll run it to the other sub just so i have it available there. i did want a small lathe and mill there at some point too.

good point. i have a hobart 210mvp and it uses 24A. not sure why i thought i needed so much amperage. i like the sub panel idea, i'll look into that.

Thank you for that info. yes i did run6/3 NM-B. this is for a WH application only? if so, i can find one that suits the code requirements.

of course. seeing as how the welder only needs 3 conductors, i'm assuming its fine to run 6/2? are there other ways to make the connection besides split bolt and Polaris taps?

Yes, i'm looking at tankless/on-demand/under sink.. something like this: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Eemax-HA011240-HA011240-HomeAdvantage-II-Electric-Tankless-Water-Dual-Heater-11kW

So I'm slowly wrapping up wiring my shop and and was planning a small under sink electric WH. i ran the 6/3 for that as i had it on hand and would get the job done. while thinking about how i would need to connect this romex to the WH i realized that i may be able to reroute it to the space...

i had this same exact questions when i was building my home shop that's 34x37. i went with wood in the end but if i had the space and was building something that size i would absolutely go steel. as far as insulation, look into the roll insulation that other have mentioned. I've worked in...

quick update. i got 6 of the 150W Onlylux lights. i installed 4 and its pretty damn nice. i think I'll be perfect with all 6 and no dimmer. i'll give that a shot this weekend and report back.

I'm doing a 3 way switch, if i don't use the 0-10v dimmer, i assume they can still be used with a regular dimmer since the lights are dimmable?