Recent content by TheVodkaMan

Hey neighbor! What a small world! :) It's just amazing the amount of money they want for these "starter" homes and then you have to spend more money fixing their mistakes that could be avoided from the get-go. The front of our house is facing north - if you look at the diagram in my first...

Understood. It does run non-stop, except the indoor temps rise from 73 to 77 anyway making the system run all day pointlessly hoping to actually reach 73 yet it only does so at around 11:30 pm... I'd be happy to keep it at 73 all day/night if the system could actually do that... the 73F luxury...

Not possible. The 6 years I live in this house, I NEVER experienced what it would be like to have 72 during the day in the summer heat. Edit: I misunderstood. You asked to see my graph whilst having my thermostat set at 72 at all times. I will do that just for you tomorrow and Sunday just so...

yeah it works "well" using the scenario I programmed into my thermostat because the system is physically incapable of keeping up with 73 after 8 AM... Look at the green line on my graphs (outdoor temp) anything after 8 AM is when the system starts fighting heat resulting in running non-stop...

Here's a typical day in my house from this week: and here's last year: The system is running longer this year vs last year (don't have July report at the moment):

I have a friend that chose greyish shingles and it made a difference according to him but then again he also opted for a ridge vent while he was at it. Grey shingles cost more than the identical black shingles too. Either way, my roof/shingles is 13 years old. I think "builder grade" shingles'...

I think it would be less complicated to just ditch the whole system and ducts and run a mini split system in every room.

Thanks everyone. Reading all these comments just proves me that I might have a combination of things that contribute to the issue - 1) black shingles 2) not enough attic ventilation 3) not enough insulation throughout 4) weak duct work 5) weak unit. That's just too much to do and invest in a...

This is just a lessons learned for me. I will never buy another starter home because to make it right would require rebuilding/replacing half of the things in it. I'd say my attic is probably around 130 degrees. That radiant heat from black shingles isn't a joke, I even replace the filter...

I'll take a picture and show what I have.

The returns in my house are all ceiling-mounted, like 13" or 14"x14" squares or something. I'm just concerned that one of the smaller rooms has a return but not the other. Once I realized that my system can't keep up with the heat, the best I "got it to work" is to set it to 77 during the day...

Howdy, everyone! It's been a few years since my last visit here, and I hope all is well with you all. I know this is a garage-related forum, but I've seen folks post questions unrelated to garages (especially in the AC section), so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I've...

After reading your replies I went up there to take a look once again and saw a 2x4 that's used to support the water heater's outlet, so I wonder if it's OK for me to run the wire from the other side of the same 2x4 and eventually make its way to the outlet. It will difficult for me to get behind...

That's a hell of a reply my man, I had to read it a couple of time HAHA Yes, I am adding a 2-gang box below the panel on a separate 20 amp circuit. So the mushroom fixture is indeed on a 15-amp circuit using 14/2, which I think is gonna be enough to power my LED bars. The idea is to remove the...

10-4 on the outlet below the panel but why go through all the trouble and wire LED bars to a separate circuit when I could just use the existing circuit the mushroom fixture is connected to already? All I have to do is to remove the mushroom and mount the main 2 pairs of 4' bars in its place...