Recent content by tmcelheny

I had a heat loss done. They calculated 42k BTU unit was required. The unit is a 50k BTU. I have spoken with an engineer this morning and realize I will need to relocate the pump to be ahead of the expansion tank so its on the suction side. So the plan will be to put the pump up near where the...

Im heating my building with a propane fired commercial hot water tank and Im in the middle of plumbing. My pump is on the return side and I was planning on putting the tank where the piping leaves off in the pic..But Im reading its supposed to go on the suction side of the pump.. Anyone have any...

Around here (mid state pa) code requires poles to be sunk 48" minimum.. My poles Are 8' on center and my trusses are 4' apart.. My width (span is 30'). My trusses had to be designed to withstand a 40psf snow load and my truss spacing and design were approved by a proffesional engineer. My girts...

Wow.. I couldn't if said it better myself I did all of the things you mentioned ... 1/2" rboard between steel and girts, 6.5-7" thick slab with raidiant heat system beneath in my 30x40x12 pole building... With the building, floor, electric, some lighting, water, and a small sidewalk, I'm at...

Why the heck wouldn't they want you to sink the poles?? Must be soil types in your area. I just built a pole building and per code they had to be sunk 48" minimum below grade and they are setting on 8" thick concrete pads... My dad has two pole buildings that have been built this way and are...

If it was a guarantee that the floor was done correctly.... And there is a footing and frost wall that extends into the earth then yes, they could be cut drilled dowled and re poured... If its just a slab on grade with no footer/grade beams or frost wall then the floor would have to be cut...

Im fairly certain it will work fine

yea that picture looks like your setting poles on the same concrete structure as the floor?! here is a pic of my around the pole situation .. the poles are sunk 48" down in the earth setting on a concrete footing and the floor is just at grade poured against em,, with an expansion joint around...

Being the wire mesh was set atop foam, the foam tended to slouch down while the wire stayed firm and straight. It was only very minor hooking as we were worried about the tubing getting too high. Its probly in it an inch or better in most areas... It had great slate sub bedding, plenty of...

When I had the building put up I had 1/2" Rboard insulation installed between the metal and the girts.It has like a fiberglass coating on both sides. It adds a ton of sound proofing (metal bangs around when it heats and cools) and some R-value incase I decide to run a little heat before its time...

I just have to decide how much money i want to spend between now and the time i buy my outdoor furnace (coal/wood burner)

Thanks!

Thanks for the info! Im not sure wether electric or propane yet but i know i aint payin 345 a month!! Wow..lol As for the question about the drains.. They are 5" wide by 3' sections. ?3 in each bay) They were laid atop the stone bedding and they have rebar slots to hold them in place during the...

I may go with one of those "flash heaters" for about 1100 bucks that mount on the wall and run on propane. But I am pretty sure I will be installing an outdoor furnace in the next few years... I have thought about trying a residential hot water heater but I've heard they won't recover fast...

more pics