Recent content by tsperry88

I have a 725 sq ft workshop that I would like to coat in a tan color, preferably in a satin sheen, with no flakes. I have 2 windows that get a lot of sun, so UV is a concern. The slab is a few years old. I'll be grinding it. One 4'x4' I'll be grinding fairly heavily as the slab tops about 1/4"...

Thank you. The 21" panels come in one box with the weather seal, but its not attached. It can attach to any panel, but presumably its intended to go on one of the 21" ones. The reinforcing strut comes lose in the crate and can be attached to any panel, so anything can go on the top. 21 top...

My 8' tall Wayne Dalton door has (3) 18" panels and (2) 21" panels. I might call the mfg next week to verify before I install, but can anyone tell me if the order matters or which would look best? The instructions don't mention it. My first thought was a larger panel at the top and bottom.

I built my home in 2018 and was only required to fire foam the penetrations in the top and bottom plates between floors. There appears to be a lot a leeway in interpretations and according to an out of state builder friend, our inspectors are lenient.

It has no neutral, so only needs 8/2. I linked the correct wire for his outlet.

That outlet has no neutral. Use 8/2. What you have is likely not allowed to be buried in the wall, if that's ever part of the plan. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Romex-SIMpull-50-ft-8-2-Non-Metallic-Wire-By-the-Roll/50083486 https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/8-2-w-g-nm-b-wire-black

Just doing a quick scan of this thread, I agree with those that said paralleling power, in close proximity, over a long distance could cause issues. Shielding would help, if one end is properly grounded.

I don't think it should be a question of interlocks. That part seems simple and I agree with you. My brother is a master and friend a journeyman, so I always just do what they say. I really don't understand single path to ground, ground loop, only bonding at the first point of disconnect ect. I...

Per NEC fiber cannot share the same conduit with limited exceptions that don't apply here. In either case they can share the same trench. I would set power at 24", partially backfill, and put 3/4" conduit 6" below grade for coms. Still a wet environment, that's why I recommended gell filled...

I deal with fiber everyday, and there is no point of it for the OP. He could literally run a single gel filled 5e non shielded cable and a 5 port Netgear dumb hub. There would be no real world noticeable difference in a home environment. Fiber is no more proper than copper, he just needs to keep...

Can you do away with a meter? My brother is a commercial electrician and just built a new house. He chose to put the meter on his shop and feed both buildings from there. The inspector commented that it looked like a commercial installation, but passed it. That wont help you with generator back...

I think TechBrite makes the only 3 bulb LED ready light, so the price point is about the same buying it ready to go vs bulbs separate. I bought a 2 bulb housing from TechBrite and didnt find the quality better than cheaper options. The 2 bulb housing was made in the US, which I assume is why it...

Is that different than an LED ready strip light and just buying whatever bulbs you want?

In either case I'm sure there is good and junk. Growing up dad had almost every ballast fail in time, got frustrated and put up a bunch keyless fixtures with the coiled fluorescent bulbs. They actually worked quite well. As I mentioned we had tons of ballasts fail at work, flickering bulbs, ect...

I don't expect anything electronic to be lifetime. I built my house and shop and used traditional type sockets. I have no external drivers. Mostly I have recess cans and LED BR40 bulbs. I haven't had any burn out in 5 years. The shop is new, so no history on longevity of the LED fluorescent...