Recent content by tx_mike

dry flush or incinerator toilet?? https://www.amazon.com/Laveo-by-Dry-Flush-Portable-Toilet/dp/B0BBHHLV7Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I built a 10x12 with 24in OC spacing. the siding is plywood sturdy panel. The siding really stiffens it all up. It has settled a bit, but i just set the floor frame on 4inx12in concrete blocks on the ground. its held up well for 9yrs now and even flooded about 6in inside twice.

mine is 20wx45dx16tall with 12ft lean to on each side. Its the best we could afford to do what we needed. small project work area, small car(1970 Triumph) storage, RV storage under the lean to. I would love an extra 5ft width for now its good enough. my uncle has a 25x60 and its a nice size...

would put some type of permeable fabric on the back side of the wall to keep soil or gravel from washing through it. the top soil will eventually get washed through any holes with rain water. . My wall building guy here in TX (has built almost 200ft for me) said the geogrid tie back was used...

I picked up 2 of these for both sides of my main 12x14 rolll up. Kind of nautical looking. And on clearance. They will go about 8ft up.

My building has 3 posts on the lean to/RV area. I am sure you could have them do 4 to not have the post in the center of the building. I can push my camper all the way to the back. (or front) and have room for my slide out. But i want it in the middle for a bit more protection. we also just...

We are just wrapping up our shop/rv storage. (Have to finish the electical). I started my design with 30x45 and keeping our camper enclosed. Ended up (budget limited) to 20x45 enclosed for shop and 12x45 lean too for our camper. We also put 12x45 porch along the opposite side. Our trailer...

Not a metal lathe, but my grandfather and some friends built a wood lathe from parts in the shop. 2 pieces of C channel for the base, risers from this to the chuck and end piece are used engine connecting rods, belt drive from remote electric motor. Think it was built in the 60s. We put a...

Was thinking I would run the 50amp In them to across the shop, rather than going up and over the 14ft door.

I am pouring my slab this week for my shop and concidering putting a couple runs of the Carlon (or similar) conduit in the slab. From my box to the different areas of the shop. Was curious about opinions on this vs just running mc cable after its all built. I can't imagine there is a cost...

I dont plan to spray foam so it would be exposed like the picture. This guys builds in College Station area. If I was in a coastal area it would be a no brainer.. I am guessing there is no delay between frame up and tin for me to paint. especially 16ft tall at the eave...

We have finally gotten to a point where we can get our shop/RV storage built. The contractor we are thinking about builds full weld up buildings. One of my concerns is, he doesnt normally paint/prime the beams or the weld areas. He can do it, for a price. ($600-$800). The purlines/gurts...

nice looking building. I am working on pricing one out for a shop now in Fort bend county. Can i ask who you purchased yours through and put it up?

very nice space and view out the back it looks like. on your walls, is that 14ft studs on a 2ft block wall?

where in Houston area are you? where you happy with your contractor? I live in Richmond and looking to do a 30x40 but cant decide between something like yours or a pole style building.