Recent content by wyliesdiesels

take pics of the panel and post them here dragging extension cords around is not only a pain, but it is against code to run them thru doors and windows and they create trip hazards. PIB and an interlock along with color coding of breakers would be the best route for multi-day outages what is...

sprinkler timer, doorbell or BA/IA power supply

ok so what does this machine do or what is it for?

the breaker style is "cable-in cable-out" that whole can needs to be redone. new breakers, new terminals bar, new neutral bar replace the NM-b and put duct seal on the conduits after you replace the lock rings the sewer gases are corroding everything

shop. 3Ø 208Y/120 panel

Ive got red tape on the floor in front of my panel because my techs kept stacking ladders in front of the panel

that is for 3Ø not 1Ø

for a 4-wire 120/240v plug yes. but you dont need that for a 240v motor. 6-50p would be the correct one

the issue comes from unplugging them while running. say you have an emergency and need to shut the motor off right away and dont have time to run to the breaker panel. pulling that plug can expose you to a nasty arc flash.... also the 10-50p is non-grounded 120/240v rated so of course its the...

as said above, the issue is the plug and recept ratings..... if you can find a plug and recept rated for the HP of the motor, then you are good to go.... they do exist up to certain ratings, but they are expensive... cheaper to hardwire especially for equipment you dont need to move on a regular...

aww well that makes sense

wow what a mess definitely tell sparky to stop and wait til the plans are figured out

that in-rush rating is awfully low my 3-ton AC condenser pulls almost 100a on startup and its not even 5hp

30a breaker will probably hold but could also nuissance rip since it will be hardwired, breaker can be max 2.5x of FLC, 70a for 5HP

I have serious doubts about that. most handymen would do a better job than that. I hope you didnt pay much for that mess.